If you’re a tropical girl like me, hitting the slopes can seem terrifying at first. Fear not! Japan is legendary in ski circles because of Japow (Japanese powder snow). These conditions make gliding on the slopes feel so effortless, like floating on a cloud. Not to mention, Japan’s snow resorts are very affordable compared to other places in the world. Here’s what you need to know about skiing in Japan, from where to go, how much it costs and what to expect

Where to Ski in Japan

If you’re a total novice when it comes to winter sports in Japan, choose ski resorts with lots of green/beginner slopes. These are gentle and wide, making it less likely that you’ll bump into other learners. Many also feature “magic carpets” (conveyor belts), which make going up and down the course a breeze. There are also nets on the edges to catch you if you run off course.

Here are some well-known Japanese ski resorts that are great for newbies.

• Tambara Ski Park (Gunma)
• Karuizawa Prince Hotel Ski Resort (Nagano)
• Meiho Ski Resort (Gifu)
• Iwappara Snow Resort (Niigata)
• Kuju Shinrin Koen Ski Resort (Oita)
• Grandeco Snow Resort (Fukushima)
• Snow Park Yeti (Shizuoka)

How Much Does Skiing in Japan Cost?

If you do your research, winter sports don’t have to cost a fortune. Getting to the ski resort, however, can be a major deal-breaker. If you have to fly there, the cost is going to rack up. Consider Tambara in Gunma for a quick and easy day trip. Karuizawa Prince Hotel is also within walking distance of the shinkansen (bullet train) station. 

Lift tickets can run from ¥4,000 and up. Renting ski or snowboard equipment can cost ¥ 4,000 or more. To rent a full ski suit, set aside at least ¥3,000. Sign up for a package deal to save that precious yen: transport to the resort, ski lift ticket and gear rental in one.

Don’t forget to include locker and meal fees (you’re likely to be ravenous after a couple of hours sliding in the snow). 

Top tip: Learn from the pros at an accredited ski school. If your Japanese isn’t fabulous, sign up for classes that offer multilingual instruction. Classes can be one-on-one or in small groups, so choose according to your needs or budget. 

What Should I Wear?

Snow resorts are chilly, so bundle up! The key is to dress in stretchy, non-bulky layers. Your base layer should be something quick-dry and warm, like a heat-tech/wool thermal top and bottom. The second layer can be a high-neck midweight fleece or sweatshirt. Your third layer should be a windproof and waterproof ski jacket and ski bottoms to keep the snow out. To keep your feet warm, ski socks or knee-high winter socks are essential. 

Since COVID-19, you can no longer rent small items that come into close contact with your face and hands. Bring ski gloves, ski goggles and a beanie to keep your head toasty. A helmet is nice if you want to be extra safe. 

Don’t forget to apply sunscreen and an SPF lip balm. Kairo (heat packs) that you can stick on your clothes or slip into a pocket can also keep you cozy on the slopes. 

Top tip: Bring a plastic bag for wet clothes and a small towel to dry off. Keep your lift ticket, some cash and mini tissues on hand. Stash your street clothes, shoes (non-slip soles are best) and everything else in the locker and you’re good to go!

Japanese Ski-related Vocabulary

If you’re a winter sports rookie like me, you’ll need to understand a couple of Japanese terms to avoid confusion on the slopes. Here’s a table of some common lingo you’re bound to hear at any ski resort in Japan.

What to Expect

If you’re good at skateboarding, paddleboarding or surfing, then balance is probably your thing. You may be able to shred that slope in no time. For the rest of us non-sporty peeps, please manage your expectations. 

You may fall on your butt or eject from your ski bindings several times. You may feel like an idiot if kids are getting it before you. Don’t stress! Go with the flow. Take a break. Watch the snow sparkle under the sunlight. Breathe in that clean mountain air. Eat something and get back out there! 

And if you’re really not getting it, there’s no shame in throwing in the towel. Try something less stressful. Make a snowman. Go snowshoeing. Relish the Japanese après-ski ritual of soaking those tired limbs in an onsen (hot spring). 

Need some more inspo? Read Maxine Cheyney’s personal essay about shreddin’ the gnar: a beginner’s snowboarding experience.

Dear reader, have you gone skiing in Japan? How was it? We want to hear all about it in the comments!

Living in Japan isn’t all sunshine and sushi, and yet many people make it a permanent move. With all the culture shock, work and immigration factors to consider, many may neglect their long-term health. I’m guilty of that myself, and as a result, I ended up with a health scare a year ago. I’m not the only one; many foreign residents also discover unexpected health conditions during their time in Japan. In this article, we’ll cover common lifestyle illnesses in Japan, why they’re often found late and feature real-life stories.

What Is A Lifestyle Illness?

A lifestyle illness, or seikatsu shukan byo (生活習慣病), is a non-communicable disease caused by a person’s lifestyle or habits. The term was first proposed in 1996 by the Ministry of Health and Welfare’s Council on Public Health, intended to differentiate it from non-communicable diseases and conditions strongly associated with aging.

A lack of physical activity, unhealthy eating habits and smoking are the main factors behind developing a lifestyle illness. However, your ethnicity and family history can also influence how your health evolves.

Some common lifestyle illnesses in Japan include:

Lifestyle illnesses often come without any warning symptoms or with symptoms that can easily be ignored or attributed to another health issue. It is typically a condition that can’t be cured outright but can be managed, often with prescription medicines and lifestyle changes. Illness rates in general increase dramatically from about age 40, which is why your Japanese national health insurance rate increases at that age, too.

“You have to start paying for the Long-Term Care Insurance Premium at 40, in order to provide for the long-term care needs of the elderly, but also for anyone over 40 who has an age or lifestyle-related illness. It’s expensive, but beneficial” (Keiko, Japanese, 31).

Getting A Diagnosis in Japan

If something feels “off”, see your doctor as soon as you can. As women, our medical needs are often ignored, so advocate for yourself or maybe get a friend or partner involved, too. To learn more about the process of consulting a doctor in Japan, refer to this article.

In my case, I was getting routine blood work when I was diagnosed with vitamin B12 deficiency and a couple of levels my doctor called “interesting.” I’m not sure I like hearing a medical professional say that in any language, but in Japanese, it somehow feels more worrisome. Going to the doctor doesn’t have to be scary. If you aren’t comfortable speaking Japanese, it’s not always easy to express what your health concerns are to a doctor here, either.

“I smoked, I gained weight while living in Japan. I had a check-up, and when I mentioned some breathing trouble to my wife, she told my doctor, and he had me go to the hospital for some testing. Long story short, I had a tumor in my lungs. I had to quit smoking, change my diet and lose weight… It took years to undo the damage I did to myself” (Scott, American, 57).

“I’m no spring chicken, so when I was told I had non-alcoholic fatty liver disease (Metabolic dysfunction–associated steatotic liver disease), I assumed it was from age. No, apparently my diet had been doing me in for years and I never noticed it until I got these yellow spots on my eyelids” (Kathy, American, 65).

“I got homesick, living in Japan for so long, and I started eating more dishes like those my mother made. I was diagnosed with hypertension after my employee health check” (Sarah, British, 43).

Living With A Lifestyle Illness

Being diagnosed with a lifestyle illness is a sign that, while serious, you can still reduce the effects of the condition on your health. That being said, making drastic changes to your lifestyle is easier said than done. Starting to exercise, changing your diet, stopping bad habits, taking medications and that with whatever else you have going on in your life is a huge hurdle.

“I work long hours. I know I live a sedentary lifestyle, but now I’ve been told I need to start moving or else I’m going to die before I’m 60. It’s ridiculous, really. I spend my best years working hard, and then all that work means I’ll die before I can retire?” (Masato, Japanese-American, 50).

“When I was first diagnosed with Type 2 Diabetes, my first thought was to move home. Health care is free, or at least cheaper there, and I’d have my family to support me. I still consider it when things get tough, but I’m getting better at coping” (Lindsey, Canadian, 42).

“Hearing that I had cancer was like a punch in the gut. I’ve never felt more alone in my life, and I know I went a bit anti-social as a result. I suppose you could say I was a hikikomori, or at least withdrawn, while I got treatment” (Paul, Australian, 47).

The psychological impact of learning you have a lifestyle illness can be surprising, too.

Building Healthy Habits

Whatever your diagnosis is, doing what’s best for your health (mental and physical) is vital. Aside from taking your medications (if applicable), here are some other things to prioritize:

• Educating yourself as thoroughly as possible about your current diagnosis.
• Scheduling regular checkups with your doctor.
• Going for regular walks in your neighborhood is far easier (and cheaper) than joining a gym all of a sudden.
• If you need to change your diet, consider a grocery or meal service while you make your adjustments. Eat a more balanced diet of whole foods while reducing or eliminating processed foods as much as possible.
• Managing your stress by journaling, meditating and other mindfulness practices.
• Focusing on getting good quality sleep each night.
• Sharing your diagnosis with your friends and family so you can receive the support you need.

Hopefully, while making these changes, you’ll be able to live a long and happy life despite this diagnosis. “You got yourself into this mess, you can get yourself out” is the advice my own doctor gave me, and so far, it seems to be working. Be well!

Meet the kinkan (kumquat). Tiny, tart and tantalizing, these little citrus fruits are ideal for a simple kumquat recipe and are easy to find at local supermarkets throughout winter in Japan. Not much larger than an olive, a kinkan ranges in diameter from two to four centimeters. But despite their miniature size, kumquats are packed with flavor and nutrition, and unlike other citrus fruits, they’re often enjoyed whole—skin and all.

Eaten raw, the thin, crunchy peel yields easily to the teeth, the orange orbs bursting with tangy juice. Fragrant oils spray the air, releasing a delicate floral aroma from the pores of the fruit’s sweet, lustrous skin.

When boiled with sugar, kumquats become tender and glossy, tempering the sourness of the fruit’s flesh and preserving its fragrance in a thick nectar. A versatile topping for everything from yogurt to pancakes, we share a simple recipe for kumquats in syrup below.

But first, a little background on the tiniest citrus fruit.

An Auspicious Japanese New Year Food

© Photo by Rika Hoffman

Known as kinkan no kanroni in Japanese, candied kumquat is a sweet treat, home remedy and palate cleanser rolled into one—which helps explain its popularity among osechi ryori (Japanese New Year cuisine) dishes. It’s the equivalent of eating cranberry sauce at Thanksgiving, with a bright, acidic flavor that cuts through the otherwise heavy (and rather brown—at least in the case of American Thanksgiving) meal.

Like other Japanese New Year foods, kinkan has a symbolic meaning that involves wordplay. 金柑 (kinkan; “kumquat”) is a homonym of 金冠 (kinkan; “golden crown”). If you want to attract wealth in the New Year, a kumquat might just be your golden ticket!

Kinkan is also an auspicious food to eat during the winter solstice in Japan. During this time of year, it’s said that eating foods with two letter n’s (ん and ン in hiragana and katakana) in their names attracts luck. Besides kinkan, this includes foods like ぎんなん (ginnan; “gingko nuts”), にんじん (ninjin; “carrots”) and レンコン (renkon; “lotus root”).

Kumquat Health Benefits

© Photo by Rika Hoffman

Need another reason to include kinkan in your diet? Kumquats are full of health benefits, including: 

• High amounts of dietary fiber (especially the peel) for satiety and improved digestion
• Antioxidants like vitamin C, which boosts the immune system, promotes iron absorption and stimulates collagen production
• Moderate amounts of vitamin A, which is beneficial for the immune system, reproductive system and vision

Popular in Chinese medicine, eating candied kumquats is also a traditional Japanese remedy for sore throat and cough. Steep one or two kumquats in a mug of hot water with a teaspoon of syrup and sip your way to a soothed throat.

Kinkan no Kanroni (Candied Kumquat) Recipe

© Photo by Rika Hoffman

Ingredients

• 500 grams (approximately 3 cups) kumquats
• 250 grams (1 ¼ cup) sugar
• 400 milliliters (approx. 1 ⅔ cup) water

Instructions

1. Wash kumquats and make 7-8 vertical cuts into the skin with a knife. This will make it easier to take out the seeds later.
2. Submerge the kumquats in a pot of water (they should be just covered) and boil for 3-4 minutes. 
3. Drain the kumquats and allow them to cool. 
4. Taking each kumquat one by one, gently remove the seeds by inserting a wooden skewer or chopsticks into the vertical cuts you made earlier. 
5. Combine 400 milliliters of water and 250 grams of sugar in a pot and bring to a boil.
6. Add the kumquats. They should all fit in an even layer at the bottom of the pot.
7. Bring the pot of kumquats and syrup back up to a boil over medium heat. 
8. Lower the heat and cover with an otoshibuta (drop lid) to simmer for 30 minutes. If you don’t have an otoshibuta, a piece of parchment paper cut into a circle to fit the pot works just as well.
9. Once the kumquats have softened and the syrup has thickened, turn off the heat and allow them to cool.
10. Transfer your kumquats with syrup into a jar. Due to the high sugar content in this recipe (50% of the weight of the kumquats), it keeps pretty well. Store in the fridge for up to one month, or in the freezer for up to three months.

How To Use Candied Kumquat

© Photo by Rika Hoffman

There are numerous ways to use these plump, candied kumquats and their syrup:

• Top yogurt or ice cream with chopped kumquats and a drizzle of syrup
• Infuse your tea with candied kumquat and a spoonful of syrup
• Replace the simple syrup in a cocktail recipe with sweet kinkan nectar
• Soak cake layers with kinkan syrup for added flavor and moisture
• Mix chopped kumquats into cake or pancake batter

With a jar of candied kinkan on hand, the possibilities are endless!

Using this kumquat recipe? Share your photos with us via Facebook or Instagram with a hashtag #savvytokyorecipe

Money can be tight after the holiday season. When the days of fun and feasting have faded, January often brings a period of reflection and saving for the new year ahead. Happily, your food budget doesn’t have to break the bank with expensive imports (looking at you, pricey Chilean blueberries!). Alongside leaner meat and fish choices that people often switch to as they double down on New Year’s resolutions, why not fill your plate with affordable, healthy seasonal winter vegetables from Japan?

Winter vegetables may receive a bad rap for their limited variety. Indeed, although I am a big fan of root vegetables, I did tire of throwing them in the oven as a wintery side dish in Canada. However, Japan’s cold-weather specialties have quite a varied taste profile, ranging from earthy and deep to peppery and sharp. Domestically grown, full of vitamins and minerals, and plenty of “Japan-only” appeal: dig into our list below to discover five stars of fuyu (winter)!

1. Burdock Root

© Photo by iStock: sirichai_asawalapsakul

Gobo (burdock root) is a slender root vegetable that resembles a pale white tree root and grows year-round, with peak harvests in fall and winter. Burdock root is high in fiber, which helps regulate blood sugar levels, making it often eaten to aid digestion or ground into powder and sold as a dietary supplement.

When cooking with burdock, it’s best not to peel the skin, as that is where the most nutrients are located. However, giving the root a good scrub and soaking it in cold water will help remove dirt and reduce its bitter taste. A popular recipe with burdock root is kinpira gobo, or sliced gobo with carrots and sesame, which is a staple for home cooks across Japan. Meanwhile, Hakata, Fukuoka Prefecture’s specialty, is gobo tempura-topped udon noodles, which attract long lines of hungry tourists.

2. Napa or Chinese Cabbage

© Photo by iStock: wahid hasyim asyari

Hakusai (Napa or Chinese Cabbage), meaning “white vegetable”, is the most crucial leafy green in Japanese winter cuisine. This cabbage is widely available across Japan during the winter season, where you will often see the white-stemmed, crinkly-leafed veggie piled high at the supermarket. Napa cabbage is easy to grow and can withstand temperatures as low as zero degrees Celsius as a cold-weather crop.

Napa cabbage has a mild, slightly sweet flavor and works well in steamed and stewed dishes such as hot pot and cabbage rolls. It also serves as the main ingredient in the kimchi sold in Japan. Napa cabbage is also low in calories, high in water content, and loaded with vitamins and antioxidants to help ward off the various colds and viruses that may come your way during the winter season.

3. Japanese Radish

© Photo by iStock: karimitsu

No vegetable is more iconic in Japan than daikon (Japanese radish). Daikon, or literally “big root,” is commonly bright white in color and notable for its size, especially compared to small red garden radishes. There are several varieties of Japanese radish, but the largest one is Kagoshima prefecture’s Sakurajima shimadekon (island daikon in dialect), which holds a Guinness World Record for being the biggest radish in the world.

Japanese radishes have a milder taste that is less sharp and peppery than that of other radish varieties. In Japanese cuisine, people often grate daikon and serve it with dipping sauces or slice it thinly for fresh salads. During colder weather, they boil it in soy sauce or add it to stews and hot pots to bring out its natural sweetness.

4. Japanese Mustard Green

© Photo by iStock: nortongo

Mizuna (Japanese mustard greens) are winter leafy greens that grow in large white bulbs from October to March. They are prolific plants that grow quickly and are productive, with a single bulb capable of producing up to 600 leaves. Mizuna is also known as kyona because it was historically cultivated in the Kyoto region and is considered one of the few native vegetables of Japan.

Mizuna has a peppery and mildly bitter flavor. They are commonly grown for salad mixes and can be easily paired with other greens. These mustard greens can also be sautéed in stir-fries, where they will wilt and shrink like spinach. Additionally, mizuna is a popular last-minute addition to stews and hot pots, such as nabe yaki udon (hot pot udon noodles).

5. Enoki Mushrooms 

© Photo by iStock: 4nadia

Enokitake (enoki mushrooms) are white, thin, tendril-like mushrooms that naturally grow on tree logs from late fall to early spring. The roots of the mushroom are grown interconnected and produce small bundles, which are then cut and sold to supermarkets. When storing them at home, remove them from any plastic packaging and place them in the crisper to avoid spoilage. 

Enoki mushrooms have an earthy and slightly nutty flavor that will add depth to your cooking. Like other mushrooms in Japan, enoki is used in a variety of dishes, ranging from soups and stews to stir-fries. They are even popular deep-fried as an appetizer or snack while drinking. For an easy meal, try making takikomi gohan (Japanese mixed rice), where you cook enoki mushrooms with rice in the rice cooker.

So, get your nabe (hot pots) bubbling and try out these five winter vegetables in Japan! And, if you want them all to share the same hot pot, why not give it a go? Just make sure only to add your mizuna at the very last minute to preserve its delicate flavor and texture.

Japan is home to the world’s oldest population, with approximately 30% of its citizens over 65 years old. Here, wellness isn’t a buzzword or a fad; it’s a way of life that is the product of daily rituals that have stood the test of time. At the core of these habits is grounding oneself in nature, from shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) and onsen (hot spring) trips to eating a balanced diet that changes with the seasons.

Today, Japan’s wellness market continues to evolve with these centuries-old traditions. In recent years, cannabidiol (CBD) oil has been a new addition to everyday wellness routines. This naturally occurring and non-addictive compound derived from the cannabis plant may reduce anxiety, improve sleep and relieve minor aches. 

Here are five ways people in Japan use CBD oil in their routines:

1. In Warm Drinks

One way people in Japan use CBD oil is by adding a few drops to their morning coffee or tea. It’s one of the most common ways to ingest CBD oil, adding a bit of warmth to your day. The key is to stir well so that the oil distributes evenly. Many people prefer this method because it doesn’t require any changes to their everyday rituals, be it gearing up for the long day ahead or unwinding in the evening.

2. In Homemade Chocolates or Baked Goods

Everyone loves a sweet treat. For a cozy night in, melt your favorite kind of chocolate, blend in some CBD oil and pour it into a mold to cool in the fridge. It’s a practical choice for anyone who dislikes the taste or texture of CBD oil on its own.

3. As Massage Oil

While lymphatic massages aren’t new to Japan, using CBD oil as a massage oil may help ease stiffness and minor aches or pains after a long day at work. At the end of the week, add in a massage as part of your self-care routine, whether you’re stretching or after showering. This approach is ideal for beginners who want to experience the benefits of CBD oil without any extra effort. 

4. Mixing It Into Hand Cream

Another great way to incorporate CBD oil into your lifestyle is to use it with your hand cream. Now that it’s colder in Japan, it’s not uncommon for our skin to feel parched, especially as the temperatures drop. Frequent washing and daily wear can also strip our hands of the natural oils they need to maintain healthy skin. This mixture can be used wherever your schedule takes you, from your office desk to a weekend trip. 

5. As Is

The simplest way to take CBD oil is to use a tincture and place a few drops under your tongue. Add it to your morning or nighttime routine or whenever you take your daily vitamins. 

Humacology

When using CBD oil, it’s important to use a trusted brand that prioritizes quality and consistency over time. Humacology, Australia’s number one CBD oil brand, is formulated by a team of phytochemists from the University of Athens. Grounding its CBD products in data-driven research and scientific standards. The brand is one of the few CBD oil companies in the country to be fully approved and meets Japan’s strict one-part-per-million THC limit requirement. 

Produced in Humacology’s facility in Greece, which operates to European pharmaceutical-grade GMP (Great Manufacturing Practice) standards, the brand guarantees that customers get precisely what they pay for. 

Long-term wellness isn’t about following the latest trends; it’s shaped by the daily choices you make over time. CBD oil is a simple way to boost your self-care routine that fits around your lifestyle, not the other way around.

You can purchase Humacology through Amazon, Qoo10 and at selected retailers like Yodobashi Camera. To view the full lineup, visit the official website at humacology.jp.

Approximately 14 million people live in Tokyo, so space is, understandably, at a premium. And if you look at the modern apartments in this bustling city, you’ll notice that most of them have a similar interior design—classic white walls, faux wood flooring and off-white bathrooms. Speaking of the latter, a Tokyo apartment bathroom is often compact, functional and (between us) a little monotonous. However, if you look closer, you will find beauty in monotony.

With a creative spirit, you can transform your small bathroom into a serene haven with these aesthetically pleasing products. Allow me to show you how!

Set The Vibe With Candles

Greetings from my Tokyo bathroom! As you can see, I’ve decorated the room with candles and artificial plants. I intended to create a space that would allow me to recharge and rejuvenate after a long day at work. The LED candles are from Ikea. I think they add a sense of coziness to the space. To create a spa-like experience at home, I often turn off my bathroom lights, play some lo-fi music and put these candles on while I indulge in a relaxing soak and sip on green tea.

• Price: ¥1,499 
• Buy: Ikea 

Add Sakura Petals To Your Bath

If you’re obsessed with Japanese cherry blossoms, then you will surely love this Sakura Bath Confetti from Loft. Sprinkle a handful into your bath and the water will slowly transform into a blissful shade of pink. It’s the perfect pick-me-up product when you’re feeling under the weather.

• Price: ¥350 
• Buy: Loft

Pamper Your Skin With Honey

This luxury body wash from Hacci is one of my favorites to use when I want to pamper myself. The mellow honey scent is soothing and it makes the skin feel smooth and smell delicious.

• Price: ¥4,950 
• Buy: Hacci

Mini Plants For The Win

I’m a big fan of artificial plants. They’re low maintenance and look like the real deal. I placed these cute succulents on my bathroom rack to add instant color to my plain white bathroom. It’s a minor detail that contributes to the overall low-key Zen aesthetic.

• Price: ¥299
• Buy: Ikea

Bathe With Yuzus

You don’t have to visit a sento (public bathhouse) to enjoy a yuzu bath. You can recreate the same experience at home! Yuzus are available throughout the year in Japan; you can buy them at supermarkets or order them online. Bathing with these aromatic citrus fruits will help melt away stress and elevate your mood.

Note: If you can’t find yuzu fruit at the supermarket, they also offer a bath salt versions.

• Price: ¥1,000 
• Buy: Amazon

Buff Away Those Dead Skin Cells

Most body scrubs in the market today are either too harsh or too fragrant. Some of them could even irritate your skin and cause it to flare up. This one from Sabon is the perfect product for sensitive skin. It is a cult favorite among Japanese women for its powerful scent. A bit pricey, but worth every yen! It contains almond and jojoba oil. Not only does it exfoliate your skin to perfection, but it also leaves your skin smelling divine.

• Price: ¥3,740 
• Buy: Sabon

Try Dry Brushing

Japanese washcloths are physical exfoliators made from nylon and polyester. You can use them with or without soap and water to cleanse your body. It is like dry brushing if you use them without water. Besides exfoliating the skin, dry brushing with this washcloth helps improve blood circulation, elevates your mood and makes your skin feel softer and smoother. Living in Tokyo, I’d recommend dry brushing once or twice a week.

• Price: ¥799 
• Buy: Amazon

Organize Your Bath Salts

Bath salts and tablets are readily available and affordable in Japan. I like to keep mine in this large bowl. You can also store them in baskets and mason jars. The idea is to spread them out to know how many are with you. Depending on the size of your bathroom, you can choose the container that is best suited to storing your bath products.

• Price: ¥1,430 
• Buy: Amazon

Invest In A Reed Diffuser

A reed diffuser in your bathroom will make the room smell fresh at all times. Unlike candles and electric diffusers, they don’t burn or require power to work. The one in the picture is from Daiso (yes, Daiso stores in Japan now sell reed diffusers as well!) If you’re looking for fresh scents in your bathroom, consider lavender, musk, eucalyptus, lemongrass, tea tree, citrus and rosemary. These scents will make you feel relaxed throughout the day.

• Price: ¥1,800
• Buy: Daiso

Bath Bombs For A Luxurious Soak

Lush is one of the best places to shop for bath bombs in Japan. While they offer a variety of them, keep an eye out for the ones exclusive to Japan. I recommend their Temple in the Sky bath bomb. It depicts a sparkly golden Japanese temple and has a fresh citrus scent. 

• Price: ¥920
• Buy: Lush (Japan Only)

I wrote this story to inspire you to transform your cozy Tokyo apartment bathroom space into a sanctuary. If you have more creative design ideas, please share them in the comments below. I’m excited to read yours!

Whether you celebrate Christmas, Hanukkah or Oshogatsu (Japanese New Year), this time of year is filled with holiday celebrations—and all the festive foods that go with it. In this Tokyo dietitian’s guide to festive feasting, I want to address a concern I hear every November and December from many of the patients who visit my office: how to balance meals in a way that allows them to enjoy their favorite holiday fare while still maintaining their health.

I completely understand their struggle, which is why I’m happy to share what I’ve learned through my work as a dietitian over the years. And before you start to worry that this will be another nutrition article suggesting you swap cauliflower into all your holiday recipes or warning about the dangers of sugar, let me reassure you that this is not that article.

Read on for tips on how to include balance and joy as you savor the season with these holiday eating dos and don’ts.

Healthy Holiday Eating Dos

Get Comfortable Living In The ‘Grey’

© Photo by iStock: AzmanJaka

Although many patients will tell me that they are an “all or nothing” kind of person and want to jump right in on a strict meal plan complete with lists of “good” and “bad” foods, the truth is that those types of diets or meal plans aren’t sustainable over long periods of time.

When I think of the patients who were most successful in making long-term dietary changes, they all shunned such rigid, “black and white” thinking and became adept at living in the space between severe restriction and complete abandonment of their nutritional goals. They didn’t live in fear of sweets and treats and were able to enjoy foods that were less nutrient dense—like dessert or alcohol—while still prioritizing ones that were.

This might look like having pizza with a large salad on the side or enjoying a lovely holiday lunch at a fancy restaurant, but planning a dinner filled with lots of vegetables, lean protein and whole grains that also taste delicious once back at home.

These types of patients never had to worry about “falling off the wagon” because they never got on it in the first place. They were patient with their progress and understood that the health or nutrition outcomes they wanted were only possible with time, consistency and making peace with food and eating.

Understand That Any One Meal, Snack Or Dessert Won’t Make Or Break Your Health

© Photo by iStock: PamelaJoeMcFarlane

Whenever a patient comes in panicking about an upcoming holiday meal or an outing like a bonenkai (end-of-year party), I find it’s often helpful to look at the bigger picture. Assuming you eat three meals a day, one meal is only 0.09% of your total food intake for the year.

So just like eating one salad won’t magically make all your health problems disappear, neither will enjoying one holiday meal. What you do consistently matters the most.

Offer To Bring Fruit Or Vegetable Dishes To Holiday Gatherings

© Photo by iStock: Elena_Fox

While I think you should enjoy your favorite holiday foods regardless of whether they’re nutritious or not (more on that later), you’d be surprised how appreciative people are if you bring a fruit or vegetable-filled side dish to a holiday party.

In the excitement over more decadent holiday dishes, fruits and vegetables often get overlooked. Yet in my experience, people are always happy to have them as part of their meal, and in many cases, it’s one of the first dishes to run out!

This time of year has amazing seasonal produce, such as mikan (orange), daikon, yuzu or komatsuna (Japanese spinach) that can be incorporated into dishes or salads that are sure to be a hit.

Appreciate Other Aspects Of The Holidays That Don’t Involve Food

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Even though festive meals are a big part of the holidays, don’t let food and food anxiety overshadow the many other wonderful parts of the holiday season. From enjoying the holiday illuminations to visiting the shrine for hatsumode (first shrine visit of the year), the holidays aren’t just about eating—they are also about joy, connection and celebration.

Healthy Holiday Eating Don’ts

Don’t Skip Meals Before Holiday Gatherings Or Parties

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“Saving up” calories before a big holiday meal or event almost always guarantees a binge. Plan to eat regular, nourishing meals instead.

Don’t Feel You Need To Make “Healthy” Versions Of Your Favorite Holiday Food

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There is nothing wrong with modifying a favorite holiday recipe to incorporate more nutrient-dense foods or to accommodate a dietary requirement, such as a dairy or gluten allergy. However, don’t feel like you must do that if what you really want is to enjoy the holiday meal or food as it is.

Research has shown that people who deprived themselves of their favorite foods—such as chocolate—not only experienced more cravings for the restricted food but also ended up eating more than those who didn’t restrict those foods in the first place.

So if what you really want is a piece of Christmas cake, don’t feel like you have to settle for some fruit or a sugar-free dessert instead—have the cake and enjoy it guilt-free!

Don’t Punish Yourself If You Overindulge In Food Or Drinks During The Holidays

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Avoid the temptation to restrict your food intake in response to overeating at a holiday event. Doing so only puts you in a binge and restrict cycle, since severe dietary restriction often results in overeating later due to feelings of deprivation and shame.

While it is okay to listen to your body and eat less food if you aren’t hungry at your next meal, punishing yourself by barely eating is counterproductive.

In the hustle and bustle of the holiday season, striking a balance between eating and celebrating can be challenging. Yet with the tips above and an extra serving of fruit and vegetables (sorry for the shameless fruit and veg plug but I am a dietitian after all!), you can start the new year healthy, happy and well nourished.

Republished for 2025.

Hey Hilary—I’m Rethinking Life in Japan

You probably receive emails like this all the time, but I’ve broken up with my Japanese boyfriend, and now I’m rethinking everything about my life, including whether to stay in Japan.

I’ve lived in Japan for eight years. My Japanese ex-boyfriend and I work in the same office together; I’ve known him for all eight years, but we only dated for two. Our office has no rules against dating coworkers, and he and I were able to keep our personal and work lives separate for the most part. I don’t want to get into the details of why we broke up, but it came down to wanting different things. We decided to go our separate ways but stay friends.

Now he ignores me at work and when we do have to interact, he’s cold and standoffish. I’m good at my job, and I haven’t had any issues with anyone before the break-up, but this month, for some reason, other coworkers have had complaints about my work.

I feel like he’s brought our break-up into work, and since I’m less senior there than he is, I get the feeling that people are hoping I’ll leave.

I’m starting to seriously consider leaving my job, and Japan as well. I couldn’t easily find another job in my industry, and I would still run the risk of having to interact with my ex and my current company. I could easily work in my industry in my home country and never interact with my ex-boyfriend again.

I’m unsure whether returning overseas makes sense, or if I should relocate within Japan, or stay at my current company until my visa expires. I guess my question is, what would you do in my position?

—Feeling Lost

Dear Feeling Lost,

You’ve been in Japan for some time, and you’ve experienced a significant change in a relationship, which has either directly or indirectly impacted your career as well. Understandably, you’d be feeling lost and conflicted about your future.

One of my favorite movie quotes comes from Olympia Dukakis’s character in Moonstruck: “Don’t s*** where you eat.” As you have unfortunately learned, and despite making it work for a few years, what happens between coworkers who turn into couples rarely stays out of the workplace.

While I can only take your word that your coworkers have never taken issue with your work, this sudden change in your perception in the office is telling. You know your ex best, so I would have to agree that, consciously or not, he has somehow influenced your coworkers against you.

Given that you’re now in a more hostile work environment, it also makes sense that you’d be considering leaving your current job. However, before you do, note this: if he is undermining your work, you may want to bring this to the attention of people higher up in the company.

Harassment of various kinds has become an increasingly pressing issue in Japan recently.

Harassment in the workplace is something the company would take seriously. According to top recruiting companies, your ex’s behavior could fall under power/moral harassment, which includes gossip, mental attacks and purposely excluding people and/or persuading others to do so.

You say that it wouldn’t be easy to find a new, similar position while in Japan, and you would likely still be in contact with your ex and current company.

• Would you feel comfortable still being in contact with him or the company?
• Could you separate what happened from your potential other employer?
• What do you stand to gain and lose if you were to change jobs (or even careers) in Japan?

Perhaps the more complicated question to answer:

• What would you stand to gain and lose if you were to move back to your home country?
• Would the pros outweigh the cons in the long term, or vice versa?

Another important question to consider:

• How much time do you have left on your visa?

If it’s a year or less, you might feel pressured to make decisions quickly, especially with the changing visa fees being discussed in the news these days. Don’t bow to that pressure; give yourself the time to consider your options carefully. Leaving Japan requires a lot of preparation, and if you rush into things, you might come to regret your decision in the long run.

If it’s more than a year, then I would suggest sticking it out for a month or two more at your current job. Things could settle down to relative normal again, or they might not. It’s essential to determine whether this is a temporary reaction on your coworkers’ part or if it is a sign that you should consider finding a new job. You need to know that you’re making the right decision for your career and future.

It’s nearly the end of the year, and I know things can feel more dire in this season, but you need to put yourself first and foremost. Take your time and make sure that you’re seeing things with clear eyes. You know you, so give yourself the grace to breathe, think and come to the right conclusions—best of luck.

Got a question you’d like to ask Hilary? Email it to askhilary@savvytokyo.com with the subject “Ask Hilary.”

There’s no denying that regular walks can help with a number of physical and mental health conditions. Sometimes, however, walking alone can feel tedious. If you are like me and need a goal to keep up a good habit, then perhaps you’d like to try collecting 御城印 (gojyoin; “castle stamps”).

What Are Gojyoin?

While Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples have goshuin (Japanese shrine and temple stamps), Japanese castles have gojyoin. Much like goshuin, gojyoin are sold at various castles around Japan. They can range in price from ¥300 to ¥ 1,000, although special, limited-edition ones for special events may cost more.

The castle stamps are made similarly to goshuin. Images or designs are stamped on washi paper, accompanied by the castle’s name and the date on the paper. Unlike goshuin, however, these papers are often prepared in advance (sometimes printed on a computer) and distributed in paper envelopes upon payment. You will likely have to write the date of your visit on it yourself, although some locations will do this for you instead.

The Origin Of Gojyoin

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Gojyoin got its start in 1990, when Matsumoto Castle in Nagano prefecture began selling ‘visitation certificates’ to those who came to the castle. They were somewhat popular, but the concept didn’t really gain traction until 2016. Around that time, Gujo Hachiman Castle in Gifu Prefecture (and others) announced that they were donating the proceeds from the sales of these stamps to aid earthquake relief efforts in Kumamoto Prefecture.

As of 2020, there are over 500 castles and historic remains that sell their own castle stamps.

Please note that, while similar, goshuin have somewhat sacred connotations (as they are proof of a pilgrimage in a sense), while gojyoin are more of a souvenir.

Getting Started With Gojyoin

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First, you’ll need a 御城印帳 (gojyoincho), which is essentially the same sort of book as those for shrine stamps. In fact, some people collect both in the same book as souvenirs from their visits to particularly historically rich areas. However, this is a point of contention among collectors of both. They range in price from ¥1,000 to ¥2,500, while more elaborate or highly customized ones can be found in the ¥3,500 to ¥6,000 range.

Technically speaking, that’s all that you need—although a good pair of walking shoes is highly recommended. Unlike most shrines and temples, Japanese castles tend to be situated on mountains or high above the rest of the city, which often requires hiking. Dressing appropriately is key, as the last thing you want to do is end up with blisters and bruises.

How Do You Collect Gojyoin?

Gojyoin are not only sold at the castles themselves, but may be found in gift shops, tourist information centers or even at highway rest stops. That being said, these locations sometimes close earlier than the castle itself. If there is a stamp you really want to collect, plan ahead and arrive early.

Gojyoin Meguri

Much like with goshuin, you can also go on day trips to collect various castle stamps. There are plenty of books out there to help you get started, too. They’re often located in the domestic travel section of your favorite bookstore.

Sometimes you can even find magazines for specific historical areas or figures that include 御城印巡り (gojyoin meguri) or day trips and hikes that will take you to historical sites and castles where you can collect various gojyoin as well.

If you want to get started locally, then in Tokyo, you can collect gojyoin from the following sites:

• Ishihama Castle (石浜城): visit Ishihama Shrine; (Google Map Link); ¥300-¥500
• Shakujii Castle (石神井城): visit Patisserie Cache-Cache (Google Map Link); ¥300
• Nerima Castle (練馬城): visit Links For Hair Salon (Google Map Link); ¥300
• Takinogawa Castle (滝野川城): visit Love Live Lead Store Souvenir Shop (Google Map Link); ¥440
• Inatsuke Castle (稲付城): visit Love Live Lead Store Souvenir Shop (Google Map Link); ¥440
• Asukayama Castle (飛鳥山城): visit Love Live Lead Store Souvenir Shop (Google Map Link); ¥440

Anyone with a keen knowledge of Tokyo will have noticed that these castles aren’t technically here any longer, or only exist in the form of ruins. In order to collect these gojyoin, you’ll need to visit a shop or shrine near the former castle site.

Outside of Tokyo, there are numerous walking courses to choose from, offering far more options. Chiba Prefecture, for example, has over 100 castle sites with gojyoin. Plus, if you are traveling to check out new castles, you can also try some great B-kyu foods along the way.

If you’re looking for a good reason to get out and walk this winter, consider collecting gojyoin castle stamps.

Wasabi, along with soy sauce, is known internationally as the go-to condiment for sushi and sashimi. Some people love it, some people hate it, some people have never actually had the “real” stuff, but it’s another of Japan’s great superfoods.

What Is Wasabi?

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わさび or 山葵 (wasabi) is Japanese horseradish, and part of the mustard family. Native to Japan, it can also be found in the Korean Peninsula, Sakhalin and the eastern side of Russia. It grows naturally along stream beds, especially in mountain river valleys across Japan.

Wasabi has been eaten in Japan since the Nara/Heian eras. However, it was then consumed as part of a cold soup. In the Edo era, it was used as a garnish with sashimi, soba and pickled vegetables. It later became the standard garnish for sushi.

The rhizomes (rootstalks) or the main body of the wasabi are ground into a paste and used as a condiment. While similar to hot mustard and horseradish, it has a subtle, distinct flavor when grated that many find addictive. It’s traditionally grated using coarse sharkskin graters but metal or plastic graters are also used nowadays.

Real vs Fake Wasabi

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While primarily found in the Izu Peninsula of Shizuoka Prefecture, wasabi plants are also farmed in Nagano, Iwate and Shimane Prefectures. It’s impossible to grow them in a commercial capacity, which means that the real stuff is expensive. A single rhizome to grate at home can run anywhere from ¥800 to ¥2,500.

The plants are also very fussy as they are:

• Intolerant of direct sunlight
• Require temperatures between eight and 20 degrees Celsius (46 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit)
• Prefer high humidity during their summer growing seasons

Fresh paste loses its flavor quickly if left exposed to the air. It therefore must be grated and used as soon as possible. That’s why it’s grated fresh on the spot in high-end restaurants, and often sandwiched between the fish and rice in sushi restaurants.

So What’s The Fake Stuff Made Of?

It’s no secret that all wasabi isn’t created equal. As the condiment has gained popularity over time, commercial options have been developed to meet demand.

Wasabi sold in Japan comes in bottles and tubes, and is usually made from dried wasabi powder. Overseas, most pastes are made from other ingredients such as horseradish, mustard and may not even contain any wasabi whatsoever. Often, green food coloring or spinach powder is added to mimic the appearance of fresh wasabi.

Health Benefits

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Real wasabi is a superfood in that it contains isothiocyanates, just like cruciferous vegetables like broccoli and cabbage. It’s packed with:

• Vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, C
• Folate
• Calcium
• Iron
• Manganese
• Magnesium
• Zinc
• Phosphorus
• Potassium

Other studies show it to have anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties, and may also promote fat loss. It may also help lower cholesterol, reduce blood clot formation (which reduces the risk of stroke and cardiac arrest) and also help lower blood pressure.

As it contains sinigrin, a glucosinolate that helps clear sinus congestion and thin mucus, it can be particularly helpful during cold and flu season too!

Why It Works So Well With Raw Fish

Part of the reason why wasabi is so intricately linked to raw fish is that it’s considered an antidote for food poisoning. It contains allyl isothiocyanate, which has been proven to inhibit the growth of E. coli, Salmonella sp, H. pylori and Staphylococcus aureus, the bacteria that cause food poisoning and ulcers, which can lead to stomach cancer, and may also help to prevent tooth decay as a result.

Real wasabi is also an antiparasitic; the isothiocyanates released when wasabi is ground are effective against Anisakiasis, a parasitic disease caused by worms found in cod, salmon and squid.

How To Enjoy It

Wasabi is not something you should eat in large amounts. The sharp, pungent spice of it hits the nose and sinuses in such a way that excessive consumption can lead to headaches in some people. Small amounts of the paste can be added directly to raw fish, used in marinades, added to sauces for steaks or used as a spicy seasoning on snacks.

Fresh wasabi leaves are also spicy and are commonly added to rice balls and salads, but can cause diarrhea. The tea isn’t spicy at all, but has a mellow yet flavorful taste that some say is better than that of green tea alone.

If you haven’t tried its other forms, you may want to consider adding it to your diet.

There may be times in a person’s life when they need someone to talk to, and for many residents or expats seeking counseling in Tokyo, that moment can feel especially daunting. While friends, family and advice columns are all options, sometimes you need to hear an unbiased, professional opinion on a matter. Sometimes, the situation or emotions you’re experiencing are far too personal, too uncomfortable or perhaps even borderline illegal for anyone within your personal life to truly help with. It happens.

Talking to a professional is important. More people should do it, in fact. Individual counseling can help with a lot of different issues, be they stress, bereavement or seasonal issues. However, when you live in another country, language and cultural barriers can make it feel nearly impossible. And if you’re looking for couples counseling when you and your partner come from different cultural backgrounds and may not fully understand each other’s languages, that’s an even bigger hurdle.

Fortunately, in the Tokyo area, numerous professionals offer their services in English and other languages as well. If you search for clinics in Tokyo, you’ll find several that come up repeatedly—but whether or not these specialists are any good is the next question. You can’t always trust online reviews, nor should you, especially when it comes to your own mental health or the health of a relationship.

It can also be hard to ask others about counseling or therapists. There’s still a lot of stigma attached to mental health in both Japan and overseas, which can make it difficult even to approach the subject. With that said, if you are in need, you should reach out and get it for your own sake. You deserve to be your best self, regardless of what a partner, family or society says.

English Language Clinics

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While this is not a comprehensive list, these are the most widely approved and recommended counseling services in the Tokyo area as endorsed by individuals and mixed-ethnicity couples, Japanese couples and foreign couples living in Japan (about 80 people and 100 couples over 15 years).

Details of their services, fees and availability are found on their websites.

Tokyo Mental Health

• Location(s): Tokyo, Okinawa
• Online: Available
• Languages: English
• Couples counseling: Currently suspended

Bonds Tokyo Counseling Service

• Location(s): Setagaya Ward
• Online: Available
• Languages: English & Japanese
• Couples counseling: Available

Sky Counseling & Consultation Tokyo

• Location(s): Meguro Ward
• Online: Available
• Languages: English & Japanese
• Couples counseling: Available

Aoyama Bright Life Counseling Clinic

• Location(s): Minami Aoyama
• Online: Available
• Languages: English, Japanese, & Polish
• Couples counseling: Available

TELL Counseling

• Location(s): Tokyo and Okinawa
• Online: Available
• Languages: English, Japanese, Mandarin Chinese, Cantonese, Spanish; flyers available in Bahasa Indonesian & Spanish
• Couples counseling: Varies

Individual Specialists

If you would prefer to find your own specialist, there are two services available:

• International Mental Health Professionals Japan
• Japan Healthcare Info

English Only, Online Only Services

There are also many counseling options available online. Three of the most recommended services for couples counseling are Better Help, Talk Space and ReGain.  Details of their services, fees and availability can be found on their websites.

As these are overseas-based services, you may need to book appointments at late night or early morning Japan time to get the most out of them.

Japanese Language Only Clinics

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There are scores of Japanese language-only clinics to choose from, as well, for both individual and couples counseling. However, they do expect you to be able to communicate at a native or near-native level of Japanese. You may be required to prove proficiency in Japanese or bring a translator with you, otherwise. For individual counseling in Japanese, it is recommended that you consult with your primary healthcare professional for recommendations, as you may need a referral to schedule an appointment.

Some ward offices also offer individual and couples counseling services. Ask at your local ward office if they have any of these services or if there are any counseling services available in your ward as well—these may be covered by Japanese National Insurance.

In terms of couples counseling specifically, some Japanese clinics also offer services for international couples. That being said, you are expected to be a near native-level Japanese speaker in order to participate. If you are not but would be more comfortable with a Japanese counseling clinic, you may be required to hire your own translator first. You’ll need to discuss this with the clinics beforehand, as each has its own rules and requirements regarding translation services as well as any associated fees.

Mejiro Sola Clinic

• Location(s): Mejiro Station
• Online: Based on needs/circumstances
• Languages: Japanese, consult regarding translation services
• Couples counseling: Available

Hiroo Stress Clinic Psychiatry

• Location(s): Minato Ward
• Online: Available
• Languages: Japanese, consult regarding translation services
• Couples counseling: Available

Fufu Mondai Sodanshitsu Forte (Fufu Forte)

• Location(s): Shinjuku Ward
• Online: Available
• Languages: Japanese, consult regarding translation services
• Couples counseling: Only service provided

Domestic Violence & Other Helplines

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Sometimes the kind of help people need requires professional, perhaps police, assistance. If you are the victim of domestic violence or aren’t sure and want to talk to someone to get a better understanding of your situation, there are also ways to get help.

The Domestic Violence Hotline Plus is a phone, email and live chat service that began in response to the shocking increase in reported domestic violence incidents during the pandemic lockdowns. The helplines are available 24 hours a day. Telephone and email consultations are Japanese only, but chats are available in English, Chinese, Korean, Indonesian, Spanish, Portuguese, Tagalog, Thai and Vietnamese. Select the language that you require at the top of their homepage and follow the instructions provided.

Victims of sexual violence should consult the Sexual Violence Relief Center Tokyo (SARC) as soon as possible, as they can help you with the police and any medical needs on a 24-hour basis. 

The Yorisoi Hotline is a service dedicated to Japan’s foreign community, offering assistance with a range of issues, including visa concerns, domestic violence and international trafficking. This service is available in Japanese, English, Tagalog, Korean, Chinese, Spanish, Portuguese, Thai, Vietnamese, Nepali, Indonesian and other languages, although availability varies.

And, of course, if you need someone to talk to, TELL Lifeline is also available.

Finding the right kind of help can be challenging when you live abroad, but hopefully, with this counseling in Tokyo guide, you have a better idea of where to start.