Jes Kalled, Author at Savvy Tokyo

10 Gorgeous Autumn Foliage Spots in Tokyo

Jes Kalled — Tue, 28 Oct 2025 23:00:00 +0000

It’s almost time to put on your koyo (autumn foliage) caps and embrace another change in season. But where to go? Kyoto and Hokkaido offer splendid autumn sights, but if you can’t travel that far, there are several unique spots right here in Tokyo. This list guides you to some rather well-known, highly frequented, classic spots—but also to some semi-secret, uncharted locales that you may not have enjoyed the colorful season at before.

1. Rikugien Gardens

Located a short walk (or skip if you’re excited) from Komagome Station, Rikugien Gardens—well known as a top cherry blossom viewing spot, too—don’t skip out on the koyo. In addition to beautiful bridges, colorful trees, and the old Edo vibe, these gardens are renowned for their autumn night light-ups. This year’s illumination is from November 28 to December 9th, beginning at 6 p.m. and finishing at 8:30 p.m. Don’t miss those colors!

When to go: Mid-November through early December
Getting there: A 10-minute walk from Komagome Station (Yamanote and Namboku lines) or Sengoku Station on the Mita line.
Information: Open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. ¥300 entrance fee for adults. (Night light up entry ticket: ¥1,200)

2. Tonogayato Teien Gardens

Worth a trip to Kokubunji? Yes. A thousand times. Type the name of this garden into Google images and you’ll see why. Complete with garden tunnels, secluded pathways, bamboo forests and a lovely koi pond, Tonogayato Garden is only a 20-minute Chuo rapid line ride away from the fast-paced, concrete jungle of Shinjuku. An escape if there ever was one.

When to go: Late November through early December
Getting there: 2-minute walk from Kokubinji Station on the JR Chuo line.
Information: Open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. ¥150 entrance fee for adults.

3. Icho Namiki (Ginkgo Avenue)

If yellow is your color, especially after all the reds you’ll see from maples elsewhere, Icho Namiki, otherwise known as Ginkgo Avenue, is a must-see, must-go-to koyo location. Icho Namiki is not a park or a garden, but a street lined with tall ginkgo trees on either side. Located near both Gaienmae and Aoyama-Itchome Stations, this spot is easy to find and has been crowned one of the top koyo spots in Tokyo and Japan according to a local autumn foliage website for years. The annual Icho Namiki festival is also a must-see—it runs from the end of November through early December. If you work in central Tokyo, most probably you’ll just happen to catch sight of it during your autumn morning commute. Breathe in that yellow!

When to go: Mid-November through early December
Getting there: 2 Kitaaoyama, Minato-ku. A few minutes walk from Aoyama-itchome and Gaienmae Stations.
Information: Open year-round. No entrance fee.

4. Yoyogi Park

The best place to chill year-round? Yoyogi Park. Bring a group of friends, a French bulldog, some blankets, a six-pack of cider and pop a squat for some momijigari (autumn leaves viewing). Of the places in Tokyo to see foliage, this is a place where you can kick back and take it all in at your own pace. Yoyogi Park, for those of you not in the know, is about a five-minute walk from Harajuku Station. Keep a day or two open this fall for an impromptu koyo sesh.

When to go: Late November through early December
Getting there: A few minutes walk from Harajuku, Yoyogi koen and Yoyogi-hachiman Stations.
Information: Open year-round. No entrance fee.

5. Koishikawa Korakuen

Right next door to Tokyo Dome, this garden is worth visiting any time of the year, but it’s really autumn that brings out the most splendid sights of it. Created in the early Edo Period, the garden has a number of manmade hills, ponds, bridges, paths and viewing points, highlighting the golden yellow leaves of its gingko trees, along with the varied shades of orange and red on the maple trees. A wonderful destination for a romantic autumn walk or a day out with the whole family.

When to go: Mid-November through early December
Getting there: A few minutes walk from Iidabashi Station on the Oedo, JR lines and Tokyo subway or Korakuen Station.
Information: Open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. ¥300 entrance fee for adults.

6. Showa Kinen Park

Tachikawa’s Showa Memorial Park is heaven for family outings at any given time of the year: there’s flower viewing, picnicking, playing sports, barbecuing, water play and so much more. But when autumn kicks in, the park transforms into a breathtaking location for an afternoon walk through the splendid colors of all forms and kinds. Enjoy the autumn by renting a bike and cycling around some of the park’s 14 kilometers of paths, or rent a paddleboat and watch the yellow, red and orange trees from the lake. One of Tokyo’s best-kept secrets, this park will never disappoint, especially in autumn.

When to go: Early November through late November
Getting there: A few minutes walk from Nishi Tachikawa Station on the JR Ome line.
Information: Open from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. ¥450 entrance fee for adults.

7. The University of Tokyo

Created in 1906, the University of Tokyo’s beautiful ginkgo avenue is lined with trees transplanted from the Koishikawa Botanical Garden. Originally, ginkgo trees weren’t commonly used for street landscaping, so they were pretty unique at the time. As it was lengthened over the years, even more ginkgo trees were added, and by the time Yasuda Auditorium was completed at the end of the avenue in 1925, the project was finally realized. A stroll down this avenue in the fall is definitely a must-do!

When to go: Late-November to early-December
Getting there: A 10 to 15-minute walk from Nezu, Hongo-sanchome or Todaimae Stations.
Information: Open year-round. No entrance fee.

8. Otaguro Park

This beautiful Japanese garden, located in Suginami Ward, was developed in 1981 on the former home of music critic Otaguro Motoo. The rows of ginkgo trees and over 100-year-old maples are absolutely stunning when they change colors! Don’t miss the charming Western-style building that Otaguro built as his workroom back in 1933. It’s now a memorial museum, and you can see things like his cherished 1900 Steinway piano. This park is the perfect mix of nature and history.

When to go: Late-November to mid-December
Getting there: A 10-minute walk from Ogikubo Station.
Information: Open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on Wednesdays & the end of the year. No entrance fee.

9. Shinjuku Gyoen

A popular destination for locals and tourists, Shinjuku Gyoen is a breathtaking, vast garden that, in our modest opinion, is most splendid when colored in red. Take a stroll through the park’s endless alleys, have a rest on a bench and enjoy this vivid natural scene that is beyond gorgeous. Though Shinjuku Gyoen has three different gardens—English, French and Japanese—the autumn leaves are particularly stunning in the Japanese garden and Momijiyama (maple mountain) on the park’s eastern side.

When to go: Mid-November to mid-December
Getting there: Shinjuku Gyoen or Shinjuku Station.
Information: Open from 7:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Closed on Mondays & the end of the year. ¥500 entrance fee for adults.

10. Kuhonbutsu Joshin Temple

Feel a sense of calm wash over you as you walk through the Niomon Gate, entering the Kuhonbutsu Joshin Temple. As you explore the temple grounds, you can take your time soaking in the beautiful autumn leaves alongside classic temple scenery. It’s the kind of place where you can just unwind and appreciate nature’s beauty and spirit. Honestly, you can start enjoying the autumn vibes right after you step out of Kuhombutsu Station! It’s a hidden gem you won’t want to miss this fall.

When to go: Late-November to early-December
Getting there: A few minutes walk from Kuhombutsu Station.
Information: Open from 6 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. No entrance fee.

A Few Bonus Autumn Foliage Locations Near Tokyo

Bonus 1: Sankeien Garden (Yokohama)

Think bridges, maples, ponds, historic buildings and a Kyoto vibe. This traditional Japanese garden in Yokohama is beautiful in any season but especially vibrant in autumn. The inside of the houses is open to the public, so you can feel free to take a peek and submerge yourself in the historic site. Accessible by bus from JR Yokohama Station and JR Negishi Station, this location is ideal for those seeking some happy Edo inspiration.

When to go: Mid-November through Mid-December
Getting there: At Yokohama Station, take bus Route No. 8 or 148 at bus platform No. 2. Get off at Sankeien-iriguchi (about a 35-minute ride) and then walk to the garden (5 minutes).
Information: Open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. ¥900 entrance fee for adults.

Bonus 2: Chichibu Tama-Kai National Park (Saitama)

A lot of trees. A lot of autumn leaves. The folks in Saitama are familiar with the spoils of this lovely national park. For those in Tokyo, this is a simple day trip away. Because this park is huge, there is a lot to do—even nearby mountains to hike, such as Mt. Mitsumine and Mount Mitake—both of which have beautiful shrines at their summits. Also in the area is the Nagatoro Valley, a beautiful locale famous for its foliage reflections in the Arakawa River. If boats are your thing, you can even drift downstream in one.

P.S. Beware of cute bears!

When to go: Mid-November through early December
Getting there: A bit of a walk from Chichibu, Okutama or Enzan Stations.
Information: Open year-round. No entrance fee.

Bonus 3: Gora (Hakone)

Hakone claims to have the best autumn colors in Japan, and while we thought the glorious spot belonged to Kyoto, a walk through Gora is enough to persuade you that they’re not joking. Start your autumn journey at Lake Ashinoko, then stop by Sengokuhara, where you can enjoy the colors as you play golf or relax in an onsen, then head to Gora and Kowakudani, the natural hot springs resort.

The ultimate autumn view, however, is at Gora’s Hakone Museum of Art, where the leaves are reflected in every object, pond and bamboo tree in the museum’s vast garden. If that’s not enough, find your way toward the nearby Hakone Gora Park, a spot where you can enjoy the autumn colors while sipping a traditionally brewed cup of hot green tea.

When to go: Mid-November to late November
Getting there: From Hakone Yumoto Station, take the Hakone Tozan Railway to Gora Station.

Koyo doesn’t last forever, so be sure to catch it before it “leaves!”

For the best autumn foliage spots in other parts of Japan, see this article, and if you have any other recommendations within Tokyo, let us know via the comments!

This article has been updated with the latest information for 2025.

Stories Of Workplace Sexism in Japan: ‘Only Women Know How To Vacuum’

Jes Kalled — Sun, 06 Apr 2025 23:00:00 +0000

After having experienced my fair share of less-than-cool comments and some rather interesting conversations while working, I decided to reach out to other women working here to hear about their experiences of workplace sexism in Japan. In this article, I share a story of my own and two real-life anecdotes from a Korean friend who has been working here all her life.

“Only Women Know How To Vacuum”

My Japanese boss is wrestling with the many plants in our office. I see him muttering to himself as he goes from plant to plant, tending to some of their dead leaves and varied dehydrated states. I can’t hear what he’s saying because I have headphones on. I’m editing a trailer that’s due at the end of the day when I hear a muffled sound that can’t be from the video. I hear it again, it’s louder the second time.

Having both heard the muffled command, my coworker and I take off our headphones at the same time. Our boss gestures for us to come to his side of the room, so we follow, leaving behind our time sensitive projects. We join him next to a particularly forlorn plant and he explains that customers are coming soon. He says that we need to make the office look clean and presentable. Both of us nod to show that we care and understand. He gives my coworker, John, a strange look that neither of us understood at the time. There’s a small vacuum in our boss’s hands. He lifts it off the floor, points to the carpet, and says in English, “Clean please.” We both nod again. John reaches for the vacuum.

Our boss’s eyes widen. He seems even more confused than usual and leans back, clutching the vacuum to his chest, just out of John’s reach. There are a few awkward moments where the three of us don’t know what to do or say when, finally, our boss lets out a huge laugh. He bends over, clutching his knees for support. John and I exchange perplexed glances. Our boss straightens up and hands me the vacuum while speaking to John.

“Sit, sit, John. Please sit. You can continue editing. You are a man.” He says in Japanese, still laughing.

He points to me and says my name to John, “It’s her job to vacuum, don’t you think?” John looks at me with eyes that say, “Oh my god, I’m so sorry.” Meanwhile, I’m left standing next to that particularly dry plant in a state somewhere between shock and rage.

The boss walks away laughing, shaking his head and repeating John’s name as if he was the funniest jokester on the planet.

Unwilling to inhabit a world where plants were deprived of water and women were dispensable cleaning devices, I left that job. That’s when I resolved to ask other women in Tokyo to see if they, too, had experienced similar transgressions made at work, the first being a close friend, Hana Lee (pseudonym), a 29-year-old Korean woman who grew up in Japan. I made plans to meet with her for coffee and some breakfast and hear about her stories of what it has been like for her to work as a woman in this country, specifically in the field of media. Here are some of her stories, recounted anonymously and retold accordingly in a first-person perspective.

“Only Men Can Have Opinions”

A few years ago, I was working at a trading company in Tokyo, where I had a boss in his 50s with a terrible sense of humor. He would often make degrading jokes about women, but of course, they were just “jokes,” so as employees, we could never really object to them. One day, my boss asked me to meet to talk about our projects. I don’t even remember what I disagreed with him about during the meeting, but it had to do with our projects at that time.

He looked at me and said, “You speak your opinion quite directly. I don’t think you’ll be able to get married.”

“No, I think I will be able to,” I reply. I knew he felt he could say that because I was the youngest woman in the office. It was a reflection of the deeply rooted workplace hierarchy scene in Japan, and I was at the bottom by default.

One of the things I hated most about that job was the uniforms. Only women were required to wear them. It somehow identified us only as “girls” or “women” washing out any chance of our personalities or creativity shining through. We all looked the same. After a while, I quit. And so did a bunch of other women after me.

“Only Women Without Makeup Can Be Assistant Directors”

It was my first video shoot with my new job title at a Japanese TV production company. The producer I worked for, a Japanese man in his 60s, brought me over to meet the director, who was an outside hire, a freelancer. They shook hands like old friends, and I was introduced to them as the new assistant director for the production company. I was young and somewhat inexperienced, but I knew my worth. However, the director had other ideas. He took one look at me and then looked back to my boss.

“Really?” he asked.

My boss nodded and said, “Really.”

“Where did you find her?” The director asked.

“We interviewed her.” My boss replied.

“Yes, I just sent in my CV and applied to work with this production company,” I said, slightly confused at why this wasn’t obvious.

The director looked to my boss again and replied, “Oh, I thought perhaps you just picked her up off the street.”

After the producer left, the director approached me again, asking, “Seriously though, how did you get this job?” I told him I sent in a CV, and went to an interview.

“Really?” He asked again.

I could tell that he didn’t take me seriously at all. I also think he was implying that I had gotten the job by means other than an innocent CV. Plus, it seems that the female assistant directors in the industry don’t usually wear makeup and dress like I do. My style stood out, which apparently made me a target for doubt and criticism. If I were a man, my position wouldn’t be in question. And here I was, simply wearing clothes and makeup of my choosing, my appearance harnessing enough power to cast shadows of disbelief about my abilities on the first day. I wanted to tell him: I don’t dress up to attract men, I dress up because I love dressing up. And what does that have to do with anything anyway?

What Can We Do?

My friend’s stories didn’t stop there. There were many more. When our conversation came to a close, I capped my pen and closed my notebook. But the air was still filled with her floating words, leftover thoughts, and a kind of residual anger that only an unresolved situation can give life to.

“What can we do about all this?” we asked each other.

“Well, we just did something,” I said, nodding towards my notebook on the table, pen wedged inside.

For more advice on how to go about situations like this, please read our article about battling ingrained sexism in the Japanese workplace.

If you are experiencing or witnessing sexism in Japan, please consider contacting the Human Rights Bureau in Japan for counseling and support:

Human Rights Hotline: 0570-003-110
Women’s Rights Hotline: 0570-070-810

If you have a story of workplace sexism in Japan to share, contact us at editor@savvytokyo.com (anonymity guaranteed) or leave a comment here if you would like to share your story publicly.

The Tricky “Where Are You From?” Question in Japan

Jes Kalled — Mon, 17 Feb 2020 09:24:49 +0000

Living abroad is an exciting and at times delicate beast to behold. One of the first prolific things I noticed when trapezing in and outside of state and country lines was the near-constant reminder of being asked to know who I was, where I came from, and to be able to explain my background succinctly.

Identity, where nationality intersects with ethnicity to compound the complexity of you

Appearance, voice, accent, even the way I carry myself signifies different things to different people in a way I have not been able to contain. On occasion, I’m mistaken for being from somewhere else, sometimes questioned even in my home country.

It’s a curious, interesting thing: identity, where nationality intersects with ethnicity to compound the complexity of you. An equation that is somewhat the sum total of your parts, plus or minus the other experiences that also may have defined you nonetheless.

“Where Are You From?”

In the six years that I’ve lived in Japan, a country that is 98% Japanese, it is no surprise that it has become commonplace to have to identify myself and where I’m from on a regular basis.

My approach and my reaction to this seemingly uncomplicated “Where are you from?” question have changed over time. Perhaps that’s due simply to the number of years I’ve spent fielding it in a homogeneous country as a semi-mixed person.

Conversely, it could be that the question doesn’t comprehend the complexity of which I’ve come to associate it with, especially depending on who’s asking and why. That said, I like to keep things simple. “The states,” is my usual response, or sometimes even, “I live in Tokyo.”

In order to better understand the subtleties of this location-identity phenomena myself, I reached out to thirteen people to see how they navigate this question and the conversations born from it.

An Innocent Question, A Frustrating One

Interviewees responded that they were, for the most part, unbothered or trying to be unbothered by being asked “Where are you from?” in Japan.

Of the thirteen people interviewed, nine of them mentioned the same word in their answer: curious, or curiosity, usually citing that if the asker was Japanese, the question was most likely coming from an innocent, “curious” place.

Despite understanding what seems like an innocuous intention, some interviewees cited feeling frustrated due to the sheer amount of times being asked in a week, and to the implication that being asked, identified someone as being different or other than the asker.

Bran, 30, who has been living in Japan for six years, advocates that his feelings on this question have been the same since year one of living in Japan: he doesn’t mind it at all.

Of the thirteen people interviewed, nine of them mentioned the same word in their answer: curious, or curiosity

When Japanese people ask him where he’s from he begins by prompting them to guess.

“Almost 90% of the time [they say] that I am from Africa.”

He continues. “When I tell them I am from Jamaica most people [believe] Jamaica is in Africa, which is a fair assumption. I use these opportunities as a chance to teach people about my home country, Jamaica.”

No Place To Hide

Likewise, Tia, 31, U.S., who has lived in Japan for eight years, emphasizes that the question doesn’t always carry the same weight that it may in other countries.

She says, “In Japan, I feel it’s safe to give folks the benefit of the doubt that the asker is genuinely curious.”

Tia wasn’t alone in this comparison. Madeline, 23, a Canadian who has been living in Japan for over a year suggests that it’s reasonable for Japanese people to ask.

“With such a firm ethnocultural identity, it seems only natural to me that Japanese people might be curious as to where I come from. There is no hiding my “otherness” in Japan. In Toronto, a tourist from any country could easily go undetected, so long as they leave behind their bulky bags and “I <3 Toronto” T-shirts. Here, even in the megacity of Tokyo, that kind of experience isn’t possible.”

There is no hiding my “otherness” in Japan

After living in Japan for ten years, Lena, 25, from Russia communicates her unease with the question and being visually identified as “other.”

“As any foreigner or a person not typically looking Japanese in Japan, [I] frequently get asked this question on a daily basis. Sometimes even my Japanese friends who were born here [and] whose mother language is Japanese get asked where they are from just because they don’t look like a typical Japanese person because of mixed blood. This is so irritating, and the most exhausting and boring question ever. It’s [like] “Ughh, here we go again.”

Kelly, 25, a Vietnamese Canadian, who has lived in Japan for three years, expresses that it depends on who’s asking.

“When it’s a Japanese person [asking] I am a little indifferent because I understand that an Asian face like mine can easily be mistaken for Japanese. Being asked where I am from is an honest curiosity on their part that I try to not take offensively.”

Kelly considers the fact that her Japanese language skills aren’t high, which she believes contributes to the gap in conversations surrounding or prompting the “where are you from” question.

“[I’m] filled with a tinge of guilt that I should be able to blend in more, or that I, out of other foreigners of different races, should have some sort of upper hand in blending in because of my race, even though I am just as entitled to identify as being Canadian/North-American/Native English speaker.”

But Why Are We Asked Anyway?

Born in Sri Lanka, but raised in the U.S. since the age of two and a half, Sawin, 28, has been subject to the balancing act of attempting to define his own identity in both countries ever since.

The idea that I’ll forever be looked on as an outsider is unsettling

Having lived in Japan for six years now, Sawin reasons that his reaction to this question in Japan ranges from positive to negative.

“In Japanese, the question comes with the assumption that you’re not from here. For me, all those assumptions are true but knowing that didn’t make it less frustrating. That’s not to say that I want to be from here, but I’ve lived here for a while and I’ll be here a while more. Maybe for the rest of my life. The idea that I’ll forever be looked on as an outsider is unsettling.”

Sawin laments the times when he feels adverse about being asked and finds himself actively trying to change his own mindset in regard to this question.

It Depends On The Context

Each of the interviewees had their own stories. Both in and outside of Japan, a multitude of “where are you from” experiences unfold.

For most people, how they felt about being asked this question was largely contingent on the country they were in, and perhaps most importantly who was asking the question and why.

Sareen, 25, Armenian-American from Los Angeles talks about her “white-passing” experience in the U.S.

“Before coming to Japan, I always regarded this as a prying question directed to people who look “exotic.” For example, a male Uber driver kept asking my Chinese-American friend [where she was from]. He was not satisfied by the answer “San Francisco,” and he obviously wanted to know what Asian ethnicity she [was] so that he could comment on that and try to flirt with her.”

Sareen narrates that she received an altogether different impression when she moved to Sendai.

“Where are you from?” as a way to break the ice

“In Japan, I learned over time that [asking where you’re from] was almost an icebreaker/small talk question, and I got excited to use it as an educational opportunity to tell Japanese people about my parent’s immigration story from Lebanon and Armenia, even though I’m US-born.”

But It Can Also Feel Unnecessary

Lisa, 27, Japanese-American born in Los Angeles, relates her story.

“To be honest, it doesn’t bother me in Japan. I never feel the need to have to back up my answer or prove that I’m from America […] My parents are both Japanese, and I was born and raised in the U.S. […] Since I look Japanese, people [usually assume] I’m from outside of Tokyo, not a different country […]”

Lisa, who has now lived in Japan for five years, imparts that the distress of the question comes from being asked by non-Japanese people.

“I actually get a lot more skeptical responses when I tell non-Japanese people that I’m from America. They seem more shocked, and I’ve gotten comments like “no wonder your English sounds so fluent,” which I feel is condescending and unnecessary.”

This is a question that is borderless, I get asked this question almost everywhere I go

Bran reflects on the different situations he encounters when he travels internationally.

“This is a question that is borderless, I get asked this question almost everywhere I go. However, the way it is asked is different. […] Europe and America are experiencing a rise in nationalism right now and the political atmosphere there makes me feel sometimes unwelcome or even threatened.”

Response and Reaction Exhaustion

Sometimes it wasn’t the question itself that raised concerns with some interviewees, but the responses that followed. Interviewees describe a world where the asker is at times aggressive, unknowing, or disbelieving. This resulted in a somewhat tired group of people having to explain who or what they are.

Shifa, 26, who is half Ugandan and half Japanese, describes scene after scene of being questioned and even refuted.

I’m a foreigner everywhere

“In my life, people always ask me so I’ve gotten used to it, but sometimes I get annoyed because if I just say “I’m from Japan” people don’t believe me. I have to explain in more detail and I feel denied. Even though I believe myself that I’m Japanese, other people don’t believe it. Something similar happens when I’m in Africa—I’m a foreigner everywhere.”

“This question is as normal as sliced bread.” Says Tia, when asked about how she feels being asked. However, she says her relationship to the responses she receives after telling people has been a bit “up and down.”

She continues, “As soon as ‘America’ left my lips, the person (mostly from a Commonwealth nation) would bash me, and my country for this and that without really taking into account that I am 1) a black American and 2) living far away from the US in Japan. These folks would be on their soapboxes for so long, I almost started to think I was the one flying drones in war zones and killing the world one Big Mac at a time or whatever the complaint was.”

It Can Lead to a Political Debate

Other interviewees from the U.S. reported congruent political concerns. “I always tell people where I am from. Although sometimes I wish I could say “Canada” because Trump is an embarrassment.” Says Brooke, 31, U.S., who has lived in Japan for four years.

Similarly, Lisa, says “After Trump got elected I stopped calling myself “American” or “from the US.” I usually stick to “I’m from LA”.

[My response] did change to the point where I just say “Guess where I’m from” and sometimes I just say “yes” to whatever they answer

Eli, 24, half Lebanese and Saudi Arabian, says “I don’t get bothered by the question, only trying to explain it. I’ve been asked where I am from way too many times. At the beginning it was kind of okay since people want to know, but when I say, ‘Lebanon,’ only very few know where it is, so I have to explain every time, and bit by bit I started not to explain [because] it was too much work. [My response] did change to the point where I just say “Guess where I’m from” and sometimes I just say “yes” to whatever they answer.”

Eli describes the variety of reactions from people, stating that “Some people are worried because it’s the Middle East, [others] get excited and either tell me how good the food is or how beautiful the sights are.”

In Summation: The Complexities and Joys Of Telling Your Story

For Melody, the complexity comes in explaining her name. She explains that people often ask her if “Melody” her real name, and if it has kanji.

“In explaining my name, I always tell them that my Dad is English and it’s my middle name, so they usually don’t get the chance to ask me where I’m from!”

If they ask things in a charged/angry manner, the best way to shock them is with kindness

When Melody does get asked where she is from, she “gives them the whole story,” with glee. “I’m mixed, my Dad is from England and my Mum is from Japan. I was born in London, moved to Japan when I was 1, moved back to England when I was 12, came back to Japan when I was 25, and for now, I’m settled in Tokyo – believe it or not, I actually never get bored or tired telling people this.”

Steffie, 28, Korean/Filipina/British Mix, from the US/Philippines recollects that her response to the “where are you from” question has changed.

“I used to be annoyed by it. But that was when I was lacking a lot of self-confidence and was confused by my identity. At this stage of my life, I am confident and proud of who I am, and I don’t judge other people for their biases — it’s just a testament to their surroundings and how they were raised. If they ask things in a charged/angry manner, the best way to shock them is with kindness.”

Where Are You From… And Who Are You?

Throughout these interviews, I encountered nuance, variation, and a medley of stories. Asking someone, where they’re from, does come with subtext, and sometimes the question though loaded and even personal, can come from an innocent place. It is improbable for some of us to hide as foreigners here, and elsewhere—and what is “foreignness” anyway?

Many interviewees related their desire to be seen as human first, nationality and ethnicity second, although some did express pride in where they were from and an affirmation of not caring how people responded to that.

In a world that has always been hyper-aware of identity and “difference,” and one that is, in recent times, dangerously threatening “otherness” as a way of not belonging, perhaps our discussions, and our willingness to embrace ourselves can help us all navigate to a safer atmosphere in Japan, and beyond.

To put it in Shifa’s words: “I lost my identity…What should I call myself? But [then] my good friend told me, ‘Don’t define yourself. Shifa is Shifa. You are so lucky to be unique.’”

You are so lucky to be unique.

The #KimOhNo Conversation: How Do Japanese People Feel About It Now?

Jes Kalled — Thu, 15 Aug 2019 03:00:39 +0000

In late June, reality television star, Kim Kardashian West, announced a new shapewear collection called “Kimono.” The backlash was instant. With Japanese people at its forefront, a #KimOhNo Twitter campaign was launched against West, as well as a petition via change.org with as many as 120,000 signatures just days after her news. At first, the fashion mogul remained unwavering; she made an official statement in a New York Times article that said, “I understand and have a deep respect for the significance of the kimono in Japanese culture,” reaffirming the pride she has for her brand and its inclusivity.

My perception and image of kimono are not going to change at all…[I’m] sure people will keep using the word with what it has meant for thousands of years.

However, just a day after the mayor of Kyoto, Daisaku Kadokawa, penned an open letter to West asking her to reconsider. The celebrity backed down and agreed to re-release her product under a new name, Solutionwear. This shift took place less than a week after her initial kimono brand name reveal.

Intrigued by the heavy wave of protests and its fast turnaround success, I interviewed twelve Japanese people living inside and outside of Japan on how they felt about the recent news. Here’s what they had to say:

For the sake of privacy, some interviewees have used pseudonyms. Their responses have been condensed and edited, and some have been translated from Japanese.

Confusion and Eye Rolls

Some simply questioned Kardashian West’s latest move. It was difficult to place their finger on the exact problem—including their feelings on it.

“My friend had texted me about the kimono fiasco, and I remember shrugging; I wasn’t entirely surprised nor thrilled by the scandal…” says Naomi Hirano, 27, an account manager in Tokyo. She continues, somewhat perplexed, “Was the name used because of Kim’s assumptions of what a kimono was? Was it purely literary?… Ignorance is certainly not an excuse but…” She trails off there, wondering.

For me, [Kardashian West using ‘kimono’] is not a heavy thing. This way of thinking is really American. In America, cultural appropriation is a sensitive issue.

While there was confusion, sales engineer from Yokohama, Taishu, 28, isn’t upset. In fact, he thinks this isn’t such a big deal. “For me, [Kardashian West using ‘kimono’] is not a heavy thing. This way of thinking is really American. In America, cultural appropriation is a sensitive issue.”

SSS, a 27-year-old office worker in Tokyo, didn’t feel confusion nor content. In fact, she replied that she felt “Not much. Actually, nothing.” Confident that Kardashian West doesn’t actually have as much power as she is made out to have, SSS declares, “My perception and image of kimono are not going to change at all…[I’m] sure people will keep using the word with what it has meant for thousands of years.”

To be honest I hate the word “cultural appropriation”. It’s like racism—it’s casually thrown out so much so that it doesn’t mean anything anymore.

Sharing a somewhat similar opinion is Daigo Kawai, 39, a CEO and producer in Tokyo. He is adamant that all of this is nonsense, and dives into a bit of word politics and criticism. “To be honest I hate the word “cultural appropriation”. It’s like racism—it’s casually thrown out so much so that it doesn’t mean anything anymore.”

He continues to say that America doesn’t really have any cultural traditions that have lasted a “millennia” the way that Japan does. For this reason, it shouldn’t be considered “offensive” to pull from cultures from all over the world. “People are too sensitive about everything… Life is short, just enjoy and appreciate other cultures.”

Outrage and Disbelief: A Kimono is a Kimono

“It makes me very angry.” Says Alex Maya Goldberg, a 28-year-old urban planner currently living in Cambridge, Massachusetts. “[It’s] absolutely a form of cultural appropriation. There is no indication that Kim K. named her new line with hopes of observing a Japanese cultural tradition.” Goldberg describes West’s decision as “blatant,” asking, “how did nobody stop her?”

No Connection to A Traditional Kimono

Goldberg was not alone in expressing her commiseration with the #KimOhNo movement. Kaoru Imafuku, 40, a filmmaker in Kanagawa, explains that he isn’t usually bothered by word politics.

“Personally I’m not too precious about how words should be used and I believe words are something that can assimilate into other cultures and evolve their meanings over time… In the case of Kim Kardashian’s product line, however, I understand the backlash. [Her product] appears to have little to no connection to the Japanese garment, and the fact that it’s used for an underwear product line is quite confusing.”

I thought it was a lie. I thought I heard the news wrong. But then when I realized it was real, I was so mad.

In line with Goldberg and Imafuku, many others were concerned with the simple fact that West’s new fashion line had nothing to do with the traditional kimono and lacked respect its inherent history. Some cited “ignorance” or “a lack of originality” as components of West’s decision to co-opt the word “kimono” into a fashion that had no similarity to its original namesake.

Although some interviewees stated that it was indeed a form of cultural appropriation, others, like Sachy, 40, a web producer in Tokyo, couldn’t confirm it was, but expressed her uneasiness nonetheless. “I thought it was a lie. I thought I heard the news wrong. But then when I realized it was real, I was so mad.”

Sachy sites geography as a factor in her reaction. “The situation is kind of distant from us [in Japan], but if I saw the lingerie up close [in the U.S.] I would be very sad because there is such a big gap between her product and our kimono.”

Kimono Is Not A Business

The controversy deepens when it comes to the idea of trademarking and owning intellectual property rights to “kimono” itself.

“It’s infuriating and it also reminds me how much power capitalism still has today.” Laments Naomi Hirano.

It’s infuriating and it also reminds me how much power capitalism still has today.

Daigo Kawai recalls his knee-jerk reaction after reading an article in Vice. “There she goes again. Another PR stunt. Nobody knows her in Japan so my initial response was that no one would care about this but, oh boy was I wrong.” He continues with conviction, “It’s neither cultural appropriation nor a celebration [of diversity]. It’s a pure marketing ploy from Kim and her PR/Marketing team to leech on.”

West’s attempt to source her intimates line with “kimono” would shadow the true meaning of the word, which is what struck the innermost chords of distress amongst Japanese people.

Kimono Is Art

Deeply rooted respect for the garment is was what fueled the larger crowds against West’s initial move to use “kimono” in her next enterprise.

Loli, 30, and currently living in France, illustrates the importance of the traditional kimono to her. “To me, kimono is one of the most emblematic cultural symbols of Japan. It is beautiful, delicate, and elegant… it’s an art.” She states with emphasis, “There is nothing in common between her product and an actual kimono.”

Language Symbols and A Long-Standing Tradition

To gain a better understanding of this issue, I reached out to two Japanese professors who taught or are currently teaching in the U.S. for their takes on the matter.

“This problem actually has more to do with language using symbols [associated] with the cultural understanding of the people who share that language.” Says Masakazu Watabe, 72, a retired Japanese professor in Orem, Utah with a Ph.D. in Theoretical Linguistics.

“… In our society, when people use certain names or words, they take on the meaning related to those products.” Watabe uses “Kleenex” as an example of a tendency that humans have to associate a symbol or in this case a brand, with meaning.

… our hope is that people [will] become more sensitive to these symbols and make decisions with better educated and sensitive consideration rather than using legality or other means to pursue mere business pursuits.

Another example he shared was of the infamous use of the Swastika. Though today it is associated with Hitler and the Holocaust, it was actually adapted from Japanese Buddhism where it stood as a symbol of peace.

“[Japanese Buddhist Temples] recently announced to change this symbol of temples in Japan due to the negative association with the Swastika symbol. With this in mind… our hope is that people [will] become more sensitive to these symbols and make decisions with better educated and sensitive consideration rather than using legality or other means to pursue mere business pursuits.”

In short, I can not imagine passing on my body spandex to my daughter and [have this be a way to] appreciate the garment culturally.

Japanese senior lecturer, Atsuko Takahashi, 45, in Northampton, Massachusetts, shares that the incident has reminded her of the importance of the kimono. Having recently given her three-year-old daughter her own kimono for the memorable Japanese holiday, 七五三(Shichi-Go-San), she reflects on the value of the family tradition of passing down kimonos generation after generation. The professor’s grandmother had made the kimono for her 40 years ago for the sake of the very same ceremony.

Takahashi denotes that spandex is not a reflection of the tradition she recognizes. “In short, I can not imagine passing on my body spandex to my daughter and [have this be a way to] appreciate the garment culturally.” Takahashi continues, “[Kimono] contains [a] much deeper meaning. I felt like it was lost in translation.”

Thoughts on Speaking Up

Americans are acutely aware of who Kim Kardashian West is, but the controversial celebrity is not well-known in Japan, making the strong reaction to West’s maneuver all the more remarkable.

Many women posted on social media photos of themselves dressed in their kimono for special life events with the hashtag #KimOhNo. Ayaka, 39, a salesperson in Tokyo, notes on the surprisingly male involvement. “I saw many Japanese females posting and raising awareness, but this time I saw many Japanese males commenting on [social media] and that makes me especially happy.”

I saw many Japanese females posting and raising awareness, but this time I saw many Japanese males commenting on [social media] and that makes me especially happy.

To Yoko, 40, a teacher in Tokyo, speaking out on social media wasn’t enough to cause a real change. Instead of focusing on the Kardashian West problem, she wants to shift the nation’s attention instead to its current political problems. “I would like to write a letter to Shinzo Abe rather [than] writing and complaining to her.” SSS’s final answer on the matter is simple. “Ignore Kardashians.” On a different note, Alex Maya Goldberg suggests, “Call them out as needed.”

The use of symbols and how we associate language seems to have an effect on many people, including those who are tired of hearing about it. Looking forward, perhaps we can anticipate societies to grow increasingly vocal about things they believe in via the accessibility of social media. While, at the same time, we can also expect to hear varying degrees of doubt and objection to those reactions. Change or no change, in this age of congested information, there is a certain level of fatigue and resilience experienced by all.

How did you feel when the shapewear brand was first announced? Did you brush it off or post a photo of yourself in the traditional garment? Tell us in the comments below.

Photos in the featured image were compiled from the following public Instagram accounts: @visit.kyoto, @emiksn, @rootinandgaijin, @monfantome, @0oyukao0, @smappa_mg

#KuToo: What Do Women in Japan Think About the Movement?

Jes Kalled — Fri, 28 Jun 2019 05:33:56 +0000

Last week I interviewed fourteen Japanese women and two Korean women living and working in Japan about their opinions in regards to #KuToo, a movement founded by actress and journalist, Yumi Ishikawa, that aims to ban Japanese companies from enforcing women to wear heels in the workplace. Although not every interview is quoted here, sixteen voices have given shape to this article, and the many layers it represents.

In a Diet committee session, the Minister of Health, Labor, & Welfare said, “[Wearing heels] is socially accepted as something that falls within the realm of being occupationally necessary and appropriate.” Later he stated emphatically that he did not say that he approved of forcing women to wear heels at work. He indicated that forcing injured women to wear heels was “power harassment,” but when asked about noninjured women, he repeated his original statement adding that “It depends on the specific situation. In light of social norms, it can’t be considered harassment unless it exceeds the scope of what’s appropriate and necessary for the job.”

In response to the Minister’s official statements, the women I interviewed touched on everything from how to carefully navigate through years of reinforced tradition and vague policies, to a reflection about a mother throwing dishes out a window in protest of having to wash them because of her gender. The range of opinions and situations differ, but rather unsurprisingly one message seems to ring true: a new conversation has been sparked in Japan.

The following responses have been condensed, edited, and some have been translated from Japanese. Some names have been changed for privacy.

Where We Stand

“I’ve never felt it was necessary or appropriate. I wear them because I feel good,” says Fumi, 31, a Project Development Analyst. “When I wear heels I feel taller, physically stronger, I feel cooler. In a way, it’s just a part of me wanting to look good and that’s my choice.”

Although Fumi is not forced to wear heels at work, she felt strongly that this movement should be supported. The campaign has received about 19,000 signatures so far in support of its cause. “We [Japanese] don’t speak out really—especially women. Women are usually very… confined both culturally and traditionally. That’s why I felt like, wow, a movement by Japanese women. It’s like wow, I was kind of happy.”

“Women should be free to dress without any kind of opposition from anyone.”

In contrast to Fumi’s more relaxed dress code, Aya, 30, a salesperson, says that heels are enforced at her current job, and were enforced in her previous work environments as well. “I was happy to see some females who are willing to start a change. Because I’m sick of it. I’m fine with wearing heels but I want to wear them whenever I want to… The decision should be mine. Not men’s. They don’t even wear [heels]; they don’t even know how painful it is and they’re forcing us to wear them? That’s like a huge no, no.”

Aya mentions her disappointment in Japan’s stagnant progress. In 2018, Japan was ranked 110th for gender equality in the World Economic Forum report, the lowest ranked of the G7 countries. According to a recent Japan Times article, women make up just 5% of senior or managerial positions, so there’s a 95% chance a boss who delegates dress code will be a man. “To me, I feel like they rob us… [Female workers] are not allowed to show any personality or character.” Aya argues.

“In a way, it’s just a part of me wanting to look good and that’s my choice.”

Motomi, 29, a former travel agent and now a housewife, has a different take. “At first, I thought I could support #kutoo. But now I feel that if you are wearing heels then, of course, you look more fashionable. Men wear cool suits and cool ties, so I feel like it makes sense for women to wear something that matches that—like heels. It’s cool-looking, just like the men’s wear… Everyone is wearing fashionable clothes in order to look good at work, I don’t think that’s a bad thing.”

“Shoe problems are human rights problems!” Having read about #KuToo in a newspaper article, Estuko Kumagai, 68 and retired, exclaims, “To the Minister I want to say, ‘heels harm women’s health!’” Kumagai reflects on her working days in the 70’s when heels were a must. “To say that heels are ‘socially acceptable’ or ‘common sense’ is a male point of view… Heels were originally a tool of sexual performance, bound to the sense of beauty constructed uniquely and exclusively by men… Women should be free to dress without any kind of opposition from anyone.”

“To say that heels are ‘socially acceptable’ or ‘common sense’ is a male point of view”

Some women are skeptical of the media and the international attention the Minister’s statement is receiving. Shizuka, 31, a secretary, read several articles from various media sources before she made her opinion. “To summarize [the Minister’s] entire statement as the enforcement of heels being “appropriate and necessary” is a bit inaccurate, right? That is my first impression. I think I support the #KuToo movement itself, but I find fault in this kind of controversy in that we might be making the problem worse than it is… My desire is for everyone to read articles more carefully.” Shizuka believes that the Minister’s statement is vaguer than the media claims it is.

Personal Experiences

A few women brought up the incredible difficulty of sexual assault. In comparison to the many other women’s issues there are in the world, the enforcement of heels is a problem that is emotionally easier to tackle. “I’ve been groped on a train, or I’ve had suspicions that this guy was being dodgy. Of course, it’s easy to say [here and] now, ‘Oh yeah… I’m going to report him to the staff.’ [But] I couldn’t do anything about it [at the time]. It’s hard. But then, luckily, this heel thing is not as hard as that. It’s not as hard as standing up to somebody who is grabbing [you]. So I think this is an easier step to take.” Says English language teacher, Ayumi Melody, 35.

Going hand in hand with the discussion on the enforcement of heels in the workplace is the revolving conversation regarding women’s appropriate appearance. Several women recalled times when their makeup or clothing was criticized, and they were told that they were either wearing too much or too little.

“At first, I thought I could support #KuToo. But now I feel that if you are wearing heels then, of course, you look more fashionable. Men wear cool suits and cool ties, so I feel like it makes sense for women to wear something that matches that—like heels.”

Yoko, 40, a college professor tells us, “One of my colleagues who is around 50 years old [spoke to me] about my outfit. When I wore a frilled top (not too much frill) he said I looked like a monk. The way he told me was really mean. I was upset and I didn’t feel like wearing it again so I threw it away immediately. I sometimes wear trainers when I go to work and then I change [into] heels at my workplace. The same colleague mentioned, ‘Oh, you are wearing trainers to come to work, aren’t you? I [don’t think that’s right].’ I didn’t understand why he kept saying that, but I haven’t stopped wearing trainers to go to work because, as most people know, [they are] very comfortable to walk [in].”

In contrast, other women have also stated that they have never had the issue of being criticized for their work appearance. Pilates studio employee, Hana, 29, says, “Sometimes when I hear about or see this kind of movement, it’s easy to forget that there are also places where we do have a choice because people have such strong opinions on these issues.” Hana wants to remind people that they can find places in Japan that are not so strict on women’s dress code.

Hei-ran, 27, an employee for a manufacturing company, mentions the challenges of josei shikkaku 女性失格 which means “you are not acting like a proper woman.” “My colleague told me to never ‘cross my legs.’ She told me to sit kind of like a mermaid. She always tells me that she’s never seen a girl crossing her legs in Japan. I was shocked about that.”

“I’m fine with wearing heels but I want to wear them whenever I want to… The decision should be mine.”

“I’ve always been told not to,” says Mika, 26, who was sitting on the couch next to Hei-ran for this interview. Mika, who works at the same company as Hei-ran, says that she has always been accustomed to hearing these kinds of things. “It’s very normal to me,” Mika says thoughtfully.

Hei-ran continues, “I think men think of women as decorations, especially young women… We do a lot of entertaining for our clients every night—we buy alcohol and we bring them to expensive restaurants. My boss said, ‘You should come. We need a woman to entertain the clients.’ I actually didn’t want to go, but I didn’t really have a choice. What I’m really scared of is that while I felt really against [all this] at first, I can feel myself starting getting used to it. I think I’ve been changed, and that terrifies me.”

“Sometimes when I hear about or see this kind of movement, it’s easy to forget that there are also places where we do have a choice,”

Shizuka, however, hasn’t had the same experience. “I have never felt such an ‘implicit rule.’ I have never heard of people talking about that these days. This seems to fit old Japanese customs and is different from the current Japanese flow of society. Some companies may still have that trend though…”

What’s next?

Those who began the movement and those who support it now share a common concern: health and wellbeing. Perhaps the most talked about the layer of #KuToo is the “pain,” “discomfort,” and “harm” heels cause the body and mind. Rather ironically, heels are not only hindering employees’ health, but they are also a detriment to a company’s productivity as well: interviewees confirm “low productivity” is an unavoidable outcome due to the pain of wearing them. A common thread found amongst supporters was that people should indulge in the fashion if they want to, but if they feel otherwise, now is the time to talk about it.

Yukiko, 35, a clinician, feels that everyone should put their health first, before work. She shares her take. “I think most Japanese don’t like to speak up because they don’t want to stand out… So, I just want to encourage them to participate or just say something on social media… It’s hard. [But] if you’re a woman, I think there are others who struggle with the same issues. I’m sure they are [out] there. Don’t be afraid, you can speak up. You have others.”

“[The challenge is that] we can’t really apply western feminism to Japan because we have different cultures, backgrounds, and traditions. If we just apply western culture, [and their version of feminism,] sometimes it doesn’t work—it won’t work. So I think balance is really important.”

Many women wondered what they should do next. There were a lot of questions about how a change should be addressed, and a strong desire to be inclusive of every kind of opinion regarding heels and dress code. An overall consideration for others is taken very seriously, and the method on how to open start these conversations is being carefully thought through.

Woohyang, 31, a receptionist says “[The challenge is that] we can’t really apply western feminism to Japan because we have different cultures, backgrounds, and traditions. If we just apply western culture, [and their version of feminism,] sometimes it doesn’t work—it won’t work. So I think balance is really important.”

“There may be a lot of people who don’t care whether or not women wear heels at work… So if somebody is not wearing heels, I think it’s better if we don’t make comments about it… it’s best not to care about what others think… Be yourself.”

Recruiter, Aya Odaira, 29, discovers her answer mid-sentence. She looks up. “We should begin by simply not wearing them if we don’t want to,” She says. “All women should begin by permitting other women not to wear them.” Aya goes on to describe the ups and downs of hierarchical relationships in the workplace in Japan and how that can make women feel pressured. “There may be a lot of people who don’t care whether or not women wear heels at work,” she continues, “So if somebody is not wearing heels, I think it’s better if we don’t make comments about it.” She nods and smiles to herself. “Yes, it’s best not to care about what others think… Be yourself.”

What do you think?

Throughout this interview process, I encountered many voices. Although several women felt that justice and understanding would arrive after a full day of a Minister in heels, others urged caution, restraint, and alternative methods to bring change. There were those who danced on the outskirts of wanting to suffer for fashion, and the opinions don’t stop there. The conversation is still in free flow.

As it stands, there has not yet been movement on the government’s behalf on whether or not they will effectively ban the enforcement of heels or pumps in the workplace. However, #KuToo continues to make moves. Just this week, information was updated on the #KuToo website to ask for women to share their stories and opinions with NHK Asaichi where they will be published.

I’m looking forward to reading more from the voices of real women who have experienced or are currently in the Japanese workplace. What do you think about the #KuToo movement?

Kichijoji: A Guide to Tokyo’s Most Livable Neighborhood

Jes Kalled — Tue, 11 Dec 2018 05:12:39 +0000

In Kichijoji, the moment your feet touch the ground you’re within walking distance of any kind of place that you can imagine. Located amid the western suburbs of Tokyo in Musashino City, Kichijoji plays host to an array of lovely coffee houses, live jazz, swan boats, theaters, a zoo, and shops that engage the imagination. With a warm and inviting atmosphere — in part thanks to one of the capital’s most cosmopolitan and friendliest communities — Kichijoji is a magical place to explore with friends, family or by yourself.

History and Background

Interestingly, the name Kichijoji derives from the Hindu goddess of wealth, fortune and posterity, “Lakshmi,” known as Kichijoten in her Japanese Buddhist form. The temple dedicated to this goddess, Kichijo-ji, was originally located in Bunkyo-ku before being lost in a fire in 1657. After the fire, new land was provided for those whose homes had been destroyed. In memory of their lost home, the relocated residents decided to name the new village after their beloved temple, Kichijoji.

Nowadays, Kichijoji is a regular feature on various lists of the best areas to live in the Tokyo metropolitan area, notably winning the top spot on Japanese real estate giant Suumo’s annual survey in 2017. Though it was beaten by Yokohama this year, Kichijoji is still one of the city’s most sought-after neighborhoods for home seekers.

Things to Do

Inokashira Park

In the heart of Kichijoji lives Inokashira Park, a haven of trees, a gorgeous giant pond which gets filled with sakura petals in spring, and a bridge that is reminiscent of the one in Spirited Away. Large in size, but intimate in proportion, Inokashira Park provides tree-covered paths for a refreshing stroll along the water. Tucked away in a forested alcove towards the east of the park, you’ll stumble upon Benzaiten shrine, dedicated to the goddess of “everything that flows.”

Inokashira Park Zoo

In addition to the conservation and breeding of indigenous animals in the area, the zoo inside Inokashira Park was home to the first elephant ever to come to Japan after World War II. Named Hanako, she now has her own statue at Kichijoji station’s northern exit, unveiled two years ago to honor her memory. Within the park, you’ll also find a beautiful botanical garden, and an open-air sculpture museum with pieces by Seibo Kitamura, the man behind the famous Peace Statue in Nagasaki.

Ghibli Museum

The western side of Inokashira Park is home to the Ghibli Museum, a pocket of magic and mystery for all those who know and love the works of Hayao Miyazaki. For tickets, you’ll need to purchase in advance at Lawsons —the museum’s website has instructions on how to do this. Photography is not allowed inside the museum, so much is left to the imagination until you set foot inside where exquisitely designed and whimsical exhibitions await.

Cocomaru Theater

Cocomaru Theater, located along the Penny Lane Road just at the entrance of Sun Road, is a retro-looking cinema-cafe hybrid. Despite its newness (it opened late in 2017) Cocomaru offers a nostalgic atmosphere for film buffs. The first-floor theatre screens both independent and commercial films but focuses especially on supporting the former, holding special screenings with the director. The cafe is located on the second floor with a reasonably priced menu of diner-style ‘Merican foods like burgers and beer.

Sometime

A short walk from Cocomaru Theatre is Sometime, an institution of Kichijoji’s renowned jazz scene. Every night, this dark and moody locale comes alive with the sound of music. At its center a beautiful grand piano sets the mood; the audience sits around the musicians in circular fashion or above them in loft-like seats. Sometime also holds daytime gigs on weekends and holidays, and serves coffee and western-style lunch throughout the day.

Where to Shop

Hyakunen

Hyakunen is a little shop is home to books both new and old, magazines, DVDs, a small collection of records, and some homemade zines, which gives it a fantastically underground literary vibe. Hyakunen hosts exhibitions for readers, authors and artists who show their work on the walls of the store.

Skit

Skit is home to what seems like hundreds of carefully wrapped vintage sneakers lining the shelves of a sleek, compact showroom. There are so many styles to browse; brands from Nike and Adidas to Onitsuka Tiger, as well as rare vintage finds, mean you’ll be hard pressed to prevent yourself from making an “investment.” Follow their Twitter feed to preview new arrivals.

Sun Road

Take the North Exit from Kichijoji Station and you’ll no doubt be drawn across the street towards Sun Road, a covered shopping arcade with stores stocking everything from pets, boutique hats, groceries, cosmetics and almost anything else you might want. A central hub for Kichijoji, Sun Road is also jam packed with interesting options for places to eat — just look up to the arcade’s second floor for inspiration.

Nakamichi-dori

Narrow Nakamichi-dori boasts a novel collection of small boutiques and cute spots to eat and drink. You’ll need to set aside an afternoon to explore the miscellaneous collections of quirky postcards, one-of-a-kind-Japanese homeware, vintage clothes, designer goods, and cozy coffee houses that are all equally perfect Instagram fodder.

Atré, Tokyu and Coppice

The sprawling department stores Atré and Tokyu are conveniently located around Kichijoji Station while Coppice, a department store located near Cocomaru Theatre, is a shoppers paradise designed with families in mind. Kids clothing brands, baby supplies stores, and foreign food shops make up the large complex. On the fifth floor of the A building there’s a play area for kids known as Kid’s Space and a baby changing room, too.

Where to eat

Monk’s Foods

Named after jazz legend Thelonious Monk, but also giving off those Buddhist vibes, Monk’s Foods has tasty organic meals and vegetarian options that are good for the soul. Monks Foods has a bar on the first floor lined with CDs and group seating on the second. The whole operation is run by a sweet elderly couple with some very impressive musical knowledge.

Temari no Ouchi

The interior of this cat cafe is cuter than most with a charming fairytale decor that makes you feel like you’re walking into a children’s book. Customers are able to play with the cats as much and for as long as they like, taking up residence together with them on one of the low tables. With three floors, it’s quite large, but you’ll typically find cats cozying up in the clever nooks and crannies spread throughout. When staff ring the bell for dinner time, the stampede of fluffy cats is absolutely adorable.

Mahika Mano Hammock Cafe

Slip off your shoes and climb into a hammock at Mahika Mano Hammock Cafe, a quirky concept that has taken Kichijoji by storm (the neighborhood has several similar spots). Honey milk tea and homemade gnocchi are favorite picks from a vegan-friendly menu, just make sure not to swing too violently in your seat while you’re enjoying it. It’s very popular on the weekends, so there might be a line. Understandably.

Pepa Café Forest

Located beneath the trees of Inokashira Park, this Southeast Asian restaurant has eclectic decor and a similarly diverse menu to boot. Relax with a good Thai meal, a Vietnamese coffee, or a cold Sri Lankan beer on either the outdoor or indoor seats —a joy in spring or autumn.

Kooriya Peace

The changing menu of weird and wonderful flavors, like, um, tomato shaved ice, keeps the neighborhood on its toes and coming back for more. Kooriya Peace is open year round but only seats eight. Happily, they do takeaway, too. They don’t have a website, but you can follow the owner and his adorably fluffy dogs on Instagram.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by ぴぃす(^-^)/ (@lovely.peace) on Aug 9, 2018 at 8:39pm PDT

Shaun Cafe

Once a pop-up cafe, Shaun the Sheep from the popular Wallace and Gromit claymation series now has a permanent home on the 4th floor of Kichijoji’s famous department store Parco. You can find him in various forms on the menu with his signature blank expression, even as a muffin!

Kichijoji Waltz

This restaurant’s rotating menu consists of select Japanese delicacies such as ayu (sweetfish) rice, steamed jade dumplings, tuna bonito salad, and a huge variety of domestic sake. Keeping in time with Kichijoji’s jazz scene beat, the music and atmosphere combined makes Waltz a favorite hideout among locals.

Events: Autumn to Summer

Since 1972, Kichijoji has been celebrating the Akimatsuri, or “Fall Festival,” a celebration of the Musashino Hachimangu shrine, home to the spirit of Musashino. In the winter, things get romantic with “illumination” light ups at Kichijoji and neighboring station Musashisakai. During the colder months, the tourism office also offers a six temple and shrine expedition to visit the gods. If you want to pray for a year of good luck, this is the way to seal the deal.

In spring, the Kichijoji Music Festival brings jazz concerts, parades, and live band performances to the neighborhood’s streets. Spring is also the time for cherry blossoms. Inokashira Park is one of Tokyo’s most popular spots for hanami, with revellers queing for the chance to rent a swan boat and gaze at the flowers from the pond.

Summer sees Kichijoji join the celebrations for Tanabata, where mikoshi floats make yet another appearance. In August, there’s a Bon Odori dance event complete with dancing, games, and festival food.

Getting there

Easy to get to from Shinjuku and central Tokyo but also close to the nature of Mount Mitake and Okutama, Kichijoji is accessible from very different worlds in Tokyo. From Shinjuku, take the Chuo Line, which takes about 14 minutes on a rapid train. The JR Sobu Line also runs to Kichijoji Station, traveling to and from Shinjuku and Chiba. The Keio-Inokashira subway line coming from Shibuya takes about 23 minutes. From both Haneda and Narita airports, buses go directly to and from Kichijoji station’s east side.

Stop by the Musashino Tourism Office, just five minutes from the North Exit of Kichijoji Station, for tips on making the most of your neighborhood tour. There is also a smaller information center inside the Atre Kichijoji shopping center. Alternatively, the official website makes planning your trip in Kichijoji a simple and fun process.

11 Movie Releases To Watch In Japan This Year

Jes Kalled — Tue, 21 Aug 2018 07:12:01 +0000

It’s 2018 and it sometimes feels like the world is falling apart. (Kind of, right?) But the movie theater is here to help. Not only can we escape into a world of beautiful and yet tragic realities, we can also witness the influence of the chaotic outside world on our contemporary screens in an elegant storyline. So take a moment to excuse yourself from the rumble and tumble of the realities in your own life and step briefly into the lives of the following movies. Refreshing, heartbreaking, exciting — these new releases will give you some inspiration, some food for thought, a lot of laughter, and maybe even, a new direction in life. Enjoy!

1. Ocean’s 8

Fashioned in the same universe as Hollywood’s favorite men-who-look-cool-stealing-things series, Ocean’s 8 makes a fresh entrance with a brave and funny female cast. A parallel story where Sandra Bullock leads the way as Debbie Ocean, the leader of a team of specialized crooks all prepared to make a huge heist at NYC’s annual met gala after getting out of prison. Think fashion. Glamour. And thrill. Think, Anne Hathaway ironically and humorously filling the role that the public gave her a few years back as a people-pleasing beauty until…plot twist. Prepare for laughs and excitement with a cast whose chemistry will have you wondering which badass heist member you’d be.

Now playing at: Shinjuku Piccadilly, Toho Cinemas, Movix, Aeon Cinema and other theaters across Japan.
Watch with: Your boss lady coworkers or best friends — just to feel even more BA.
Japanese title:『オーシャンズ８（エイト）』(Ocean’s eight)

2. Tully

A funny, honest, and empathetic look at a modern family who’s about to embark on the journey of having their third child. Made in collaboration with the same directors as Juno, this film focuses on the raw humanity of what it truly means to give birth to a baby, to take care of said baby, and to continue wearing the baby weight despite being on camera. Tully, a nanny that comes in to save the day is too good to be true — until she isn’t. However, perhaps overriding the importance of the story in this film, is simply how beautifully it pays attention to the physical, emotional, and humorous tides of being a parent, and more especially, a mother.

Now playing at: Toho Cinemas Chanter (Hibiya), Shibuya Humax (From Sept.1) and other theaters in most cities in Japan. (Release dates defer according to regions)
Watch with: Anyone feeling empathetic. Maybe a close friend. And your partner.
Japanese title: 『タリーと私の秘密の時間』(Tarii to watashi no himitsu no jikan)

3. Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again!

The energetic and charming sequel to 2008’s Mamma Mia!, tells the backstory of Meryl Streep’s character, Donna, and how she came to meet Harry, Bill, and Sam, while also telling the present day story of Donna’s daughter, Sophie (Amanda Seyfried) who is making preparations to re-open her mother’s hotel whilst expecting. An exciting past and present flick that doesn’t hold back on the ABBA, the drama, the dancing, nor the reuniting of all our favorite characters.

Playing at: Toho Cinemas, Shinjuku Piccadilly, Humax, Aeon Cinemas, 109 Cinemas and other theaters across Japan Aug. 24.
Watch with: Your besties. If possible, your mom.
Japanese title:『マンマ・ミーア！ヒア・ウィー・ゴー』(Mamma mia here we go)

4. The Insult

Selected as the Lebanese entry for the Best Foreign Language Film at the Venice Film Festival, and nominated for an Oscar, The Insult is a drama that captures the power and consequence of shared words and the emotional distress that can turn an insult into violence. Highlighting the delicate intricacies of prejudice and propaganda, this drama follows tensions between Tony, a Christian Lebanese man, and Yasser, a Palestinian man in Lebanon, when the two have an altercation and a punch that breaks two ribs. In the courtroom, debates arise as people are reminded of the Lebanese Civil War, Palestine, and Israel. At first, both men are so convinced that they are right, that neither hire lawyers and both represent themselves. Watch things unfold as the words that began the conflict are revealed.

Playing at: Toho Cinemas Chanter from Aug. 31
Watch with: Someone you like to discuss things with.
Japanese title:『判決、ふたつの希望』(Hanketsu, futatsu no kibou)

5. Tell Me Lies

In 1967 Peter Brook made a drama about the controversial involvement of America in the Vietnam War based on the Royal Shakespeare Company’s theatrical production, “US.” It was briefly released in the UK and NYC during that time, but has since fallen under the radar after being banned at the then-Cannes Film Festival — until it’s now surfacing again (surely for a good reason).

The plot follows a young couple who sees a magazine photo of a baby that was mutilated by napalm. The film documents London’s varied staged conversations and opinions about the moral implications of the war in a very unique, at times musical, and at other times cinema-verite fashion. The movie poster reads “Does the truth make you nervous?” Watch if you dare.

Playing at: Theater Image Forum Shibuya from Aug. 25. In other regions in Japan: Sendai, Aichi, Osaka and Okinawa.
Watch with: Someone as quirky and as curious to know the truth as you.
Japanese title:『テル・ミー・ライズ』 (Tell me lies)

6. Finding Your Feet

Sandra discovers her husband is having an affair with her best friend after 35 years of marriage. In an effort to forget these unpleasant details, she hightails it to London and seeks out her free-thinking sister, Bif, Sandra’s polar opposite, for a change of pace. A romantic comedy to its core, Sandra is forced to try things she wouldn’t normally try, such as community dance class, and a second shot at romance. She literally “finds her feet” as she more or less gets swept off them in a lovely escapade to Rome where the community dance team is offered a gig after their successful flash-mob goes viral online. Late-life love is possible, but despite being a rom-com, this movie doesn’t forget to remind us of the other realities of what it means to be in the golden years.

Playing at: Cine Switch Ginza and Shinjuku Musashinokan from Aug. 25 and other theaters across Japan (release dates vary depending on the region)
Watch with: Good friends, new friends and your cool sister(s)
Japanese title:『輝ける人生』(Kagayakeru jinsei)

7. Call Me By Your Name

If you haven’t heard of this film yet, you haven’t been paying attention. It’s 1983 in Italy. Cue nostalgia. Elio is introduced to Oliver and the two men cascade into summer with long bike rides, lively discussions, and swimming in lakes. Cue melancholy. This is a coming of age story that carries with it an effortless, tender awareness of what it means to be young, vulnerable, and in love. In a speech that will bring most to tears, Elio’s father (Oliver’s professor) is the role model we all wish we had. Unlike other films where homosexuality is weighted down by the oppression of the world, this film allows for love to have its own life, its own story, its own end.

Playing at: Uplink Shibuya (The coolest indie theater you’ve ever been to), Iidabashi Ginrei Hall (from Sept. 22), Meguro Cinema (from Oct. 27) and Waseda Shochiku (From Nov. 10). Nationwide: Aomori, Saitama, Tochigi, Kochi and Gumma (check website for details and release dates).
Watch with: Friends, lovers, no haters.
Japanese title: 『君の名前で僕を呼んで』(Kimi no namae de boku wo yonde)

8. Carrie Pilby

Carrie is smart. Really smart. But sometimes too unhappy to enjoy it. A bit of a genius misfit in NYC, and struggle-busing rather comically with growing up, Carrie embarks on an adventurous journey to do “normal things.” Her therapist gives her a list of things to do to help her engage with “normal people.” Take care of a pet, go on a date, make friends. Based on a novel, this coming-of-age story gives the audience an interesting look into an interesting girl’s life as she begins to change her own mind about humanity, and people in general. It’s an upbeat, easy to follow comedy that strives for the acceptance of awkwardness. An inspiring relief for those who relate to Carrie, as the amazing actress Bel Powley brings her to life.

Playing at: Shinjuku Piccadilly, Movix Kameari, Movix Akishima, Human Trust Cinema Yurakucho and Shibuya from Oct. 20. Also in theaters in Kanagawa, Chiba, Saitama, Sendai, Sapporo and other cities.
Watch with: People who love to laugh, a friend or coworker that needs to be inspired.
Japanese title:『マイ・プレシャス・リスト』(My precious list)

9. Christopher Robin

Everyone loves Pooh. A family story for those who like to indulge in existential nostalgia will love seeing their favorite bear come back to life. Christopher Robin, played by Ewan McGregor, is all grown up, laden with too many adult responsibilities, and hasn’t been to the Hundred Acre Wood in decades. Pooh, who has watched his world grow foggy and disappear in Christopher Robin’s absence, travels to London in search of him. After they are reunited, the two go on a journey together to try to save the Hundred Acre Wood, all of Pooh’s friends who have faded from existence, and subsequently Christopher Robin’s imagination and joy. A heartwarming, but heart-tugging adventure movie.

Playing at: Toho Cinemas, United Cinema Toyosu, Humax, 109 Cinemas Futakotamagawa, Movix and other theaters across Japan from Sept. 14.
Watch with: Friends, family, your partner, and coworkers you don’t mind crying or having a bit of an existential crisis with.
Japanese title:『プーと大人になった僕』(Pooh to otona ni natta boku)

10. Kamera Wo Tomeru Na! (One Cut Of The Dead)

Zombies. And meta cameras. Kametomu opens with a 37-minute shot of absolute chaos. No cuts. The story follows a team of filmmakers who are making a zombie-apocalypse film in an abandoned military-esque warehouse. Subsequently, a true zombie appears, real violence ensues, and the director keeps the camera rolling. Horror and comedy have teamed up to create a new avenue for the zombie movie; a self-aware film that is conscious not only of itself but also the classics that share its genre. What began as a small indie film with a limited release, Kametomu has spread to all major theatres with its entertaining satire, and its surprisingly lovely dose of character detail. Don’t sleep on it.

Now playing at: Toho Cinemas, Eurospace (Shibuya), 109 Cinemas Futakotamagawa (from Aug 31) and other theaters across Japan.
Watch with: Someone with a strong stomach and a good sense of humor. Also, no need for super nihongo skills.
In Japanese: 『カメラを止めるな！』(Kamera Wo Tomeru Na!)

11. Shoplifters

Known widely as the auteur that pulls on an audience’s heartstrings, Hirokazu Kore-eda strikes again with his newest drama, Shoplifters, which took the Palme d’Or at this year’s Cannes Film Festival. Shoplifters follows a Japanese family that survives on petty crimes. One day, the father and son find a young girl who looks hungry. What begins with one meal turns into a kind of unofficial adoption as she is steadily becoming more and more part of the family. The audience is left struggling with how to define morality when it’s given such a clear picture of crime, and yet a family that can offer so much love and connection, of which its crimes committed are a direct result of the economic crisis the society has placed them in. More conflict and mystery ensues when they find out that the girl’s parents are looking for her.

Now playing at: Toho Cinemas Shibuya, Hibiya, Shinjuku; Shinjuku Piccadilly (From Aug. 24) and other theaters across Japan.
Watch with: Family, friends, your partner, and coworkers. Anyone you don’t mind crying with or discussing life and family with after the credits roll.
In Japanese: 『万引き家族』(Manbiki kazoku)

What’s your favorite on the list? Let us know in the comments!

VR Makes Its Debut And What Else To Look For At This Year’s Short Shorts Film Festival

Jes Kalled — Tue, 12 Jun 2018 10:00:04 +0000

This June marks the 20th anniversary of the Short Shorts Film Festival & Asia, its humble beginnings going back as far as 1999 when it screened six short student films by George Lucas. In step with its pre-millennia ambition to bring the nuance of short films to Japan audiences, SSFF & ASIA is the first film festival in Japan to include VR in its program. So this year, at last, you can see—or rather, experience, VR 360° and VR Interactive short films. Go solo, with friends, or take the kids out to enjoy the sight, sound, and immersive experience of the future’s filmmaking technology.

About Short Shorts Film Festival

SSFF & ASIA is one of the world’s largest international short film festivals, annually screening over 250 films selected from titles submitted by 10,000 contestants and filmmakers from around the world. As a qualifier for the Academy Awards, and simply a place to admire what’s “new,” “old,” and more specifically, “short,” the festival has become a curated place to appreciate the moving image art form in the beauty of its brevity.

“We would like to make the status of ‘short film’ higher and make people recognize ‘the short film’ as being something that is full of possibility,” a spokesman from the festival’s organizing committee told Savvy in an interview.

In an effort to be an “on the edge” film festival, SSFF & ASIA blends the old with the new.

“Short film is now becoming an entertainment content which can fit into our various and unique lifestyles. The short film is also used as an effective medium of telling messages for brands and corporations. In contrast with advertisements, short film also provides cinematic movement which touches people’s hearts.”

Welcoming VR at last

Although Virtual Reality has multiple homes in Tokyo at arcades such as the VR Park in Shibuya, and VR Zone in Shinjuku, and even though Japan is a lead explorer in mixed reality-based endeavors at large, the country wasn’t quick at introducing VR in its film festivals up to now. Other countries have already taken advantage of the new medium in film festivals across the Pacific: In 2012, the first VR works appeared at the Sundance Film Festival in Salt Lake City, Utah, and in 2016 — arguably the year in which VR began to gain real momentum — works arrived at the Cannes Film Festival in short film form.

It took SSFF & ASIA around three years to provide a VR shorts program and “it wasn’t easy” to gather high-quality VR short films from around the world due to lack of content, the representative says. “This is because making VR films is totally different from traditional filmmaking, and there are not enough VR filmmakers yet,” they argue.

But now that the devices used for watching VR have grown and become more accessible, introducing VR has finally become possible and we are so excited! Here are some of the best VR selections playing at Short Shorts 2018.

Sergeant James by Alexandre Perez, France

A VR experience you won’t want to miss this month is Sergeant James, a 360° short by Director Alexandre Perez. It first premiered at Tribeca in 2017, and has since given audiences a unique sci-fi VR experience, where the viewer may or may not be the imagined presence underneath the boy’s bed. Are you there? Are you not? Are you just a part of the young boy’s imagination?

Invasion! by Eric Darnell, USA

From the creator of Madagascar, and the VR Startup, Baobab Studios, comes an animated 360° VR short called Invasion!. A cute story about two aliens who try to take over the world, but who’s goals of world domination are somewhat impeded by adorable bunnies, one of which might be you, the audience. Of the many shorts made for mature audiences, this animation, on the contrary, was made for the whole family. So much so that it is the first VR short film that will be made into a Hollywood feature.

The Future of Music by Greg Barth by Greg Barth, Switzerland

For a trippy, immersive look into how VR can play with sound, space, and time, come through for Greg Barth’s, The Future of Music. “Is all this for real?” The interviewer asks the fake, world-famous composer. Experience an audiovisual short that defies gravity, and embraces the experimentation of giving audience members autonomy in a space where a music director commands it.

Dear Angelica by Oculus, USA

One of the more unique VR films to experience is Emmy-nominated Dear Angelica, a dreamlike short that follows a young girl as she remembers her mother, an actress, and the memories of her that are captured on VHS. This VR short was uniquely illustrated with a “quill tool” which lets the makers draw 3D images directly inside VR. Paving the way forward with storytelling in this new tech field, Dear Angelica, has two female lead roles, and was illustrated by a woman. A beautiful start to a beautiful new way to tell stories. Especially in the technology and film world. “It should feel like a lucid dream in that way that things appear and disappear in a nearly effortless way,” says writer/director Saschka Unseld in Wired.

Other highlights

In an effort to be an “on the edge” film festival, SSFF & ASIA blends the old with the new. A unique part of the festival is not only the ability to see into the future of a new storytelling medium with VR, but also facilitating the viewing of classic short films which can be found in the festival’s Anniversary Program. Directors such as Nobuhiko Obayashi, Charlie Chaplin, George Lucas, and other award-winning creators, are featured in this selection. Pictured below is director Nobuhiko Obayashi’s hard-to-find-on-the-internet 14-minute experimental short with the incredibly long title Complexe=binetsuo hari aruiwa kanashii jozetsu warutsuni notte souretsuno sanpomichi. This may be something you cine-files won’t want to pass up, as it seems to have almost zero Google footprint.

For truly devoted film fans, you’d also want to attend the Academy Awards Program & Canne Program, which provides some traditional storytelling shorts that will have you leaving the theatre satisfied — as if you had watched a long, feature film. This includes the Oscar-nominated short, Watu Wote: All of Us by Katja Benrath, which is based on the events of a December 2015 Mandera bus attack by militant group Al-Shabaab in Kenya. The bus passengers, including both Muslims and Christians, display solidarity with one another despite the rising tensions between them in the country.

Also new to SSFF & ASIA this year is the Nonfiction Program. The Human Face is a documentary that follows Kazuhiro Tsuji, the winner of the 90th (2018) Academy Awards Makeup & Hairstyling award.

Special programs in the lineup also include a Shibuya Diversity Program, which presents an award to a film that especially exemplifies diversity and inclusion, traits that Shibuya wants to embrace. Seen below is Sacred Hair, a 13-minute short based in Montreal about an encounter between a young, ill boy, and a Muslim woman.

In the waking moments of VR, a medium that does not yet have a clear foundation, we might say that the short film, and festivals like SSFF & ASIA are in for a whole new level of the concept of being moved. As Jessica Brillhart said in an interview with Motherboard Vice, “It’s more, how do we craft an entirety of a world to be able to harness the agency of the viewer being able to look wherever they want to look,” Brillhart said. “To see it as world-building, instead of trying to put things in a box.”

Happy Viewing! Happy Shorts! And Happy VR to you!

The Short Shorts Film Festival & Asia 2018 runs until Sun, June 24, 2018, in various venues in Tokyo. For details on tickets, schedule and venues, see the official Short Shorts 2018 website here.

Moving On: Slightly Unemployed, Slightly Failing, And Definitely Broke

Jes Kalled — Wed, 20 Sep 2017 03:25:25 +0000

It’s been about four months since moving to Tokyo and so much has happened. And so much hasn’t. I have a job, kind of. It’s a dream job, kind of. As of today, I have about ¥10,000 to my name. I don’t know how exactly I’m going to pay my rent, health insurance, phone bill, last year’s residence taxes, and still eat food every day this month, but I’m going to make it work. I think. (Shout out to my friend who sent me a broke-peoples’-starter-kit care package).

Slightly Unemployed

There’s an art to explaining you’re broke, and/or following your dreams. And I have not mastered that art yet. At all. Some of the scariest questions (followed by my simple answers) a person can ask me at the moment are “Why are you here?” (Because Tokyo is rad), “What do you do?” (I’m following my dreams), “Want to go out tonight?,” (I’m sorry I can’t afford that right now) and “Are you an English teacher?” (Yes, kind of). However, the reality of answering these questions is usually me fumbling around for an explanation to what I perceive to be a very immediately complicated existential dilemma—eventually blurting out, “I’m slightly unemployed.”

[S]lightly unemployed” is a fancy way of saying you’re trying to make things work.

How can one be slightly unemployed? Well, I guess you could say “slightly unemployed” is a fancy way of saying you’re trying to make things work. Nothing is stable right now. Dream-wise, or bills-wise. My situation is in constant flux. I’ve found some awesome opportunities only to lose them—had to scramble together some one-day-only jobs to make up for sudden losses. Sometimes I work at a cute donut-cocktail truck stand in Shibuya. Sometimes I work as a reporter/camerawoman/writer/filmmaker, and as of very, very recently I’m teaching English part time to adults as well. I don’t know when my days off will be most of the time, or if I’ll be let go or downsized the next day in some cases. My schedule is iffy, kind of weird, but mostly exciting because this is just the beginning, folks—at least that’s what I keep telling myself.

Slightly Failing

Symptoms of failing may include confidently explaining to your co-workers in Japanese that you’ve erased an entire video project that you were editing for weeks. Of course, you haven’t erased the entire project, you’re just poor at Japanese sometimes, and it takes some shocked faces and some verb readjustment to realize your mistake and assure them that you didn’t delete it—instead it’s been completed. That’s all you meant to say.

The real failure comes in when your boss hands you a microphone so that you can interview foreign ambassadors, dignitaries, and congressmen you just learned the names of minutes before…in Japanese. Hashtag unqualified. It’s in these moments that I look to the philosophers who said “fake it till you make it” and I pretend that’s a real thing that philosophers said.

The failures come in all shapes and sizes. And the weird thing is that your peers don’t see the mistakes you make. They don’t see you struggle with language barriers, botch a dance audition or trip on a very public sidewalk. Instead, your friends see the photos of your mini successes on Facebook or Instagram. However, it’s between the clicks and the posts that other, not so graceful things are happening: the club you’re in with your friends who covered your entry suddenly becomes overwhelming, the music you were breaking free to is suddenly too loud, and you’re crying in the bathroom because a guy you like is with someone else, or the job you got is no longer yours, or the money you saved is for yet another bill, or the thing you just accidentally stress-ate is actually made of seafood—which you’re slightly allergic to.

But let’s rewind a bit to when things were looking brighter. One month into my new life in Tokyo I had applied to a handful of jobs. To my amazement, things began falling into place rather quickly. I had found two part time film-related positions. Stable ones. I was elated. It was perfect.

…Too perfect.

The next month, I went “home” to Sendai for my friends’ wedding. While there, I stayed with a friend who insisted on watching horror films every night before bed. One of those nights I received a FaceTime call from my newest employer; she informed me that she was restarting her business and that she would no longer be able to employ me or anybody else who currently works there. She was very sorry, and explained that once she got her startup going she hoped to re-employ us in September…or October…or December. The horror movie was paused; my friend sat next to me, out of sight and listening to our conversation—nodding at my responses, and trying to give me comforting, reassuring glances. When the FaceTime call ended, I wasn’t sure how I felt.

“Did I just get fired?”

“Yes,” my friend confirmed.

“I’m so sorry,” she said.

We pressed play and finished watching the horror film.

The Hustle

I returned to Tokyo in a kind of daze. I looked out the window of the shinkansen and felt incredibly guilty for taking it. All I could think about was that I had to find another job to make up for the three days of work a week that I had just lost, and I needed to find a solution as soon as possible.

When I got back to Tokyo I went into overdrive mode. This meant not limiting myself to film or art jobs; I applied for various English teaching and waitressing positions too. But I wasn’t always on the top of my game. When you wake up on a Tuesday morning and technically have nowhere to be, your friend, Netflix, and your bestie, convenient store donut, always want to hang out. That said, I still applied to what felt like a million jobs.

Fast forward to now. In total, I’ve applied to about twenty-seven—ish jobs. Some I got, most I didn’t. One look at my current schedule and you can understand that the search isn’t over. I have yet to reach a kind of stable balance. It’s a work in progress. Weirdly enough, I’m happier here in this uncertain, low-income, sweaty-handed hustle than I would be in a place that limits my creativity and need to stretch my arms and reach—or sometimes flex should that opportunity arise.

Slightly Ready

So this is where I am right now. Slightly unemployed, and still slightly failing. Sorry, Netflix. Sorry, convenience store donut. You’re looking pretty tempting right now (really tempting) but we’re going to have to postpone our usual chill sessions until I figure this out.

I may be broke, but I’m in Tokyo. And contrary to some of my nightmares as an inaka-born child, the buildings haven’t swallowed me yet, and I’m no more lost than I was a few months ago when I first arrived. I anticipate more mistakes and more failures, but I’ll still keep moving forward.

Now, it’s time for another seafood-free PB & J.

“Moving On” is Savvy Tokyo’s personal stories series about taking new challenges, leaving the past behind and embracing the future — even when nothing makes sense and the road ahead is blurry. Are you new to Japan? Did you leave behind something to move here? Have you closed a door to open a new one recently? We’d like to hear your story. Contact us at editorial@gplusmedia.com

Moving On: What It’s Like To Drop Everything And Start Fresh In Tokyo

Jes Kalled — Fri, 16 Jun 2017 05:45:51 +0000

In early April I left my home in Sendai and moved to Tokyo. After three and a half years of teaching English up north, I decided it was time to quit my job and attempt to pursue my dreams. Yes, I know this sounds corny. But the reality of this decision is much more than corny. It’s exciting, equally scary, and it’s finally happening.

My goal here, in the big city, is simple. I’ll be searching for ways to support myself by doing the things I most dearly love: filmmaking, podcasting, writing, illustrating. And I’ll be documenting the whole experience one mistake, and one small success at a time.

Three Years Of “Should I Stay Or Should I Go”

Year One of Staying: When I first arrived in Japan after college, I had no plan. I was 22, heartbroken, and happy to have a job. Coming to Japan was a leftover arrangement that was made before a relationship ended, but I came here anyway hoping that I could improvise and make it my own. Despite the overtime hours of my first teaching position, I was able to carve out some time to work on creative projects: short films, zines, short stories. But I wasn’t sure how to turn those things into something that would pay for my utilities, rent, and my late night conbini trips. Back then the most influential part of my life were the new friendships I had made since moving to Sendai and I couldn’t imagine leaving them behind and returning to America. So, I stayed.

Year Two of Staying: Overworked and tired, I began looking for a different teaching position. I was under the impression it was impossible for a foreigner in Japan to do anything else except teach English. This year was perhaps one of my hardest. I spent the first six months in my friend’s vacated, internet-less apartment. Unemployed and cold because the heater didn’t work, I spent almost every day at Starbucks where hot cocoa, warmth, and the wifi needed to look for a job were guaranteed. Finally, after three months, I was able to find one. So, once again, I stayed.

Year Three of Staying: The new job afforded me more time to work on my creative projects, and with it came some great coworkers and lovely students that I won’t forget. My new company even helped me find a new apartment, one complete with internet and a working heater. I would spend two years and three months there, enjoying friendships, living a stable life, doing a bunch of things. Yet, all the while I was feeling a little stuck.

Unemployed and cold because the heater didn’t work, I spent almost every day at Starbucks where hot cocoa, warmth, and the wifi needed to look for a job were guaranteed.

It was around these particular times that I decided to start a podcast called Aliens and Moonbeams, a title worthy of the whimsy and mystery of being foreign in Japan, and other places too. It was through making this podcast that I’ve been able to look back at my experiences of the last three and a half years living abroad. After watching my country from the outside, having about a million awkward encounters and discoveries — after saying goodbye and hello to old loves, new loves; in-between missing and not missing home — after all that, I finally knew I needed to share these stories. Perhaps I also needed to find a new place to do so.

And that’s when I realized it was time to go.

Time To Go

Months later I was sitting in my empty room, walls bare and floors cleaner than they ever had been, waiting for the landlord to ring the doorbell. I went over my “how to move” checklist once again, feeling a sense of accomplishment for having checked everything on it. I had done all the standards: Hand in resignation letter, hug coworkers; contact utility companies to cancel contracts; throw away semi-moldy mattress; sell stuff (that wasn’t moldy); send things to new apartment; pack; clean; give clothes/shoes away to a second hand store (or to a friend who likes your sneakers); send unnecessary things home. I had also done the more personal ones: Ride bicycle one last time. Make sure skateboard goes with you to Tokyo. Maintain your sanity. The list, in the background of an empty room, read more like a how to say goodbye to a place you love letter than a practical list.

Final Destination (For Now): Tokyo

I’ve been living in Tokyo for just about two months now, and I’ve already come face to face with the struggles of somebody trying to “make it” in a place they barely know. The buildings are taller, and the threat of being swallowed up by a crowd of people is almost always imminent. The faces that pass by are unrecognizable, and I often get lost somewhere among the magnitude of exits that make up most train stations. The lady at the Seiyu who gently encouraged me to use my excess change, and the children who recognized me and yelled my name from cars that are passing by in Sendai, are nowhere to be found. My small apartment in Sendai is now inhabited by someone new, and I’m confined to an even smaller share house bedroom with narrow walls that I can almost touch with both hands on either side. But the light pours in from the windows in the morning, and at night I can see the city lights from my balcony.

For the first time in a while, this beginning—as difficult as it is—feels like my own. Coming to Tokyo isn’t a leftover plan, and I’m not here by accident. When I left Sendai I expected to be facing the uncertainty of joblessness and doubt. That much holds true. But what I wasn’t prepared for, was the feeling that I was doing exactly the right thing, at exactly the right time.

For the first time in a while, this beginning—as difficult as it is—feels like my own.

Every struggle, every new encounter, every party, every mistake I make in the big city—I’ll be there with my camera or my tape recorder, documenting the amazing ups, downs, and diagonals of what it’s like to live in Japan. As every episode of my podcast will assure you, “Being an alien can be a human thing too.” And new beginnings are about as alien and as human as they can get.

“Moving On” is Savvy Tokyo’s new personal stories series about taking new challenges, leaving the past behind and embracing the future — even when nothing makes sense and the road ahead is blurry. Are you new to Japan? Did you leave behind something to move here? Have you closed a door to open a new one recently? We’d like to hear your story.

Contact us at editorial@gplusmedia.com