In a city as busy, complex and constantly evolving as Tokyo, time spent here is often focused on exploring its inspiring contemporary culture and amazing cuisine. However, if you’re looking to shed some light on Japan’s past, Tokyo’s historical museums may be the place for you.

This season, discover one of the many immersive replicas of traditional Tokyoite homes and workplaces, learn about fascinating Samurai culture or gaze at traditional woodcuts in some of the city’s most interesting historic venues. Here’s a roundup of our favorites!

1. Ota Memorial Museum of Art

A visit to the compact tatami rooms of the Ota Memorial Museum of Art is a must for those interested in ukiyo-e, the traditional Japanese woodblock printmaking that flourished during the Edo period. The Edo era lasted from 1603 to 1868, a period of significant economic prosperity and cultural growth across Japan, particularly in the arts. The museum is dedicated to the artist Ota Seizo, who collected a staggering 12,000 block prints during his lifetime. The prints on display are rotated every two to three months and show around 200 works at a time, so there’s always something interesting on view. The works are well curated, with English labels, and the museum’s central location—a stone’s throw from the colorful streets of Harajuku—adds an interesting contrast to the traditional art on display.

• Price: Varies (See current exhibition for details)
• Open: 10:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Closed on Mondays.
• Where: 1-10-10 Jingumae, Shibuya, Tokyo
• Closest Station: Meiji-Jingumae
• Website: http://www.ukiyoe-ota-muse.jp/eng

2. Shitamachi Museum

For those seeking a little nostalgia, the Shitamachi Museum offers a glimpse of everyday life in Tokyo between the Meiji Restoration in 1868 and the Great Earthquake of 1923. The Meiji Period saw Japanese society transition from a feudal to the more modern identity it enjoys today. Comprising a number of rooms, including a sweet shop, a coppersmith’s workshop, and rows of tenement house apartments, this charming museum explores working and living conditions during this period. Visitors are encouraged to get interactive—children can play with traditional toys, while adults can view old photographs and rummage through the display’s cupboards and drawers. Small but perfectly formed, the Shitamachi Museum is a great place to incorporate into a day trip to Ueno. Ask for an English-speaking guide if needed.

• Price: ¥300 (Adults), ¥100 (Child/Student)
• Open: 9:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Closed on Mondays.
• Where: 2-1 Ueno-koen, Taito, Tokyo
• Closest Station: Ueno
• Website: https://www.taitogeibun.net/shitamachi/

3. Samurai Museum

Most people have heard of the Samurai culture through Hollywood blockbusters and pop culture, but many may not be fully familiar with its symbolic resonance in Japanese culture and the powerful history it evokes. For over 700 years, from the Kamakura (1185) to the much later Edo period, the Samurai dominated Japanese society both militarily and symbolically. The recently opened Samurai Museum in Shinjuku—a painstakingly curated, carefully designed collection featuring an impressive ensemble of costumes, swords and historical relics—helps visitors discover this fascinating history. With plenty of fun activities, including having your photograph taken in full samurai attire or witnessing a traditional sword battle, this is a great place to visit with the whole family.

• Price: ¥1,900 (Adults), ¥800 (Under 12), Free (Under 3).
• Open: 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.
• Where: 5−17−13 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
• Closest Station: Shinjuku
• Website: https://www.samuraimuseum.jp/en/

4. Edo-Tokyo Museum

If you have friends visiting or are new to Japan, a visit to the Edo-Tokyo Museum is a great way to understand more about this important period. The museum tracks Tokyo’s development from a medieval town to an urban metropolis via its many artifacts and large-scale models of streets and bridges. The museum gives visitors a comprehensive overview of this 400-year pre-earthquake period through both its permanent collection and special exhibitions throughout the year, alongside a vibrant lecture and workshop program. Its impressive ornate kimono collection is also pretty special, and the free English audio guides will help non-Japanese speakers navigate the displays.

• Price: TBA
• Open: TBA
• Where: 1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku, Tokyo.
• Closest Station: Ryogoku
• Website: https://www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/en/

5. Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum

Based in Koganei city in Western Tokyo is the Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum, a vast open-air historical “theme park” dedicated to exhibiting old historical buildings of cultural value that cannot be preserved in their original locations. Many of those buildings were lost to fires and air raids since the Edo period but were reconstructed at this location in their original shapes. Here, you can see old private residences, public baths, various shops and recreation facilities, including a bar and a tea room, which show how people have lived in Japan since the Edo period. Visitors can freely explore the facilities’ interiors, where time appears to have stopped centuries ago.

• Price: ¥400 (Adults), ¥320 (College), ¥200 (Students). Free for primary school and younger children
• Open: 9:30 a.m.- 5:30 p.m. (April-Sept), 9:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. (October-March). Closed on Mondays.
• Where: 3-7-1 Sakuracho, Koganei-shi, Tokyo (inside Koganei Park)
• Closest Station: Hana-Koganei
• Website: http://www.tatemonoen.jp/english/

6. Fukagawa Edo Museum

Travel east towards Koto Ward and you’ll come across this hidden gem of a museum. The Fukagawa Edo Museum houses a replica of the neighborhood from 1840 (around the end of the Tokugawa Period). Complete with seasonal sound effects and decorations, walk through the town and feel like you have traveled back in time. There are volunteer guides on the premises who are more than happy to guide you through the different displays. Afterwards, check out the hall that goes into more detail about the Fukugawa neighborhood, complete with statistics and graphs.

• Price: ¥400 (Adults), ¥50 (primary school children and below)
• Open: 9:30 a.m. – 5 p.m. Closed on Mondays
• Where: 1-3-28 Shirakawa, Koto, Tokyo
• Closest Station: Kiyosumi-shirakawa
• Website: https://www.kcf.or.jp/fukagawa/

7. Tokiwaso Manga Museum

Tokiwaso was once an iconic two-storey apartment building that housed many talented manga (comic) artists, including Tezuka Osamu (creator of Astro Boy) and Terada Hiroo (creator of Sebango 0). It became the spot for up-and-coming artists to live out their mangaka (comic artist) dreams and a place for friendly rivalry. Though the original building was demolished, fans came together and reconstructed it as a manga museum. Today, it’s a place to learn more about manga and anime culture through the lens of these famous artists.

• Open: 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. Closed on Mondays
• Where: 3-9-22 Minaminagasaki, Toshima, Tokyo
• Closest Station: Ochiai-minami-nagasaki
• Website: https://www.tokiwasomm.jp/

8. Tokyo Waterworks Historical Museum

Learn about Tokyo’s rich history through its waterways at this free museum. Tracing back to the city’s founding (then called Edo) under Tokugawa Ieyasu, learn about the ancient techniques used to purify water and redirect it to the city’s citizens. Follow along and learn about how the city’s waterworks have changed and improved through the 17th century to the present day. It’s a unique take on the city’s history, and one that continues to improve the lives of Tokyo’s population even today.

• Price: Free
• Open: 9:30 a.m. – 5 p.m.
• Where: 2-7-1 Hongo, Bunkyo City, Tokyo
• Closest Station: Suidobashi
• Website: https://www.suidorekishi.jp/

9. Shinjuku Historical Museum

At the Shinjuku Historical Museum, get a deeper understanding of how the area was before all the flashing lights and skyscrapers. The permanent exhibit features artifacts and trivia about key literary figures associated with the city ward, such as Natsume Soseki (author of Kokoro and I Am a Cat). Browse through each era from the Jomon Period to the Edo Period and Meiji Period sections. Check out the life-sized replica buildings of a former pasty shop and even a streetcar.

• Price: ¥300 (Adults), ¥100 (primary school children and below).
• Open: 9:30 a.m. – 5:30 p.m.
• Where: 12-16 Yotsuya Saneicho, Shinjuku City, Tokyo
• Closest Station: Yotsuya
• Website: https://www.regasu-shinjuku.or.jp/rekihaku/

10. Japanese Sword Museum

This small but well-curated museum highlights the art of Japanese swordmaking. Beyond weapons, Japanese swords have been used as symbols of faith, authority and art. Each sword represents the samurai spirit. The shape and curvature of each sword sheds light on the needs, trends and the context of that era. Made to be unbreakable, unbendable and extremely sharp, walk away from your museum visit with a newfound appreciation for the craftsmanship and generations of history that go behind making one of these most unmistakable symbols of Japanese culture.

• Price: ¥1,000 (Adults), ¥500 (High school and college students), Free (primary school children and below).
• Open: 9:30 a.m. – 5 p.m. Closed on Mondays
• Where: 1-12-9 Yokoami, Sumida City, Tokyo
• Closest Station: Ryogoku
• Website: https://www.touken.or.jp/museum/

For a guide to Tokyo’s most unusual museums, see this article.

What’s your favorite museum in Tokyo? Share with us in the comments! 

As a kid, I never really liked cats. Then, one day in Japan, a black cat walked into my life and I had to reevaluate my decision. It was just a stray, but a persistent one at that. My husband and I called her Mikka-chan. She became a constant companion during our year-long sojourn in Tottori Prefecture. It was Mikka-chan who sparked my curiosity about what Japanese books have to say about cats.

Indeed, today, if you go to any bookstore, you’re bound to find more than a few titles featuring a cute kitty on the cover. These titles perform well not only in Japan but overseas. Book lovers, especially feline enthusiasts, gravitate to these quirky, sweet and sometimes heartbreaking stories.

Japan’s Love Affair With Cats

© Photo by iStock: ES3N

Japan, of course, has a special affinity for cats. Have you ever noticed that there are often stray cats but rarely stray dogs out and about? Locals allow these feral creatures to roam the streets freely. In addition, many Japanese households typically have a fluffy feline or two lounging in the window or sleeping under the kotatsu (heated table) during winter.

Japanese culture loves cats. Why? Because they’re cuddly, independent and mysterious, of course! There are cat islands, cat cafes, cat station masters, Kitty Chan/Hello Kitty, even a delivery company named after a black cat.

In Japan, authors also have a fondness for cats. From the classics to modern tales, these 10 Japanese books about cats are the perfect accompaniment to any dreary day. So pull up a chair! Let’s get the cat out of the bag and learn more about these delightful Japanese cat books!

1. A Cat, A Man And Two Women

In the title novella of this collection, Lily the cat gets embroiled in a “custody battle” between a man and his two wives (one divorced and his new bride). Through this story, Tanizaki shows the pettiness and manipulative nature of humans in spurned relationships.

• Author: Junichiro Tanizaki
• Where To Buy: Amazon.jp (¥2,405)

2. We’ll Prescribe You A Cat

What if you could go to a clinic in Japan where the only prescription is cat therapy? In a perfect world, this could happen, right? This collection of five short stories about the healing nature of cat/human relationships is bound to soften anyone’s heart towards felines.

• Author: Syou Ishida
• Where To Buy: Amazon.jp (¥4,264)

3. She And Her Cat

If you’re a fan of Your Name and Weathering with You, then you may enjoy She and Her Cat. Originally an anime short by Makoto Shinkai, this collection is written by screenwriter Naruki Nagakawa. The four interconnected short stories about women and their cats are a purrfect choice for the female cat lover.

• Authors: Makoto Shinkai and Naruki Nagakawa
• Where To Buy: Amazon.jp (¥3,207)

4. The Traveling Cat Chronicles

Similar to the Japanese classic I Am A Cat, the cat narrator here is Nana, a feisty stray cat who ends up in the life of Satoru. This tear-jerker follows Satoru as he travels around Japan to convince his friends and family to adopt his favorite cat.

• Author: Hiro Arikawa
• Where To Buy: Amazon.jp (¥2,426)

5. The Cat Who Saved Books

Hikikomori (social recluse) Rintaro takes over his grandfather’s rare bookstore when a magical talking cat, Tiger, enters his life. Tiger encourages Rintaro to go on labyrinthine “quests” to rescue books that are not being appreciated by their owners. These quests also help him cope with his grandfather’s death.

• Author: Sosuke Natsukawa
• Where To Buy: Amazon.jp (¥2,390)

6. If Cats Disappeared From The World

In this story, the protagonist discovers he has a terminal illness. Soon afterward, he meets the devil, who offers a bargain: give up something from his life to extend it. What challenges him the most is whether to give up his beloved pet cat, Cabbage.

• Author: Genki Kawamura
• Where To Buy: Amazon.jp (¥2,556)

7. The Blanket Cats

One pet shop. Seven cats. Seven stories. In each story, the pet shop allows one customer to rent one of its seven special cats for a period of three days. Similar to the premise in We’ll Prescribe You a Cat, this collection celebrates the healing properties of owning a cat (for a while).

• Author: Kiyoshi Shigematsu
• Where To Buy: Amazon.jp (¥2,784)

8. Mornings With My Cat Mii

One evening, author and poet Mayumi Inaba rescues a pitiful kitten along the Tamagawa riverbank in Tokyo. Mii becomes her constant companion over the next two decades. This memoir documents the author’s fond relationship with Mii.

• Author: Mayumi Inaba
• Where To Buy: Amazon.jp (¥2,751)

9. The Guest Cat

A couple in their 30s living in Tokyo gradually drifts apart until a cat literally walks into their lives. Chibi gives the husband and wife a new lease on their crumbling relationship, drawing them out of their humdrum lives.

• Author: Takahashi Hiraide
• Where To Buy: Amazon.jp (¥2,428)

10. I Am A Cat

An alley cat is rescued from starvation by a middle-class family. Soon, he finds himself critiquing the host of strange humans he meets and the foolish social expectations of the Meiji era in which he now lives. The cat’s sassy narrative voice makes this a timeless Japanese classic.

• Author: Natsume Soseki
• Where To Buy: Amazon.jp (¥2,371)

Bonus: Japanese Books For Kids That Love Cats

11ぴきのねこ (Juichipiki No Neko)

My kindergarten-aged sons absolutely love this classic series. The stories revolve around a band of cats who are always hungry. You’ll often find them scheming to eat any new creature they meet. Sometimes, they succeed. Sometimes, they don’t. The illustrations are simple yet hilarious.

• Author: Noboru Baba
• Where To Buy: Amazon.jp (¥1,320)

こねこねねこの ねこピッツァ (Kone Kone Neko No Neko Pizza)

Talk about a title tongue twister! This children’s book is apparently very popular with the younger generation because of its seven quirky cat characters, wordplay and songs available by QR code embedded in the text.

• Author: Minako Kusaka
• Where To Buy: Amazon.jp (¥1,650)

100万回生きたねこ (Hyaku Mankai Ikita Neko)

This 1977 classic is not your ordinary children’s book. Here, we meet a seemingly immortal cat. He lives and dies several times, meeting several people along the way. What follows is a deeply profound story about loss and love. If you like the movie A Dog’s Purpose, then this kitty tale is probably right up your alley, too.

• Author: Yoko Sano
• Where To Buy: Amazon.jp (¥1,650)

Bookmark this article for your TBR (To Be Read) list. Do you have any Japanese books about cats that you recommend?

As the year winds down, many people in Japan are busy with bonenkai (end-of-the-year parties); sending out nengajo (Japanese New Year postcards); preparing for the big clean (osouji) and snatching up leftover fukubukuro (lucky bags). While the New Year holidays may seem like an adult affair, there are plenty of traditional New Year games in Japan that families can enjoy together.

Karuta

© Photo by iStock: gyro

As one of the most iconic traditional New Year games, karuta traces its long history to kai-awase, a poetry-matching game played by Heian-period nobility using shells, as well as to European-style playing cards introduced to Japan in the 16th century. The primary goal of karuta is to correctly recognize and grab the appropriate matching card before your opponent does.

The most popular game is Hyakunin Isshu Karuta, which showcases 100 classic Japanese poems. For more details on how to play karuta, check out this beginner’s primer. A game for all ages, karuta is an excellent game to hone reflexes, reading and listening skills all in one!

Kendama

© Photo by iStock: grinvalds

One game that has experienced a resurgence in popularity in Japan and worldwide is kendama. Typically made of wood, this ball-and-cup type toy consists of a ken (meaning sword or the handle), dama (ball) and a length of string. Kendama’s appeal lies in its simple construction and immense versatility. Thousands of tricks can be performed with experts mastering around 30,000 different combinations!

You simply swing the ball and catch it between the three different “cups” along the handle. You can also spike it on the end. It’s a great game for improving hand-eye coordination and getting some exercise for energetic little ones.

Fukuwarai

© Photo by iStock: kohei_hara

Similar to the American game, Pin the Tail on the Donkey, fukuwarai dates back to the Edo period. It is equally fun and simple. First, players put on blindfolds. Then they try to place facial feature cutouts—eyes, nose, mouth, eyebrows and more—onto a blank face laid out on a table. Traditional face templates include okame, a woman with enormous cheeks believed to bring good luck, and hyottoko, a man with a comically spout-shaped mouth.

This traditional New Year game is typically played in teams. Teammates help by shouting out directions, but they can also mislead their teammates to create hilarious faces. Fukuwarai translates to “lucky laugh” since laughter is supposed to bring you good fortune. Secure some good luck during the holidays as you laugh yourselves into next year!

Hanetsuki

© Photo by iStock: Yoshisako Tsubasa

Resembling badminton without a net, hanetsuki is played with one or two players. You’ll need a wooden paddle called a hagoita and a shuttlecock-like object known as a hane. Hanetsuki has its origins in a Shinto ritual that dates back to the Nara period. It was once believed to be an activity that blessed girls with good health.

In one version of the game, a player tries to keep the hane in the air as long as possible. Another feature is a match between two players, with rules similar to those of badminton. Although the game has declined in popularity, hagoita are still sold around the New Year as collectibles. Grab a pair and go head-to-head this holiday season.

Ohajiki

© Photo by iStock: hanapon1002

Similar to marbles, ohajiki are typically colorful pieces of china, glass or plastic that have been flattened into round discs. Games using ohajiki were traditionally popular among girls during the Edo period as a means of passing the time.

Two players place their ohajiki on the floor in front of them and take turns flipping their pieces. If a player lands their piece on their opponent’s, they get to keep it and win a point. The game continues until all the pieces are collected and the player with the most pieces wins.

Takoage

© Photo by iStock: TAGSTOCK1

As with many traditional New Year games covered in this article, takoage (kite flying) was initially done by elite classes. As well as for religious purposes. However, its popularity grew among ordinary people around the 1600s. As a result, the shogunate issued a ban on kite flying. He feared they would hit the upper class, making trips to the capital. The activity was permitted only on New Year’s Day. As there would be little travel to and from Edo (Tokyo) during the holidays.

Takoage was believed to promote good health through physical activity. It also had the perceived benefit of catching sunlight on your face while looking up at the sky. Parents with newborn boys often flew kites during the holiday as a ritual for ensuring their good health too. These days, kites are readily available in all shapes, sizes and designs. Find your own and take to the skies this New Year!

Origami

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The Japanese art of paper folding is not typically associated with the Japanese New Year. However, its thematic versatility means that there are plenty of holiday-related projects for the family to embark on. Try making these New Year items with origami:

• Kadomatsu: One of the most visible examples of New Year decor.
• The fifth creature of the Chinese zodiac: For the upcoming year of the Dragon
• Ema (thick pine cards for writing wishes at shrines): decorate the home with hopes for the coming year.

Are there any traditional New Year games or activities that you enjoy doing with your little ones? Please leave us some suggestions in the comments below!

Like many countries around the world, Japan concludes the year with Christmas and New Year’s celebrations. But, while you’re doing your Christmas shopping and looking for the perfect nengajo (new year’s greeting card), be on the lookout for something uniquely Japanese: fukubukuro.

Coming from the Japanese words for luck (fuku) and bag (bukuro), fukubukuro quite literally means “lucky bag”. Lucky bags are sold by a wide variety of retailers in Japan, come at various price points and always contain goods at a discounted rate.

While some stores now display the contents of a fukubukuro prior to purchase, others maintain tradition and obscure the merchandise. In these cases, customers will have to rely on luck and hope that they get the jacket or limited-edition figurine they were hoping for.

Keep reading for an overview of lucky bags and get ready to hunt for fukubukuro!

The History Of Fukubukuro

© Photo by iStock: winhorse

While the origins of fukubukuro are as mysterious as their contents, kimono retailers seem to be at the heart of the leading theories. During the Edo period, kimono shops in the capital began to offer unsold fabrics at reduced prices during the winter, when sales traditionally declined. Like modern fukubukuro, customers didn’t know the exact pieces of cloth they were purchasing.

The predecessor of the Mitsukoshi department store, Nihonbashi’s Ichigoya, was one of the first shops to offer fukubukuro to eager customers looking for bargains. The practice quickly gained popularity and other kimono retailers followed suit.

As mass consumer culture developed at the turn of the 20th century, department stores such as Ginza Matsuya, Mitsukoshi and Matsuzakaya adapted the old practice. In both practice and name, the modern fukubukuro was born around 1900. They contained a wide variety of leftover goods at the end of the year. In Japan’s period of economic prosperity during the 1980s, lucky bags became especially popular as people had more disposable income.

When & Where To Buy The Lucky Bags

© Photo by Pixta: Fast&Slow

Typically, you can purchase a lucky bag starting from January 2, when stores reopen after New Year’s Day. However, in recent years, some stores have begun offering them in December, allowing customers to make reservations or purchase them online.

Fukubukuro are available in almost every kind of shop, from your local convenience store to luxury department stores. Most retailers will advertise in advance the types they will offer.

How Much Are Fukubukuro?

Lucky bags typically cost a few thousand yen (around ¥3,000 to ¥10,000), but depending on the brand and contents, they can range up to and over ¥50,000 as well. Whatever the price, the main point of the fukubukuro is that you’re sure to get a bag full of contents worth more than the retail price.

Price Range Examples:

• ¥3,000 to ¥4,000: The standard price for supermarket food and convenience store lucky bags.
• ¥6,000 to ¥9,000: The standard price range for popular brands, anywhere from fashion to miscellaneous goods.
• ¥10,000 and above: Common for brand-name items, high-end cosmetics and expensive food sets.

Types Of Fukubukuro

© Photo by Pixta: yamasan

There are as many types of lucky bags as there are store types in Japan, which is to say a lot! Many of the most popular ones, however, are related to food and apparel.

Food

The category of food lucky bags is the most expansive and arguably the most popular. If you want a selection of overseas items, you can purchase fukubukuro from import stores, like Kaldi and Kinokuniya. They are also available from many bakeries and sweets retailers at varying price points.

Restaurant chains, ranging from famiresu (family restaurants) and kaiten sushi (conveyor belt sushi) to yakiniku and ramen, offer bags that include a combination of original goods and discount tickets. Most cafe chains, such as Tully’s and Starbucks Japan, arrange their lucky bags similarly, featuring drink tickets and branded items.

Finally, if you want food or drink items directly from producers, such as tea store Lupicia or coffee maker UCC, lucky bags are a great way to buy at a discount.

Home Goods

Another popular fukubukuro type is interior. In this category, you can expect to find a mix of discounted tickets for the store and popular miscellaneous items. Home goods brands, like Bruno, are an excellent choice if you’re moving out or moving to a new home.

Clothes (Kids & Adults)

Clothes lucky bags are quite sought-after, but they do come with a caveat that you can rarely choose the color, size or fit of items. But, if you can be flexible, fukubukuro offer very good prices on slightly upscale brands that rarely post sale prices.

Accessories

Accessories bags are fun if you are not particular about color, type and fit. They can be a useful bag for anyone looking to purchase a fukubukuro as a gift.

Pregnancy & Baby Goods

Stores specializing in baby goods, such as Akachan Honpo, offer lucky bags containing a variety of valuable items for parents with a new baby or toddler, including socks and bodysuits.

Conbini

Convenience stores, such as Family Mart and 7-Eleven, offer lucky bags that combine original goods and coupons for use in their stores nationwide.

Department Stores

At department stores like Mitsukoshi, you can order a fukubukuro for a variety of high-end brands they carry, ranging from food to clothing to accessories. Remember to preorder early for the popular ones and prepare to line up to receive your goods.

Popular Fukubukuro in Japan

© Photo by Pixta: naomono

Below is a sample of popular lucky bags across the categories discussed above. 

Food 

• Kaldi Coffee Farm
• Kinokuniya
• Tully’s Coffee
• Starbucks Japan
• Lupicia
• UCC

Home Goods

• Hario
• Bruno
• Salut

Clothes (kids and adults)

• Gelato Pique (Kids & Adults)
• Comme Ca Ism (Men)
• Mila Owen (Women)
• Bebe Mall  (Kids)

Accessories

• Anemone 
• Luna Earth

Pregnancy & Baby Goods

• Akachan Honpo
• Babies R Us

Combini

• Family Mart
• 7/11

Department Stores

• Mitsukoshi
• Takashimaya
• Seibu
• Hankyu 
• Daimaru

Have you ever bought a fukubukuro? How lucky were you? Let us know in the comments!

Dear Hilary—What’s Wrong With A Traditional New Year’s?

Like many people who come to Japan, I came for the culture. At first it was anime and manga, but after I got here I became completely obsessed with Japanese traditions—especially holidays. I celebrate everything I can, and New Year’s is no exception. I even took classes on different subjects, so I wouldn’t be disrespectful. In fact, my former Japanese boyfriend and I used to attend traditional events together.

However, early this year I started dating someone new (he’s Japanese too), and about a week ago when I mentioned that I was excited to make my own osechi again. He gave me this really rude look and asked why I bothered since I’m foreign. He said that it was “weird” to want to make osechi or to go to a shrine and that I should be drinking champagne and having a “real party like normal people” do. I laughed it off, but now I feel really awkward about discussing anything related to end-of-year plans with him.

He’s already started talking about what we’re doing for Christmas, which, oddly enough, in his mind is a totally Japanese-style date, but now I’m not so sure I want to do that, or anything with him, to be honest. I’ve been using work as an excuse not to see him at the moment because I really can’t figure out what his issue is. What do you think?

—Akeome

Dear Akeome,

Wow! Before I get into your message, I just want to say how impressed I am that you make your own osechi (traditional Japanese New Year’s foods). I’ve only ever attempted it once but I’m pretty sure toshi-koshi (New Year’s Eve) soba is my limit.

You seem to disagree with what your boyfriend is saying, which is entirely understandable. I’m curious as to why he feels it’s so strange for you to celebrate a traditional Japanese New Year’s, though. The whole “why bother since you’re foreign” in particular stands out to me.

First things first: have you taken part in, celebrated or otherwise shown an understanding of or appreciation for Japanese traditions thus far in your relationship? Did he make any comments, positive or negative, about that? Did he join in or did he refuse to take part?

If so, and the comments were positive and/or he took part as well, then it could be that he has a problem with New Year’s specifically. It’s the end of the year, people are stressed out at work, there can be a lot of pressure to make things a certain way for the family’s sake, and so on. It can also be a depressing or difficult time of year. For example, an acquaintance of mine lost several family members around the New Year, and as such doesn’t celebrate it in the traditional fashion. Another friend is estranged from their family and prefers to go out to parties instead.

It could also just be osechi itself that is the issue.

I know at least four Japanese people that absolutely hate the stuff and would rather eat anything else. Or your boyfriend might simply prefer a Western-style New Year’s bash to a Japanese one and be struggling to explain this sentiment to you.

On the other hand, if your boyfriend is chronically negative or put-off by your appreciation of Japanese culture, his comment could be symptomatic of a different problem with your relationship. If he, for example, takes issue with you wearing a yukata/kimono, visiting temples and shrines, or even something as small as using chopsticks, then he might be gatekeeping his culture or trying to keep you foreign for his own purposes.

Does he mock or put down Japanese culture? Or is your appreciation of Japanese culture a common complaint of his? I might start to question why he’s dating you if that’s the case. He may not be dating you for you so much as for the fact that you’re not Japanese.

It’s not that uncommon for some Japanese men (across all age groups) to have a foreign fetish.

As it were, and to use dating someone non-Japanese to make themselves feel better, or even elevate their social or career status. Some do as it gives them the appearance of being worldly or even capable of speaking another language, when in fact they cannot.

They see dating a foreigner as a stepping stone to better things, be that:

• Hafu-children, who are often sterotyped to have an envious multicultral look and abliity to speak multiple langauges
• An “automatic” visa enabling them to live overseas
• “Free” accommodations if they travel to their partner’s home country

Basically dating a foreigner is a relationship “full of perks” for them.

While they tend to come in a variety of types, the overall trend among this kind of man is a loathing or self-deprecating view of their own culture as being somehow “less than” that of Western culture. That manifests in certain expectations of non-Japanese people–namely, that they don’t take part in Japanese traditions. Some might even prefer their non-Japanese partners to actively participate in mocking those traditions alongside them.

“Sometimes Japanese guys who are obsessed with foreigners, especially white ones, have hang-ups about being Japanese. They want to be seen as this cool, exotic Japanese, but global kind of guy. But if their partner knows more about their culture than they do, they start feeling insecure about themselves. They realize they aren’t special and probably not what their partner is looking for because they don’t know their own culture, and act defensively. They’re willing to bully their partner away from Japanese culture in order to maintain that foreignness they covet.” (Japanese man, 42).

Uno Reverse It!

While not exactly the nicest of routes to take, if your boyfriend thinks it’s “weird” for you to have a Japanese-style New Year’s, then I might tell him that you would prefer to celebrate Christmas “like a foreigner”. That means no KFC, no strawberry shortcake and no sexy Santa costumes that seem to form the basis of many Japanese Christmas fantasies.

Having a clear discussion about why he feels that way about your making osechi should settle the matter clearly. He either dislikes Japanese New Year’s for his own reasons or, if he’s chronically against your taking part in Japanese culture, you and he simply have values that don’t match up.

If that turns out to be the case, then perhaps you should reconsider the relationship as you obviously have invested time, energy and money into studying them and don’t want to give that up. Best of luck.

Got a question you’d like to ask Hilary? Email it to askhilary@savvytokyo.com with the subject “Ask Hilary.”

Another year has flown by, and if you live in Japan, you’ll probably encounter the two largest annual events overlapping—Christmas and New Year—each celebrated very differently depending on the family. As you navigate these unique customs, you’ll quickly notice how central Japanese New Year’s traditions are to the season. Below is the step-by-step process of how and why the Japanese celebrate the end of a year and the beginning of a new one.

Nenmatsu-nenshi, Toshikoshi & Shinnen

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What term refers to what? We get you. It can get confusing. Before we delve into the actual traditions, let’s first define the terminology.

• 年末年始 (nenmatsu-nenshi; “year-end, year-beginning”): Describes the time of year when we are busy and stressed, yet looking forward to spending time with our loved ones. In terms of dates, it actually covers the very last days of the current year and the first days of the new one.
• 年越し (toshikoshi; “passing the year”): Refers to the events and customs that take place at the end of year.
• 新年 (shinnen; “new year”): Refers to all festivities taking place before heading back to work on Jan. 4.

The official nenmatsu-nenshi break in Japan for most people is between Dec. 29 and Jan. 3. Yes, that’s the most blessed time of the year!

Japanese New Year’s Eve Traditions

Below are some of the most unique and traditionally celebrated New Year’s events in Japan. Whether in Akita or Shimane prefectures, celebrating the holidays here will make you go through at least half of these traditions in one way or another.

1. Nengajo (年賀状)

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Starting as early as the beginning of December, Japanese people receive their New Year’s seasonal greeting postcards even before the Christmas trees are up. The nengajo is a special postcard used only for New Year’s greetings. As long as you drop them off at your local post office by December 25 (or sometimes even a few days later is fine), they will arrive on January 1, or at the latest, by January 3.

Nengajo are somewhat equivalent to Christmas cards in the West. They’re a way to keep connected to friends, relatives, colleagues and acquaintances at least once a year. The cards also have a set of numbers at the bottom of the card called nengajo tosen that may win you a prize or some cash. The winning numbers are announced on the Japanese Postal website in mid-January, so keep an eye out!

As physical nengajo continue to decline—Japan Post reported a 34% drop in New Year’s Day deliveries in 2025—more people now send digital versions instead. Younger generations especially prefer quick greetings through messaging apps or social media, and Japan Post has responded by launching Smart Nenga, a fully digital service that lets users create and send animated or personalized New Year cards directly through LINE.

2. Hagoita Decorations (羽子板)

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Hagoita is a rectangular wooden paddle originally used to play hanetsuki, a traditional Japanese game similar to badminton. Today, people display them as New Year’s decorations to drive away evil spirits—just as you’d hit a badminton feather, you symbolically hit the bad luck away.

The paddles are stunningly beautiful, decorated with 3D models made of silk, wood and washi (Japanese paper). They often represent faces from traditional theater plays, geisha, kabuki actors or sumo wrestlers. You can purchase a set for yourself at most temples around mid-December. If you’re not sure where to go, the famous Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa sells them annually from December 17 to 19.

3. Oosoji (大掃除)

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Oosoji is Japan’s equivalent of “Spring Cleaning.” On the last weekend of the year, the whole family pitches in to clean the house (especially the windows) so they can start the new year fresh and clean.

Check out this article if you want to oosoji like a pro, and for those looking, here are some Japanese cleaning product recommendations. For lazy cleaners, we also have a list of low-effort Japanese products to keep your home clean. And for those on a budget, there are 100 yen shop must-haves for cleaning that make tidying up before the New Year quick, easy and affordable.

4. Oshogatsu-kazari (お正月飾り)

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After the oosoji is completed, families set about decorating the house with oshogatsu-kazari, or New Year’s decorations. The decorations commonly consist of:

• Kadomatsu: Three bits of bamboo and some pine leaves
• Kagamimochi: Two tiers of mochi, or rice cakes with a tangerine on top
• Shimekazari: A New Year’s wreath

The timing of the decoration is also very important. It is commonly believed that if you rush to decorate your house on the last day of the year, an act referred to as 一夜飾り (ichiya-kazari; “one-night decoration”), it will anger the gods and therefore bring bad luck. So, it’s better to put up those decorations before New Year’s Eve!

5. Toshikoshi Soba (年越し蕎麦)

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Once all the cleaning and decorating are done and New Year’s Eve is upon us, families prepare a traditional meal called toshikoshi soba. The long soba noodles symbolize a general wish for a long life filled with precision and attention to detail.

The topping of the soba depends on which region of Japan you are in. For example, in Tokyo, we often have ebi (shrimp). The ebi’s curved back symbolizes a “long life” and is often used in osechi ryori as well (see below).

Soba also has the symbolism of nagasu or “letting it go” as you slip it down your throat and forget about it—in other words, let everything you’ve been through this year go and move on.

6. Joya no kane (除夜の鐘)

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Joya no kane refers to the large bell at a temple or shrine, rung at midnight on New Year’s Eve to symbolize the beginning of the New Year. It is performed by a temple or shrine priest in front of thousands of shrine or temple visitors who are there for hatsumode (read further to learn more about it).

Japanese New Year’s Traditions

Now that we’ve welcomed the New Year, there’s another round of things to do—starting from 12 a.m. on January 1.

7. Hatsumode (初詣)

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This is the first visit to a shrine or temple in the year, and it’s done to pray for good fortune. It is often associated with queuing up in long lines as people wait to pray for the year ahead, buy some omikuji (Japanese paper fortunes) and omamori (Japanese lucky charms), and write their wishes on wooden plates, called ema.

8. Osechi ryori (おせち料理)

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Osechi ryori is a special dinner/breakfast/lunch (depending on the family and district) traditionally consumed only during the first three days of the year. The women of the house slave over the stove for the last couple of days to complete the meal(s) in order for the first three days of the year to be cooking-free.

Every item in the osechi ryori symbolizes a wish for the New Year: for example, shrimps are for longevity, kuri-kinton (sweet chestnuts) for wealth and the kazunoko (herring roe) is for fertility. Please read this article for the full list of all osechi ryori dishes and their hidden meanings.

9. Ozoni (お雑煮)

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A traditional New Year’s breakfast in Japan typically consists of a broth or soup with grilled mochi added, called ozoni. The broth will vary according to region and to the particular family. Unfortunately, this dish is also behind a number of casualties in Japan every year, as some elderly people pass away due to choking on the mochi—if you eat it, chew it slowly.

10. Buying hamaya (破魔矢)

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Hamaya (literally, “an arrow to break the evil”) is a little wooden arrow purchased at a temple or shrine during hatsumode in order to bring good luck for the coming year. Keep it displayed in your home with the tip facing down throughout the year, and then return it to the shrine the following year for the saito (yearly burn) ceremony, which purifies it for disposal. Buy a new one every New Year and repeat!

11. Omikuji (おみくじ)

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Omikuji are fortunes written on strips of paper, which can be bought at shrines or temples for a small fee (usually ¥100). The best you can get is 大吉 (daikichi) and the worst is 凶 (kyou). The fortunes are often scrolled up or folded as part of the suspense, and if you happen to receive a bad fortune, you should try to use your less-dominant hand to tie it to a special fence reserved on the lot, thus leaving the bad luck behind you.

12. Nanakusa-gayu (七草粥)

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After all the culturing is done and you’ve stuffed your face full of osechi and drunk to your heart’s content (New Year’s celebrations often include plenty of drinking), your stomach may understandably not be too pleased by the full-on food attack, and the Japanese have a clever way to remedy it.

On the seventh day of January, the Japanese make rice porridge called nanakusa-gayu to settle your stomach and soothe the heaviness. Nanakusa-gayu consists of seven types of Japanese herbs and a light broth. Lately, supermarkets have been selling premade kits, so head down to your local one and get it simmering.

If you want to attempt making it yourself, you’ll need to get these seven herbs:

• 芹 (seri; “Japanese parsley”)
• 薺 (nazuna; “shepherd’s purse”)
• 御形 (gogyo; “cudweed”)
• 繁縷 (hakobera; “chickweed”)
• 仏の座 (hotokenoza; “henbit”)
• 菘 (suzuna; “turnip”)
• 蘿蔔 (suzushiro; “daikon radish”)

Once you have your herbs, simply simmer rice and water—often with a bit of salt—to create a soft, plain porridge. Then, add the seven finely chopped herbs, and voilà, your nanakusa-gayu is ready. You can optionally add some dashi stock for a light umami base too, but the traditional version is simply rice, water, salt and the seven herbs.

Bonus New Year’s Terms

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Though the following are not traditions per se, these are terms you will commonly hear during the New Year’s holidays in Japan.

• 仕事納め (shigoto-osame; “last working day of the year”): Also known as goyo-osame, it refers to the last working day of the year (usually Dec. 28 or Dec. 29). As you can imagine, most offices are extremely hectic on this day.
• 元旦・元日 (gantan/ganjitsu; “New Year’s morning/New Year’s Day”): People often say them together or think that they mean the same thing. However, they are separate words, and naturally, have different definitions. Gantan refers to the morning of New Year’s Day, while ganjitsu means the whole day of January 1.
• 初夢 (hatsu-yume; “first dream of the year”): There is a long-standing superstition that at the beginning of the year, if you dream of either Mt. Fuji, a hawk or an eggplant, you will have a year to remember.
• 初日の出 (hatsu-hinode; “first sunrise of the year”): Watching the first sunrise—preferably from a beach, mountain, or rooftop—is believed to bring good luck and a fresh start.

I hope you find this compiled list helpful. Many Japanese families have their own New Year’s traditions and long-established customs that have been passed down from generation to generation, so when in doubt, ask!

Happy New Year’s, everyone!

This article has been republished with the latest information for 2025.

While Japan has many lovely winter flowers to enjoy outdoors, the inside of our apartments can feel drab and chilly from December to March. As the weather cools, we retreat indoors and spend more time huddled under blankets, thick sweaters and fuzzy socks. This is where indoor flowering plants come in—adding warmth, color and life to your living space during the colder months. The indoor world feels far more inviting when flowers help offset the gray winter skies.

1. African Violets

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Despite having a (somewhat unwarranted in my opinion!) difficult reputation, afurika sumire (African violets) are beloved flowering houseplants that will bloom all year round. They come in several varieties and feature a petite size, vibrant colors—most commonly purple, red, pink or white—along with rosette-like flowers and soft, fuzzy leaves. You can easily group a number of these flowers together to create a colorful arrangement that will brighten your home this winter.

These plants thrive in bright, indirect sunlight, preferably near a window, and in well-ventilated environments free from cold drafts. African violets also require a well-draining potting mix, as they perform poorly in either too dry or waterlogged soils. Although these plants prefer humid environments, they are sensitive to misting or having their leaves wet. This can cause browning spots to form. For constant blooms, be sure to fertilize regularly and deadhead the flowers as soon as they are spent.

2. Indoor Roses

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You may be surprised to learn that bara (roses) can be grown indoors. However, given the right conditions, these uncommon house plants, too, can sit alongside your other flora. Miniature roses (ミニチュアローズ) are the best and will flower just as beautifully in your home as they would outside, provided you offer them the right environment. Miniature infinity roses (インフィニティローズ), for example, are a type of mini rose that are easy to find in Japan (even in supermarkets sometimes!) and bred for life inside.

Roses require ample sunlight—at least six hours of direct light near a southern or western exposed window—otherwise, they will not be able to thrive. Additionally, like other indoor flowering houseplants, they require a warm and humid environment. Roses are prone to spider mites and are more susceptible if the air becomes too dry. As such, placing them on a bed of moist pebbles is one option to maintain their ideal humidity levels. These plants, like all of our flowering friends, will also likely need regular fertilizing to bloom indoors.

3. Begonias

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Begonias (ベゴニア) are versatile plants with striking leaves and colorful, rose-like flowers. Several varieties exist, but wax begonias—named for their waxy leaves—remain the most popular thanks to their unfussy nature and bright foliage. Begonias make lovely, affordable gifts and add a touch of attractiveness to any houseplant collection.

Begonias are relatively easy to care for, but overwatering can cause root rot. Allow the soil to dry out completely and let the plant show slight drooping before watering again. Additionally, since they are tropical plants, they require warm and humid environments (which is usually not a problem for most of the year in Japan). Begonias enjoy indirect sunlight and generally grow well indoors because they don’t need extensive hours of daylight to produce a continuous supply of gorgeous blooms.

4. Anthuriums

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Anthuriums (アンスリウム) originate in the warm, humid rainforests of South America and stand out for their dramatic flair and low-maintenance nature. Their flowers, or “spathes,” resemble large, brightly colored leaves that bloom in bold reds, pinks and whites. Because they resemble poinsettias, anthuriums have grown increasingly popular as winter holiday decorations. These flowers make festive centerpieces and pair beautifully with other tropical plants, such as orchids and begonias, for year-round displays.

Anthuriums typically flower sporadically throughout the year, with each flowering period lasting about eight weeks. They may take a few months to adjust to a new environment, so don’t worry if blooms don’t appear right away. Place them near a window for direct sunlight, especially in winter, and maintain high humidity to help them thrive.

5. Orchids

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Although ran (orchids) are known for being difficult indoor plants, they’re nevertheless a popular choice for their unique beauty and array of colorful blooms. The most common one is the gochooran (Phalaenopsis orchid), also known as a moth orchid for its eponymously shaped flowers. Measuring about two to five centimeters in diameter, these flowers can come in whites, purples and yellows and are capable of flowering for four to six months of the year.

When keeping orchids, one fatal mistake is overwatering. While they certainly like quite a bit of water, root rot tends to settle in easily. As such, water orchids only when the top of the soil feels slightly dry. Choose soil explicitly designed for orchids, or opt for a well-draining mix that doesn’t dry out too quickly. Place them near east- or west-facing windows for direct sunlight, maintain 40–60% relative humidity, and allow a 10-degree difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures to enjoy showy blooms at least once a year—and twice if you’re lucky.

With these five flowering flora, you’re well on your way to making your Japanese home warmer with splashes of colorful petals.

What indoor flowering plants do you like to have inside during the winter months? Let us know in the comments below!

The actual meaning of Japanese Christmas is rather challenging to explain. Being a non-Christian nation, Christmas is not celebrated as a religious or even family-based event here. It’s not even a public holiday! Most companies and some schools will stay open until the last possible moment of the year, an oft-lamented fact that non-Japanese (myself included) find impossible to accept.

But if it’s not a holiday and it’s not a family or child-focused event, then what is it? Well, for many of the younger Japanese, Christmas is seen as more of a romantic holiday. It’s like the precursor to Valentine’s. And being such, you may as well experience (and enjoy) a typical Japanese Christmas date. So, here are a few tips to get started and what to expect.

Beware of “Quarter Men”

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For those using Tinder or other dating apps, you might find a sudden surge in the number of likes and message requests that you receive in the weeks leading up to Christmas. While this is certainly a boost to the ego, be wary of any guys that send a formulaic message—or you might find yourself chatting and making plans with a “quarter man”.

Quartermen are the guys who want a girlfriend around major holidays, but only when it’s convenient for them; they only date for a fixed period of three months—or one quarter, hence the name—then it’s goodbye. Summer flings fall into this category as well—lovely for three months but gone as soon as the weather changes.

The ones that start out in December are looking for someone to keep around from Christmas to Valentine’s Day. Then, come February 15th, you might find yourself single, which is really unfair considering March 14th is White Day, a commercial holiday many guys choose to ignore.

The Ideal Christmas Date

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My ex-fiancé once meticulously planned out the ideal Japanese Christmas date. I’ll break it down into its respective parts for you here.

Shopping & Sightseeing

Department stores have massive Christmas trees, impressive displays and lots of seasonal activities and music to really get you in the festive mood. Many might have already started their pre-New Year sales too. There are also various European-inspired Christmas markets held throughout Tokyo and beyond. You can grab a bite to eat here and buy a trinket or ornament to take home.

A Stop At A Pop-Up Ice Skating Rink

Shopping plazas often feature large, winter-only ice skating rinks in their central areas, complete with skate rentals and restrooms. Here are some of the places with these temporary rinks:

• Futakotamagawa Rise
• Tokyo Midtown
• Red Brick Warehouse in Yokohama

A Romantic Lunch & Dinner

This step is more applicable to couples with disposable income. However, many coupon-clippers also like to splash out on a fancy hotel buffet, course dinner or dessert and champagne “snack” in an expensive restaurant this time of year. The only problem, of course, is that many places require reservations far in advance—some with waiting lists that span two years!

A Stroll Through The City’s Illuminations

Shopping plazas, parks and gardens, as well as brand-name shops, stations and shopping streets, go all out when it comes to winter illuminations. These brilliant displays of light are like the winter equivalent of fireworks—one of my friends believes that it’s just not Christmas without a trip to see the lights. These lights are often left up from November to February.

Fried Chicken & Strawberry Shortcakes

Fried chicken, particularly the Kentucky Fried Chicken type, is Japan’s version of a Christmas turkey or goose. Most Japanese ovens are just not equipped to cook a turkey, and even if they could, you often can’t fit a whole turkey inside them in the first place.

For Japan, Christmas cake means strawberry shortcake: plain white cake, white whipped cream icing and real strawberries on top. In the early 1900s, strawberry shortcake was introduced to Japan from America by Rinemon Fujii, the baker behind what later became the Fujiya Co. Ltd, and quickly became a fairly high-class dessert (whipped cream and strawberries were very expensive at the time). In 1922, the Fujiya company began producing these cakes in greater numbers; other bakeries took notice, and the strawberry shortcake became Japan’s Christmas cake of choice. Read more about Japan’s affectionate Christmas cake history here.

Gift Exchange

So it’s time to exchange Christmas gifts. From my experience, there are standard gifts almost expected: a tie, warm scarf or nice gloves for him and some form of jewelry or beauty products for her—all expertly wrapped, of course. These gifts may have been purchased in advance or while you were out shopping together, although some may like a surprise gift exchange instead.

Off To Bed

You may have noticed that the above date doesn’t necessarily have to take place at home. While many couples do celebrate with their own tree and in the comforts of their own home, some prefer to stay at a hotel of some denomination—ryokan (Japanese inn), luxury hotel or even a nice love hotel—for Christmas. This is the reason why:

Naughty Mrs. Claus, Christmas Maid or Elf Cosplay

If you don’t believe me, just walk into your nearest Don Quixote or lingerie store and look at their seasonal display. Some (not all) Japanese men want to see their lady in red lingerie with a skimpy, white fur-trimmed apron or cuffs—one shop a few years back even sold a set with a jingling collar.

Japanese Christmas Culture Shock

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Like many non-Japanese women in Japan, Christmas for me means family, friends, cozy sweaters, Rudolph, presents and spiked eggnog. The Hollywood-infused Japanese Christmas date described above might seem cheesy to even the kindest film critics, not to mention expensive. But it’s part of the culture and something you should experience at least once. If you’re seeing someone special or have a prospective partner, why not plan something special for them yourself?

Have a joyous, lovely Japanese Christmas!

This article has been republished for 2025.

Beautiful layers of white cream adorn a fluffy cake with plump strawberries on top—this has long been the iconic image of Japanese Christmas confectionery. Still, its Christmas cake history goes much further back than many people realize.

Christmas cakes were first sold in Japan in 1910, and the ubiquitous ichigo shotokeki (strawberry shortcake) only hit shelves in 1922. It wasn’t until the postwar period, in 1952, that the strawberry shortcake Christmas cake became more accessible to the general public and cemented its place in Japan’s Christmas imagery (and stomachs across the nation).

To understand the history of this tasty tradition, we must delve into the past of Fujiya, a storied Japanese confectionery maker.

Introducing Christmas Cake To Japan

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Fujiya, now with branches nationwide, is a patisserie that was initially based in Yokohama. In 1910, Fujii Rinemon opened his first shop in Motomachi, the upscale neighborhood adjacent to the Yamate and Kannai districts where the foreign population of Yokohama lived and worked. As the Meiji era dawned, the Motomachi area blossomed. The streets were soon dotted with cafes, clothing stores and bakeries. The Fujiya store was at the vanguard of this explosion of Western culture in Yokohama, where many overseas customs and wares spread to the rest of the country.

Indeed, in December of the same year, Fujiya offered the first Christmas cake sold in Japan. Arranged simply with silver ball decorations, the cake was a single-layer glazed with white fondant frosting, made by mixing sugar and water. But the difference with today’s decadent fresh cream concoctions was not merely aesthetic. The cake was not a Japanese sponge cake—known now as the shortcake—but rather a fruit cake, steamed in the oven and made of plums, dried fruit like raisins and alcohol.

1921 was a particularly bustling Christmas and a fateful one for Fujii. With business booming, thanks in part to a craze that year for decorated cakes, he opened a second store. To his surprise, his customer base was also shifting from foreign customers to Japanese ones. In 1922, Fujii developed a special cake to sell at his two shops, inspired by his studies abroad in the United States.

The Stawberry Shortcake

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While stateside, he tried a dessert called a shortcake—two scones filled with cream and fresh fruit and named for the shortening used in the biscuit dough. Fujii felt fascinated by the flavor but believed the crunchy scones wouldn’t suit the Japanese palate.

Instead, he chose to make his shortcake out of a sponge cake. He drew inspiration from the ever-fashionable castella cake, another local interpretation of a Western (this time Portuguese) dessert which emerged in the late 1500s. His resulting creation, combined fresh cream and American-style strawberry shortcake with a softer, spongier cake, making it the first strawberry shortcake sold in Japan.

Many people believe the kouhaku (red and white) color combination—traditionally used for celebrations and shared with the hinomaru (rising sun) national flag—helped drive the popularity of strawberries and cream as the country’s signature Christmas cake style. Still, however, in the 1920s, these cakes were exceedingly extravagant. Without refrigerators in most homes, their potential for the astronomical fame that awaited would remain dormant until the postwar period.

For Everyone To Enjoy

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In 1952, on the eve of Japan’s “long postwar,” only a few months after the American occupation force left the country, Fujiya held its first-ever Christmas sale. In what would become a tradition across Japan, the strawberry shortcakes lined the shop window, inviting customers to enjoy the sweet treat for the holidays.

By the mid-1960s, the strawberry shortcake’s place in Christmas culture was firmly established. Elaborately decorated two-layer cakes became increasingly common. This design, along with the classic taste pioneered in the early Showa era, continues to dominate Japanese imaginings of Christmas sweets.

Modern Christmas Cakes

© Photo by Ritz Carlton Tokyo

While the shortcake reigns supreme, the current market for Christmas cakes is not exclusively red, white and fluffy crumb cake. Instead, chocolate, pistachio, blueberries, ganache and buttercream turn into festive creations across modern patisseries.

Additionally, Japanese pastry chefs have incorporated traditions from other countries to diversify the confectionery landscape. Popular examples include France’s buche de Noël (a Christmas log cake) and Italy’s panettone (a Christmas sweet bread).

While stand-alone patisseries certainly make cakes, department stores and hotels are now the primary purveyors. They often open advance sales as early as mid-November with many selling out before the months end. Conbini (convenience stores) also get into the Christmas cake game, offering their own strawberry shortcakes. And, of course, some families opt to make their own, too.

As for my family, we usually opt for a strawberry shortcake, but last year, we diverged and went with chocolate. Honestly, it was a bit disappointing not to be met with the mouthfuls of sweet-tart strawberries and cream, so we will return to our (Japanese Christmas) roots this year alongside so many other eager sweet tooths.

And if you’re wondering if Fujiya continues to specialize in shortcakes at Christmas time, the answer is a resounding yes. You can find their stores throughout Japan, in both standalone shops and inside department stores, such as Aeon. Celebrating over 100 years since their founder’s first shortcake, they continue to sell classic Christmas cakes.

Did you know about Japan’s Christmas cake history? What sort of sweets do you celebrate this festive season with? Let us know in the comments!

Mizuhiki is the ancient Japanese art of knot-tying. Since the Asuka Period, gifts have been decorated with rice paper cords, which are handcrafted into beautiful, intricate designs. Nowadays, mizuhiki adorns both traditional and contemporary holiday gifts as well as decorations.

The History Of Mizuhiki

© Photo by Wikimedia Commons: Katsushika, Hokusai, 1760-1849

The gracefully swirling mizuhiki seen on holiday gifts and New Year’s decorations originated from motoyui—strong, flexible paper cords used to tie up hair into traditional topknots. As the samurai era faded, artisans transformed the skills used to create motoyui into an art form, incorporating vibrant colors and decorative shapes. It has been said that after an elegant red and white design was presented to the Emperor, mizuhiki gained favor in the world of gift-giving.

An abundance of pure water and kozo (the Japanese paper mulberry tree) was found in the town of Iida in Nagano, Japan. Combined with its dry climate, this region fostered a comfortable environment for the production of paper cords. Today, 70% of Japan’s mizuhiki materials originate from Iida, significantly contributing to the preservation of this ancient craft.

The Finishing Touch To Gift Wrapping

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In Japan, mizuhiki is more than just a decorative string for wrapping presents. While the big, beautiful ribbons of the West create a sense of joy and excitement, mizuhiki establishes a sense of care and thoughtfulness. It acts as a seal, promising that the gift has remained unopened. It also acts as an amulet, warding off evil spirits. Most importantly, the knot symbolizes the connection between the gift-giver and the receiver, creating a strong bond between them.

Mizuhiki’s precise and artful aesthetic makes it perfect for formal gift exchanges. People often tie it around a gift box or envelope, choosing colors and styles to convey a specific sentiment. Traditional motifs, including cranes and turtles, add layers of meaning. People can also create bows from mizuhiki and wrap them around holiday presents, similar to ribbons.

How To Knot For The Holidays

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For centuries, mizuhiki has been a part of New Year celebrations in Japan, symbolizing prayers and good wishes for the new year. Traditional New Year’s decorations are often adorned with mizuhiki designs that delicately curve and twist, forming mesmerizing shapes. Some examples include:

• Shimekazari (sacred rice straw decorations)
• Kagami mochi (mirror-shaped rice cakes)
• Kodamatsu (pine and bamboo decorations)

People also use mizuhiki on pochibukuro, small paper envelopes for gifting money to children on New Year’s Day. You can also spot imaginative and charming knots resembling zodiac animals, such as a horse’s face for the 2026 Year of the Horse.

Modern Knots

In modern-day Japan, you can find all sorts of mizuhiki Christmas and New Year decorations. Paper cords are freely shaped into festive designs like snowflakes, reindeer and evergreen trees. One simple design that can be made at home is a mizuhiki Christmas wreath.

Cords dyed in deep reds, forest greens and shimmering golds can be twisted into a circular arrangement and form the base of a wreath. The wreath can then be embellished with pine and a simple plum or awaji knot.

With cords now available in a myriad of shades, metallic films, glossy sheens or matte finishes, the possibilities are endless. Tokyo Station and department stores around Tokyo have displayed large-scale Christmas trees made from a thousand mizuhiki ornaments.

Auspicious Colors, Designs & Knotting Techniques

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Traditionally, people carefully select the color, design and knotting technique of a mizuhiki piece to convey specific meanings. They use an odd number of strands for celebrations, while reserving even numbers for commemorations.

Color combinations such as gold and silver signify joyous occasions, while black and white denote more somber events. People use knotting styles like musubi-kiri (a tough knot that is difficult to untie) for events they hope do not occur multiple times, such as weddings or funerals. They use easily untied knots, such as the chou-musubi (butterfly knot), for events that can happily recur, like academic ceremonies, career milestones and the birth of a baby.

For New Year’s in Japan, one of the common mizuhiki knot styles used is the awaji-musubi. The awaji-musubi is tied tightly and cannot be easily untied, symbolizing everlasting good fortune for the year to come. Celebratory mizuhiki are likely to have three, five or seven strands bundled together. Still, the choice of knot, size, color and strand number may depend on regional traditions and personal preferences.

Today, artisans in Japan continue to create jewelry, accessories and home decor items using mizuhiki, including festive ornaments. Tokyo Mizuhiki is one such shop in Tokyo that sells artful items and hosts workshops teaching knot-tying techniques.

Whether you are decorating your living space, getting presents ready or looking to add a touch of artful elegance to your ensemble, you’ll encounter both traditional and contemporary expressions of mizuhiki art throughout Japan during the holiday season.

Will you be using mizuhiki this holiday season?

There’s no denying that regular walks can help with a number of physical and mental health conditions. Sometimes, however, walking alone can feel tedious. If you are like me and need a goal to keep up a good habit, then perhaps you’d like to try collecting 御城印 (gojyoin; “castle stamps”).

What Are Gojyoin?

While Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples have goshuin (Japanese shrine and temple stamps), Japanese castles have gojyoin. Much like goshuin, gojyoin are sold at various castles around Japan. They can range in price from ¥300 to ¥ 1,000, although special, limited-edition ones for special events may cost more.

The castle stamps are made similarly to goshuin. Images or designs are stamped on washi paper, accompanied by the castle’s name and the date on the paper. Unlike goshuin, however, these papers are often prepared in advance (sometimes printed on a computer) and distributed in paper envelopes upon payment. You will likely have to write the date of your visit on it yourself, although some locations will do this for you instead.

The Origin Of Gojyoin

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Gojyoin got its start in 1990, when Matsumoto Castle in Nagano prefecture began selling ‘visitation certificates’ to those who came to the castle. They were somewhat popular, but the concept didn’t really gain traction until 2016. Around that time, Gujo Hachiman Castle in Gifu Prefecture (and others) announced that they were donating the proceeds from the sales of these stamps to aid earthquake relief efforts in Kumamoto Prefecture.

As of 2020, there are over 500 castles and historic remains that sell their own castle stamps.

Please note that, while similar, goshuin have somewhat sacred connotations (as they are proof of a pilgrimage in a sense), while gojyoin are more of a souvenir.

Getting Started With Gojyoin

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First, you’ll need a 御城印帳 (gojyoincho), which is essentially the same sort of book as those for shrine stamps. In fact, some people collect both in the same book as souvenirs from their visits to particularly historically rich areas. However, this is a point of contention among collectors of both. They range in price from ¥1,000 to ¥2,500, while more elaborate or highly customized ones can be found in the ¥3,500 to ¥6,000 range.

Technically speaking, that’s all that you need—although a good pair of walking shoes is highly recommended. Unlike most shrines and temples, Japanese castles tend to be situated on mountains or high above the rest of the city, which often requires hiking. Dressing appropriately is key, as the last thing you want to do is end up with blisters and bruises.

How Do You Collect Gojyoin?

Gojyoin are not only sold at the castles themselves, but may be found in gift shops, tourist information centers or even at highway rest stops. That being said, these locations sometimes close earlier than the castle itself. If there is a stamp you really want to collect, plan ahead and arrive early.

Gojyoin Meguri

Much like with goshuin, you can also go on day trips to collect various castle stamps. There are plenty of books out there to help you get started, too. They’re often located in the domestic travel section of your favorite bookstore.

Sometimes you can even find magazines for specific historical areas or figures that include 御城印巡り (gojyoin meguri) or day trips and hikes that will take you to historical sites and castles where you can collect various gojyoin as well.

If you want to get started locally, then in Tokyo, you can collect gojyoin from the following sites:

• Ishihama Castle (石浜城): visit Ishihama Shrine; (Google Map Link); ¥300-¥500
• Shakujii Castle (石神井城): visit Patisserie Cache-Cache (Google Map Link); ¥300
• Nerima Castle (練馬城): visit Links For Hair Salon (Google Map Link); ¥300
• Takinogawa Castle (滝野川城): visit Love Live Lead Store Souvenir Shop (Google Map Link); ¥440
• Inatsuke Castle (稲付城): visit Love Live Lead Store Souvenir Shop (Google Map Link); ¥440
• Asukayama Castle (飛鳥山城): visit Love Live Lead Store Souvenir Shop (Google Map Link); ¥440

Anyone with a keen knowledge of Tokyo will have noticed that these castles aren’t technically here any longer, or only exist in the form of ruins. In order to collect these gojyoin, you’ll need to visit a shop or shrine near the former castle site.

Outside of Tokyo, there are numerous walking courses to choose from, offering far more options. Chiba Prefecture, for example, has over 100 castle sites with gojyoin. Plus, if you are traveling to check out new castles, you can also try some great B-kyu foods along the way.

If you’re looking for a good reason to get out and walk this winter, consider collecting gojyoin castle stamps.