Living in Japan isn’t all sunshine and sushi, and yet many people make it a permanent move. With all the culture shock, work and immigration factors to consider, many may neglect their long-term health. I’m guilty of that myself, and as a result, I ended up with a health scare a year ago. I’m not the only one; many foreign residents also discover unexpected health conditions during their time in Japan. In this article, we’ll cover common lifestyle illnesses in Japan, why they’re often found late and feature real-life stories.

What Is A Lifestyle Illness?

A lifestyle illness, or seikatsu shukan byo (生活習慣病), is a non-communicable disease caused by a person’s lifestyle or habits. The term was first proposed in 1996 by the Ministry of Health and Welfare’s Council on Public Health, intended to differentiate it from non-communicable diseases and conditions strongly associated with aging.

A lack of physical activity, unhealthy eating habits and smoking are the main factors behind developing a lifestyle illness. However, your ethnicity and family history can also influence how your health evolves.

Some common lifestyle illnesses in Japan include:

Lifestyle illnesses often come without any warning symptoms or with symptoms that can easily be ignored or attributed to another health issue. It is typically a condition that can’t be cured outright but can be managed, often with prescription medicines and lifestyle changes. Illness rates in general increase dramatically from about age 40, which is why your Japanese national health insurance rate increases at that age, too.

“You have to start paying for the Long-Term Care Insurance Premium at 40, in order to provide for the long-term care needs of the elderly, but also for anyone over 40 who has an age or lifestyle-related illness. It’s expensive, but beneficial” (Keiko, Japanese, 31).

Getting A Diagnosis in Japan

If something feels “off”, see your doctor as soon as you can. As women, our medical needs are often ignored, so advocate for yourself or maybe get a friend or partner involved, too. To learn more about the process of consulting a doctor in Japan, refer to this article.

In my case, I was getting routine blood work when I was diagnosed with vitamin B12 deficiency and a couple of levels my doctor called “interesting.” I’m not sure I like hearing a medical professional say that in any language, but in Japanese, it somehow feels more worrisome. Going to the doctor doesn’t have to be scary. If you aren’t comfortable speaking Japanese, it’s not always easy to express what your health concerns are to a doctor here, either.

“I smoked, I gained weight while living in Japan. I had a check-up, and when I mentioned some breathing trouble to my wife, she told my doctor, and he had me go to the hospital for some testing. Long story short, I had a tumor in my lungs. I had to quit smoking, change my diet and lose weight… It took years to undo the damage I did to myself” (Scott, American, 57).

“I’m no spring chicken, so when I was told I had non-alcoholic fatty liver disease (Metabolic dysfunction–associated steatotic liver disease), I assumed it was from age. No, apparently my diet had been doing me in for years and I never noticed it until I got these yellow spots on my eyelids” (Kathy, American, 65).

“I got homesick, living in Japan for so long, and I started eating more dishes like those my mother made. I was diagnosed with hypertension after my employee health check” (Sarah, British, 43).

Living With A Lifestyle Illness

Being diagnosed with a lifestyle illness is a sign that, while serious, you can still reduce the effects of the condition on your health. That being said, making drastic changes to your lifestyle is easier said than done. Starting to exercise, changing your diet, stopping bad habits, taking medications and that with whatever else you have going on in your life is a huge hurdle.

“I work long hours. I know I live a sedentary lifestyle, but now I’ve been told I need to start moving or else I’m going to die before I’m 60. It’s ridiculous, really. I spend my best years working hard, and then all that work means I’ll die before I can retire?” (Masato, Japanese-American, 50).

“When I was first diagnosed with Type 2 Diabetes, my first thought was to move home. Health care is free, or at least cheaper there, and I’d have my family to support me. I still consider it when things get tough, but I’m getting better at coping” (Lindsey, Canadian, 42).

“Hearing that I had cancer was like a punch in the gut. I’ve never felt more alone in my life, and I know I went a bit anti-social as a result. I suppose you could say I was a hikikomori, or at least withdrawn, while I got treatment” (Paul, Australian, 47).

The psychological impact of learning you have a lifestyle illness can be surprising, too.

Building Healthy Habits

Whatever your diagnosis is, doing what’s best for your health (mental and physical) is vital. Aside from taking your medications (if applicable), here are some other things to prioritize:

• Educating yourself as thoroughly as possible about your current diagnosis.
• Scheduling regular checkups with your doctor.
• Going for regular walks in your neighborhood is far easier (and cheaper) than joining a gym all of a sudden.
• If you need to change your diet, consider a grocery or meal service while you make your adjustments. Eat a more balanced diet of whole foods while reducing or eliminating processed foods as much as possible.
• Managing your stress by journaling, meditating and other mindfulness practices.
• Focusing on getting good quality sleep each night.
• Sharing your diagnosis with your friends and family so you can receive the support you need.

Hopefully, while making these changes, you’ll be able to live a long and happy life despite this diagnosis. “You got yourself into this mess, you can get yourself out” is the advice my own doctor gave me, and so far, it seems to be working. Be well!

Japan is home to the world’s oldest population, with approximately 30% of its citizens over 65 years old. Here, wellness isn’t a buzzword or a fad; it’s a way of life that is the product of daily rituals that have stood the test of time. At the core of these habits is grounding oneself in nature, from shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) and onsen (hot spring) trips to eating a balanced diet that changes with the seasons.

Today, Japan’s wellness market continues to evolve with these centuries-old traditions. In recent years, cannabidiol (CBD) oil has been a new addition to everyday wellness routines. This naturally occurring and non-addictive compound derived from the cannabis plant may reduce anxiety, improve sleep and relieve minor aches. 

Here are five ways people in Japan use CBD oil in their routines:

1. In Warm Drinks

One way people in Japan use CBD oil is by adding a few drops to their morning coffee or tea. It’s one of the most common ways to ingest CBD oil, adding a bit of warmth to your day. The key is to stir well so that the oil distributes evenly. Many people prefer this method because it doesn’t require any changes to their everyday rituals, be it gearing up for the long day ahead or unwinding in the evening.

2. In Homemade Chocolates or Baked Goods

Everyone loves a sweet treat. For a cozy night in, melt your favorite kind of chocolate, blend in some CBD oil and pour it into a mold to cool in the fridge. It’s a practical choice for anyone who dislikes the taste or texture of CBD oil on its own.

3. As Massage Oil

While lymphatic massages aren’t new to Japan, using CBD oil as a massage oil may help ease stiffness and minor aches or pains after a long day at work. At the end of the week, add in a massage as part of your self-care routine, whether you’re stretching or after showering. This approach is ideal for beginners who want to experience the benefits of CBD oil without any extra effort. 

4. Mixing It Into Hand Cream

Another great way to incorporate CBD oil into your lifestyle is to use it with your hand cream. Now that it’s colder in Japan, it’s not uncommon for our skin to feel parched, especially as the temperatures drop. Frequent washing and daily wear can also strip our hands of the natural oils they need to maintain healthy skin. This mixture can be used wherever your schedule takes you, from your office desk to a weekend trip. 

5. As Is

The simplest way to take CBD oil is to use a tincture and place a few drops under your tongue. Add it to your morning or nighttime routine or whenever you take your daily vitamins. 

Humacology

When using CBD oil, it’s important to use a trusted brand that prioritizes quality and consistency over time. Humacology, Australia’s number one CBD oil brand, is formulated by a team of phytochemists from the University of Athens. Grounding its CBD products in data-driven research and scientific standards. The brand is one of the few CBD oil companies in the country to be fully approved and meets Japan’s strict one-part-per-million THC limit requirement. 

Produced in Humacology’s facility in Greece, which operates to European pharmaceutical-grade GMP (Great Manufacturing Practice) standards, the brand guarantees that customers get precisely what they pay for. 

Long-term wellness isn’t about following the latest trends; it’s shaped by the daily choices you make over time. CBD oil is a simple way to boost your self-care routine that fits around your lifestyle, not the other way around.

You can purchase Humacology through Amazon, Qoo10 and at selected retailers like Yodobashi Camera. To view the full lineup, visit the official website at humacology.jp.

Approximately 14 million people live in Tokyo, so space is, understandably, at a premium. And if you look at the modern apartments in this bustling city, you’ll notice that most of them have a similar interior design—classic white walls, faux wood flooring and off-white bathrooms. Speaking of the latter, a Tokyo apartment bathroom is often compact, functional and (between us) a little monotonous. However, if you look closer, you will find beauty in monotony.

With a creative spirit, you can transform your small bathroom into a serene haven with these aesthetically pleasing products. Allow me to show you how!

Set The Vibe With Candles

Greetings from my Tokyo bathroom! As you can see, I’ve decorated the room with candles and artificial plants. I intended to create a space that would allow me to recharge and rejuvenate after a long day at work. The LED candles are from Ikea. I think they add a sense of coziness to the space. To create a spa-like experience at home, I often turn off my bathroom lights, play some lo-fi music and put these candles on while I indulge in a relaxing soak and sip on green tea.

• Price: ¥1,499 
• Buy: Ikea 

Add Sakura Petals To Your Bath

If you’re obsessed with Japanese cherry blossoms, then you will surely love this Sakura Bath Confetti from Loft. Sprinkle a handful into your bath and the water will slowly transform into a blissful shade of pink. It’s the perfect pick-me-up product when you’re feeling under the weather.

• Price: ¥350 
• Buy: Loft

Pamper Your Skin With Honey

This luxury body wash from Hacci is one of my favorites to use when I want to pamper myself. The mellow honey scent is soothing and it makes the skin feel smooth and smell delicious.

• Price: ¥4,950 
• Buy: Hacci

Mini Plants For The Win

I’m a big fan of artificial plants. They’re low maintenance and look like the real deal. I placed these cute succulents on my bathroom rack to add instant color to my plain white bathroom. It’s a minor detail that contributes to the overall low-key Zen aesthetic.

• Price: ¥299
• Buy: Ikea

Bathe With Yuzus

You don’t have to visit a sento (public bathhouse) to enjoy a yuzu bath. You can recreate the same experience at home! Yuzus are available throughout the year in Japan; you can buy them at supermarkets or order them online. Bathing with these aromatic citrus fruits will help melt away stress and elevate your mood.

Note: If you can’t find yuzu fruit at the supermarket, they also offer a bath salt versions.

• Price: ¥1,000 
• Buy: Amazon

Buff Away Those Dead Skin Cells

Most body scrubs in the market today are either too harsh or too fragrant. Some of them could even irritate your skin and cause it to flare up. This one from Sabon is the perfect product for sensitive skin. It is a cult favorite among Japanese women for its powerful scent. A bit pricey, but worth every yen! It contains almond and jojoba oil. Not only does it exfoliate your skin to perfection, but it also leaves your skin smelling divine.

• Price: ¥3,740 
• Buy: Sabon

Try Dry Brushing

Japanese washcloths are physical exfoliators made from nylon and polyester. You can use them with or without soap and water to cleanse your body. It is like dry brushing if you use them without water. Besides exfoliating the skin, dry brushing with this washcloth helps improve blood circulation, elevates your mood and makes your skin feel softer and smoother. Living in Tokyo, I’d recommend dry brushing once or twice a week.

• Price: ¥799 
• Buy: Amazon

Organize Your Bath Salts

Bath salts and tablets are readily available and affordable in Japan. I like to keep mine in this large bowl. You can also store them in baskets and mason jars. The idea is to spread them out to know how many are with you. Depending on the size of your bathroom, you can choose the container that is best suited to storing your bath products.

• Price: ¥1,430 
• Buy: Amazon

Invest In A Reed Diffuser

A reed diffuser in your bathroom will make the room smell fresh at all times. Unlike candles and electric diffusers, they don’t burn or require power to work. The one in the picture is from Daiso (yes, Daiso stores in Japan now sell reed diffusers as well!) If you’re looking for fresh scents in your bathroom, consider lavender, musk, eucalyptus, lemongrass, tea tree, citrus and rosemary. These scents will make you feel relaxed throughout the day.

• Price: ¥1,800
• Buy: Daiso

Bath Bombs For A Luxurious Soak

Lush is one of the best places to shop for bath bombs in Japan. While they offer a variety of them, keep an eye out for the ones exclusive to Japan. I recommend their Temple in the Sky bath bomb. It depicts a sparkly golden Japanese temple and has a fresh citrus scent. 

• Price: ¥920
• Buy: Lush (Japan Only)

I wrote this story to inspire you to transform your cozy Tokyo apartment bathroom space into a sanctuary. If you have more creative design ideas, please share them in the comments below. I’m excited to read yours!

Whether you celebrate Christmas, Hanukkah or Oshogatsu (Japanese New Year), this time of year is filled with holiday celebrations—and all the festive foods that go with it. In this Tokyo dietitian’s guide to festive feasting, I want to address a concern I hear every November and December from many of the patients who visit my office: how to balance meals in a way that allows them to enjoy their favorite holiday fare while still maintaining their health.

I completely understand their struggle, which is why I’m happy to share what I’ve learned through my work as a dietitian over the years. And before you start to worry that this will be another nutrition article suggesting you swap cauliflower into all your holiday recipes or warning about the dangers of sugar, let me reassure you that this is not that article.

Read on for tips on how to include balance and joy as you savor the season with these holiday eating dos and don’ts.

Healthy Holiday Eating Dos

Get Comfortable Living In The ‘Grey’

© Photo by iStock: AzmanJaka

Although many patients will tell me that they are an “all or nothing” kind of person and want to jump right in on a strict meal plan complete with lists of “good” and “bad” foods, the truth is that those types of diets or meal plans aren’t sustainable over long periods of time.

When I think of the patients who were most successful in making long-term dietary changes, they all shunned such rigid, “black and white” thinking and became adept at living in the space between severe restriction and complete abandonment of their nutritional goals. They didn’t live in fear of sweets and treats and were able to enjoy foods that were less nutrient dense—like dessert or alcohol—while still prioritizing ones that were.

This might look like having pizza with a large salad on the side or enjoying a lovely holiday lunch at a fancy restaurant, but planning a dinner filled with lots of vegetables, lean protein and whole grains that also taste delicious once back at home.

These types of patients never had to worry about “falling off the wagon” because they never got on it in the first place. They were patient with their progress and understood that the health or nutrition outcomes they wanted were only possible with time, consistency and making peace with food and eating.

Understand That Any One Meal, Snack Or Dessert Won’t Make Or Break Your Health

© Photo by iStock: PamelaJoeMcFarlane

Whenever a patient comes in panicking about an upcoming holiday meal or an outing like a bonenkai (end-of-year party), I find it’s often helpful to look at the bigger picture. Assuming you eat three meals a day, one meal is only 0.09% of your total food intake for the year.

So just like eating one salad won’t magically make all your health problems disappear, neither will enjoying one holiday meal. What you do consistently matters the most.

Offer To Bring Fruit Or Vegetable Dishes To Holiday Gatherings

© Photo by iStock: Elena_Fox

While I think you should enjoy your favorite holiday foods regardless of whether they’re nutritious or not (more on that later), you’d be surprised how appreciative people are if you bring a fruit or vegetable-filled side dish to a holiday party.

In the excitement over more decadent holiday dishes, fruits and vegetables often get overlooked. Yet in my experience, people are always happy to have them as part of their meal, and in many cases, it’s one of the first dishes to run out!

This time of year has amazing seasonal produce, such as mikan (orange), daikon, yuzu or komatsuna (Japanese spinach) that can be incorporated into dishes or salads that are sure to be a hit.

Appreciate Other Aspects Of The Holidays That Don’t Involve Food

© Photo by iStock: monzenmachi

Even though festive meals are a big part of the holidays, don’t let food and food anxiety overshadow the many other wonderful parts of the holiday season. From enjoying the holiday illuminations to visiting the shrine for hatsumode (first shrine visit of the year), the holidays aren’t just about eating—they are also about joy, connection and celebration.

Healthy Holiday Eating Don’ts

Don’t Skip Meals Before Holiday Gatherings Or Parties

© Photo by iStock: Prostock-Studio

“Saving up” calories before a big holiday meal or event almost always guarantees a binge. Plan to eat regular, nourishing meals instead.

Don’t Feel You Need To Make “Healthy” Versions Of Your Favorite Holiday Food

© Photo by iStock: JackF

There is nothing wrong with modifying a favorite holiday recipe to incorporate more nutrient-dense foods or to accommodate a dietary requirement, such as a dairy or gluten allergy. However, don’t feel like you must do that if what you really want is to enjoy the holiday meal or food as it is.

Research has shown that people who deprived themselves of their favorite foods—such as chocolate—not only experienced more cravings for the restricted food but also ended up eating more than those who didn’t restrict those foods in the first place.

So if what you really want is a piece of Christmas cake, don’t feel like you have to settle for some fruit or a sugar-free dessert instead—have the cake and enjoy it guilt-free!

Don’t Punish Yourself If You Overindulge In Food Or Drinks During The Holidays

© Photo by iStock: dolgachov

Avoid the temptation to restrict your food intake in response to overeating at a holiday event. Doing so only puts you in a binge and restrict cycle, since severe dietary restriction often results in overeating later due to feelings of deprivation and shame.

While it is okay to listen to your body and eat less food if you aren’t hungry at your next meal, punishing yourself by barely eating is counterproductive.

In the hustle and bustle of the holiday season, striking a balance between eating and celebrating can be challenging. Yet with the tips above and an extra serving of fruit and vegetables (sorry for the shameless fruit and veg plug but I am a dietitian after all!), you can start the new year healthy, happy and well nourished.

Republished for 2025.

Hey Hilary—I’m Rethinking Life in Japan

You probably receive emails like this all the time, but I’ve broken up with my Japanese boyfriend, and now I’m rethinking everything about my life, including whether to stay in Japan.

I’ve lived in Japan for eight years. My Japanese ex-boyfriend and I work in the same office together; I’ve known him for all eight years, but we only dated for two. Our office has no rules against dating coworkers, and he and I were able to keep our personal and work lives separate for the most part. I don’t want to get into the details of why we broke up, but it came down to wanting different things. We decided to go our separate ways but stay friends.

Now he ignores me at work and when we do have to interact, he’s cold and standoffish. I’m good at my job, and I haven’t had any issues with anyone before the break-up, but this month, for some reason, other coworkers have had complaints about my work.

I feel like he’s brought our break-up into work, and since I’m less senior there than he is, I get the feeling that people are hoping I’ll leave.

I’m starting to seriously consider leaving my job, and Japan as well. I couldn’t easily find another job in my industry, and I would still run the risk of having to interact with my ex and my current company. I could easily work in my industry in my home country and never interact with my ex-boyfriend again.

I’m unsure whether returning overseas makes sense, or if I should relocate within Japan, or stay at my current company until my visa expires. I guess my question is, what would you do in my position?

—Feeling Lost

Dear Feeling Lost,

You’ve been in Japan for some time, and you’ve experienced a significant change in a relationship, which has either directly or indirectly impacted your career as well. Understandably, you’d be feeling lost and conflicted about your future.

One of my favorite movie quotes comes from Olympia Dukakis’s character in Moonstruck: “Don’t s*** where you eat.” As you have unfortunately learned, and despite making it work for a few years, what happens between coworkers who turn into couples rarely stays out of the workplace.

While I can only take your word that your coworkers have never taken issue with your work, this sudden change in your perception in the office is telling. You know your ex best, so I would have to agree that, consciously or not, he has somehow influenced your coworkers against you.

Given that you’re now in a more hostile work environment, it also makes sense that you’d be considering leaving your current job. However, before you do, note this: if he is undermining your work, you may want to bring this to the attention of people higher up in the company.

Harassment of various kinds has become an increasingly pressing issue in Japan recently.

Harassment in the workplace is something the company would take seriously. According to top recruiting companies, your ex’s behavior could fall under power/moral harassment, which includes gossip, mental attacks and purposely excluding people and/or persuading others to do so.

You say that it wouldn’t be easy to find a new, similar position while in Japan, and you would likely still be in contact with your ex and current company.

• Would you feel comfortable still being in contact with him or the company?
• Could you separate what happened from your potential other employer?
• What do you stand to gain and lose if you were to change jobs (or even careers) in Japan?

Perhaps the more complicated question to answer:

• What would you stand to gain and lose if you were to move back to your home country?
• Would the pros outweigh the cons in the long term, or vice versa?

Another important question to consider:

• How much time do you have left on your visa?

If it’s a year or less, you might feel pressured to make decisions quickly, especially with the changing visa fees being discussed in the news these days. Don’t bow to that pressure; give yourself the time to consider your options carefully. Leaving Japan requires a lot of preparation, and if you rush into things, you might come to regret your decision in the long run.

If it’s more than a year, then I would suggest sticking it out for a month or two more at your current job. Things could settle down to relative normal again, or they might not. It’s essential to determine whether this is a temporary reaction on your coworkers’ part or if it is a sign that you should consider finding a new job. You need to know that you’re making the right decision for your career and future.

It’s nearly the end of the year, and I know things can feel more dire in this season, but you need to put yourself first and foremost. Take your time and make sure that you’re seeing things with clear eyes. You know you, so give yourself the grace to breathe, think and come to the right conclusions—best of luck.

Got a question you’d like to ask Hilary? Email it to askhilary@savvytokyo.com with the subject “Ask Hilary.”

There’s no denying that regular walks can help with a number of physical and mental health conditions. Sometimes, however, walking alone can feel tedious. If you are like me and need a goal to keep up a good habit, then perhaps you’d like to try collecting 御城印 (gojyoin; “castle stamps”).

What Are Gojyoin?

While Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples have goshuin (Japanese shrine and temple stamps), Japanese castles have gojyoin. Much like goshuin, gojyoin are sold at various castles around Japan. They can range in price from ¥300 to ¥ 1,000, although special, limited-edition ones for special events may cost more.

The castle stamps are made similarly to goshuin. Images or designs are stamped on washi paper, accompanied by the castle’s name and the date on the paper. Unlike goshuin, however, these papers are often prepared in advance (sometimes printed on a computer) and distributed in paper envelopes upon payment. You will likely have to write the date of your visit on it yourself, although some locations will do this for you instead.

The Origin Of Gojyoin

© Photo by iStock: MasaoTaira

Gojyoin got its start in 1990, when Matsumoto Castle in Nagano prefecture began selling ‘visitation certificates’ to those who came to the castle. They were somewhat popular, but the concept didn’t really gain traction until 2016. Around that time, Gujo Hachiman Castle in Gifu Prefecture (and others) announced that they were donating the proceeds from the sales of these stamps to aid earthquake relief efforts in Kumamoto Prefecture.

As of 2020, there are over 500 castles and historic remains that sell their own castle stamps.

Please note that, while similar, goshuin have somewhat sacred connotations (as they are proof of a pilgrimage in a sense), while gojyoin are more of a souvenir.

Getting Started With Gojyoin

© Photo by Pixta: daysgoby_JPN

First, you’ll need a 御城印帳 (gojyoincho), which is essentially the same sort of book as those for shrine stamps. In fact, some people collect both in the same book as souvenirs from their visits to particularly historically rich areas. However, this is a point of contention among collectors of both. They range in price from ¥1,000 to ¥2,500, while more elaborate or highly customized ones can be found in the ¥3,500 to ¥6,000 range.

Technically speaking, that’s all that you need—although a good pair of walking shoes is highly recommended. Unlike most shrines and temples, Japanese castles tend to be situated on mountains or high above the rest of the city, which often requires hiking. Dressing appropriately is key, as the last thing you want to do is end up with blisters and bruises.

How Do You Collect Gojyoin?

Gojyoin are not only sold at the castles themselves, but may be found in gift shops, tourist information centers or even at highway rest stops. That being said, these locations sometimes close earlier than the castle itself. If there is a stamp you really want to collect, plan ahead and arrive early.

Gojyoin Meguri

Much like with goshuin, you can also go on day trips to collect various castle stamps. There are plenty of books out there to help you get started, too. They’re often located in the domestic travel section of your favorite bookstore.

Sometimes you can even find magazines for specific historical areas or figures that include 御城印巡り (gojyoin meguri) or day trips and hikes that will take you to historical sites and castles where you can collect various gojyoin as well.

If you want to get started locally, then in Tokyo, you can collect gojyoin from the following sites:

• Ishihama Castle (石浜城): visit Ishihama Shrine; (Google Map Link); ¥300-¥500
• Shakujii Castle (石神井城): visit Patisserie Cache-Cache (Google Map Link); ¥300
• Nerima Castle (練馬城): visit Links For Hair Salon (Google Map Link); ¥300
• Takinogawa Castle (滝野川城): visit Love Live Lead Store Souvenir Shop (Google Map Link); ¥440
• Inatsuke Castle (稲付城): visit Love Live Lead Store Souvenir Shop (Google Map Link); ¥440
• Asukayama Castle (飛鳥山城): visit Love Live Lead Store Souvenir Shop (Google Map Link); ¥440

Anyone with a keen knowledge of Tokyo will have noticed that these castles aren’t technically here any longer, or only exist in the form of ruins. In order to collect these gojyoin, you’ll need to visit a shop or shrine near the former castle site.

Outside of Tokyo, there are numerous walking courses to choose from, offering far more options. Chiba Prefecture, for example, has over 100 castle sites with gojyoin. Plus, if you are traveling to check out new castles, you can also try some great B-kyu foods along the way.

If you’re looking for a good reason to get out and walk this winter, consider collecting gojyoin castle stamps.

There may be times in a person’s life when they need someone to talk to, and for many residents or expats seeking counseling in Tokyo, that moment can feel especially daunting. While friends, family and advice columns are all options, sometimes you need to hear an unbiased, professional opinion on a matter. Sometimes, the situation or emotions you’re experiencing are far too personal, too uncomfortable or perhaps even borderline illegal for anyone within your personal life to truly help with. It happens.

Talking to a professional is important. More people should do it, in fact. Individual counseling can help with a lot of different issues, be they stress, bereavement or seasonal issues. However, when you live in another country, language and cultural barriers can make it feel nearly impossible. And if you’re looking for couples counseling when you and your partner come from different cultural backgrounds and may not fully understand each other’s languages, that’s an even bigger hurdle.

Fortunately, in the Tokyo area, numerous professionals offer their services in English and other languages as well. If you search for clinics in Tokyo, you’ll find several that come up repeatedly—but whether or not these specialists are any good is the next question. You can’t always trust online reviews, nor should you, especially when it comes to your own mental health or the health of a relationship.

It can also be hard to ask others about counseling or therapists. There’s still a lot of stigma attached to mental health in both Japan and overseas, which can make it difficult even to approach the subject. With that said, if you are in need, you should reach out and get it for your own sake. You deserve to be your best self, regardless of what a partner, family or society says.

English Language Clinics

© Photo by iStock: Tero Vesalainen

While this is not a comprehensive list, these are the most widely approved and recommended counseling services in the Tokyo area as endorsed by individuals and mixed-ethnicity couples, Japanese couples and foreign couples living in Japan (about 80 people and 100 couples over 15 years).

Details of their services, fees and availability are found on their websites.

Tokyo Mental Health

• Location(s): Tokyo, Okinawa
• Online: Available
• Languages: English
• Couples counseling: Currently suspended

Bonds Tokyo Counseling Service

• Location(s): Setagaya Ward
• Online: Available
• Languages: English & Japanese
• Couples counseling: Available

Sky Counseling & Consultation Tokyo

• Location(s): Meguro Ward
• Online: Available
• Languages: English & Japanese
• Couples counseling: Available

Aoyama Bright Life Counseling Clinic

• Location(s): Minami Aoyama
• Online: Available
• Languages: English, Japanese, & Polish
• Couples counseling: Available

TELL Counseling

• Location(s): Tokyo and Okinawa
• Online: Available
• Languages: English, Japanese, Mandarin Chinese, Cantonese, Spanish; flyers available in Bahasa Indonesian & Spanish
• Couples counseling: Varies

Individual Specialists

If you would prefer to find your own specialist, there are two services available:

• International Mental Health Professionals Japan
• Japan Healthcare Info

English Only, Online Only Services

There are also many counseling options available online. Three of the most recommended services for couples counseling are Better Help, Talk Space and ReGain.  Details of their services, fees and availability can be found on their websites.

As these are overseas-based services, you may need to book appointments at late night or early morning Japan time to get the most out of them.

Japanese Language Only Clinics

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There are scores of Japanese language-only clinics to choose from, as well, for both individual and couples counseling. However, they do expect you to be able to communicate at a native or near-native level of Japanese. You may be required to prove proficiency in Japanese or bring a translator with you, otherwise. For individual counseling in Japanese, it is recommended that you consult with your primary healthcare professional for recommendations, as you may need a referral to schedule an appointment.

Some ward offices also offer individual and couples counseling services. Ask at your local ward office if they have any of these services or if there are any counseling services available in your ward as well—these may be covered by Japanese National Insurance.

In terms of couples counseling specifically, some Japanese clinics also offer services for international couples. That being said, you are expected to be a near native-level Japanese speaker in order to participate. If you are not but would be more comfortable with a Japanese counseling clinic, you may be required to hire your own translator first. You’ll need to discuss this with the clinics beforehand, as each has its own rules and requirements regarding translation services as well as any associated fees.

Mejiro Sola Clinic

• Location(s): Mejiro Station
• Online: Based on needs/circumstances
• Languages: Japanese, consult regarding translation services
• Couples counseling: Available

Hiroo Stress Clinic Psychiatry

• Location(s): Minato Ward
• Online: Available
• Languages: Japanese, consult regarding translation services
• Couples counseling: Available

Fufu Mondai Sodanshitsu Forte (Fufu Forte)

• Location(s): Shinjuku Ward
• Online: Available
• Languages: Japanese, consult regarding translation services
• Couples counseling: Only service provided

Domestic Violence & Other Helplines

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Sometimes the kind of help people need requires professional, perhaps police, assistance. If you are the victim of domestic violence or aren’t sure and want to talk to someone to get a better understanding of your situation, there are also ways to get help.

The Domestic Violence Hotline Plus is a phone, email and live chat service that began in response to the shocking increase in reported domestic violence incidents during the pandemic lockdowns. The helplines are available 24 hours a day. Telephone and email consultations are Japanese only, but chats are available in English, Chinese, Korean, Indonesian, Spanish, Portuguese, Tagalog, Thai and Vietnamese. Select the language that you require at the top of their homepage and follow the instructions provided.

Victims of sexual violence should consult the Sexual Violence Relief Center Tokyo (SARC) as soon as possible, as they can help you with the police and any medical needs on a 24-hour basis. 

The Yorisoi Hotline is a service dedicated to Japan’s foreign community, offering assistance with a range of issues, including visa concerns, domestic violence and international trafficking. This service is available in Japanese, English, Tagalog, Korean, Chinese, Spanish, Portuguese, Thai, Vietnamese, Nepali, Indonesian and other languages, although availability varies.

And, of course, if you need someone to talk to, TELL Lifeline is also available.

Finding the right kind of help can be challenging when you live abroad, but hopefully, with this counseling in Tokyo guide, you have a better idea of where to start.

Despite how much we bundle up, winter weather is never fun for our skin. Winter in Japan requires us to move between indoor and outdoor environments throughout the day, whether stepping out of a roasting train carriage onto an exposed platform, moving from a stuffy office to a coffee meeting or dragging ourselves from under the kotatsu (heated blanket table) for an outdoor run.

Repeated exposure to cold temperatures combined with low humidity levels results in extremely dry air, which can leave our skin parched, itchy and even cracked. Proper care is crucial to getting through the next few months—you’ll need to give your skin a little extra tender, loving care to counteract the effects of winter skin woes.

The good news is that there is a myriad of Japanese products and practices to help you maintain soft and glowing skin. Here are our top tips to keep you looking flawless and fire—no matter how cold it is!

1. Take A Warm (Not Hot) Bath

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When it comes to Japanese beauty and health secrets, taking warm baths is definitely a must-do. During cold nights, it’s hard to say no to a long, hot soak, but as the weather becomes cooler, it’s essential to ensure you don’t turn up the water temperature too high, as it will strip away the essential oils in your skin, resulting in even more damage. The best way to avoid this is to soak in water at a temperature of around 38-40°C for just 10 minutes.

The exception to this is natural onsen (hot springs), which are filled with specific minerals and other properties that counteract the drying effects of excessively hot water and are actually very beneficial for winter skin. If you can, schedule some me-time with a day trip to a nearby onsen; there are plenty of breathtaking resorts all over Japan.

2. Moisturize All Over While Damp

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During the winter months, it’s essential to allocate a little extra time to your bathing routine to thoroughly moisturize your body immediately after washing. Applying moisturizer to damp skin helps seal that moisture in and prevent your skin from drying out during the day.

But before you start, it’s essential to know what’s really in the product you’re using. Some active moisturizing ingredients to look out for include:

ヒト型セラミド (hitogata seramido; “human-type ceramide”)

Such as ceramide NP, ceramide AP and ceramide EOP: These mimic the skin’s own lipids and help repair and strengthen the barrier so moisture stays locked in. They are especially helpful if your skin feels tight or dehydrated.

ヘパリノイド (heparinoido; “heparinoid”)

A 医薬部外品 (iyakubugaihin; “quasi-drug”) ingredient that not only hydrates but also calms mild inflammation. It helps reduce itching and redness caused by dryness, making the skin more comfortable overall.

アミノ酸系保湿成分 (amino san-kei hoshitsu seibun; “amino acid moisturizing ingredients”)

Such as glycine, alanine and PCA-Na: These are part of the skin’s 天然保湿因子 (tennen hoshitsu inshi; “natural moisturizing factor”), which help skin hold onto water so it stays soft and plump.

エモリエント成分 (emoriento seibun; “emollient ingredients”)

Such as vaseline, squalane and shea butter: These form a thin protective layer on the skin’s surface to prevent water from evaporating. They are especially effective during winter when the air is dry.

Some body lotions and creams include 石油系成分 (sekiyu-kei seibun; “petroleum-based ingredients”) that may dry out the skin further in colder months. If you’re sensitive to these, look for products labeled オーガニック (ōganikku; “organic”) or オイルイン (oiru in; “oil-in”) for gentler, more nourishing formulas. These organic beauty stores offer a wide range of natural Japanese and imported products.

If you have very dry or sensitive skin, you should probably also choose products labeled:

• アルコール［エタノール］フリー (arukōru [etanōru] furī; “alcohol [ethanol]-free”)
• 無香料 (mukōryō; “fragrance-free”)
• 無着色 (muchakushoku; “coloring-free”)

For more skin care recommendations, explore our various articles for skincare tailored to your specific skin type.

3. Exfoliate But Don’t Scrub

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We often forget to help our skin slough off dead cells in the winter, particularly on our hands and feet. To truly maximize the effectiveness of your moisturizing routine, make sure a buildup of dead skin cells doesn’t block the areas you’re applying extra hydration to. This is why gentle exfoliation, about once or twice a week on the face, body, hands and feet, is so important.

When exfoliating, remember that friction can easily irritate sensitive skin in winter. Rubbing too hard puts unnecessary strain on the skin, accelerates dryness and weakens the barrier function, which can lead to rough or flaky patches. Any time you touch your skin, whether you’re cleansing, exfoliating or applying skincare, handle it as gently as you would a soft piece of tofu.

Choose an exfoliating mask or cream explicitly designed for the face, as these formulas are milder and better suited for colder months when your skin is more vulnerable.

Goodbye Keana’s baking soda wash strikes just the right balance between “scratching my face off” and “ooh, my pores are so clean.” However, if we’re recommending just one, opt for Cure Natural Aqua Gel for its proven gentle exfoliation and strong reputation in the J-beauty world.

Use it once or twice a week, depending on your skin sensitivity, and then follow immediately with the moisturizing routine above. You’ll feel noticeably smoother and refreshed—just in time for the new year.

4. Cover Up & Protect Your Skin

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Get into the habit of wearing gloves, scarves and hats to protect your skin from wind, rain and even snow. When choosing what to wear overall, opt for materials that don’t irritate the skin and reduce friction, which helps prevent dryness and other skin problems.

Friction and static electricity can damage the 角質層 (kakushitsu-sō; “outermost skin layer”), or the stratum corneum, which is the protective barrier that keeps moisture in and harmful substances out. Soft, natural fabrics like cotton, silk or baby alpaca will feel gentle against the skin. They’re also the best choice for items that come into direct contact with your skin, such as masks or underwear.

Winter SPF Is Crucial!

Don’t forget to continue your usual sun protection routine even in the colder months. Winter sunshine can be just as damaging—if not more—than the summer sun. Skiers and snowboarders beware: Reflection from those icy slopes can be significantly worse than simply being out and about in the city, so a waterproof SPF 50+ sunscreen is highly recommended.

As for clothing recommendations, we recently introduced a list of sustainable fashion brands in Japan that use natural materials, so be sure to check that out as well.

5. Humidify Your Home

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Winter heating can make indoor air painfully dry, which dries out your skin and hair faster than you’d think. Using a humidifier or essential oil diffuser is an easy way to add moisture back into the air. It will not only keep your skin soft and vibrant, but it may also help you avoid getting sick. Have a partner who snores? Humidity may also be the solution to that particular problem as well.

Aim for a room humidity of 40 to 60 percent. Low humidity can dry out your skin, while excessive moisture can cause sweat, disrupt your skin’s natural balance and even encourage mold growth. On that note, you’ll also want to keep your home temperature around 20 to 25 degrees Celsius, as being too cold can slow blood circulation, and being too hot can trigger excess oil production.

If you’re currently low on funds and can’t afford a whole new machine, there are also some very simple natural ways to boost humidity in your home:

• Dry your towels and laundry indoors: Ensure there is sufficient space for air to circulate, and consider using an antibacterial detergent for indoor use to help prevent odors.
• After bathing, leave the bathroom door open to let the extra steam flow into the room: Be mindful of condensation or mold. You may also want to skip this one in terms of safety if you have any small children.
• Have nabe (hot pot) for breakfast, lunch and dinner: Having a pot of nabe simmering will naturally release some moisture into the air; a herbal simmer pot works just as well, too!

6. Stay Hydrated

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During the winter months, it’s easy to forget to drink enough fluids as we opt for plenty of warm drinks like cocoa, coffee and tea. Remember that your skin needs to be hydrated from the inside out, so carry a water bottle with you wherever you go.

Not sure how much water you should drink per day? According to Dr. Sawako Hibino, a physician and dermatologist, as well as the general director of Sawako Clinic x YS, “you should ideally drink around one and a half to two liters per day, but the specific amount varies depending on your age and weight.”

Here’s how to calculate it:

Your Weight (kg) x (*) = Daily fluid requirement (mL)
*Under 30 years old: 40mL; 30-55 years old: 35mL; 56 years old or older: 30mL

For example, if you’re in your 20s and weigh around 60kg (60kg x 40mL), you’ll need to drink around 2,400mL. A 40-year-old at the same weight (60kg x 35mL) would need 2,100mL, and someone in their 60s at the same weight will only need 1,800mL.

If that sounds like a lot, keep in mind that the amount also includes fluids you get from food, so you don’t necessarily need to drink the whole amount in water. If you prefer hot beverages, opt for green tea or, even better, matcha, as it’s high in catechins, which are naturally occurring antioxidants that also possess anti-inflammatory and anticancer properties.

Try to consume as much of the fluids in the morning and during the first half of your day, as this is the body’s prime time for detoxification and fluid elimination.

7. Take In The Right Nutrients

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Eating well during winter isn’t just about staying healthy; it’s one of the best ways to keep your skin glowing from the inside out. A solid winter skincare routine should really start on your plate, and, luckily, Japan has so many meals that naturally incorporate many nutrient-dense ingredients.

Ever wondered how so many people, especially elderly women, in Japan tend to have such young, healthy-looking skin? If you ask them their secret, many would advise that it all begins with their diet.

From seasonal produce at your local supermarket to traditional staple Japanese superfoods like natto, miso, seaweed, tofu and a wide range of fresh winter vegetables, everyday meals here are built around balance and variety. To keep your skin hydrated and resilient, make sure you’re getting the proper nutrients throughout the season.

Here are the key vitamins to focus on and what to eat to get them naturally:

Vitamin A

Helps protect the skin and mucous membranes.

• What to eat: liver, unagi (eel), egg yolks, kabocha (Japanese pumpkin), spinach, carrots, sweet potato and other green and yellow vegetables

Vitamin E

Prevents lipid oxidation and supports smoother, more supple skin.

• What to eat: almonds, sunflower seeds and other nuts, vegetable and sesame oil, avocado, spinach, salmon and mackerel

Vitamin B2

Supports healthy skin cell turnover.

• What to eat: liver, natto, eggs, skim milk or yogurt, liver, wakame, nori, shiitake mushrooms, soba (buckwheat) noodles

Vitamin C

Essential for collagen production and overall skin strength.

• What to eat: persimmons, lemons, mandarin oranges, yuzu, strawberries, kiwis, broccoli, bell peppers, daikon and other greens and yellow vegetables

Don’t Forget Protein!

Think of protein as your skin’s construction team—constantly repairing, rebuilding and supporting the structure that keeps everything smooth, firm and resilient. Since our bodies are composed of roughly 20 percent protein, it plays a significant role in maintaining healthy skin.

It supports collagen production, strengthens the skin’s natural barrier and helps your complexion bounce back from dryness and external irritation.

If you read our summer feature on natsubate (summer fatigue), you’ll recall how different ingredients can warm or cool the body according to Eastern holistic nutrition principles. In winter, warming—or yang—foods take center stage.

Most protein sources like fish, meat and soy-based dishes fall into this category, helping keep your circulation flowing. Better circulation means your skin gets the nutrients it needs to stay supple, not flaky.

• What to eat: Fish, chicken, pork, tofu, eggs, miso, edamame, mackerel, whitebait, soy milk

If your schedule is packed (and let’s be honest, whose isn’t?), you may not always hit every nutrient naturally. In that case, adding supplements or daily vitamins can help fill in the gaps—preferably as a last resort, though.

8. Take Advantage Of Japan’s Winter Beauty Gadgets

© Photo by ATEX

From mini steamers to heated insoles, these innovative tools in Japan don’t just keep you cozy—they actively support circulation, boost hydration and help your skincare products work harder. Think of it as giving your skin a warm hug from the inside out. Even better? Many of these gadgets are affordable, easy to use at home and feel very luxurious after a long, chilly day.

We actually have an article that lists a variety of unique Japanese goods to warm you up this winter, so be sure to check it out. And if you’re after even weirder yet wonderful Japanese beauty gadgets, we have those covered too.

9. Get Your Beauty Rest

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Of all the winter skincare tips, this one might be the easiest to overlook: good sleep is genuinely one of the best beauty treatments you can give yourself. When you sleep well, your body releases growth hormone, which supports healthy cell turnover—essentially helping your skin repair, renew and stay resilient.

When you don’t get enough rest, cortisol can rise, disrupting the turnover of your skin’s protective outer layer. This can reduce sebum production, weaken the skin barrier and leave your complexion looking dull or irritated.

And like some other tips on this list, this advice isn’t unique to Japan either. Japan does, however, make it easier to put into practice with various products, similar to the ones mentioned above, designed for nighttime relaxation. You’ll find a huge range of fun and genuinely effective sleep-supporting products at most variety shops and drug stores for a heavenly night’s sleep.

Aim for seven to eight hours of restful sleep to improve blood circulation and promote skin regeneration.

10. Time To Relax (& Maybe Get A Beauty Treatment)

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Relaxation isn’t just a luxury; it’s one of the most underrated essentials for healthy skin. When you’re stressed, your body produces more cortisol, which can slow down cell turnover, weaken the skin barrier and make dryness even worse. Taking time to decompress can have a visible, almost immediate effect on how your skin feels and looks.

Begin with simple, at-home habits that naturally help your body unwind, allowing your nervous system and complexion to reset:

• A warm bath before bed (remember—38 to 40 degrees for 10 minutes)
• Gentle stretching or yoga
• Deep breathing exercises
• Using some Japanese essential oils
• Sipping a herbal tea
• Five quiet minutes with your phone on airplane mode

Truly Treat Yourself

If you want to take it one step further, winter is an ideal time to consider a professional beauty treatment. Of course, it’s completely optional, but a session at a salon can help revive dull, dehydrated skin while giving you the kind of deep relaxation that’s hard to replicate at home. Plus, letting someone else massage away the tension while applying hydrating masks and warm towels is a pretty blissful way to spend an afternoon during the cold winter season.

Beauty salons across Japan offer special winter menus designed to combat seasonal dryness, from moisture-rich facials to aromatherapy treatments. If you’re curious to try one, check out our list of the best beauty salons in Tokyo, or try a Japanese beauty booking app like Hot Pepper Beauty or Rakuten Beauty to book something nationwide.

We hope you can keep your skin happy, hydrated and radiant all season long. Ready to put these tips into action? Start small by trying one ritual today and see the difference for yourself!

This article, originally by Emi Schemmer, has been updated with additional information by The Savvy Team for 2025.

Japan has a reputation for being one of the loneliest countries in the world, and many newcomers search for advice on how to navigate feeling alone in Japan. With long working hours and social schedules that rarely overlap, it’s easy to understand why isolation is so common.

When I first lived here, I worked a contract playing piano and singing six nights a week at a Hakone resort. I met many kind and thoughtful people, yet my schedule and limited Japanese skills made it challenging to establish genuine day-to-day connections.

Loneliness is such a powerful and widespread emotion that several countries now treat it as a public health issue. The UK appointed a Minister of Loneliness back in 2018. Japan followed in 2021, naming its first Minister for Loneliness and Isolation, Tetsushi Sakamoto, in response to rising suicide rates and pandemic-related challenges. The position is currently held by Junko Mihara, who has served in the role for the past year.

Recent OECD data shows that around 10 percent of people in Japan have no social interaction outside their family. In other words, you’re truly not alone in feeling alone. The good news is that even small steps can make a meaningful difference.

Here are my personal tips for meeting new people, building community connections and experiencing all the incredible things Japan has to offer.

1. Invite Your Co-workers Out After Work

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The joy of being in Japan is that there are endless opportunities for fun—and for those in the city, everything is open late. Getting the chance to get to know your co-workers outside of work is undoubtedly a great way to create, strengthen and maintain new friendships.

The good news is that in Japan, post-work drinks or nomikai (drinking parties) are practically a part of the job, so you shouldn’t have much trouble persuading your colleagues to join you.

My Personal Recommendation

Music lovers in Tokyo should head to Shibuya’s Dogenzaka on a Tuesday night for Ruby Room’s famed open mic night, where a mixture of locals, ex-pats and travelers will entertain you. Given the intimate setting of the bar, it’s a golden opportunity to strike up a conversation with someone—if they don’t beat you to it!

You should also check out Savvy Tokyo’s food archives for more cool places to visit after dark with your (hopefully) new friends.

2. Discover New Passions Through Volunteering

Volunteering in Tokyo can be a great way to give back to the community, make new friends and appreciate the things you have to be grateful for. Working alongside other volunteer staff who are passionate about changing the world for the better will not only give you all the good feels, but you’ll be a part of a community where you’re all working towards one collective goal. And nothing brings people closer together than that.

My Personal Recommendation

For those who are slightly more introverted but love animals, the Animal Life Matters Association (ALMA) is accepting volunteers for both administrative tasks and caring for the cats and dogs, including cleaning cages, preparing meals and walking dogs. The website is in Japanese, but you can access the volunteering form here.

3. Endorphins Make You Happy—Exercise!

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It’s all too easy to stay under the covers with a good Netflix drama, but if you dig deep and get up and at ‘em, your mind and body will thank you. If a standard gym session isn’t your cup of tea, I highly recommend a boxing class for an intense and not-your-everyday workout.

Other options include joining a local sports team or a running club, allowing you to make friends while exercising. You can easily find various English-speaking sports groups on platforms like Meetup.

My Personal Recommendation

I personally enjoy attending the B-Monster group-taught boxing classes, which are held in a dark room illuminated by colorful LED lights. The idea is to “refresh yourself both physically and mentally as if you were dancing in a club”—you’ll be having too much fun partying that you’ll forget you’re working out!

For a gentler workout, practice your namastes at one of these English-friendly yoga classes in Tokyo. Everyone, from beginners to super flexible yogis, is welcome.

4. Go To A Japanese Class

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Perhaps the most obvious point is the inability to speak Japanese—it is automatically isolating to a certain degree. Self-study is all well and good, but only another student studying the language can understand the arduous journey of learning Japanese.

The power of shared learning is not to be underestimated. I personally learned more Japanese in a single month of classes compared to months of self-study. And best of all, an environment like a classroom is the perfect place to meet others working hard toward the same goal.

My Personal Recommendation

If you’re like me and prefer flexible classes that don’t break the bank, I can recommend Coto Japanese Academy. Aside from the textbook material they provide, they teach Japanese words and phrases commonly heard in everyday situations, such as at convenience stores or train stations.

Simply being able to recognize a few sounds and kanji characters can go a long way; you’ll start feeling like you’re a part of the world around you. GaijinPot Study is also a valuable resource for finding a language school that offers courses tailored to your specific needs.

5. Take A Solo Trip 

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Being lonely isn’t always caused by the absence of interaction. Instead, it’s how you feel about those interactions. If you’ve ever gone out with a group of people, yet felt disconnected, you’ll know what I’m talking about.

One of the best aspects of Japan is its incredible safety and ease of travel. How is this possible? Enter Japan’s railway system. Hop on a train, throw on some earbuds and make the mental shift from “lonely” to “solo day-tripper”. With countless historical monuments, mountains, natural hot springs and an entire ocean only a hop and a skip away from most areas in Japan, there’s no better place to pursue your inner wanderlust.

My Personal Recommendation

There are a number of easy-to-get-to and totally #worthit spots in and around Tokyo that I love: Hakone for a dip in Japan’s famous onsens, Enoshima for those missing the beach or in search of a spa day, Kamakura to catch historical views of the massive Daibutsu or Ibaraki prefecture to catch the final colors of fall.

Feel proud of yourself for taking a chance on something—whether it’s a job, a relationship or your own desire to be in Japan—you took the leap and made it happen. You can get through this.

Further Resources

Loneliness can be debilitating and lead to other mental health issues. There are several places you can reach out to if you feel you need professional support.

• Tokyo Counseling Services offers counseling and therapy services in multiple languages to all residents of Tokyo.
• TELL (Tokyo English Lifeline) is a wonderful organization that provides 24-hour support for mental health.
• The Japan Helpline provides information and resources for areas across the country, covering a wide range of topics, including medical assistance and other emergencies.

Have you felt alone in Japan before? How did you deal with it? Let us know in the comments.

This article has been republished for 2025.

In the early 2000s, Japanese writer Yumiko Sugiyama wondered what marriage in Japan would look like if couples could gain the freedom they desired without getting divorced. Her efforts culminated in her 2004 book, Sotsukon no Susume (Recommending the Graduation from Marriage), about the concept of sotsukon.

The word sotsukon is a combination of the Japanese words for 卒業 (sotsugyo; graduation) and 結婚 (kekkon; marriage). It’s used to describe a couple that stays legally married but lives their own life independent of their spouse.

To Western sensibilities, that may be a puzzling explanation. Isn’t marriage supposed to be two people living happy lives together in the first place?

The difference comes from the very strict roles traditionally prescribed to husbands and wives in Japanese marriages. As Sugiyama explained in an interview with CNN:

“In Japan, traditionally, the man is the head of the household. The wife lives under his financial support as a domestic worker.“

Fearing Hubby’s Retirement

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Most older Japanese women end up playing the role of maid or mother while their husbands dedicate themselves to work. This role is typically so hands-on that many husbands have no idea where their own underpants are stored. The wife would always supply them when needed. Consequently, many wives fear the day that their husbands retire from work and will require their services all day, every day.

This fear was reflected in one of the first surveys of public interest in sotsukon. It was conducted in 2014 by the architecture agency Interstation. 200 married Japanese women, ranging from their 30s to late 60s, were asked whether they were interested in eventually shifting to sotsukon. Of the 200 wives, 56.8% said they were.

When those women were then asked when they wanted to make that change, the most popular answer, at 35%, was when they are 60 to 65 years old—right in line with when their husbands are due to retire.

Why Do Wives Want Sotsukon?

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The reasons the respondents gave for wanting sotsukon typically reflected their desire to enjoy their lives, no longer subjected to the needs of their husbands and children. Some responses included:

“I want each of us to pursue our own dreams while we still have the good health to do so.”

“I want time to myself without the bother of having to report my actions to my husband.”

“Now that our children are adults, I want to do all the things that I’ve wanted to do, but held myself back from.”

“I want to be freed from housework.”

“I love my husband, but living together in the same house all the time, we take each other for granted. Living apart would make us appreciate and like each other more.”

The Different Styles Of Sotsukon

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One of the key aspects of sotsukon is its flexibility. Some couples continue to live in the same house but do their own cooking and cleaning like housemates. Others choose to live in separate homes but meet regularly for dates, to chat, or to help each other with work or chores.

Unlike divorce, sotsukon does not involve legal procedures. It makes it a cheaper, easier way to create space in a marriage. Couples can also easily return to their former lifestyle, and as old age approaches, it is reassuring to have a formal connection to someone who will help look after you when needed.

Women are generally more enthusiastic about sotsukon. A slightly more recent study, conducted by the Meiji Yasuda Research Institute, found that women view sotsukon more favorably than men. The survey was conducted online in June 2018 and answered by 12,000 Japanese men and women aged 40 to 64.

The Positive View

Across all age groups, both men and women had a majority of at least a somewhat optimistic view of the idea of sotsukon. The percentage rose from 51.5% for men aged 40 to 44 years old, to 61.4% for those aged 60 to 64. The figures for women started at 69.3% for those aged 40 to 44 and increased to 78.7% in the oldest group.

The high rates of these figures suggest that, while some of us will continue to have fulfilling marriages throughout our lives, most of us recognize that the expectations we have maintained will eventually no longer serve our best interests. You can either “graduate” to a new phase together or end the relationship.

The same survey also looked at the popularity of divorce and found it lagging far behind sotsukon. It asked married respondents if they had considered divorcing their partner when either of them retired. Among those with children, 19.6% of men said they had, while 28.1% of women said so. For those without children, 11.1% of men had considered a future divorce, while 13.3% of women had.

The Disadvantages

For sotsukon to be successful, couples need to be open and honest about what they want from the relationship. Finances are one particular area that needs to be predetermined. Will one person fund the other’s daily needs, or will they each pay their own? Who will pay off the home loan?

While divorce ensures particular financial rights to each party, and the civil code requires that a dependent spouse’s daily needs are taken care of, sotsukon relationships leave these decisions uncertain. It’s a good idea for couples seeking sotsukon to discuss these issues with a lawyer or financial advisor in advance to avoid any conflict later.

Furthermore, newfound space between couples has the potential to lead to new romances. Would that qualify as infidelity and lead to actual divorce?

Redefining Married Life

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Unlike divorce, sotsukon is for couples who want to maintain a connection. These couples typically still like each other, or they at least don’t dislike each other.

At first glance, cases of sotsukon, where a couple shares the same house, seem similar to the much older Japanese concept of 家庭内別居 (kateinai bekkyo), which means living apart within the same household. This is more for married couples who genuinely dislike each other but stay together for financial reasons. Some couples in this situation even set a schedule for kitchen and bathroom usage so they don’t accidentally run into each other. Others go the extra effort by renovating their house so the couple each have their own areas fit with a kitchen, bathroom and bedroom.

While that situation reeks of bad vibes, sotsukon is a positive idea that gives couples sufficient space to live the life they want without regrets and compromise. It’s a beautiful thing to give yourself and your partner.

Of course, married life shouldn’t stop anyone from living that way to begin with. However, in Japan, people take their social roles very seriously. Perhaps it’s necessary to maintain the social cohesion that we enjoy here. Internalized pressure to perform those roles the “right” way is very strong. It’s heartening that older generations are starting to teach Japan that the truly right way is one’s own way.

Have you heard of sotsukon before? What do you think of this kind of marriage arrangement?

It’s almost time to put on your koyo (autumn foliage) caps and embrace another change in season. But where to go? Kyoto and Hokkaido offer splendid autumn sights, but if you can’t travel that far, there are several unique spots right here in Tokyo. This list guides you to some rather well-known, highly frequented, classic spots—but also to some semi-secret, uncharted locales that you may not have enjoyed the colorful season at before.

1. Rikugien Gardens

© Photo by iStock: Hiro1775

Located a short walk (or skip if you’re excited) from Komagome Station, Rikugien Gardens—well known as a top cherry blossom viewing spot, too—don’t skip out on the koyo. In addition to beautiful bridges, colorful trees, and the old Edo vibe, these gardens are renowned for their autumn night light-ups. This year’s illumination is from November 28 to December 9th, beginning at 6 p.m. and finishing at 8:30 p.m. Don’t miss those colors!

• When to go: Mid-November through early December
• Getting there: A 10-minute walk from Komagome Station (Yamanote and Namboku lines) or Sengoku Station on the Mita line.
• Information: Open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. ¥300 entrance fee for adults. (Night light up entry ticket: ¥1,200)

2. Tonogayato Teien Gardens

© Photo by Pixta: SUYA

Worth a trip to Kokubunji? Yes. A thousand times. Type the name of this garden into Google images and you’ll see why. Complete with garden tunnels, secluded pathways, bamboo forests and a lovely koi pond, Tonogayato Garden is only a 20-minute Chuo rapid line ride away from the fast-paced, concrete jungle of Shinjuku. An escape if there ever was one.

• When to go: Late November through early December
• Getting there: 2-minute walk from Kokubinji Station on the JR Chuo line.
• Information: Open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. ¥150 entrance fee for adults.

3. Icho Namiki (Ginkgo Avenue)

© Photo by iStock: tawatchaiprakobkit

If yellow is your color, especially after all the reds you’ll see from maples elsewhere, Icho Namiki, otherwise known as Ginkgo Avenue, is a must-see, must-go-to koyo location. Icho Namiki is not a park or a garden, but a street lined with tall ginkgo trees on either side. Located near both Gaienmae and Aoyama-Itchome Stations, this spot is easy to find and has been crowned one of the top koyo spots in Tokyo and Japan according to a local autumn foliage website for years. The annual Icho Namiki festival is also a must-see—it runs from the end of November through early December. If you work in central Tokyo, most probably you’ll just happen to catch sight of it during your autumn morning commute. Breathe in that yellow!

• When to go: Mid-November through early December
• Getting there: 2 Kitaaoyama, Minato-ku. A few minutes walk from Aoyama-itchome and Gaienmae Stations.
• Information: Open year-round. No entrance fee.

4. Yoyogi Park

© Photo by iStock: YUJISTYLE

The best place to chill year-round? Yoyogi Park. Bring a group of friends, a French bulldog, some blankets, a six-pack of cider and pop a squat for some momijigari (autumn leaves viewing). Of the places in Tokyo to see foliage, this is a place where you can kick back and take it all in at your own pace. Yoyogi Park, for those of you not in the know, is about a five-minute walk from Harajuku Station. Keep a day or two open this fall for an impromptu koyo sesh.

• When to go: Late November through early December
• Getting there: A few minutes walk from Harajuku, Yoyogi koen and Yoyogi-hachiman Stations.
• Information: Open year-round. No entrance fee.

5. Koishikawa Korakuen

© Photo by iStock: magicflute002

Right next door to Tokyo Dome, this garden is worth visiting any time of the year, but it’s really autumn that brings out the most splendid sights of it. Created in the early Edo Period, the garden has a number of manmade hills, ponds, bridges, paths and viewing points, highlighting the golden yellow leaves of its gingko trees, along with the varied shades of orange and red on the maple trees. A wonderful destination for a romantic autumn walk or a day out with the whole family.

• When to go: Mid-November through early December
• Getting there: A few minutes walk from Iidabashi Station on the Oedo, JR lines and Tokyo subway or Korakuen Station.
• Information: Open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. ¥300 entrance fee for adults.

6. Showa Kinen Park

© Photo by iStock: kitchakron

Tachikawa’s Showa Memorial Park is heaven for family outings at any given time of the year: there’s flower viewing, picnicking, playing sports, barbecuing, water play and so much more. But when autumn kicks in, the park transforms into a breathtaking location for an afternoon walk through the splendid colors of all forms and kinds. Enjoy the autumn by renting a bike and cycling around some of the park’s 14 kilometers of paths, or rent a paddleboat and watch the yellow, red and orange trees from the lake. One of Tokyo’s best-kept secrets, this park will never disappoint, especially in autumn.

• When to go: Early November through late November
• Getting there: A few minutes walk from Nishi Tachikawa Station on the JR Ome line.
• Information: Open from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. ¥450 entrance fee for adults.

7. The University of Tokyo

© Photo by iStock: oasis2me

Created in 1906, the University of Tokyo’s beautiful ginkgo avenue is lined with trees transplanted from the Koishikawa Botanical Garden. Originally, ginkgo trees weren’t commonly used for street landscaping, so they were pretty unique at the time. As it was lengthened over the years, even more ginkgo trees were added, and by the time Yasuda Auditorium was completed at the end of the avenue in 1925, the project was finally realized. A stroll down this avenue in the fall is definitely a must-do!

• When to go: Late-November to early-December
• Getting there: A 10 to 15-minute walk from Nezu, Hongo-sanchome or Todaimae Stations.
• Information: Open year-round. No entrance fee.

8. Otaguro Park

© Photo by iStock: magicflute002

This beautiful Japanese garden, located in Suginami Ward, was developed in 1981 on the former home of music critic Otaguro Motoo. The rows of ginkgo trees and over 100-year-old maples are absolutely stunning when they change colors! Don’t miss the charming Western-style building that Otaguro built as his workroom back in 1933. It’s now a memorial museum, and you can see things like his cherished 1900 Steinway piano. This park is the perfect mix of nature and history.

• When to go: Late-November to mid-December
• Getting there: A 10-minute walk from Ogikubo Station.
• Information: Open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on Wednesdays & the end of the year. No entrance fee.

9. Shinjuku Gyoen

© Photo by iStock: tupungato

A popular destination for locals and tourists, Shinjuku Gyoen is a breathtaking, vast garden that, in our modest opinion, is most splendid when colored in red. Take a stroll through the park’s endless alleys, have a rest on a bench and enjoy this vivid natural scene that is beyond gorgeous. Though Shinjuku Gyoen has three different gardens—English, French and Japanese—the autumn leaves are particularly stunning in the Japanese garden and Momijiyama (maple mountain) on the park’s eastern side.

• When to go: Mid-November to mid-December
• Getting there: Shinjuku Gyoen or Shinjuku Station.
• Information: Open from 7:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Closed on Mondays & the end of the year. ¥500 entrance fee for adults.

10. Kuhonbutsu Joshin Temple

© Photo by Pixta: kazukiatuko

Feel a sense of calm wash over you as you walk through the Niomon Gate, entering the Kuhonbutsu Joshin Temple. As you explore the temple grounds, you can take your time soaking in the beautiful autumn leaves alongside classic temple scenery. It’s the kind of place where you can just unwind and appreciate nature’s beauty and spirit. Honestly, you can start enjoying the autumn vibes right after you step out of Kuhombutsu Station! It’s a hidden gem you won’t want to miss this fall.

• When to go: Late-November to early-December
• Getting there: A few minutes walk from Kuhombutsu Station.
• Information: Open from 6 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. No entrance fee.

A Few Bonus Autumn Foliage Locations Near Tokyo

Bonus 1: Sankeien Garden (Yokohama)

© Photo by iStock: kanzilyou

Think bridges, maples, ponds, historic buildings and a Kyoto vibe. This traditional Japanese garden in Yokohama is beautiful in any season but especially vibrant in autumn. The inside of the houses is open to the public, so you can feel free to take a peek and submerge yourself in the historic site. Accessible by bus from JR Yokohama Station and JR Negishi Station, this location is ideal for those seeking some happy Edo inspiration.

• When to go: Mid-November through Mid-December
• Getting there: At Yokohama Station, take bus Route No. 8 or 148 at bus platform No. 2. Get off at Sankeien-iriguchi (about a 35-minute ride) and then walk to the garden (5 minutes).
• Information: Open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. ¥900 entrance fee for adults.

Bonus 2: Chichibu Tama-Kai National Park (Saitama)

© Photo by iStock: nabe133

A lot of trees. A lot of autumn leaves. The folks in Saitama are familiar with the spoils of this lovely national park. For those in Tokyo, this is a simple day trip away. Because this park is huge, there is a lot to do—even nearby mountains to hike, such as Mt. Mitsumine and Mount Mitake—both of which have beautiful shrines at their summits. Also in the area is the Nagatoro Valley, a beautiful locale famous for its foliage reflections in the Arakawa River. If boats are your thing, you can even drift downstream in one.

P.S. Beware of cute bears!

• When to go: Mid-November through early December
• Getting there: A bit of a walk from Chichibu, Okutama or Enzan Stations.
• Information: Open year-round. No entrance fee.

Bonus 3: Gora (Hakone)

© Photo by iStock: thanyarat07

Hakone claims to have the best autumn colors in Japan, and while we thought the glorious spot belonged to Kyoto, a walk through Gora is enough to persuade you that they’re not joking. Start your autumn journey at Lake Ashinoko, then stop by Sengokuhara, where you can enjoy the colors as you play golf or relax in an onsen, then head to Gora and Kowakudani, the natural hot springs resort.

The ultimate autumn view, however, is at Gora’s Hakone Museum of Art, where the leaves are reflected in every object, pond and bamboo tree in the museum’s vast garden. If that’s not enough, find your way toward the nearby Hakone Gora Park, a spot where you can enjoy the autumn colors while sipping a traditionally brewed cup of hot green tea.

• When to go: Mid-November to late November
• Getting there: From Hakone Yumoto Station, take the Hakone Tozan Railway to Gora Station.

Koyo doesn’t last forever, so be sure to catch it before it “leaves!”

For the best autumn foliage spots in other parts of Japan, see this article, and if you have any other recommendations within Tokyo, let us know via the comments!

This article has been updated with the latest information for 2025.