A couple of weeks ago, I accompanied a fellow writer to conduct a menu test at a recently opened eatery. She looked at the menu and knit her eyebrows together. “What am I supposed to call this? A bistro? It’s not—it’s too Japanese… There are burgers, but also, ajillo. And matcha lattes of all things?” Welcome, my friend, to a bal izakaya!

What Is A “Bal”?

Bal is a recent term popularized by the owners of certain izakaya-cum-bistros. Not “bar”, nor the Spanish “baru”, but bal. This romaji-fied katakana word perfectly illustrates how these only-in-Japan “bars” differ from Western iterations.

J-Net 21, a service that guides would-be business owners, defines a “dining bar” as an eatery offering a wide range of alcoholic beverage options in addition to food. The subtypes outlined are “Western European izakaya”, “wine bar” and “shot bar”. Not that many readers would equate “shot bar” with a place for eating charcuterie, though!

If you search “dining bar” and “Tokyo,” you might be surprised at the scarcity of usable listings. In fact, much like the contents of the preview menu, results from my own search lacked rhyme or reason. If you try in katakana, however, a clear pattern emerges: trendy eateries with an East-meets-West menu and an emphasis on drinks and atmosphere.

Another Japanese-only source, the celebration and gifting website Mechoo, explains the differences between French bistro and Spanish “baru,” noting that in Japan, bal (baru) has come to mean “Spanish-inspired Western Izakaya,” even though bal typically leans towards Italian or French influences.

The writers at Mechoo seem right on point, as their coverage came out in 2021 and was most recently updated in July 2023, with the uptick in bal openings.

As it stands, it seems that the bal hasn’t quite entered the expat space yet….time to change that!

Getting Girls To The Bar

© Photo by iStock: tky15_lenz

For those who wince at the thought of pit stains on otherwise immaculately crisp white shirts, a risk of sloshed cheap beer and free-flowing cigarette smoke in izakaya, a bal isn’t that. Nor is it a place to risk typical bar-like bothering.

Instead, most bals smack of posh, plushness and premium. Bals provide if-you-know-you-know intimacy that makes them perfect for dates or drinks with friends. The atmosphere is inviting but upscale enough to make guests feel like they’re having an evening out.

Mature flavors and fashionable interiors make bals especially inviting to the working women of Tokyo. They come to rub the salonpas of camaraderie into stiff shoulders and relax into voluptuous, enveloping flavors.

If izakaya promise salarymen a second wind after a long day, bals allow trendy guests to dip their toes into gourmet with all the familiar comfort of a warm bath.

The Bal Menu

Expect bagna cauda, carpaccio with Japanese flair and plenty of cheeses. One tell-tale sign of a bal is the fruit-burrata plate, sometimes accompanied by prosciutto. All bal seem to have potato salad, but each eatery employs some special flair or signature prep method.

Bals make a point of serving bread or cracker-paired appetizers too, unlike izakaya, and typically have Western-style pickles instead of oshinko or zuke (Japanese pickles).

For mains and meats, smoked or rare is a given. Duck breast and rare steaks or roast are often served pre-sliced and dressed for sharing. Diners can expect some, if not multiple, forms of confit, terrine or paté on the menu.

There is going to be pasta—spaghetti of some sort with shimmery oil sauce, ragu or a “signature” carbonara; something rich.

Round pasta like gnocchi, orecchiette and ravioli are all viable contenders, consistent with the “roundness” that classifies a bal’s signature menu. Pizza, focaccia, risotto and the like will satisfy the rest of the table.

Bals make generous use of dustings of grated parmesan, thinly sliced mushrooms and truffles, creamy, fluffy egg dishes, generous pours of olive oil and bursts of grated black pepper. The plating leans gourmet, but the flavors are all comfort.

Recommended Bal Izakaya Spots in Tokyo

Here are some of my favorite spots for you to try!

Fours (Meguro)

© Photo by Fours

Fours, self-described as “genreless cuisine to enjoy with people you love” is one of the most representative bal locations and a genre pioneer. It’s got the full bal experience:

A warmly inviting atmosphere, dressy potatoes, creative gorgonzola cheesecake for dessert and a signature salad featuring liver confit. It achieves the perfect bal-esque East-West balance with takikomi gohan (one-pot rice dish) and grown-up wasabeef (Japanese-style roast beef).

• Address: 1-4-11, Meguro, Meguro City, Tokyo
• Closest Station: Meguro Station
• Expect to Pay: Dinner: ¥8,000–¥9,999
• Opening Hours: Tue-Sun 5 p.m.-11 p.m., Closed on Mondays and 1-2 Tuesdays/month
• Website: https://foursmeguro.com/

Flamingo (Ebisu)

© Photo by Flamingo

Flamingo, “fun Italian and wine,” is located in foreigner-favorite Ebisu. It’s a place to explore well-known fusions like shirako (fish milt) pasta and inventive takes such as negitoro (minced raw tuna with green onion) cannoli. This little stand is snug and cozy, with bright windows partially obscured by the patio plant life.

Emitting a clubhouse vibe, Flamingo is ideal for savoring a couple of glasses of organic, small-batch wine alongside sharing plates, or opt for the course menu for a comprehensive gastronomic experience.

• Address: 1-2-8 Ebisuminami, Shibuya City, Tokyo
• Closest Station: Ebisu Station
• Expect to Spend: Dinner: ¥6,000–¥7,999
• Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 3 p.m.-11 p.m. (Last Order at 10:30 p.m.), Sun 1 p.m.-9 p.m. (Last Order at 8:30 p.m.) Closed Mondays
• Website: https://www.instagram.com/flamingo.ebisu/

Grilled Meat Bal Taiju (Ikebukuro)

© Photo by Grilled Meat Bal Taiju

Taiju lives up to its moniker with signature potato salad, stunning cuts of roasted and grilled wagyu, plump gnocchi and tuna katsu. This place is an especially good choice for a date night, with course menus starting at just ¥2,800 and a strong Western influence.

Taiju Allegato Hanare, the sister store to its Nishi-Shinjuku location, is positioned as an upscale izakaya. Hanare’s menu is even more successful in expressing the signature bal style: note the appetizer menu, featuring both fried shishito peppers and a fig-burrata plate.

• Address: 3-22-5 Nishiikebukuro, Toshima City, Tokyo
• Closest Station: Ikebukuro Station
• Expect to Spend: Dinner: ¥6,000–¥7,999
• Hours: Mon-Fri: 5 p.m. -11:30 p.m., Sat/Sun/Holiday: 4 p.m.-11:30 p.m.
• Website: https://www.meatbal.com/shop/ikebukuro/

Chochin (Omotesando)

© Photo by Chochin

Unlike the other members of this list, Chochin offers an East and West menu rather than a selection of fusion foods. It’s the place to go if you have one quiche eater and one karaage (Japanese fried chicken) craver.

Chochin’s comparatively narrow offerings put the focus on enjoying its upscale space as a watering hole. However, the mix-and-match menu is still 100% bal quality, and the course option is ideal for a nomikai (drinking party).

• Address: 4-29-9 Jingumae, Shibuya City, Tokyo
• Closest Station: Meiji Jingumae Station
• Expect to Spend: Dinner: ¥3,000–¥3,999
• Opening Hours: Mon-Thu 5 p.m.-11 p.m., Fri-Sun, Holidays: 4 p.m.-11:30 p.m.
• Website: https://chochin-omotesando.com/

Newly armed with a definition and what to look for, let us know if you have any bal izakaya to recommend!

Anthony Bourdain often waxed lyrical about his time in Tokyo. He went so far as to point out that it would be impossible to eat at every one of the city’s tens of thousands of restaurants. While that remains true, only a small fraction are run by foreigners, and even fewer are led by women. Discover five of those rare foreign-female owned eateries in Tokyo. These women are not only cooking but making their mark on Japan’s renowned foodie scene.

1. Katy Cole (U.S.): Locale

Locale has been described as “your best friend’s counter”, a “home away from home” and more—all glowing words that reflect the essence of this heartwarming Meguro bistro. Strangers dining at Locale for the first time quickly warm up over glasses of wine, which Chef Cole herself is no prude about sipping as she cooks. The menu is authentic farm-to-table food with weekend brunch and Katy’s version of a tasting menu, all packed with traceable ingredients. She describes the restaurant as a nightly dinner party. The intimacy and honesty that comes in each box of hand-tended produce is maintained in Katy’s cooking.

Chef Cole studied at Le Cordon Bleu and worked in San Francisco before moving to Japan. She was inspired after a brief trip to return for half a year, working on popups and forging bonds with farms and fellow restaurateurs. The story behind Locale’s ultimate success is mostly serendipitous—a spate of good luck and connections leading to what would become a family of regulars around a cozy kitchen counter. When one of Katy’s regular haunts closed, she took up the space to found Locale. Now, Locale also has some younger siblings in Wine Bar Juni and Kyoto’s Kosa.

• Address: 1-17-22 Meguro, Meguro ward, Tokyo
• Hours: Wed-Sat: 6 p.m.-10 p.m., Brunch: Sat and Sun: 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m.
• What to order: A little of everything (tasting menu)

2. Stacey Ward (U.K.): Mornington Crescent Bakery

Savvy Tokyo actually interviewed Stacey Ward in 2016, when Mornington Crescent had been in business for just three years. At that time, the thoughts of the changes coming to Azabu and Covid-19 were still a long way off. Stacey first came to Tokyo with the JET program and worked in marketing before being inspired to open her own bakery. Today, Mornington Crescent continues in much the same shape as it did nearly a decade ago. Stacey still splits her time between offering her home-baked goods a couple of Saturdays a month and introducing the people of Tokyo to British delights with her cooking class. She has also published a book and started selling through her online storefront.

This spring, Mornington Crescent is pumping out hot cross buns just in time for Easter. Classic British pastries like these keep homesick Brits lining up on open bakery days and curious locals booking up classes faster than they can say “Mornington Crescent”. Seasonal selections are always in high demand, from mince pies to simnel cake, but classic comfort foods are available year-round. Battenberg, scones and towering Victoria sponge with smears of jam are hard for any gluten fan to resist.

• Address: Casa do Namiki 101, 2-14-3 Higashi Azabu, Minato ward, Tokyo
• Hours: Open bakery days: roughly twice a month. (Check website for details.)
• What to order: Battenberg cake, Victoria sponge, scones

3. Burcu Alkurt-Firat (Netherlands): Pide Kamakura

© Photo by Pide Kamakura

Pide (PEA-day) in Kamakura has exploded on social media in a few short weeks. The tiny shop was opened in early 2025 by Burcu Alkurt-Firat and her husband. Pide is the name of a favorite bread from Burcu’s father’s bakery. Their dream is for Pide to become a community center of sorts, where shared happiness and culture bloom through yeasty sourdough loaves and hand-whipped butter. From noon to gone on weekends, the cubby-sized bakery is wrapped in customers of all ages and ethnicities.

© Photo by Pide Kamakura

Burcu’s parents were Turkish immigrants who operated a bakery in Amsterdam. At 25, she moved to Norway, where she became enamored with sourdough bread. After coming to Japan, it took some time for Burcu to acclimate herself to a new country—different palates and ingredients were a hurdle at first. However, Pide is now quickly becoming the type of relationship-centric space its owners dreamed of creating. Despite only operating for a few months at the time of publishing, it’s clear the bakery has already become a special weekend pilgrimage spot.

• Address: 4-1-1 Omachi, Kamakura, Kanagawa Prefecture
• Hours: Sat and Sun 12 p.m. to sold out
• What to order: BMO (bread, butter and cheese), cardamom buns

4. Lauren Rose Kocher (U.S.): Buy Me Stand

Buy Me Stand, a beloved grilled-cheese shop in Shibuya, has been slinging sandwiches for over a decade. At the new location, diners can enjoy the same classics in speedy fashion with the permanent food-truck trailer. Of course, there’s the eponymous “Buy Me” sandwich, but also interesting creations like cinnamon toast with a side of milk for dipping and the “Son of the Cheese,” a four-cheese blend that is also the name of the founder’s fashion brand.

© Photo by Kazuharu Igarashi

The Sendagaya opening marked a bittersweet milestone. The shop was never meant to be Lauren Rose Kocher’s business, and until the untimely death of her husband, Kaito, it wasn’t. A successful founder herself and a skilled professional, Kocher took up the reins to keep her husband’s business—and legacy—thriving. Her own venture, Vegas PR, is in the entertainment business, working on PR and marketing for anime, musicians, and other creative media with a need for English communications.

• Address: Tokyo Apartment Namiki Bridge 202, 1-31-19 Higashi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
• Hours: 8 a.m.-5 p.m.; Breakfast: 8 a.m.-11 a.m.; Lunch: 8 a.m.-3 p.m.
• What to order: Son of the Cheese, Hella Green

5. Holly Graham (U.K.): Tokyo Confidential Bar

© Photo by Tokyo Confidential Bar

Holly Graham hails from the UK, but her career is rooted in Asia. From a brief stint as an English teacher in Thailand and Korea, to a decade living in Hong Kong, where she was the Food and Drink Editor of Time Out, before bartending at The Old Man and returning to writing as the Managing Editor of DRiNK Magazine and author of Cocktails of Asia. In late 2023, she moved to Tokyo, and the explosive opening of her first bar, Tokyo Confidential, made Holly an important figure in Asia’s food and dining scene. Her creative cocktails and boundless energy find an easy home in Tokyo, especially when paired with the bar’s infamous hot dogs and globally-inspired drinks that utilise local ingredients at Tokyo Confidential.

© Photo by Tokyo Confidential Bar

The bar distills Holly’s passions for communication and imbibement into one raucous, nightly party. The salvaged tori gate wooden reverse horseshoe bar makes the space feel both open and intimate, a fitting scene for Tokyo Confidential’s motto of Pull Up, Fess Up. Holly can be seen behind the counter as often as jumping on top of it, hamming up her huge personality for the crowd. The friendly vibes at Tokyo Confidential are inviting, but the cocktails themselves are works of art only a seasoned professional could pour.

• Address: The V-City Azabujuban Place 9F, 1-6-1 Azabujuban, Minato-ku, Tokyo
• Hours: 6 p.m.-late. Until midnight on Sundays.
• What to order: Cheung Fun Old Fashioned, Mugi Boogie, hot dogs

We Want To Keep Growing This List!

Tokyo’s female-led eateries and watering holes feature the distinct character and history of their owners. For a taste of home—yours or theirs—make a visit to one of the locations listed above.

If you know of any other foreign-female owned eateries in Tokyo, let us know! Contact us or comment down below!

During peak seasons, making dining reservations is borderline essential. Fortunately, there are more ways than ever to book Japan’s sought-after restaurants for a vacation or night out. To make sure you’re finding eateries that best fit your budget, dining style and travel needs, compare the pros and cons of these English-language restaurant reservation booking sites in Japan before you reserve!

1. Tabelog

© Photo by Tabelog

Tabelog is the largest restaurant site in Japan. The multilingual version runs simply on browsers and can be accessed on a PC or smartphone. It lists hundreds of thousands of restaurants and relies on user feedback to create new listings. A Tabelog 3.0+ rating is considered very good. It’s a good option for finding food in under-touristed destinations.

Pros:

• It has any genre of food and even omiyage (souvenirs)
• Great for casual/family reservations
• Covers the entire country and all price points
• Well-respected and widely recognized locally
• User-powered, with real pictures of food and interior for most eateries
• No account needed to reserve

Cons:

• The reservation process is clunky and time-consuming, plus fees.
• Compared to the number of listed restaurants, the English site offers limited reservation options.
• English-language users cannot participate in ratings/account creation
• Overwhelming options

Try it yourself: https://tabelog.com/en/

2. GMO Omakase Japan: Eatinerary

© Photo by GMO Omakase Japan: Eatinerary

Eatinerary is the English-language offshoot of GMO’s Omakase booking service. Eatinerary focuses on fine dining options and is an official partner of the Michelin Guide. Thanks to exclusive contracts and partnerships, sought-after reservations at extremely popular restaurants can sometimes be booked immediately.

Pros: 

• Michelin Guide Partner, internationally respected
• Vetted eateries, high-quality options
• Guaranteed seats at some hard-to-book restaurants

Cons:

• No keyword search can make finding desired restaurants challenging
• Reservation requests aren’t guaranteed in all cases
• Limited to fine dining options

Try it yourself: https://omakaseje.com/

3. Savor Japan

© Photo by Savor Japan

Savor Japan, by Hitosara, a part of the USEN corporation, is widely respected by chefs and goes in-depth to introduce the people behind the cuisine. You can filter restaurants by whether they offer Western cutlery or have English-speaking staff on site. Chef-recommended restaurants are an interesting feature of this site, which the official Japanese Tourism Bureau backs.

Pros: 

• In-depth information about restaurants, chefs, regions and more.
• Many historically relevant restaurants for a culture deep-dive
• A lot of interesting content

Cons:

• The website is busy and can be intimidating to navigate
• Better suited to intense foodies, at-a-glance searching can be daunting
• Mostly high-end restaurants

Try it yourself: https://savorjapan.com/

4. TableCheck

© Photo by TableCheck

Tablecheck has quickly expanded across the globe. It is definitely more of a booking site than a tourist-focused platform. Tablecheck has partnerships with Visa, allowing the service to offer discounts and an integrated payment system for contactless payments—you can just eat and leave. However, some restaurants actually require an upfront payment. Restaurants register and pay for Tablecheck as a management service, meaning that the restaurant manages courses, seats, booking availability and so on directly from Tablecheck’s admin side.

Pros: 

• All-in-one search-booking-payment service
• Sleek modern design with iPhone app and global presence
• Restaurants manage their pages themselves
• No need to register for an account

Cons:

• Only paid, opt-in restaurants are available
• Search functions work significantly better on desktop than on mobile
• Mostly higher-end restaurants, less catered to tourists

Try it yourself: https://www.tablecheck.com/en/japan

5. Japan byFood

© Photo by Japan byFood

This service is built by foreigners, for foreigners. Each of the nearly 13,500 restaurants listed on byFood has been personally contacted. It features listings and descriptions written by actual humans instead of auto-translate. Japan byFood is also a tour platform. It partners with locals to offer exclusive experiences that go beyond restaurants. Although byFood charges a fee to book with them, each restaurant booking donates meals to underprivileged countries.

Pros: 

• All price ranges represented, good for group bookings
• Can also book tours/experiences
• Foreigner-Japanese co-owned company 
• Donates to charity

Cons: 

• Smaller restaurant pool than some Japanese brands
• Booking fees and upfront costs
• Reservations are not guaranteed in all cases
• Heavily tourism-focused brand

Try it yourself: https://www.byfood.com/

6. Pocket Concierge

© Photo by Pocket Concierge

Pocket Concierge features in-depth histories, stories and delicious imagery (both visual and verbal) for every restaurant on its site. It’s unique because it offers the option of being put on a waitlist instead of getting an outright “no” from popular restaurants and publicly announced collaborations/events. The company is backed by American Express.

Pros: 

• Beautiful, educational restaurant introductions
• Waitlist options at high-quality, vetted venues
• Highlights special events and collaborations
• Integrated payments

Cons: 

• Credit card pre-registration is needed
• Only high-end restaurants
• Reservations are not guaranteed in all cases
• Limited locations (Tokyo, Yokohama, Osaka, Kyoto only)

Try it yourself: https://pocket-concierge.jp/en

7. Tableall

© Photo by Tableall

Tableall prides itself on guaranteed booking reservations by purchasing seats at partner restaurants ahead of time. In exchange, users need to sign up for membership and pay a substantial booking fee. Tableall is Singapore-based but has been run by a Japanese national since 2016. Restaurant listings read more like articles and are likely to leave diners salivating before they ever click reserve.

Pros: 

• Beautiful, educational restaurant introductions
• Immediate reservations
• Great, captivating English

Cons: 

• High up-front costs
• Limited selection
• Only high-end restaurants
• No keyword search function for pinpointing

Try it yourself: https://www.tableall.com/

8. Foodies Reserve

© Photo by Foodies Reserve

Foodies Reserve was launched at the end of 2024 and is still widely unknown. It was founded by Takashi Sugai, who also launched the domestic, invitation-only gourmet reservation-sharing site Foodies Prime. Foodies Reserve holds some exclusive reservation openings for notoriously hard-to-book restaurants and partners directly to offer locally coveted seats at Japan’s best-kept secrets.

Pros: 

• Restaurants not available anywhere else/secret offerings
• The peak of what’s new in restaurants
• Easy to discover new restaurants at many price points
• Hard-to-book restaurants made available

Cons: 

• Limited offerings and locations
• The site uses auto-translated English, not a seamless experience
• Still too small to judge the overall quality

Try it yourself: https://www.foodies-reserve.com/en

Bonus: Eat Tokyo

© Photo by Eat Tokyo

Eat Tokyo is a multi-pronged service by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government, including a “Search Page for Restaurants with Multilingual Menus,” which benefits restaurants as much as users. Eat Tokyo verifies self-registered restaurants and details and lists them on its search board. In exchange, the restaurants get free access to all-you-can-translate printable and digital multilingual menus using official translations. Although it’s not actually possible to reserve restaurants on this site, the Eat Japan library is deployed on public GO Japan kiosks and is a handy search tool.

Pros: 

• Halal, Vegan and Allergy-friendly complete menus
• Officially backed by the Tokyo Government
• Offers support to restaurants on the backend
• All price ranges represented

Cons: 

• Can’t actually make reservations
• The site is incredibly difficult to get to—impossible to stumble upon
• Can be hard to actually find what you’re looking for (major areas like Nakameguro for example, are missing) and only works in Tokyo

Try it yourself: https://menu-tokyo.jp/

Final Remarks

Each of these English-language restaurant reservation services in Japan offers unique restaurants, services and particulars. There is no one “right service,” but after considering the pros and cons of each, which one are you most likely to use?

When it comes to LGBTQ+ spaces in Tokyo, the lion’s share lives in Shinjuku Ni-chome. While Ni-chome’s well-known nightlife is great for the right mood, it’s hard to capture the tenderness of gazing into each other’s eyes over a drink when the soundtrack is bass music and shouting. We sniffed out six queer-positive eateries in Tokyo that don’t limit the fun to bar time.

1. Alamas Cafe
2. Seijo Sakedokoro En
3. Cafe & Bar Hinata
4. Shinjuku Dialogue
5. Dorobune
6. Roy to Silo

While you’ll certainly be able to get a beer at most featured establishments, we’ve picked spots where alcohol isn’t the main focus. Conveniently, many of the locations we scouted are located around tour hubs and areas with solid support for foreigners, guests and tourists alike.

Alamas Cafe

© Photo by Alamas Cafe

The menu at Alamas Cafe leans tex-mex with its focus on loaded street-style tacos and nachos. Though the name Alamas comes from the Thai language, Christian iconography and Mexican fiesta energy inspire much of the decor at this Ni-chome eatery. Looking at the venue’s X (formally Twitter) page would give the impression that this is just another theme-y bar, but you can pop in confident that you’re going to find some real food. It’s a good Uber-eats option too if you’re hungry and still want to support the community.

The cafe is operated by Aliving, a company that also runs Aisotope Lounge, Aiiro Cafe (not a cafe, for the record, but an English-friendly bar and LGBQ+ life resource) and Avant Garde Tokyo.

• Address: 2-12-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku Ward, Tokyo
• Price: ¥1,000～¥1,999
• Hours: Weekdays: 6 p.m.–2 a.m.; Fri, Sat, Sundays before a holiday: 6 p.m.–5 a.m. the next day; Sundays, holidays: 3 p.m.–12 a.m.

Seijo Sakedokoro En

© Photo by Seijo Sakedokoro En

In many ways, En is an izakaya like any other. Homey Japanese dishes fill patrons up after a long workday. Here, “toriaezu, nama” (the Japanese equivalent of “Just a beer for now!”) is a cultural equalizer, not just an order. Located about three minutes from Seijo Gakuen-mae station, you won’t see the owners of En making a big deal of their connection to the LGBTQ sphere. Instead, their pride comes from a commitment to fresh ingredients and a genuine appreciation for good nihonshu (sake).

We recommend this spot for couples who aren’t looking for a place that’s loud and proud. Instead, En offers a chance for queer couples to fully enjoy a simple and very real experience. Come here for karaage and hand-holding under the table without worrying about a sideways glance.

• Location: Royal Garden Seijo 1F, 6-3-15 Seijo, Setagaya Ward, Tokyo
• Price: ¥2,000～¥2,999
• Hours: 2 p.m.-10:30 p.m. (Last order at 9:30) (Closed Tues/Wed)

Cafe & Bar Hinata

© Photo by Cafe & Bar Hinata

Hinata opens at three and runs into the night at its fifth-floor venue in Ikebukuro. The space has Japanese “bal” bistro energy like a patissier crashed into an izakaya. We love it though, because the freedom and creativity that flow through Hinata’s menu make it especially welcoming. Hinata’s appeal reaches into the hearts of women looking for a space to be themselves.

Aside from being no-boys-allowed, Hinata has one more quirk: smoked meats are the specialty. Popular menu items like ham-donburi (a rice bowl topped with house-made ham), smoked bacon and eggs, and even cream cheese aren’t what you’d typically expect to find in a place that also offers lattes and chiffon cake. If you’ve ever felt too worried about scarfing down smoky bacon and saucy, spicy noodles in front of others, this is the spot to let it all hang out.

• Address: Dai-3 Tsunagari 5F, 1-1-14 Ikebukuro Toshima Ward, Tokyo 
• Price: ¥1,000～¥1,999
• Hours: 3 p.m.–11 p.m. Closed Tues and one other day a week (check calendar)
• Remarks: Women only.

Shinjuku Dialogue

© Photo by Shinjuku Dialogue

Order a drink and donate 50 yen to one of the designated sustainable development goals. Beer, soft drinks, coffee—take your pick! Then order a vegan lunch plate to go with it. Dialogue commits itself to forming close ties with local farms and offering a menu that highlights plant-based and fermented foods.

This Shinjuku San-chome cafe brings individuals from all walks of life together to consider how we can move towards a brighter future. With contemporary ways of thinking and a palpable concern for the way things are going, Dialogue invites all people to enjoy food prepared with respect for each other and the planet.

• Address: Shinjuku Building 1, Hall 2, F3, 3-1-32 Shinjuku, Shinjuku Ward, Tokyo 
• Price: ¥1,000～¥1,999
• Hours: Cafe: 11 a.m.-5 p.m.; Bar: 6 p.m.-11 p.m. (closed Mon, Tue)

Dorobune

© Photo by Dorobune

Dorobune is loved for its izakaya atmosphere, but the philosophy of its specialty is the real kicker. After all, okonomiyaki and life are both most enjoyable when you honor your own preferences!

The menu includes a solid variety of other dishes too, including salad, gnocchi, pickles and udon specially sourced from a long-running maker in Koenji. Dorobune is the place to go for Okonomiyaki and other teppan dishes with a group of friends and even pets! While men are allowed with recommendations or accompanied by women, Saturday is a girls-only day, so keep that in mind!

• Addres: Tokyo, Shinjuku-ward, Shinjuku 2-7-3, Vera Heights Shinjuku Gaien 205
• Price: ¥1,000～¥1,999
• Hours: Tues-Thu, Sun:  7 p.m.-12 a.m. (last order at 11 p.m.); Fri: 7 p.m.-1 a.m., (last order at midnight); Sat: women only, 7 p.m.-1 a.m. (last order at midnight); Closed Mon
• Remarks: Dog-friendly. Men must be accompanied by a woman on the first visit.

Roy To Silo

© Photo by Roy to Silo

This evening-only dessert bar is inspired by a children’s book featuring two male penguins, Roy and Silo, who raise a chick. The owners don’t rely on gimmicks to make a sale though, as cute as the penguin mascots may be. Instead, they pour their hearts into hand-made whipped cream and vanilla ice cream parfaits.

Occasionally, Roy To Silo opens for afternoon tea events and offers novel twists, such as warm parfaits in winter. Hungry guests can try the curry too, but we recommend going for the classic vanilla parfait with a bonus dollop of whipped cream served tableside.

• Address: Reo-su Building 3F, 2-41-3 Kabuki-cho,  Shinjuku Ward, Tokyo
• Price: ¥2,000～¥2,999
• Hours: Wed/Thurs: 8 p.m.-1 a.m (last order at midnight, 60 min seat limit); Saturdays: 8 p.m.-2 a.m. (last order at 1 a.m., 60 min seat limit); Sundays: 1 p.m.-5:30 p.m. by reservation only

Have you been to any of these spots or recommend any other LGBTQ+ owned eateries in Tokyo? Let us know!

A note from the author: While different cultures and individuals choose to adopt many different definitions of “woman”, we cannot guarantee what definition these women-only establishes prescribe to, so as always–be true to yourself and protect your energy.

Shimane Prefecture snakes along the coast of Honshu, Japan’s main island, facing the Sea of Japan and Korea. Its land is rich in many things. Fertile soils that paint the region green, legends of powerful spirits and, of course, the treasured iron sands that defined Okuizumo’s cultural and economic prosperity.

This area exudes a timelessness that is carefully kept in balance. Structures that have stood for hundreds of years contrast the cyclical give-and-take between craftsmen and nature. To explore Okuizumo is to experience the lived philosophy of Japan and retrace its history.

Hidden Masters

© Photo by Japan Heritage Official Site

The imagery of the samurai, katana (the traditional Japanese sword portrayed in media) in hand, is one of the prevailing icons of Japanese culture. Iron for these swords is largely sourced here, in Shimane. 

The manufacture of tamahagane, translated to “precious steel,”  has supported the growth of Okuizumo for 1,400 years. Izumonokuni Tatara Fudoki connects the story of the Okuizumo area to the traditional methods used to transform iron sand into tamahagane. It was registered on Japan Heritage in 2016.

The world’s last clay tatara forge can be found in the Sugaya Tatara Sannai area of Yoshida-cho. Although the area is no longer in operation, guests can tour the facility and explore the historical bellows and equipment.

The Tanabe family, who once led the area’s tatara iron manufacturing, now in their 25th generation, has revitalized the town with new business ventures while preserving its traditions. Yoshida-cho appears unchanged since their family storehouses that serve as its centerpiece were erected hundreds of years ago. A stroll around town reveals the daily lives of Okuizumo’s residents and remaining craftsmen.

An Enduring Legacy of Steel

© Photo by Japan Heritage Official Site

The Tatara method of steel manufacturing largely fell out of practice after WWII. However, its legacy is preserved in the hearts and hearths of local artisans. While samurai swords are no longer in vogue, for 200 years Kajikobo Hiromitsu’s family-run forge has used tamahagane steel to create timeless home goods imbued with rustic elegance.

The Japanese spirit can be felt in the hand-smithed lanterns, candlesticks and fry pans produced here. Guests can even reserve a visit to their workshop if they wish to meet the shokunin (master craftsmen) for a hands-on introduction to local metalsmithing (be sure to make reservations in advance).

Okuizumo’s Natural Bounty

© Photo by Japan Heritage Official Site

Tamahagane formed the backbone of the regional industry as Izumo grew. Its production is carved into the landscape—both culturally and physically. A simple walk through the woods reveals much more than the beautiful scenery.

Producing the charcoal that fueled tatara forges relied on cutting the area’s old-growth trees. At the peak of production, entire forests and mountains were owned by wealthy steel-producing families for the express purpose of making charcoal.

Shimane is shaded by impressive timber groves, preserved by a 30-year recycling system of reduction and reforestation. Former iron-sand extraction sites have been returned to verdure in the form of terraced rice fields. These areas now support another time-honored venture: the production of sake rice.

Just as cold water is vital to tempering steel, the clear mountain streams that feed stunning waterfalls like Ryuzugataki are a key factor in the Okuizumo’s nihonshu (sake) production. Rice cultivated here is unique to the area—and proudly used by its best sake brewers.

Drinking & Dining in Okuizumo

© Photo by Japan Heritage Official Site

Shimane is said to be the birthplace of nihonshu, based on a legend dating back to the first historical mention of sake found in a chapter of the Nihon Shoki. It’s also said that the gods of the country spend seven days in Izumo from Oct. 11 to Oct. 17 to have divine deliberations about sake brewing and matchmaking. Sake is such a deep part of Shimane’s heritage that famous brewers from around the country offer their best bottles to the gods at Izumo Taisha.

It’s no wonder five generations of brewers who have operated Sake Mochida Honten since 1877 take their work so seriously. The brewery’s Yamasan Masamune is a prized local variety brewed according to a lasting tradition. Guests can sample Mochida’s sake while learning about its finer points through guided experiences hosted in the main building, a designated Cultural Property.

Not to be overlooked, the soul food of this area is equally impressive. From industry to agriculture, down to the meals on family tables, Okuizumo is characterized by its attention to a sense of purity and cleanliness. The flavor of its native food mirrors the lightness of shining steel and clear streams.

Taimeshi is a regional donburi (rice bowl with toppings) that represents one of the oldest dishes in Japan. Tai (sea bream), also thought to be the first fish eaten as sashimi, is known for its delicate flavor and pink-white flesh. Minamikan Ryokan’s dashi-accented take on tai is served atop fluffy white rice with simple flavors like egg and wakame seaweed, bringing this humble ingredient to a new life.

Artfully Designed Luxury Stays

© Photo by Japan Heritage Official Site

Both daytime and overnight visitors to Minamikan can enjoy a taste of taimeshi in its splendid dining room. Here, kaiseki-style dining captures the traditional Japanese course meal with exquisite plating and local ingredients prepared by skilled chefs.

Minamikan has been featured in international publications as an outstanding example of the Japanese ryokan experience. Established in 1888, Minamikan is characterized by its artistic history, from it’s remarkable architecture to its use as a hub for Japan’s artists and writers. The facility’s 16 exclusive guest rooms combine traditional Japanese architecture with a retro-modern air. The lodgings feature traditional tatami and joinery with Western influence—all of which are best enjoyed in one of the provided yukata, a light kimono for casual wear.

© Photo by Japan Heritage Official Site

The ryokan’s most enchanting feature is its meticulously maintained Japanese garden that overlooks Lake Shinji. Each viewpoint offers a fresh perspective of the manicured grounds. As guests walk through the halls, they’ll see why the garden has become one of the venue’s defining features.

The Nature of Okuizumo

© Photo by Japan Heritage Official Site

Today, Shimane prefecture has the second lowest population in the world’s most popular travel destination. Yet settlements in Shimane have existed since the earliest days of Japan’s history. Thanks to an enduring legacy, the region’s ancient tradition has played an instrumental role in building the defining cultural imagery of Japan.

For a breath of fresh air, go beyond the well-worn paths to uncover the source of Japan’s charm in Okuizumo’s timeless landscape.

According to Loann Halden, VP of communications at the International LGBTQ+ Travel Association, Japan is fortunate to have a relatively queer-friendly culture. Compared to many other APAC region nations, Japan’s government and society are welcoming to sexual minorities and take measures to make the community feel safe and accepted. However, tight-lipped Tokyo can still be a hard place to be 100% of your authentic self for anyone, much less members of the LGBTQ+ community. We’ve rounded up a reliable set of LGBTQ+ activities and events in Tokyo where queer folk are encouraged to be themselves while building connections and having a great time.

Every Day Can Be “Gay Day”

Campy Bar Shibuya

© Photo by Campy Bar Shibuya

Famous or infamous, Campy Bar provides a safe and casual place for members of the community to gather. The original location remains clustered among the many LGBTQ+ bars and clubs in Ni-Chome Shinjuku. However, this time we want to make a point to highlight spaces that are queer-friendly but don’t necessarily carry the pressure of Ni-chome’s nightlife scene (which, frankly, is not for everyone). Thankfully, Campy Bar’s success has allowed it to open a second location in a much friendlier part of town.

Campy Bar Shibuya is tucked into a back corner next to a fortune-telling booth—where we suspect they feel right at home. Nightly drinks and light bites are hosted by Campy Bar’s drag-dressed staff, all of whom are experts in standing out while making guests feel right at home. The bar is open until 5 a.m., and there’s no cover charge for general seating.

• Hours: Campy Bar Shibuya Parco: 7 p.m.-5 a.m.; Campy Bar Original: 7 p.m.-4 a.m. (Mon-Sat), 5 p.m.-12 a.m. (Sun)
• Where: Campy Bar Shibuya Parco: Shibuya Parco B1, 15-1 Udagawacho, Shibuya, Tokyo; Campy Bar Original: Musashino Building 1F, 2−13−10 Shinjuku, Tokyo

Tokyo Disney Resort

© Photo by Tokyo Disney Resort

While Disneyland in other countries might set aside special dates or events for “Gay Day” celebrations, visitors to Tokyo Disneyland will be happy to hear that the parks provide a welcoming space for LGBTQ+ people every day of the year. Starting in 2012 with its first LGBTQ+ wedding ceremony, Tokyo Disneyland has been an active supporter of the community.

Celebrate “Gay Day” any time you visit Tokyo Disneyland with exclusive Pride merchandise lines. These are released around the same time as the Tokyo Rainbow Pride parade (in spring) and sold throughout the year. It may not be an official calendar event but the magic of Disney makes any visit to the park a special enough outing that we feel it should be included!

• Hours: 9 a.m.-9 p.m.
• Where: Tokyo Disney Resorts, 1-1 Maihama, Urayasu, Chiba
• Ticket Price: ¥7,900-¥10,900

Monthly Events

Tokyo Comedy Bar

© Photo by Tokyo Comedy Bar

On the third Wednesday of each month, the Tokyo Comedy Bar (TCB) hosts an LGBTQ+ comedian-only show. Located just a few steps away from Shibuya station, TCB has long been a haven for foreigners of diverse backgrounds to get together and laugh at the shared tribulations of expat life. At-the-door ticketing is welcome, but space is tight, so advance tickets are recommended. If comedy’s not your thing, the attached bar offers a good opportunity to meet other queer people without buying a seat for the show.

• When: Third Wed of the month from 9 p.m. (Show doors open 8:30 p.m.)
• Bar Hours: 6 p.m.-12 a.m. (Sun from 5 p.m.)
• Where: The Renga 3F, 1-5-9 Dogenzaka, Shibuya City, Tokyo
• Ticket Price: ¥2,000

Taimei Book Cafe

© Photo by iStock: Christina Vartanova

For anyone who can speak Japanese (or is satisfied just being a welcoming space) Taimei Book Cafe in Ikebukuro offers a monthly consultation event. It’s a space to gather and seek resources and support or share stories about work-life in Japan as a member of the LGBTQ+ community. As an expat or foreigner living in Tokyo, consider these meetings a safe space to talk openly with peers about struggles and personal concerns when it comes to living and working in Japan. Invite friends for a heart-to-heart surrounded by books and zero judgment.

• When: Monthly (varies, announced on site)
• Where: Taimei Book Cafe, Ikebukuro

Annual Events

Tokyo Rainbow Pride

© Photo by Tokyo Rainbow Pride

The biggest and best-known queer-friendly event in Tokyo is the Tokyo Rainbow Pride Festival and Parade, which happens in the spring every year. The 2024 edition will be happening right at the peak of cherry blossom season, from April 19 to 21, so attendees can look forward to the addition of one more color to the rainbow.

Every year the vendors and performances are a little different, but representatives from around the world gather to celebrate and say a few words in support. Last year that included members of the British, German and Canadian Embassies. Corporate sponsors such as Soup Stock Tokyo also make appearances. More than an opportunity to experience a huge LGBTQ+-focused event, Tokyo Rainbow Pride provides a chance to support businesses owned by other members of the community and discover resources that aren’t as active on online channels.

The festival takes place in Yoyogi Park from about midday to 6 p.m. all weekend long. The parade held on Sunday from 1 p.m. cuts through Shibuya and Harajuku too. Participants can just come out in their rainbow best and enjoy the festivities!

Additionally, Tokyo has hosted a dedicated Trans March in the fall of the past three years. The Trans March is expected to return in 2024 sometime around November in Shinjuku Chuo Park. Since this is a relatively new event, keep your eyes out for official details in the coming months.

• When: Annually in Spring
• 2024 Dates: Fri, Apr. 19-Sun, Apr. 21 from 11 a.m.-6 p.m. (Fri from 1 p.m.)
• Where: Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogikamizonocho, Shibuya City, Tokyo
• Ticket Price: Free (for most events)

Bills Pride Celebration at Omotesando

© Photo by Bills

Celebrate Pride at Bills Omotesando, an Australian restaurant that reflects the country’s sunny, easy-going and generous spirit. For one afternoon, see drag performances by the likes of Labianna Pinklady, Kosmic Sans and Sasha B Savannah. Come as you are and treat yourself to an afternoon of great performers and tasty treats. From April 20 to 28, 2024 all sales from avocado toast orders will be given to ReBit, an NPO that supports LGBTQ+ community initiatives.

• 2024 Dates: Sat, Apr. 20 from 1 p.m.-2 p.m.
• Where: Tokyu Plaza, Omotesando Harajuku 7F 4-30-3 Jingu-Mae, Shibuya, Tokyo
• Ticket Price: Order something on their menu, sit down and enjoy the show!

LGBTQ+ Resources

© Photo by iStock: electravk

A great Japanese resource for LGBTQ+ events, community connections and more is B-Light Japan. This service not only features large events, like a list of pride parades across Japan, but makes a point to highlight individuals, organizations and businesses that exist to improve the lives of LGBTQ+ people.

Nijiiro Diversity, an NPO backed by big-name supporters like Tokyo Disneyland (N.D. is the main recipient of fundraising from Tokyo Disneyland’s Pride-goods sales) also disseminates information about groups, events and support for LGBTQ+ community members across the country.

Finding community as a queer person in Tokyo

If possible, try reaching out to others you already know in the same circle or public services like Meet Up to begin with. Anyone who has moved to a new city alone knows that it’s rarely so easy to find spaces you can feel comfortable in right out the gate. For this reason, joining official events and participating in larger public gatherings can offer safety (as opposed to meeting a small group of strangers) and an opportunity to build community at one’s own pace.

Are any LGBTQ+ events in Tokyo already on your calendar? Let us know!

Japan has a pretty high reputation for being unaccommodating to folks with ink on their skin. Incidents range from common ones like being restricted to certain gyms and onsen, to borderline unbelievable, like being refused from entering restaurants. The stigma comes from a complicated history (spanning the Meiji Restoration, yakuza activity and even samurai punishments) that boils down to “tattoos are a symbol of criminality.” Considering this, how did an average office worker like myself deem Tokyo as the best place for my first tattoo?

From Consultation To Commitment

© Photo by Sydney Seekford

Living in Japan, more than my own preferences had to be taken into account. For one, I’d like to continue going to onsen (hot springs) and sento (public bath) facilities. To do so freely, the tattoo couldn’t be so big that I couldn’t cover it. In preparation, I got a set of large, water-proof bandaids from Welcia and handed it to my artist. Together we measured the size of the tattoo stencil against the pad. Fortunately, the size I requested fit neatly under the bandage.

The studio was kept as cleanly as anything you would come to expect from a Japanese shop. It was neatly decorated with amply sized massage tables, plenty of bright lighting and disinfectants. After an hour of prep—straightening the stencil, reconfirming the design and setting up tools—we got to work. Two hours and some wincing later, we were finally finished and I strutted out into the chilly Tokyo winter.

An Artist’s Perspective

© Photo by Sydney Seekford

During my session, I chatted with one of the tattoo artists working in the studio about their day-to-day. Located in Harajuku, Ken (whose name has been changed for privacy), said a lot of tourists come in looking for souvenirs of their trip.

The flashes he showed me were all classic Americana style, his specialty, but many of them had Japanese motifs. Another artist specializes in irezumi (traditional Japanese tattoo) looks using modern electric equipment. Yet, a third of what they do is kawaii art. The talent is on par with reputable tattoo studios abroad. The artists have clearly taken the time to develop their skills and sensibilities.

It’s mostly just normal people that come in. The stories they tell me are far more interesting than any story I have about them.

Although Ken says many foreign customers come in and request a flash, they also work by appointment to develop and offer original work. When I asked if he had any wild stories about guests wanting some offensive or absurd Japanese thing, he said it does happen, but usually only by misunderstanding. One example was “馬鹿” (baka, meaning idiot, in kanji).

“When guests come in requesting kanji or something that might come off as weird or miss the mark meaning-wise, we make sure to tell them and offer suggestions for something that would be more appropriate.”

Ken says it’s not hard to convince guests since no one wants to make a fool of themselves. Especially not by getting a tattoo in a foreign country!

“It’s mostly just normal people that come in. The stories they tell me are far more interesting than any story I have about them.”

From Taboo to Trend: Changing Views

© Photo by Sydney Seekford

During our chat, I also asked why Ken felt it was getting more popular for people to get tattoos, even here in Japan, where it is traditionally taboo.

In his opinion, it has nothing to do with copying the West, even if his sailor tattoos tell a different story. Rather, tattoos are getting more visibility. Young people with tattoos are not only growing up to be normal members of society, but they’re posting about their ink on social media and normalizing the culture. With a growing association of tattoos with youth, instead of criminal activity, even Japan is gradually becoming more accepting.

When I asked him why he decided to be a tattoo artist, the reply was equally profound and simple. “I like tattoos, I have tattoos, I wanted a job where that would be ok. And I figured, if I were a tattoo artist, it would definitely be okay.”

Why I Recommend Getting Inked In Japan

© Photo by Sydney Seekford

Compared to the tattoo salons I visited to hold my friends’ shaky hands in the West, the facilities in Tokyo were cozy yet pristine. It was easy to feel completely safe and at ease. The atmosphere was professional, but not doctor’s office austere. In a word, because tattoos aren’t taken as lightly here as abroad, it’s easy to feel the care taken by tattoo artists for both their craft and their space.

Getting inked remains relatively rare in Japan, but it is a legal practice, especially since as of 2020, tattoo artists have been approved to practice without requiring a medical license. Japan has as much a reputation for good service as it does for being uptight about tattoos. This translates to safety, comfort and a commitment to making sure I got exactly what I wanted, even with a language barrier.

Living With A Tattoo In Japan

© Photo by Foundation Tape, Tattoo Masker, Suhada Seal

Now that I’ve committed, I decided to do my homework to make sure I don’t have to compromise between my ink and my life. Hopefully, these products can help me avoid trouble when I head off to bathe with strangers:

• Foundation Tape
• Tattoo Masker
• Suhada Seal

Changing attitudes and expanded privileges have come a long way in making tattooed folk feel welcome. Yokohama offers a look at Japan’s ink culture at the Bunshin Tattoo Museum. Here curators are still working to help dispel the prejudice surrounding Japan’s rich but controversial tattooing history. It’s a great place to visit to do some real studying on the matter, but as for me, I’ll learn from experience.

What was your Tokyo tattoo experience like? Let us know in the comments.

Ghibli has captured the hearts of viewers, young and old, with beguiling storylines and visuals. The Boy and The Heron’s international acclaim, plus the imminent completion of the Ghibli Park this year, has rekindled a certain Miyazaki-themed magic. In honor of our favorite couples, here are six Ghibli-inspired date ideas in Tokyo.

Howl and Sophie from Howl’s Moving Castle: Jindaiji Area

© Photo by iStock: Korekore

Recreate Howl and Sophie’s time in their secret garden with a visit to Jindaiji, an area of West Tokyo. Stroll through the Jindai Botanical Gardens and enjoy the feeling of getting lost among the flowers. The park covers over 120 acres of green space, flower beds and water features. Romantic rose ice cream and couple-friendly photo spots make it a fantastic date spot for flower viewing, even when cherry blossoms are out of season.

© Photo by Wikimedia Commons: User: (WT-shared) Chatnoir at wts wikivoyage

Nearby, couples can say a prayer at Jindaiji Temple. Pick up a love omamori (good luck token) before heading into the traditional craft town area. One of the buildings in this area is the culturally rich Jindaiji Watermill Museum. This museum operates a rustic water wheel just like the one attached to the workshop Howl set up for Sophie.

• Price: Jindai Botanical Garden entry: ¥500. Jindai Temple entry: Free! Jindaiji Watermill Museum entry: Free!
• Address: Jindai Botanical Gardens: 5-31-10 Jindaiji Motomachi, Chofu, Tokyo. Jindaiji Temple: 5-15-1 Jindaiji Motomachi, Chofu, Tokyo. Jindaiji Watermill Museum: 5-10-6 Jindaiji Motomachi, Chofu, Tokyo.

Kiki and Tombo from Kiki’s Delivery Service: Inokashira Park

© Photo by iStock: dar_st

Inokashira Park is already well known to Ghibli fans as being home to the Ghibli Museum. If you can escape the excitement around the museum, the fairytale shitamachi (home-towny) vibe of the surrounding area is even more enchanting. Wander into the wooded areas of the park, and you’ll quickly get a view of some fearless crows, just like Ursula’s. Some might call them a nuisance, but we consider it “cinematic immersion.”

© Photo by iStock: yamasan

Inokashira is cycle-friendly! Although none of them come with plucky boy mechanics—much less propellers—Hello Cycling provides easy rental bike services from nearby convenience stores. Better yet, recreate the rush of frantic pedaling in a swan boat around the Inokashira Pond. Pretend to race the other guests as you attempt to catch air. (Savvy won’t be liable for any penalties this might incur, however).

© Photo by Kaze no Sumika

Once you’ve worked up an appetite, round out the experience with a visit to Kaze no Sumika, a humble bakery just on the edge of the park. This community bakery offers crusty and snacky bread to suit all tastes.

• Price: Inokashira Park entry: Free! Hello Cycling: ¥130 within 30mins of use plus ¥100 every 15mins extended. Swan Boat: ¥800 (Row Boat: ¥500/Cycle Boat: ¥700) every 30mins.
• Address: Inokashira Park: 1-18-31 Gotenyama, Musashino, Tokyo. Kaze no Sumika: 1-14-3 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka, Tokyo.

Note: Swan Boats are newly reopened after renovations as of January 18, 2024

Ashitaka and San from Princess Mononoke: Wolves?

© Photo by Dog Cafe Grand Mou

For a step into Ashitaka and San’s wild world, how about a little excursion to the Northeast? Chiba and Northeastern Tokyo provide many opportunities for camping and enjoying the great outdoors. A must-visit place—to get your fill of a rare sight in Japan—resides in this area too. The sight? Big, fluffy dogs! Big Dog Cafe Grand Mou offers all the puppy love you can stand from Saint Bernards, Samoyeds and sheepdogs. Once you’ve enjoyed some well-meaning slobber, leave the wolves behind and head for the hills.

© Photo by Grand Lodge Field

Further into Chiba, Grand Lodge Field is a highly-rated camping ground, perfect for romantic overnight stays with a rustic element. For Tokyo daytrippers, a slow lap around Mizumoto Park and an evening barbeque end the day on a sweet note.

• Price: Big Dog Cafe Grand Mou play: ¥2,500 (weekdays), ¥3,000 (weekends) for 60 mins plus ¥300 for optional drink bar. Grand Lodge Field stay: ¥5,500~¥24,000. Mizumoto Park entry: Free! (The barbeque area must be reserved in advance—prices vary.)
• Address: Big Dog Cafe Grand Mou: 145-10 Matsuhidai, Matsudo, Chiba. Grand Lodge Field: 1618 Tega, Kashiwa, Chiba. Mizumoto Park: 3-2 Mizumotokoen, Katsushika City, Tokyo.

Porco and Gina from Proco Rosso: Swine and Wine in Meguro

© Photo by Meguro Mipig Cafe

Spend a Porco Rosso-inspired date in the elegant and international Meguro neighborhood. First, make a reservation for Meguro Mipig Cafe, where guests can enjoy a soft drink and playtime with lively miniature porkers. Polite (relatively speaking) and clean, the Mipig Cafe piglets are all in training to go to loving homes and live out their lives as pets.

© Photo by Rinascimento

Seats at Rinascimento are guaranteed to satisfy any true Ginas with a similarly playful but high-class Italian menu. Rinascimento’s most unique menu item is the galaxy of one-bite appetizers that open each course. The 120-bite arrangement consists of Michelin-starred caviar toast, truffle frittata, tiny gourmet hamburgers and more. Savoring each bite and trying to guess your date’s favorite is a couple activity nearly as fun as newlywed trivia…but a lot less stressful, thanks to the wine.

• Price: Meguro Mipig Cafe entry: ¥770 (pig play: ¥1,100 within 30mins). Rinascimento: ¥7,920~ (lunch), ¥9,900~ (dinner).
• Address: Meguro Mipig Cafe: 4-11-3 Meguro, Meguro City, Tokyo. Rinascimento: 2-23-2, Shimomeguro, Meguro City, Tokyo.

Note: For those concerned about bringing piggy perfume into the restaurant, Rinascimento lunch reservations are equally enjoyable and the Mipig Cafe is open until 8 p.m.

Haku and Chihiro from Spirited Away: Hidden Village Akiruno

© Photo by Seoto-no-yu

At first, we figured sending you to Tochigi to stay for a night in this onsen (hot spring) hotel that looks just like the Spirited Away bathhouse might be a good idea. But instead, we want you to try this one in Akiruno City!

© Photo by iStock: mutarusan

Akiruno, located West of Tokyo towards Tama, is well-known for the Akigawa River and its large pedestrian bridge. The bridge is pretty long, but if you walk really fast, you might just be able to hold your breath the whole way! Akiruno City’s lonely train station, with its stained glass and howling wind, even reminds us of Chichiro’s first steps in the film. Families enjoy the river throughout summer when sweet ayu fish are plentiful. However, taking a sawdust bath at one of the local facilities is a pretty good alternative to risking a lost shoe (we can’t guarantee a dragon will get it back for you).

© Photo by Scai the Bathhouse

For those who would prefer to stay in the city, Scai the Bathhouse is a free art gallery that invites artists from around the world to display their work in a renovated bathhouse. Scai is located near Yanaka Ginza, an old-fashioned shopping street known for its cat-theming. In particular, one shop is well known for its shippo (tail) cakes! It’s not a newt on a stick, but at least here, saying, “Just gimme the tail!” actually gets you something tasty.

• Price: Seoto-no-yu stay: ¥24,000~¥32,000. Sawdust Bath: ¥4,400. Scai the Bathhouse: Free! Tail cakes: ¥100~.
• Address: Seoto-no-yu: 565 Otsu, Akiruno, Tokyo. Akikawa Bridge: Totohara, Akiruno, Tokyo. Let’s Go Sawdust Bath: 213-6 Itsukaichi, Akiruno, Tokyo. Scai the Bathhouse: 6-1-23, Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo. Yanaka Ginza: 3-13-1 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo.

Ponyo and Sousuke from Ponyo: Goldfish Love Ham!

© Photo by Art Aquarium Museum

The Ginza neighborhood is easily accessible from most parts of Tokyo, making this date idea an easy choice for couples on a tight schedule. The Art Aquarium Museum features tanks of domestic goldfish in a Japanese-inspired, darkened environment. Although unrelated, fans of TeamLab’s immersive experiences will particularly appreciate walking through the uniquely shaped, illuminated tanks. Throughout the aquarium, dazzling colors and creative displays recreate the photo-friendly atmosphere of Borderless and Planets.

© Photo by Ramen Takahashi

Nearby, 90-year-old Choushi-ya is the perfect spot for a light Ponyo-inspired snack. Feed a love of ham with their beloved ham-katsu sandwich, made with special house sauce and pillowy white bread. For something more substantial, Ramen Takahashi’s salt ramen looks impressively similar to Ponyo and Sosuke’s rainy-day bowls.

• Price: Art Aquarium entry: ¥2,500. Choushi-ya ham-katsu sandwich: ¥350. Ramen Takahashi’s salt ramen: ¥1,000.
• Address: Art Aquarium Museum: 9F Mitsukoshi New Building, 4-6-16, Ginza, Chuo City, Tokyo. Choushi-ya: 3-11-6 Ginza, Chuo City, Tokyo. Ramen Takahashi: 5-10-10 Ginza, Chuo City, Tokyo.

Sheeta and Pazu from Laputa: Blue Skies

© Photo by iStock: miwa_in_oz

Sarushima, an island in Tokyo Bay, is a couple of short hours from central Tokyo but offers a whole day’s worth of adventure. Although it’s named for some legendary monkies, there aren’t any on the island to be wary of, nor are there any giant golems that might carry you off.

© Photo by iStock: Ryosei Watanabe

The island, a former military stronghold, has its strategic position to thank for the moss-covered war-time architecture that draws visitors year after year. On a foggy morning, you may just get lucky enough to see views of Sarushima that look just like the island from Castle in the Sky as you head over on the 10-minute ferry trip from shore.

© Photo by iStock: milorad kravic

On the same peninsula, Miura Paragliding School offers a chance to recapture the enchantment of Sheeta and Pazu’s airborne adventures. The activity is designed for newcomers and everything you need to paraglide safely is provided by the school.

• Price: Sarushima round trip ferry fare: ¥1,500 (Sarushima Park entry: ¥500). Miura Paragliding experience: ¥16,500 for 15 minutes.
• Address: Mikasa Pier for Sarushima Ferry: Ogawacho, Yokosuka, Kanagawa. Miura Paragliding School: Kamimiyada−1119, Minamishitauramachi, Miura, Kanagawa.

Shou and Arrietty from The Secret World of Arietty: Pretty Little Things

© Photo by Small Worlds Museum

Experience the worlds of the film from both Shou’s and Arrietty’s points of view. On one hand, you can view everything from a giant’s eye view and take some cool pictures at the Small Worlds Museum, located near the Ariake Garden complex. 

© Photo by Itochu Children’s Perspective Cafe

On the other, experience what it’s like to live a life where everything is over-sized! Designed to give adults insight into what life is like from the eyes of a child, the Itochu Children’s Perspective Cafe is offered with Japan’s sustainable development goals in mind, so participation as a couple is, well, a bit on the nose. But still a good bonding activity!

© Photo by Aoyama Flower Market Tea House

If you aren’t ready to think about kids yet, visit the much more relaxing and elegant Aoyama Flower Market Tea House. There are three locations around Tokyo, but all of them give diners the feeling of having been shrunk down and lovingly placed into a flower garden to enjoy a nice tea.

• Price: Small Worlds Museum entry: ¥2,700. Itochu Children’s Perspective Cafe entry: Free! Aoyama Flower Market Tea House entry: Free! (Menu items must be ordered to sit down.)
• Address: Small Worlds Museum: 1-3-33 Ariake, Koto City, Tokyo. Itochu Children’s Perspective Cafe: 2F Itochu Garden, 2-3-1, Kita-Aoyama, Minato City, Tokyo. Aoyama Flower Market Tea House (Akasaka): 1F Biz Tower, 5-3-1 Akasaka, Minato City, Tokyo.

Which Ghibli-inspired date do you want to take your loved one on? Let us know in the comments!

2023 saw a paradox of strides in politics despite the country’s sagging Gender Equality metrics and several public gaffs. Notably, Nikko’s G-7 conference, to empower women into leadership roles, became a shining example of Japan’s continuing missteps. Women’s empowerment in Japan still has a long way to go.

Women’s Empowerment in Japan: Victories

Women Achieved a One-Fifth Ratio of Political Candidacy in Spring Elections

Making up over 20% of candidates, women reached the highest-ever percentage of political candidacy in this year’s race. One in five managed to secure her election.

Young women in politics are being supported by crowdfunding and social media by a rising group called The Fiftys Project.

Currently, six of Tokyo’s wards are headed by females. Women in their 20s and 30s are taking up a larger share of political bodies than ever. Among these is the nation’s newly-elected youngest female mayor, Shoko Kawata, a 33-year-old former social worker in Kyoto. Young women in politics are being supported by crowdfunding and social media. A rising group called The Fiftys Project, secured 24 out of 29 seats for their sponsored candidates.

Five women are now in the cabinet after Kishida’s most recent shuffle, including a female in the foreign minister’s seat. Ayuko Kato is tasked with overseeing policies to combat the low birthrate and provide support to families—two of the administration’s key challenges. Hanako Jimi’s role support regional revitalization projects.

Strides in the Battle against Japan’s Low Birthrate: Starting with Parents

Kishida efforts to alleviate the growing pressure of a continually declining birthrate. The government handout system for expectant mothers is planned to be made permanent in 2025. The system offers coupons for services like babysitters. As well as cash supplements to help bring down hospital fees and baby-care supplies after delivery. In total, the benefits amount to approximately ¥100,000.

A proposed plan would offer 100% of wages to couples who take two weeks or more of parental leave. It would increase leave compensation from an effective 80% to 100% of potential earnings.

Young Women on the World Stage

Nadeshiko Japan made waves with international Women’s Soccer stardom. Shining praise from foreign news at the Women’s World Cup afforded Nadeshiko a quick rise to stardom at the New Zealand spectacle.

Cocona Hiraki, age 15, secured the top prize at the X Games Japan Women’s Skateboard Park. She is Japan’s youngest summer olympian ever during her participation in the 2020 Olympics. Four out of six medals went to Japanese women skaters during the Olympics.

Women’s Empowerment in Japan: Continuing Challenges

© Photo by iStock: Moor Studio

Voices Go Unheard, even as Women Clinch Political Wins

Satoko Kishimoto is the mayor of Suginami, elected by a mere 200-vote margin and often criticized for her apparent lack of qualifications. Kishimoto believes that her many years spent in Europe offer her a perspective with unique solutions, but constituents disagree. Kishimoto reports that meetings are often squandered on personal attacks and criticisms due to her gender.

During this year’s elections, a non-profit organization offering support to Japan’s women in politics received various reports of harassment. However, it is suspected that this number is significantly deflated. As public figures, women are encouraged to keep quiet about potentially scandal-causing incidents.

Kishimoto reports that meetings are often squandered on personal attacks and criticisms due to her gender.

In a twist of irony, Minister Masanobu Ogura, a male representative, was the only non-female participant in the G-7 summit in Nikko. This faux pas caught the public eye, receiving coverage and astonishment in both official publications and online forums.

Abysmal Equality Rankings

Japan’s world gender equality ranking tanked from 116 to an embarrassing 125 out of 146 nations, with an especially notable 138 out of 148 ranking for women in positions of power, political and economic. Despite making strides in achieving parity in health and education, pension and pay gaps, on top of a generally discouraging work culture, are at least partly to blame. Some sources hope that gender quotas and proactive recruitment will give organizations no choice but to create more equal spaces for women. However, these quotas lack teeth.

Trouble Among our Most Vulnerable

A recent report in the Japan Times cites an uptick in human rights violations against Japan’s female inmates, many of whom are incarcerated for non-violent offenses. Among these are an increasing number of women over 65 who are brought in for petty theft. They turn to small crimes in the absence of adequate support systems, elderly poverty and loneliness. 

Mum’s the Word: Unseen Struggles for Japan’s Mothers

Of particular note is the treatment of pregnancy in the prison system, with interviewees reporting being handcuffed during labor and immediate or near immediate separation of inmates from newborns.

Japan’s “mommy track” ensures women are routinely hired for non-career roles with limited hours and lower pay than traditional jobs, under the assumption they will eventually quit to pursue parenthood.

In other mom-related news, obstetrics care has been unfairly denied to several women who underwent in-vitro fertilization. The patients in question are single or sexual-minority women denied due to a lack of applicable legislation and sufficient documentation regarding the in-vitro process.

A ‘23 documentary also shined a light on the plight of single mothers in Japan, who struggle under a tax and working system originally designed to support married women in focusing on child-rearing duties.

Japan’s “mommy track” ensures women are routinely hired for non-career roles with limited hours and lower pay than traditional jobs, under the assumption they will eventually quit to pursue parenthood. Recent trends indicate this may be changing, however, as listed stock companies expand programs to promote internal recruitment of women for managerial and board positions.

Where Do We Go From Here?

© Photo by iStock: Timm Creative

Change starts with a social commitment, a willingness to be open-minded, and, above all, to try. As Japan slowly adopts more liberalized mindsets, we can look forward to broadening opportunities for the nation’s women across all spheres, social, political and beyond.

Actionable metrics in place are Kishida’s 30% parity plan and on-paper commitments from secondary and tertiary educational institutions to increase female presence. With only 10% of political roles currently taken up by women and even fewer in positions of corporate leadership, there is still a long way to go.

Let us know your thoughts on women’s empowerment in Japan in the comments below.

The inaugural Tokyo Food Summit, held over November 20-22, 2023, at Tokyo Big Sight, celebrated domestically sourced ingredients from each of Japan’s 47 prefectures. The event hosted stars from YouTube and TV and featured special interest areas around two main themes: sustainable consumption and Japanese tradition. We checked out a few panels and took our time tasting around the event to bring you some takeaways.

Savories: Ostrich, Wild Boar and Venison

© Photo by Sydney Seekford

Thanks partly to an effort to highlight alternative meat, savories got the spotlight! Michelin-starred Noeud. Tokyo came prepared for the chilly weather with an ostrich meat pot au feu and an effervescent shrub. According to Noeud., ostrich meat is an ideal, sustainable substitute for beef. The animals can be raised on very little feed due to their acclimation to arid savannah environments and require significantly less space to be safely farmed.

Ostrich offers a cost- and space-effective alternative to cows, but what about the taste? We found it pretty hard to swallow at first! However, the ostrich meatball was beefy without being fatty and the stewed cubes pulled apart just like a pot roast. With its rich red meat color, get a good bite and you might not notice a difference.

© Photo by Sydney Seekford

While Noeud. introduced agricultural innovation with its dish, Shutei Hokura and Elezo headed into the woods to cook up wild boar and venison dishes rooted in Japan’s ancient hunting tradition. A modern turn towards sustainability encourages revisiting these practices to curb the growing issue of wildlife encroaching on human settlements. Not only does hunting keep down populations, but it also provides healthy, free-range meat for hungry customers.

Studies: Minimizing Waste and Hokusai Cuisine Art

© Photo by Sydney Seekford

In addition to learning from the restaurateurs who came to treat us, we also got tips from panelists like Mari Yukinaga from Nippon Television’s 50-Yen Ryori. Yukinaga’s panel tied up with the sustainability theme by introducing ways to reduce food loss. Did you know that the average Japanese person throws away about an onigiri (rice ball) worth of food a day?  Moreover, the food waste ratio between businesses and individual households is almost evenly split!

So, how do we take steps to minimize this waste? Yukinaga focused on using food scraps in ways that render them both delicious and long-lasting. Her first recommendation is repurposing old sauces into long-simmered dishes like nikomi (stew) and soups. Applying heat and dilution extends the flavor of everything from ketchup to yakiniku (Japanese barbecue) sauce that’s past its prime. Yukinaga even introduced a way to turn slightly suspicious milk into a warming hot pot by combining it with two parts stock, ginger and lemon juice. These particular spices are antiseptic and give the soup a buttermilk tang.

© Photo by iStock: GI15702993

Her second method involved variations on pickling to repurpose vegetable scraps into tasty sides. Whether it’s persimmon skin with lemon juice and sugar, or carrot and daikon peel with salt and vinegar, these preserved scraps add flavor to salads or meat dishes.

We studied washoku (Japanese cuisine) through an interactive search-and-find exhibit featuring illustrations by Hokusai, the famed painter of The 36 Views of Mount Fuji. We found the first two easily: mochi being pounded for New Year’s and dripping summer somen (thin noodles). But the third drawing was far more elusive; it depicted a dish we had never heard of!

© Photo by Sydney Seekford

After a great deal of hunting and some hints from the staff, we found what appeared to be an illustration of a street vendor making crepes. In the Edo era, flour and water scraped flat and smeared with anko (sweet red bean) was a popular street snack called mojiyaki that eventually became modern monjayaki. We learned a lot!

Surprises: Whale Promotion and Unique Mixes

© Photo by Sydney Seekford

The Tokyo Food Summit provided plenty of surprises, too, including a promotion zone for Japan’s traditional whaling industry. As one might see in a butcher shop, posters showed off different cuts of whale for different cooking methods. Needless to say, we didn’t expect to see something as controversial as whale being promoted as a low-fat and high-protein meat for daily consumption! Like ostrich, whale has similarities to beef. The kujira-nigiri (whale sushi) from Tsukiji no Kujira (Formerly Kujirua no Tomisui) looked exactly like a slice of roast beef. Unlike ostrich, the fried whale nuggets had a gamey pungency that made our earlier deer and wild boar taste like chicken! Fans of game or distinctive flavor won’t be turned off by the funk, which reminded us of pet-nat wine and natto.

© Photo by Sydney Seekford

Other surprises were more understated, like the strikingly delicious salad at Restaurant Re: made with trout from Tochigi and micro cucumbers grown by the chef’s mother. Our favorite dish of the day was a still-warm mochi by Chaya Hanakanmuri. The sticky rounds had a perfect rice flavor and no sweetness at all. At first, we were a little skeptical about the chef’s recommendation of fried tofu and raw onion with bonito…but it was delicious—even served right next to a thick dollop of anko paste. For a dish we all expected would lean sweet, the light flavor of both toppings was a welcome respite from a buffet of meat dishes.

Experience Washoku Everyday

© Photo by Sydney Seekford

The first Tokyo Food Summit may have only lasted three days mid-week, but that doesn’t mean the event is over. A registered intangible cultural heritage, washoku can’t be contained in any convention hall. It’s on the streets of Tokyo, in every home and kitchen in the country, from store-bought sushi to gourmet teppan and station soba.

Support Tokyo’s food culture by visiting restaurants nearby and showing local business owners you care about traditional Japanese cooking. For a more immersive experience, like the ones we enjoyed at the Hokusai booth and specialty promotion spaces, visit the National Museum of Nature and Science in Ueno. A washoku exhibition is going on through February 25, 2024, so you have plenty of time to make the trip.