Kiyosumi-Shirakawa: The Underrated Coffee Town Of Tokyo

Perfect to get your caffeine fix, some work done or read a book: explore some of Tokyo’s hidden coffee shops.

A little way out from central Tokyo, off the Hanzōmon Line, you can find yourself in a place known as Kiyosumi-Shirakawa. Over the years, the neighborhood has developed a name for itself as the “Coffee Town” of Tokyo. The name has only become more of a reality as more shops open up.

While many people recognize Shimokitazawa in Setagaya-ku as the trendiest, hipster place in Tokyo, Kiyosumi-Shirakawa is rising in popularity with some of the best coffee you can find. The area is visited by a heterogeneous crowd, from families out on a bike ride together to young couples out for a casual lunch. You’ll find a variety of people living here as it’s one of the more affordable places to live within Tokyo.

If you’re a big coffee drinker or cafe enthusiast, then this is your area of Tokyo.

Cafe Culture in Japan

© Photo by iStock: Yagi-Studio

As you explore Kiyosumi-Shirakawa, you’ll quickly notice just how deeply rooted cafe culture has become in Japan. Over the past decade, coffee has transformed from a simple drink into a whole experience. It revolves around atmosphere, design and slow moments. Many people head to cafes not necessarily for the taste of coffee itself but to enjoy a calm, cozy space where they can read, reflect or even get some work done.

That said, Japan’s love of cafes isn’t entirely new. Long before the rise of modern espresso bars and trendy micro-roasters, there were 喫茶店 (kissaten)—traditional Japanese-style coffee shops dating back to the Showa era. These retro spots often feature dim lighting, leather booths and handwritten menus. They serve nostalgic classics like siphon coffee and pudding with a cherry on top.

The Western Influence

Many of the newer cafes in Kiyosumi-Shirakawa are clearly influenced by Western culture. These spots often strive to recreate the relaxed atmosphere that European cafes are famous for. Think sleek, minimalist interiors, expertly crafted coffee and gentle background music that helps clear your mind.

It’s common to see people working on laptops in cafes, as shared workspaces and remote work have become more widespread. Similar to Parisian teahouses, many newer cafes also serve pastries like cakes and macarons. You might also notice more English on menus and signage. These points reflect the international vibe and the fact that cafes are still somewhat of a non-traditional space in Japan.

While modern cafes in Japan—usually just known as カフェ (kafe)—are inspired by Western styles, the traditional kissaten remain distinct. Although the distinction between the two is blurring, you’d never call a trendy modern cafe a kissaten. The term is reserved for those nostalgic Showa-era spots that come with a very different kind of charm.

My Go-To Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Coffee Spots

In Kiyosumi-Shirakawa, dozens of stylish cafes and independent roasters have opened in recent years, many just steps from one another. It’s a great place to have a cafe crawl, with some offering a kissaten-like nostalgia and others a more modern feel. If you’re not a coffee expert, no worries—just ask for the house blend to get a taste of what each cafe is all about.

Western Style: Blue Bottle Coffee Company

Blue Bottle Coffee Company is a well-known coffee shop and roastery in the U.S. With the first Japanese branch located here in Kiyosumi-Shirakawa, it’s no surprise that it’s popular with locals and foreigners alike. The shop has a warehouse feel, with high ceilings and an industrial interior from the metal accents. Although the inside is quite wide, it gets extremely packed on weekends around lunchtime.

After visiting on a Saturday afternoon, I soon realized I wouldn’t be getting a seat anytime soon, as the line wrapped around the building. It just goes to show how trendy this small part of Tokyo and cafes are becoming. Despite not being able to enter at that time, I did indeed stop by again to grab a morning coffee. The waffle and latte art were made for a photo op, and this is the perfect place to snap a picture for the ‘Gram.

For those who want to recreate the same taste at home, this particular branch is a roastery in addition to a cafe. You can buy coffee beans and take them back with you. They even offer instant coffee packages for those without the fancy equipment.

Modern Kissaten Style: Fukadaso Cafe

© Photo by Fukadaso Cafe

When looking for a kissaten, you want to be able to enjoy that unmistakable Showa-era charm. Fukadaso Cafe is housed in a renovated 50-year-old apartment building that was once on the verge of demolition. Rather than erasing its history, the owner lovingly preserved its retro character with minimal interference.

The idea was to revive the space while continuing the warm, everyday habits of neighborly connection that used to be the norm. Today, it’s become a casual gathering spot for locals. It’s a place where you can drop by for a breather and find familiar faces. Inside, you’ll find vintage furniture, art-filled walls and a relaxed, airy layout.

© Photo by Fukadaso Cafe

Their blend coffee, made with beans from the nearby Arise Coffee Roasters, is sweet, balanced and neither too dark nor acidic. It perfectly complements their house-made cheesecake or the cherry-topped firm pudding—a classic kissaten dessert that often sells out on weekends.

Arise Coffee Roasters

While it’s a much smaller shop, only equipped with stools, you can also stop by Arise Coffee Roasters to get some black coffee and pick from their selection of different beans. It has a vastly different vibe from your typical cafe atmosphere and more of a grunge look.

Cafes To Eat At

Many cafes in Kiyosumi-Shirakawa are becoming increasingly food-focused, offering carefully crafted menus that go beyond just coffee. This focus on food complements the coffee experience, making the area a destination not just for caffeine lovers but also for foodies.

Cafe Ginger Tokyo

This cafe is tucked away in the older parts of Kiyosumi-Shirakawa. Located on the second floor of a narrow building is a shop called Cafe Ginger Tokyo. You can hear vintage music playing the moment you step in.

By the entrance, there is a large shelf with records lined up from top to bottom. The shop seemed to be divided into two parts: one side filled with books, which evokes a cafe, and the other by the kitchen, which sets up the bar vibe. Despite this, the general atmosphere is very peaceful, and you won’t have to worry about any bothersome customers.

They have a wide variety of drinks and meals on the menu and offer lunch and dinner specials. While a typical cafe may have sandwiches and salads, I was surprised to see that this cafe was offering curry. With Indian style curry, their featured item on the menu was a “Butter Chicken Curry”.

Along with coffee, they had other soft drinks and a surprisingly wide selection of beer. They also had specialty drinks, such as “Coconut Azuki Milk.” Unfortunately, I decided not to get it this time, but it gives me an excuse to go back!

Dreadnought Books & Cafe

© Photo by Dreadnought Books & Cafe

If you’re looking for a similar atmosphere to sit down and enjoy quiet time, try visiting Dreadnought Books & Cafe. It’s located about a 10-minute walk away from Cafe Ginger Tokyo. The name says it all; it’s the perfect place to plop down with your favorite book and get reading.

The food menu here is very kissaten-inspired, with thick cuts of toast and various nostalgic desserts. Main meal offerings include omurice with demiglace sauce and other rice plates like curry and Hayashi rice. If you’re looking for a more savory snack, they also offer various kinds of toasties with cheese and bacon or corn beef.

Sometimes, it really helps to get away from the familiar setting of your own home. I find myself focusing better on what I’m reading when I’m in a cafe. Here, you can do the same while enjoying a cup of coffee and a kissaten-style feed.

We are always looking for new places to try, and our Kiyosumi-Shirakawa coffee stop selection is only the beginning! Let us know about your recommendations!