While it has never been unheard of to have female protagonists in anime and Japanese video games, more often than not, female characters were relegated to secondary or “damsel-in-distress” type roles or were hyper-sexualized, usually aimed at the male audience.

Nowadays, video game developers are more aware that the gaming landscape is more diverse. According to the ESA’s Power of Play report, nearly half of all gamers (48  percent) are women. However, the industry still has a long way to go with only about 20% of published games featuring protagonists from underrepresented groups, a number that will hopefully grow in the coming years.

So, let’s celebrate some of the best Japanese video games in recent memory that have the most resilient female characters.

1. Ghost of Yōtei

If you’re a gamer, there’s a good chance you saw Ghost of Yōtei making headlines last year when it revealed Atsu as the new protagonist instead of the original male lead, Jin Sakai. While some fans reacted negatively, demanding Jin’s return or simply denying the existence of women samurai, others praised the fresh perspective and strong storytelling.

The game didn’t actually officially launch until last month, in October 2025, but now that it’s out, you can finally play as Atsu. She’s a fierce, emotionally scarred bounty hunter roaming the 1603 wilderness near Mount Yōtei with her wolf companion. Atsu’s narrative is her own—she’s a fully realized, capable and compelling hero whose strength, intelligence and independence drive the game.

• Available on: PS5

2. Assassin’s Creed: Shadows

Assassin’s Creed: Shadows introduces Fujibayashi Naoe, a young female shinobi (ninja) assassin from the Iga Province navigating 16th-century Japan. Agile, clever and fiercely independent, Naoe uses stealth, parkour and combat to protect her home and people.

Sharing the spotlight with Yasuke, the powerful African samurai of historical legend, Naoe’s story is equally central and fully realized. Her motivations, moral choices and skills make her a standout lead, showing that a female character can carry an action-packed narrative with nuance and depth.

• Available on: PS5, Xbox Series X/S, PC, Steam

3. Atelier Yumia: The Alchemist of Memories & the Envisioned Land

Atelier Yumia centers on Yumia Liessfeldt, a young alchemist seeking to uncover the truth behind her mother’s death and the forbidden alchemy that led to it. Players explore a ruined continent, synthesize powerful items and grow Yumia’s skills while uncovering a profoundly personal story.

She is thoughtful, determined and capable, a modern JRPG heroine whose journey is as much about emotional growth as it is about exploration. Yumia proves that female protagonists can lead a story without falling into the sidekick or romanticized tropes so familiar in the genre.

• Available on: PS5, PC, Steam, Nintendo Switch, Xbox Series X/S, Xbox One

4. Bayonetta 3

Bayonetta 3, released in 2022, continues the series’ over-the-top, stylish action and it is as unapologetically fun as ever. You play as Bayonetta, a confident witch with a flair for the dramatic and also get to control Viola, a new, younger protagonist with lightning-fast combat moves and clever parries. Both women carry the story through chaotic battles against otherworldly enemies, flipping the typical hero dynamics.

• Available on: Nintendo Switch

5. Needy Streamer Overload

Needy Streamer Overload, a denpa (surreal/unsettling)-style visual novel, places you in the shoes of a female livestreamer attempting to grow her audience while managing her mental health, relationships and personal well-being. The gameplay combines decision-making, dark humor and genuine emotional stakes, portraying the pressure modern women face online in a compelling and relatable way. The protagonist is funny, flawed and determined.

• Available on: Steam, Nintendo Switch

6. Nier: Automata

What made Nier: Automata such an overwhelming success is its post-apocalyptic theme and the big philosophical questions it poses about the nature of consciousness, love, purpose and the soul. The game is set in a strange, post-apocalyptic Earth that was ruined in a war between humanity and an invasion of alien machines. You play as 2B and her male companion, 9S. 2B is a female android sent to Earth to continue the fight against the machines in order to clear a path for the human resistance.

2B is such a compelling protagonist because of her stoicism in the face of these questions. It is her male comrade, 9S, who shows greater signs of affection and intimacy. 2B places a greater focus on the mission. The dialogue between these two is gripping and subverts the alpha male and meek female character tropes.

• Available on: PS4 exclusive

7. Octopath Traveler

What is so refreshing about this game, in particular, is how it harks back to the Japanese role-playing games (JRPGs) of old, from the late 1980s and early 1990s, while also putting a modern twist on everything from combat mechanics to visuals. Octopath Traveler is a truly unique gameplay experience and one of the best in recent memory.

In terms of characters, it is immediately impressive that there is no one central protagonist. As the title suggests, there are eight equal protagonists with stories for you to explore and follow: four women and four men. Each one is a JRPG staple: warrior, mage, hunter, thief and so on. But it’s in the hunter where we see a real, capable female protagonist.

H’aanit is a woman hunter who speaks in a wonderful Shakespearean dialect. She is a standout character, arguably the strongest, toughest and bravest of the lot. A role that is almost always reserved for a man is instead given to a poetically spoken woman who will remind players of Princess Mononoke.

• Available on: Steam and Nintendo Switch

8. Dragon Quest XI

One of the finest and most beautiful JRPGs in modern memory is Dragon Quest XI. It is a simple game that includes the video game basics: a straightforward plot and combat system, a mute protagonist, and a mission to save the world. It follows many of the predictable JRPG beats, yet comes off as delightfully original due to the love and detail put into it. No less, into its female characters.

Within your party of heroes, you have two stand-out women: Veronica and Jade. Veronica has fallen under a curse that has trapped her in the body of a child. She’s a powerful black mage full of wisdom, wit, and a sharp tongue. She is perhaps the most enjoyable character in the entire game, carrying all the best story beats and delivering the most engaging dialogue.

Jade is an exiled princess and the fiercest fighter in the game. While the protagonist is a guy with a sword, Jade is a talented acrobatic warrior brandishing a spear. She’s feisty, tough and savvy. An inspirational princess to say the least, and a far cry from your typical Disney affair.

• Available on: PS4, Nintendo Switch, Nintendo 3DS

9. Metroid Prime

We need to talk about the underrated woman of gaming: Samus Aran. Samus is the woman inside the orange suit whom players take control of in the Metroid video games. She is a (usually) mute bounty hunter equipped with weapons and gear that make her the ultimate explorer, hunter, researcher and fighter.

Samus conveys a great deal through her actions, voiceless decisions and aesthetic, which gives her a much more distinct personality than her mute male counterparts, such as Zelda’s Link or Mario from Super Mario. Samus has a purpose, a stoic attitude and a cool head. She’s so well-defined without ever speaking, adding a much-needed spin to the way women are often represented in video games.

• Available on: Nintendo Switch

10. Persona 5

Persona 5 is a majorly successful Japanese role-playing game released in 2017, in which you play as a group of high-schoolers who have the ability to invade the ‘hearts’ of crooked people and rewrite their evil urges. Essentially, you are purifying them. The team, dubbed the “Phantom Thieves”, goes after corrupt officials, mob bosses, thieves, charlatans and so on, in the hope of making the world a better place. Though you predominantly control the mute male protagonist through the story (codenamed Joker), it’s the female protagonists in the party who steal the show.

The women are by far the most three-dimensional characters in Persona 5. Futaba, for instance, is a young agoraphobe who torments herself over the death of her mother, suffering from PTSD and acute anxiety. As the story progresses, we witness the steps she takes to heal her mind, which is truly compelling. Futaba is just one of the many women in Persona 5 who make this such a meaningful and enjoyable video game.

• Available on: PS3/PS4

The rise of these strong, complex female protagonists in Japanese video games shows just how far the industry has come—and how much further it can go.

Which female-led game is your favorite, or which character inspires you the most? Let us know in the comments.

This article has been updated for 2025.

Anime has come a long way in the past decade, with more and more shows featuring strong, compelling and well-rounded female protagonists. In the past few years, we’ve seen an increasing number of fantastic anime that center around major themes of loss, self-discovery, adventure and more. Each of these anime showcases beloved and inspirational female characters, and sometimes even an entire cast of complex and endearing female protagonists.

So, let’s take a look at the best anime with compelling female roles from the past few years. These shows are all available with subtitles or dubbed into English and just waiting to be binge-watched.

1. Golden Kamuy

Set in the aftermath of the Russo-Japanese war, Golden Kamuy follows a veteran on his search for a whispered-about Ainu gold. Early in his adventure, he meets Asirpa, a young Ainu huntress. This anime, and the manga from which it is adapted, not only gives its female character a leading role but also makes her smarter, craftier and more capable than her male veteran soldier counterpart. It also gives center stage to a young Ainu. Asirpa is a girl from Hokkaido’s native people, a group that has been marginalized for a hundred years.

It’s a series that proves why representation matters. It teaches viewers about a culture and history they might know nothing about. It broadens our perspectives on Japanese history and culture, especially that of Hokkaido’s indigenous Ainu people.

• Japanese title: ゴールデンカムイ (go-ruden kamui)
• Where to watch: Netflix

2. Laid-Back Camp

Some of the most charming anime in recent years has revolved around the friendships of young girls. Watching them grow, discover their own strengths and weaknesses and work as a team to become stronger together is an absolute delight. Laid Back Camp is one of the best examples. It follows the story of Rin, a girl who loves to camp in seclusion as she enjoys nature by herself. During one trip, she meets and helps the lost Nadeshiko, and the two become unlikely friends. At school, they join the Outdoor Activities Circle, where members work together to take trips out into the Japanese wilderness.

Where Laid Back Camp sets itself apart is in its depiction of personalities that are usually embodied by men. Especially Rin, the aloof loner who enjoys her own quiet company over that of others. It’s an anime that shows the deeper complexities of friendship between young girls as opposed to the tired trope of kawaii (cute) girls and their carefree games.

• Japanese title: ゆるキャン (yurukyan; “Laid Back Camp”)
• Where to watch: Netflix

3. A Place Further Than The Universe

It might be a little too bold to say this but I’ll say it anyway… A Place Further than the Universe is one of the best anime of the past decade. It tells the story of four high school girls who take a trip together from Tokyo to Antarctica. Each girl has her own distinct reason for making the trip. For example, Kimari is a curious girl who is desperate not to waste her youth any longer. Instead, she seeks something truly unique and difficult to accomplish. You’ll also meet Shirase, the daughter of an Antarctic explorer who tragically went missing.

The four girls are each so well-defined and endearing in their own ways, and their combined banter, teamwork, fights and communal growth make for some of the best TV. In just twelve episodes we adventure to the mysterious wastes of Antarctica with four determined and lovable high school girls. By the end of it, neither they nor we will be the same.

• Japanese title: 宇宙よりも遠い場所 (uchuuyorimo tooiibasho; “A Place Further Than The Universe”)
• Where to watch: Hulu and Amazon Prime

4. Beastars

While the Netflix series Beastars follows a male protagonist—a wolf named Legoshi—the show is a romance of sorts. The girl who has stolen Legoshi’s heart is a three-dimensional and captivating female character named Haru. Haru is a white dwarf rabbit in a world where she lives and studies alongside predators who have the strength to kill and eat her. She lives in a world where herbivore meat is sold to carnivores on the black market. Haru is vulnerable, always a hair’s breadth from death. She comes to realize that she feels a sense of true agency, even dominance, in the bedroom. And so, Haru develops a reputation for being easy. Few anime ever give real dimension to female characters who enjoy sex and promiscuity.

It’s a refreshing and modern perspective, and it gives Haru some real dimension as she attempts to take control of her life as a herbivore in a way that she has chosen on her own. It’s a sex-positive show that focuses on the free choices of a young female character.

• Japanese title: ビースターズ (bi-suta-zu)
• Where to watch: Netflix

5. Fruits Basket (Remake)

The original Fruits Basket anime from the early 00s is a fan favorite and a treasure to the anime community. Unfortunately, that anime was never finished. The manga, however, was finished, and fortunately followed by a new anime adaptation worthy of its source material.

The anime follows the tragic-turned-magical story of Toru Honda, a high school girl who lost her mother and is now living alone in a tent in the woods, while still managing to keep her life somewhat together. One day, she stumbles upon the home of one of her classmates: a house in the woods populated by the actual animals of the Chinese Zodiac, disguised as human boys and men. Toru goes to live, forms friendships with and learns from all of these quirky and strange individuals.

A character like Toru would usually be nothing more than a pair of eyes through which we see this strange world, but given her tragic backstory and optimistic personality, she’s quite the lovable character. Her closest friends, Arisa Uotani, a former gang member, and Saki Hanajima, a so-called psychic, respectively, are also both well-developed female forces to be reckoned with.

• Japanese title: フルーツバスケット (furuutsu basuketto)
• Where to watch: Hulu and Amazon Prime

6. Zombie Land Saga

J-Pop culture can be a toxic industry, especially for its women stars. It’s a dangerous game to play in many ways, and the creators of Zombie Land Saga know this. The show plays off the nastiness of the J-Pop industry with some clever satire and dark humor but is also a rollicking good time in its own right. The plot follows a group of girls who each, at the start of the show, die and wake up some years later as zombies, recruited by a shrewd manager looking to turn them into the next big idol group. The girls agree and begin their careers as a zombie J-Pop idol group.

From the beginning, the zombie girls have no memories of their former lives, and thus, they have no family or loved ones that they know of. The show heavily hammers home the idea that idols are essentially robots carrying out a function. If they had loved ones, memories or dreams outside of being idols, it just wouldn’t work. But the reality is that they’re not robots—they are human girls—and we see later in the season this robotic fulfillment begins to fall apart.

A lot of the comedy comes from the slapstick you’d expect from a group of zombies: heads turning completely around and limbs detaching. But far more than that, Zombie Land Saga is a grizzly commentary on how idol girls are treated in Japan by their fans, their managers and the demanding industry itself.

• Japanese title: ゾンビランドサガ (zonbi ranndo saga)
• Where to watch: Hulu and Amazon Prime

7. Deca-Dence

This original anime from Studio Nut is a post-apocalyptic sci-fi adventure full of intense and thrilling twists and turns. The glue that holds this insane series together is protagonist Natsume, a young girl with a prosthetic arm and a lot of trauma.

However, Natsume is not defined by her injury or her history. She looks to the future and demonstrates her skills and savviness, though the show does give into that trope of her learning under a wise older man. Aside from that, Natsume is another welcome addition to the tough, smart, capable female protagonist. Not defined by her gender, she has a clear goal in mind, which is to change herself. Natsume wants to grow and become better. It’s a noble and relatable goal that carries her as a protagonist.

• Japanese title: デカダンス (dekadansu)
• Where to watch: Amazon Prime

8. Revue Starlight

Stories of brotherly bonds and competitive duels can often be relegated to male-only affairs. However, Revue Starlight applies those themes to a pair of talented young women at an all-girls school of singers, dancers and performers. When Karen’s childhood friend, Hikari, transfers to her school, Seisho Music Academy, her dream of performing in the musical Starlight escalates as the girls discover an elevator to a basement where girls duel for the top performer spot.

The contest is directed by a talking giraffe (because anime), but the contest itself is a gorgeous spectacle of beautiful animation. The story is overloaded with heart and charm as these two girls must do their best to remain sisterly friends, but also follow their dreams as far as they will take them.

• Japanese title: 少女☆歌劇 レヴュースタァライト (shojo kageki revu-sutaaraito; “Girl Opera Revue Starlight”)
• Where to watch: Amazon Prime

9. Violet Evergarden

What do you do when your purpose in life is taken away from you? And the only person who mattered is gone? That’s the question posed in Violet Evergarden, an anime about a young woman who was raised as a tool for warfare but was taught humanity, empathy and love by a man who was lost before the war came to an end. Without a war to fight and a major to guide her, Violet is like a lost child. After her arms, also lost in battle, are replaced by mechanical ones, she finds a job at the postal service writing letters to patrons’ loved ones. Her one purpose is now to understand love—the concept and the feeling—as the major had attempted to instill in her.

Violet Evergarden, aside from perhaps being the most beautifully drawn anime ever produced, presents us with a woman who has been shown the world as crafted by men. Men go to war, men teach her to read and write, and men show her love. But now, as peace settles, Violet must make a life of her own; she must seek purpose, love and understanding on her own terms. It’s a subtle treatise on the autonomy of women in a world governed by men, all the while being a character-driven story about navigating an ever-changing and often frightening world.

• Japanese title: ヴァイオレット・エヴァーガーデン (vaioletto eba-ga-den)
• Where to watch: Netflix

10. Made in Abyss

On an island, there exists a gaping mouth that leads down into the depths of the earth. For almost 2,000 years, explorers have been venturing down in search of treasure and understanding. A city has even grown at the edge of this abyss. Rico has only one goal: to become a white whistle, the best and toughest of the cave raiders, following in the footsteps of her brave mother. Not only is the protagonist of Made in Abyss a young girl, but she is also inspired by the actions of her mother.

Despite the fact that Made in Abyss goes to some frightening and shocking places that make it borderline unsuitable for kids, the show is perfect viewing material for young girls looking for a role model their own age. Riko is book-smart, savvy and hungry for knowledge and adventure. She takes risks, cracks jokes and aspires to her goal. There is a lot to love and learn from when it comes to Rico and the adventure she undertakes. She is one of the most inspiring and admirable anime protagonists in a long time.

• Japanese title: メイドインアビス (meido in abisu)
• Where to watch: Netflix

Which of these anime do you like best, and who are your favorite female characters?

Looking for some inspirational books to get you in the mood to embrace everything the new year has coming? 2020 is finally behind us and we can make new resolutions for the brand new 2021 in front of us. Resolutions are made to be broken but practicing some new habits and enjoying some fresh perspectives on life can get you going on the right note. Here are some Japanese books, from philosophy to fiction, to get you in the right frame of mind to begin the new year or anything else you’d like to start anew in 2021.

1. Ikigai by Yukari Mitsuhashi 

If you’re looking to practice mindfulness this new year then this short and inspirational book is perfect for you. Mitsuhashi looks at the ancient-old Japanese concept of ikigai which can help bring focus to your life: “Ikigai is not something you practice but something you find.”

Raised in Tokyo, Mitsuhashi brings the reader case studies and practical advice to help learn some of the secrets to a happy life by focusing on things that bring you joy, learning to appreciate them, and practicing altruistic behaviors. This is an easy way to start the year on a positive note and work on some new habits. The concept has also been popularised in the West with the book Ikigai: A Secret for a Long and Happy Life by Héctor García which provides you with a great next option if you want to learn more about Ikigai after Mitsuhashi’s fantastic introduction. 

2. The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up by Marie Kondo

Born in Tokyo, Marie Kondo has become an international success in the art of tidying and perfecting the art of designer organization. Using her own “KonMari” methods, largely inspired by Japanese philosophies, she encourages the reader to declutter through joy. By only keeping the things that bring you happiness, and blessing and sending away the things that you don’t need anymore. You can enjoy an organized minimalist space by starting small—room by room—one category at a time, until your house resembles an Instagram lifestyle page. For those who aren’t ready to declutter (admittedly, as a major hoarder, I struggle with it all), Marie also teaches the Japanese art of furoshiki (gift wrapping) and provides tips for improving your productivity. You’ll find all the tools to start the new year with a fresh perspective and a beautiful living space.

3. What I Talk About When I Talk About Running by Haruki Murakami

Losing weight or taking up some form of exercise is a classic new year’s resolution that many of us will be familiar with breaking. Murakami took up marathon running when he was 33 and here, in this memoir, he discusses his motivations. Marrying athleticism and intellectual pursuit, we follow the renowned writer as he trains for the New York Marathon, providing wisdom, advice on running, and plenty of writing tips along the way. It also looks at his changed perspective on life since taking up the hobby, how his running has a positive effect on his writing, and how a healthy body can contribute to an active mind. Perfect if you’re looking for that push to get moving after the festive indulgences.

Book translated by Philip Gabriel

4. The Traveling Cat Chronicles by Hiro Arikawa

A few years ago, the catchphrase of the day was YOLO (You only live once). As we move into the new year, a read of The Travelling Cat Chronicles, which was also made into a movie last year, will have this word back on your lips as you consider how best to seize 2021 and make it yours.

A story concerning a road trip across Japan from the point-of-view of a witty cat called Nana might not, at first, sound like the makings of an inspirational message like “seize the day,” but its story is one of those that is very easy to spoil. So, let’s simply say that this is a story that will move you to tears, fill you with enthusiasm for the year ahead, and perhaps give you that push to plan the ultimate Japanese road trip.

Book translated by Philip Gabriel

5. The Last Children of Tokyo by Yoko Tawada

If you’re looking to become more environmentally-minded this year, or looking for something to motivate you to become so, this is it. Tawada provides us with a glimpse into the very near future with her latest Black Mirror-esque award-winning novel.

In recent years, Japan has become known globally for its aging population: a generation living longer than that of any other nation; and this issue, coupled with the very real fears of pollution and isolation from the rest of the world, makes this one of the greatest dystopian novels of recent years. Far from being depressing, Tawada gently reminds us of the things we should be thankful for and the ways we can preserve our current lifestyle in healthier ways.

Book translated by Margaret Mitsutani

Know the perfect Japanese books for 2021? Let us know in the comments below.

We continue to celebrate the straight, male-focused narratives of beloved authors like Yasunari Kawabata and Natsume Soseki. And Japan’s most successful contemporary novelist—Haruki Murakami—continues to write predominantly straight male protagonists who often engage in detailed but ordinary sexual and romantic scenes. However, it’s the Japanese women writers who fight back against these narratives with unconventional lesbian romances, asexual marriages, and stories of single mothers.

it’s the Japanese women writers who fight back against these narratives with unconventional lesbian romances, asexual marriages, and stories of single mothers

In the ‘80s and ‘90s, authors like Natsuo Kirino and Banana Yoshimoto wrote stories that challenged convention and reflected the progressive age in which their authors were living.

In Kitchen, Yoshimoto offered the center stage to a trans woman. While the novel was predominantly about a straight romance between two young people chased into each other’s arms by death itself, our young man’s mother is a trans woman who offers a little more color and variety to an otherwise ordinary tale of young love.

At a similar time, Natsuo Kirino wrote Out, an aggressively feminist story about four women working the graveyard shift at a factory. When one of these women breaks under the pressure caused by her husband’s cheating and gambling away their savings, she murders him at home and seeks the help of her colleagues to cover up the deed. Out is a warning to the patriarchal standard of our time: when enough is enough, you should be frightened.

Out is a warning to the patriarchal standard of our time: when enough is enough, you should be frightened

Following in the footsteps of these great women writers, the Japanese authors of the 21st century have been offering us engaging, challenging stories that bring visibility to unconventional yet real and true narratives, including romances. Three of these authors are Sayaka Murata, Mieko Kawakami, and Aoko Matsuda.

These are five stories by three wonderful women who explore unusual or atypical relationships in some way. Every protagonist is a woman who approaches romance, sex, and marriage in a unique way, demonstrating the different ways of living and loving.

Convenience Store Woman by Sayaka Murata

Keiko is happy with her lot in life, both professionally and romantically. Though her family insists she should strive for more, she is happily single and doesn’t understand why she should have to change.

Convenience Store Woman was translated into English by Ginny Tapley Takemori and, when it was published by Granta in 2018, it took over the literary world for a while. An unassuming short novel about a woman who has worked in a convenience store from the age of 18 to 36 and beyond left readers shaken. But why? 

Convenience Store Woman paints a simple but vivid picture: a young woman who doesn’t need a man in order to be happy. In fact, she doesn’t need money or success either. She is happy with how she lives and works. She is comfortable, secure, and comforted by the familiar tick-tocking of life in the convenience store.

As her family asks for more, and an aggressive young man forces his thoughts and opinions on her, Keiko shrugs it all off and goes on as she is. Keiko represents the self-assured, self-satisfied modern woman: one who refuses to prove herself to anyone else and merely exists in a way that makes her comfortable and happy. Nothing more or less.

In an interview with The Japan Times, Murata herself said: “Some people feel similar to Keiko,” says Murata. “A lot of my readers have said they are losing the feeling of what is ‘normal’ in society.” 

This sets a strong precedent: that Keiko is not so unconventional. She represents real people; however small their group may be, they exist. And representation, as we all know, is important. In that same interview, Murata claims that “Japanese readers laugh, and men have said they feel like the ending is scary.” Only proving that the patriarchy is a shaky and easily threatened thing.

A Clean Marriage (short story) by Sayaka Murata

The protagonists of A Clean Marriage met via a matchmaking site, in which the husband had advertised himself by saying: ‘I’m seeking an amicable daily routine with someone I get along well with, like brother and sister, without being a slave to sex.’ From here, the two enter into an asexual marriage. When they decide they want to have a child, they search for help and soon find a clinic that offers artificial insemination by way of something called a Clean Breeder.

The story, also translated by Ginny Tapley Takemori, explores sexual desire, marital affairs, and the non-traditional means by which a person or couple may choose to have and raise a child. In A Clean Marriage, the arrangement between our couple is sexless but they both still enjoy sex for the sake of gratification outside of the home and with other people.

A Clean Marriage presents a unique but not important marital circumstance. While the short story has a few quiet sci-fi elements, it is still entirely grounded and ordinary when considering the themes of sex, love, and marriage. This is not an ordinary marriage but these are still ordinary people living their ordinary lives. They are not doing things in the way that society expects and suggests, but they are happy with their choices and their lot.

This is what Murata has offered through both A Clean Marriage and Convenience Store Women: people who behave differently from the norm and yet are doing nothing bad or wrong. They are living their way, living such a quiet rebellion that, by any definition of the word, should not be rebellious at all.

In the same Japan Times interview, Murata remarks: “Personally, I think that sexless couples are kind of nice, and that there is real love. Of course, there are a lot of married couples that keep their romance. But it doesn’t have to be this way. I think that life without sex is also nice.”

Earthlings by Sayaka Murata

While Convenience Store Woman laid the groundwork for unconventional people quietly leading unconventional lives, Earthlings then came in like a wrecking ball. The novel, once again translated by Ginny Tapley Takemori, follows the story of Natsuki, who begins the novel as an angry child who sees the world as a factory that churns out people who churn out people.

As a child, Natsuki forms a close friendship, and then a brief romance, with her cousin Yuu, who believes himself to be an alien. The two agree that the world is a factory and they don’t belong in it. When Natsuko is all grown up, she enters into an asexual marriage with a man who enjoys conspiracy theories. Their relationship is reminiscent of that we see in A Clean Marriage. In fact, many of the book’s themes tread similar ground but Earthlings peppers in many other traumatic events, all focused around sexual acts.

Earthlings is an intentionally shocking book that reframes sex as a frightening thing—not from any religious or political perspective but, instead, a very personal one. It offers us a different lens through which to view sexual dominance and the choices we make surrounding sex and maturation. Once again, Murata is playing with conventional themes and asks us to see love, sex, and marriage through an unconventional lens. A lens that is very necessary in a world of sexual assault and abuse.

Breasts and Eggs by Mieko Kawakami

One of the biggest books of 2020, Breasts and Eggs (translated by Sam Bett and David Boyd) offers two stories in one book, both narrated by Natsuko, a young woman living in Tokyo as a writer.

In Book One, Natsuko is a passive narrator who hosts her sister who is visiting from Osaka. Her sister is in town to shop around for breast implants and has brought her daughter along. The latest has grown increasingly furious at the world as she learns more about the role of the woman—both socially and biologically. In Book Two, it’s Natsuko who takes center stage as she finds success as an author, finds peace and comfort in her single life, and now searches for a way to become a single mother.

Breasts and Eggs is a pair of stories that break down the role of the woman in modern society. It takes three women and uses them to examine and pull apart the gender rules and roles of today. There is anger and disgust from the perspective of Natsuko’s niece; submission and obsession through the actions of Natsuko’s sister, and quiet but confident rebellion via Natsuko’s own choices. The books also offer an emphasis on friendships and family bonds over romance and love. This is not a book about romance, love, sex, and marriage. It’s a book about women making choices for themselves and by themselves.

In an interview with The Guardian, Kawakami explains: “It’s just assumed that mothers will accept the burden. We’ll look after the children, teach them, prepare the bento and do all that extra work—even though many of us have jobs too.” She goes on to say that “men won’t give up their privileges easily. They’re brainwashed: be strong, don’t cry. But everyone gets old and understands what it is to be weak. We’re at the point where all that old stuff must be questioned.”

Hina-chan (short story in Where the Wild Ladies Are) by Aoko Matsuda

Where the Wild Ladies Are, translated by Polly Barton, is a collection of modern feminist ghost stories, each one inspired by rakugo tales and kabuki plays from Japanese history. In the book, Matsuda has respun these folk tales into modern stories threaded with feminist themes and morals.

In the story Hina-chan, a young woman fishes a skeleton out of the river. Soon enough, she is visited by the ghost which is tethered to the skeleton. From here, the two enter into an unusual and intimate queer relationship that crosses the border between life and death. While this story does not challenge the conventional behavior of marriage as such, it is a queer romance as well as a romance that does not involve living, breathing humans. It makes the argument that love can take any shape or form and transcend any boundary, provided it is permitted.

Good travel writing can transport us to places we may never see, revisit a beloved area, or even put a new destination firmly on our radar. We can learn about a country from the perspective of new eyes, not unlike our own, or experienced locals that can take us deeper culturally than we ever could into these new places.

Good travel writing can transport us to places we may never see

Enjoying new destinations from the comfort of our homes is the easiest way to broaden our horizons and enjoy a good story at the same time. Here are some of the best travel books about Japan, written in English, to inspire our own adventures. Do you have children in need of a new read? Try our English books for kids’ selection instead!

1. The Only Gaijin in the Village

If you’re looking for a lighthearted read that’s guaranteed to make you laugh while also highlighting some interesting facts and quirks about life in rural Japan then you will love this book! Perfect for fans of Bill Bryson, Scottish writer Iain Maloney and his Japanese wife Minori move from Tokyo to the Japanese countryside and introduce us to the colorful characters they meet along the way.

Much of the book is dedicated to Iain’s early life in Japan and will resonate with anyone who’s moved countries and had to navigate a brand new life abroad. Those who have lived abroad long term will also relate to the challenges of being accepted and that age-old question ‘so, when are you going home’. This book is guaranteed to make you laugh, but it’s emotional moments hit hard and by the end, you’ll feel like you’ve made a friend.

2. Hokkaido Highway Blues

Another frank and witty entry, Hokkaido Highway Blues takes away from the big cities as we journey from the south to the north of Japan with the author who’s chasing the cherry blossom by hitchhiking. The concept of hitchhiking isn’t a particularly popular one in Japan which only adds to the hilarious encounters he has with people along the way as we traverse the small villages and towns that we rarely get to see in Japan travel writing.

While the author doesn’t hold back with his opinions of both Japan which, at times, can seem ungrateful considering the hospitality he’s being shown, it’s still a great piece of travel writing about Japan and is guaranteed to take you on a journey while teaching you some local history.

3. The Meaning of Rice: A Culinary Tour of Japan

The author of Sushi and Beyond takes us on another culinary adventure around Japan exploring what’s changed in the ten years since his previous book. He explores weighty topics in a lighthearted way and really gets across how Japanese food has conquered the Western world in a decade. As always with good travel writing, it’s the people the writer meets on his journey that provides the intrigue and this is no exception—tales from a rice farmer in Fukushima, ramen chefs, and factory workers give valuable insight into the culinary landscape of Japan.

Booth takes us on a journey right through the country leaving our belies rumbling in his wake. While the author does have a rather purist view of Japanese cuisine especially when it comes to breakfast habits and the general prevalence of convenience food in everyday life, this is still a valuable and witty exploration of Japanese food from a travel perspective.

4. The Bells of Old Tokyo: Travels in Japanese Time

One of the most unique books on this list and one that’ll make you see Tokyo in a new light no matter how much time you’ve spent there. Sherman takes us on a journey through Tokyo’s history from the Shogun era to the 2011 earthquake and those many great changes that have shaped the city.

She writes vibrantly and with love, while seamlessly weaving in her own experience as a foreigner in the city making friends and learning Japanese. Tokyo very much feels alive in this book and the stories from patrons such as her friend Daibo, a coffee shop owner, give us a real insight into the culture of Tokyo. The writer takes us around parts of the city we might pass every day and never see the deeper history and significance all with exquisite writing and respect for what’s around her.

Whether you’ve never visited Tokyo or spent a lot of time there, this is truly a book for everyone.

5. Lost Japan

As the name might suggest, this is a book that laments some of what’s been lost in Japan due to mass development and commercialism. There’s a real appreciation for the natural beauty of Japan in this book as well as its cultural traditions.

Written from his rural Iya Valley home, Alex Kerr takes us through years of Japanese art from kabuki to tea ceremonies and the rise of contemporary cultural aspects like pachinko. Much of the beauty in the book comes in the descriptions of his house Chiiori which you can actually stay in, it’s a restoration and celebration of everything traditionally beautiful in Japan.

Lyrically written and frank in its approach to modern Japan, this book will leave you with much to think about.

6. The Roads to Sata: A 2000 Mile Walk Through Japan

This wonderful piece of travel writing, that was originally written in the seventies, is being re-released this year so we can follow Alan Booth from the north to the south of Japan once again. Well written, humourous, and classy, Booth never makes sweeping generalizations about Japan or the people he meets and instead lets the reader judge the situations for themselves.

As readers, it’s amazing to see how much Japan has changed in thirty years but also see that many of the problems he faces and the joys he experiences are still very much present in Japan today. Full of personal anecdotes and quirky characters that stay with you thanks to Booth’s ability to get people to open up, this is travel writing as its finest.

7. Tokyo on Foot

Something a little different: this is a charming memoir of an artist who spent six months in Tokyo and is a hand-drawn colorful masterpiece. Florent Chavouet walked around Tokyo and drew the small neighborhoods and small corners that many of us never visit and brings them to life in a way we’ve never seen.

Once again the people in this memoir are just as important as the places and their stories are beautifully illustrated and told here. Each of his drawings features comments and tags from Chavouet which adds layers to the art and gives us a complete account of his time in Tokyo. This is the kind of book that you’ll revisit again and again simply to indulge in this dreamy pastel Tokyo.

A little slice of traditional Japan within Tokyo, if you want to get lost in some history and explore the old shopping streets or famous temples and shrines in the city, then a day in Asakusa is exactly what you need.

It’s a place where culture meets contemporary. From rickshaws going by to people dressed up in traditional costume to modern art statues that make you look twice, a wealth of photo opportunities open up to you in Asakusa.

What’s more, it’s a street food hub and it hosts some of the most tempting shops in the city if you love Japanese arts and crafts.

The best way to explore Asakusa? On foot, getting lost, wandering down side streets, and dipping into pockets of tradition and culture.

History and Background

“Kaminarimon” Thunder Gate at the entrance to Senso-ji Temple.

Asakusa’s cultural history has remained intact and the area is still a shining example of Tokyo’s rich history.

The story of Asakusa begins with Senso-ji Temple, built in the 7th century. Today, this enormous and impressive Buddhist temple is still the main draw to Asakusa for both locals and tourists.

However, during the Edo period, in the shadow of Senso-ji’s holy Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate), the area grew as an entertainment district and was soon enough filled with theatres, geisha houses and all the debauchery that went with it.

Asakusa’s cultural history has remained intact and the area is still a shining example of Tokyo’s rich history.

A traditional “senbei” (rice cracker store) in Asakusa.

Unfortunately, Asakusa was severely damaged by US air raids during World War II and, as a result, the entertainment of Tokyo shifted to areas like Harajuku and Shinjuku. Today, it’s the local restaurants, parks, shrines, and the central Senso-ji Temple that provide the bulk of the entertainment.

Things To Do

Senso-ji Temple

Smoke from incense rising in front of the main hall.

Senso-ji is not only the crown jewel of Asakusa but also one of the must-see tourist things to do in all of Tokyo. Senso-ji represents the vital and vibrant Buddhist history of Japan and it is also the largest temple in all of the city.

Originally built atop a hill in Asakusa in 645 CE, Senso-ji is an enormous and beautiful red Buddhist temple that features a tall pagoda, enormous gates at its entrance, and a market full of delightful traditional Japanese trinkets and souvenirs surrounding the temple.

Address: 2 Chome-3-1 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0032, Japan — Map

Tokyo Skytree

Tokyo Skytree in the near distance. The Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center is on the right.

The tallest structure in all of Japan can be found just across the river from Senso-ji. This juxtaposition of the modern and the ancient truly encapsulates Japanese society today. Tokyo Skytree is a broadcast tower but it also serves as the most popular viewing platform in the city. From atop Skytree, visitors can get a panoramic view of Tokyo as the city spreads far into the distance. The view truly demonstrates the dizzying size of one of the biggest cities in the world.

Address: 1 Chome-1-2 Oshiage, Sumida City, Tokyo 131-0045, Japan —Map

Asahi Beer Hall

Definitely looks like a poop.

One of the most iconic and recognizable buildings in Tokyo is also the headquarters of one of its biggest brands: Asahi Beer. What’s really iconic about it is the enormous and slightly strange golden sculpture that sits atop the beer hall. Officially known as the Asahi Flame, but affectionately dubbed the “Golden Poop,” this eye-catching sculpture represents the head on a cool glass of beer.

Address: Asahi Beer Hall: 1 Chome-23-1 Azumabashi, Sumida City, Tokyo 130-0001, Japan —Map

Hanayashiki Amusement Park

The retro entrance to Hanayashiki Amusement Park.

Owned by Bandai Namco and in operation since way back in 1853, Hanayashiki is the oldest amusement park in Japan and it is found near to Senso-ji Temple. The park features lots of traditional dining experiences as well as shops that sell ninja-related items. It even offers a 45-minute ninja training class. Hanayashiki is famous for its panda cars, which can be driven around the park by anyone.

Address: 2 Chome-28-1 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0032, Japan —Map

Asakusa Shrine

Participants at the Sanja Matsuri carry the “mikoshi” (portable shrine) through the streets of Asakusa in what’s considered Tokyo’s wildest festival.

Asakusa Shrine is connected to Senso-ji in a curious way. It is a Shinto shrine dedicated to the three men who founded Senso-ji, even though that temple is now Buddhist. A large stone torii functions as the gateway into the shrine and, though it’s small, it’s is one of the most cherished and famous in all of Tokyo. Also known as Sanja Sama, it’s one of the focal points of the raucous Sanja Matsuri, celebrating the three founders of Senso-ji and considered one of the three greatest Shinto festivals of Japan.

Address: 2 Chome-3-1 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0032, Japan —Map

Sumida Park

Sumida Park during spring.

Sumida Park is famous as a place to enjoy sakura (cherry blossom) in Tokyo in the springtime. It’s also a place at the edge of the Sumida River where you can enjoy a river cruise. In the summer, there’s the Sumidagawa Firework Festival. Stretching along the riverbank, this is a fantastic park to stroll through all year round.

Address: 1 Chome-2-5 Mukojima, Sumida City, Tokyo 131-0033, Japan —Map

Where to Shop

Nakamise Shopping Street

Nakamise shopping street leading to Senso-ji at night.

Nakamise is a bustling and vibrant shopping street that reaches from the main gate of Senso-ji Temple to its main hall. Lining the street are stalls selling all sorts of souvenirs, traditional Japanese foods, snacks, teas, household items, and clothing such as kimonos and obi. It’s the best street to visit for tourists wanting to pick up traditional Japanese souvenirs.

Address: 1 Chome-20 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0032, Japan —Map

Nishi Sando Shopping Street

The entrance to Nishi Sando shopping street.

Located a short walk from Senso-ji and inside a beautiful traditional building is Tokyo’s most unique shopping arcade. Nishi Sando is lined with cypress flooring, providing a homely vibe, and its shops sell valuable Japanese antiques, hand-crafted traditional swords, and even weapons. There is also a divine ramen restaurant inside.

Address: 2 Chome-7-13 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0032, Japan —Map

Ekimise

Ekimise shopping mall.

While Nakamise and Nishi Sando are very traditional, Ekimise is a modern shopping mall that focuses on craft shops and high fashion. Atop the shopping mall is a beer garden roof terrace that offers seasonal beers. You’ll also find electronics, cosmetics, a bookshop—pretty much everything you’d expect from a big shopping mall.

Address: 1 Chome-4-1 Hanakawado, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0033, Japan —Map

Isetatsu

 

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Established in 1864 and still managed by its founding family, this small craft store in Yanaka is the epitome of a local family business. At Isetatsu you’ll find chiyogami decorative paper, highly valued washi paper used for arts and crafts in Japan. The family who has owned the shop for five generations boasts an incredible history stretching back to the Edo period.

Address: 2 Chome-18-9 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0042, Japan —Map

Tenugui Fujiya

 

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This Asakusa shop sells gorgeous handkerchiefs and other items in various vibrant colors which change with the seasons, giving you a reason to go back and pick up more! These finely crafted and original pieces make for a unique and special gift.

Address: 2 Chome-2-15 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0032, Japan —Map

Where to Eat

Nakamise Shopping Street

Making “taiyaki” along Nakamise street.

While already mentioned on the list of where to shop in Asakusa, Nakamise also has a ton of street foods to try. Here, you’ll find snacks like taiyaki (fish-shaped sweet pastries), takoyaki (ball-shaped dumplings with octopus inside), yakitori (meat skewers) and various flavors of mochi (sticky rice cakes). Stroll around the stalls and window shop while munching on a few of these delights.

Shokudo Unsuke

 

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This is an utterly delightful little Japanese curry restaurant in the heart of Asakusa. With bookcases, wall art, and a lot of wooden furniture, it has a homely and welcoming vibe that’s reinforced by how intimate and quiet it is. Shokudo Unsuke is a fantastic little spot to enjoy one of the best meals in Tokyo.

Address: 4 Chome-17-3 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0032, Japan —Map

Onigiri Yadoroku

 

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This is the oldest onigiri (rice ball) specialist restaurant in all of Tokyo, and it’s found right behind Senso-ji Temple. This onigiri shop has been selling onigiri since 1954 and makes all of its onigiris with locally sourced seaweed. There are a few seasonal fillings and ingredients are sourced from across Japan.

Address: 3 Chome-9-10 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0032, Japan —Map

Vegan Store

 

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This very new convenience store is a godsend for vegans in Japan. Plus, it also supplies some gluten-free options too. Being a vegan in Japan can be surprisingly complex and stressful, so having a simple convenience store like this one is a real dream come true.

Address: 2 Chome-25-9 Nishiasakusa, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0035, Japan —Map

Suzukien

 

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Reportedly the “richest matcha gelato in the world,” Suzukien is famous for their matcha gelato, which is available in a massive range of seven different intensity levels, meaning that anyone from a matcha fanatic to someone who has never tried it before can all still enjoy their gelato exactly how they want it.

Address: 3 Chome-4-3 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0032, Japan —Map

Café Tsumuguri

 

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This is a calm teahouse-style cafe that’s quite hidden away and, as such, is a great choice of cafe for visitors to escape the often intense hustle and bustle of exploring Asakusa. This cafe even offers fruit sandwiches, which are a local favorite often seen on shelves at convenience stores.

Address: 5 Chome-26-8 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0032, Japan —Map

Getting There

A female rickshaw driver pulling tourists around Asakusa. Now that’s what you call a workout.

You can reach Asakusa on the Yamanote line from stations like Tokyo Station, Shinjuku or Shibuya Station by transferring at Kanda station to the Ginza Subway Line. The Toei Asakusa Line is the other subway line that stops here.

Overground train lines that stop at Asakusa are the Tobu Skytree Line and the Tsukuba Express.

It’s getting to that time of year again — the days are getting shorter, the weather is growing colder, and the urge to dive under the kotatsu is becoming stronger. And nothing pairs an escape into a cozy heated table than a warm cup of rooibos tea and a good read. But which books are the ones that will warm your heart enough for your mind to escape the cold?  We love these eight Japanese books filled with wholesome and heartwarming themes featuring adventurous journeys and snowy scenes to get lost in and you won’t need to brave the cold at all.

1. The Guest Cat by Takashi Hiraide

A charming story set in a sleepy Tokyo suburb. A married couple in their thirties has long lost that spark in their marriage — until a stray cat finds its way into their home and breathes new life into the family dynamic. The unexpected feline creates a routine for them, gives them a shared topic to talk about as a couple, and brings joy and a united focus to their life. A lovely tale that displays the immense impact of having something two people care for together, a story that’ll stay in your heart long after the last page.

Translated by: Eric Selland

2. Snow Country by Yasunari Kawabata

Get lost in snowy Japan — Shimamura, a married man from Tokyo who is tired of the city takes a train to a remote village where the geisha Komako works at a mountain resort. After meeting her on a previous trip to the resort, he believes that she is the love of his life and travels back to the mountains to be with her. A beautiful love story begins to unravel but Komako’s life of seclusion and servitude as a geisha offers them no freedom as a couple. Kawabata romanticizes the scenery of snowy Edo Japan while giving us fascinating insight into the life of a geisha during this period.

Translated by: Edward G. Seidensticker

3. The Office of Gardens and Ponds by Didier Decoin

When our protagonist’s fisherman husband dies at the beginning of the novel, Miyuki is left with no choice but to take over his responsibility of delivering their village’s local koi fish to the royal palace in Kyoto. Throughout the first half of the novel, we follow Miyuki on her journey through the beautiful, picturesque Japanese countryside — from the village of Shimae to the Imperial Palace during the Heian period. The existence of class separation between the upper class and the lower class rural people of the villages outside is made evident as Miyuki’s story progresses. She, being one of the lower class, is treated with snobby fascination by those in power and must overcome political barriers in order to return to her village. 

Translated from French by: Euan Cameron

4. Memoirs of a Polar Bear by Yoko Tawada

Memoirs of a Polar Bear is a whimsical story that traces the lives of three generations of polar bears: the mother bear, her daughter, Tosca, and Tosca’s son, Knut. Throughout the novel, we are taken through the stories of each bear, all of who are humanized as they are talented writers and performers. Each polar bear reflects on the human politics and economics of the time period they live in but rather than representing these issues, they symbolize what it means to be a human — readers are treated to beautiful tangents and long meandering passages of the curiosities of the world the bears live in. This abstract novel blends reality and surrealism seamlessly, creating a heartwarming story of family, migration, and love which leaves an impact.

Translated by: Susan Bernofsky

5. Before the Coffee Gets Cold by Toshikazu Kawaguchi

Who doesn’t love a good time travel story? Still in business since the Edo period, legend has it that this ancient Tokyo cafe houses one very special item: a magical chair. Our protagonist of the story, Fumiko, discovers that visitors can return to the past by sitting in that one chair, but there are rules: no one can leave the chair while in the past, changing the present is impossible, and most importantly, the time traveler must return to the present before the coffee gets cold. If the traveler is late, they’ll sit at a table in the cafe as a ghost for all eternity. What makes this such a charming story, however, are the regulars of the cafe and the people who work there; slowly, their stories come to the forefront and the cafe comes to life. Everyone eventually will find a reason to use the magic chair in the cafe.

Translated by: Geoffrey Trousselot

6. A Wild Sheep Chase by Haruki Murakami

Murakami’s first full-length novel and first foray into the supernatural, surreal themes that he became known for. Beginning in Tokyo and ending in the rugged northern countryside of Hokkaido, our narrator has been tasked with tracking down a mysterious sheep with a star-shaped pattern in its coat. What begins as a bizarre detective story expands into an exploration of the self and a search for one’s purpose in the world, however strange that search may be. The slow-burning but exhilarating pace of this novel makes this a wonderful winter read.

Translated by: Alfred Birnbaum

7. Sweet Bean Paste by Durian Sukegawa

Sweet Bean Paste will grip you from page one. If nothing else, it’ll make you seriously crave the authentic Japanese flavor of sweet bean paste. Sentaro is a failed writer who also has a criminal background. He now spends his days selling dorayaki from a small sweets shop. He reluctantly lets Tokue, a disfigured elderly woman who has been outcast from society, work in the shop (only in the back so the customers don’t see her). Once he truly gets to know her and their friendship develops, he is forced to confront his own prejudices after he recognizes that he “judged a book by its cover”. Unfortunately, that’s not the case for the visitors to the dorayaki shop who react badly when they find out that Tokue’s disfigurement is due to Hansen’s disease (once known as leprosy) she contracted as a child. It’s a bittersweet novel discussing prejudice, inner demons, and the power of a good friendship.

Translated by: Alison Watts

8. Goodbye Tsugumi by Banana Yoshimoto

A story of sisterly love between two cousins set in a rural seaside town in Japan. We are introduced to Maria, whose family runs an inn where her cousin Tsugumi lives. Tsugumi lives with an unspecified, potentially life-threatening illness meaning she can’t have a normal life, let alone go on any adventures. Maria sticks with Tsugumi through her dark times and mood swings and even when Maria goes to university, she can’t seem to let the emotionally aggressive Tsugumi go.

Translated by: Michael Emmerich

It’s that time of the year again! Last year’s Tokyo film festival was a huge success and 2019 is heading the same way with nine days of films from around the world being showcased from October 28 to November 5. As usual, the films will be shown at Toho Cinema Roppongi Hills, Ex Theater Roppongi, Tokyo Midtown Hibiya, and Tokyo International Forum.

This year we’ve decided to highlight the movies that have women front and center. They’ll make you laugh till you cry, question the meaning of life, and open your eyes to the world around you. There’s something for everyone here, with ladies being at the forefront of everything we cover.

We’ll also be focusing on movies from these four categories: Asian Future which features upcoming-and-coming Asian directors, Japan Now which contains a collection of modern Japanese films from the past year, Japanese Animation which presents the milestone works of animation exploring the progress of the industry, and Competition which highlights the entries that will be judged by a panel of internationally recognized filmmakers.

Get ready for some powerful films at the Tokyo International Film Festival that you won’t want to miss out on.

1. Aewol – Written on the Wind

This is the wholesome and comforting story of So Wol who loses her partner Soo Hyeon in a biking accident. Devastated, she decides to venture to Jeju, a beautiful island off the coast of Korea to recover. The sweeping shots of one of Korea’s most beloved natural escapes provide a treat for the eyes but it’s the everyday life on the island, and So Wol’s integration there, which makes this such a charming film. So Wol is finally able to start overcoming her grief when Soo Hyeon’s and her best friend, Cheol, visits with a letter written by her beloved Soo Hyeon in hand. A story of healing, love, and a fine example of true Korean cinema.

Category: Asian Future
Language: Korean with English and Japanese subtitles

2. The Oath

A tense tale of Razieh (played by Mahnaz Afshar), a woman dedicated to avenging her sister’s murder. Despite the fact that it is illegal for women to swear the oath in Iran, she travels with fifty members of her family on a grueling bus ride to swear an oath in front of the judges condemning her brother-in-law as the killer. Everyone on the bus is frustrated and the tense interactions, many taking place through the windows of the never-stopping bus, lead to a family mutiny. The clock is ticking and the pressure is on—if they don’t arrive at the courthouse by 9 a.m., the killer will go free. 

Category: Asian Future
Language: Persian with English and Japanese subtitles

3. The Secret Diary of a Mom to Be

Carmen loves her life just the way it is. She lives happily with her husband, she’s about to take on a job transfer to the US, and is absolutely adamant she never wants children. Her plans do a complete 180 when she suddenly finds herself three months pregnant. In her eyes, her life has begun to completely fall apart: her husband doesn’t want children, her social life and career prospects are immediately cut short, and her mother-in-law is moving in with her. A comedic commentary on life in Hong Kong for women, the pressures of motherhood, and how to survive when life doesn’t go according to plan.

Category: Asian Future
Language: Cantonese, English with English and Japanese subtitles

4. 37 Seconds 

A coming of age story based around Yuna, a young Japanese woman living in suburban Tokyo with cerebral palsy. Because of her disease, Yuna’s mother continues to smother and patronize her, failing to realize that her daughter wants to take control of her own life, even her sexuality. Yuna is a talented manga artist but often goes uncredited for the work she does alongside her partner Sayaka. Eventually, Yuna decides to take a stand and begins creating her own hentai series. The film is humorous, full of twists and turns, and doesn’t gloss over the realities of the struggles that disabled people face in society.

Category: Japan Now
Language: Japanese with English subtitles

5. Farewell Song

A love triangle story within the music industry, the successful female duo band, Haruleo, is on a fast uphill climb until they hire a handsome roadie name Shima who’s presence causes things to start quickly fall apart. The songs featured in the film are composed by Motohiro Hata and Aimyon but are played by the girls (played by Nana Komatsu and Mugi Kadowaki) themselves. Exploring the girls’ pasts, their romantic lives, and the role that music has played in each of their lives, this is an in-depth exploration of friendship, family, and love. The girls set off on a final tour before breaking up the band, but this road trip will force them to face their issues head-on to begin to heal the scars of the past.

Category: Japan Now
Language: Japanese with English subtitles

6. To the Ends of the Earth

J-pop icon Atsuko Maeda (played by Kiyoshi Kurosawa) proves that travel reporters definitely do not “have it easy” when she is sent to Uzbekistan for a TV show. We follow her around the country as she must face numerous mishaps, misogyny, and the cultural shocks that most people encounter when traveling. The film is immersive and attempts to bring together Japan and Uzbekistan as Kiyoshi sheds her preconceived notions and addresses her own fears and dreams. Stunning cinematography of the city and the dramatic landscape of Uzbekistan give this film a refreshing quality that will inspire you to travel.

Category: Japan Now
Language: Japanese, Uzbek with English subtitles

7. Weathering With You

Weathering With You was a box-office sensation making $15.22 million in the first three days of its Japanese release, surpassing even Shinkai’s previous smash-hit Your Name. In the story, we meet Hina who can conjure sunshine, which is particularly useful in a version of Tokyo where the torrential rain has become a problem that threatens the city’s future. She meets Hodaka, a boy who has been living on the streets of Tokyo and now works for a magazine investigating occult happenings. Together they decide to monetize Hina’s powers by responding to requests for good weather. However, the longer they carry on, the more Hina begins to weaken.

Category: Japanese Animation
Language: Japanese with English subtitles

8. Mananita

A disjointed and tense film about a woman who left her town to become a shooter in the military only to return home years later with a huge scar on her face after losing her job. She’s not coping well and spends most nights drunk in bars and is regarded with suspicion by those she used to know. After a mysterious phone call, she accepts a mission that will ultimately change and endanger her life. This film is very much a character study of the purpose in life and how people cope with it being taken away.

Category: Competition
Language: English with Japanese subtitles

9. Disco

An existential drama focused on Norway’s Christian evangelist community and 19-year old  Mirjam who lives within it. Mirjam is a champion disco dancer who’s pursuing her passion—through the beginning of the film we’re treated to incredible acrobatic dance moves which juxtapose with the intensity of the film. When Mirjam starts to fall into a depressive slump, instead of addressing her mental health issues, Mirjam begins to wonder if she’s being punished for not living a good enough life. Her family suggests that she start taking her religious life and connection to Jesus more seriously to help solve her problems. The film opens our eyes to the intense devotion of religious extremists as we watch Mirjam head down a different path.

Category: Competition
Language: English with Japanese subtitles

Featured photos have been selected from the official  2019 Tokyo International Film Festival website.

During hanami season, this attractive area transforms into a breathtaking landscape where people from all over Tokyo come to stroll along the famous Meguro River lined with soft pink blossoming cherry trees. Nakameguro is not only popular amongst Tokyo’s younger crowds, but appeals to the older generation with its inventive museums, charming cafes, and luxurious restaurants. One of the most picturesque yet lesser-known parts of Tokyo, at least to tourists, you won’t want to leave your camera at home when visiting Nakameguro.

History and Background

 

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Nakameguro (中目黒), translated literally as “inside of Meguro” is a residential district within the larger ward of Meguro. Meguro was formerly separated into two towns, Meguro Proper and Hibusama, but was merged into what is today’s Meguro ward back in 1932.

Just a 10-minute walk from Meguro station, you’ll find a Tenday Buddhist Temple called Ryusenji (瀧泉寺) more popularly known as Meguro-fudoson. Within the grounds is a small waterfall pond as well as the famous Meguro Fudo-Myoo (Wisdom King Acala) statue. This sentinel is actually where Meguro got its name: me meaning ‘eye’ and kuro (guro) meaning ‘black.’ It is one of five statues around Tokyo, all featuring different colored eyes, each one designated to protect Edo’s borders almost 400 years ago.

• Meguro-fudoson Ryusenji Temple: 3-20-26 Shimomeguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo

Things To Do

Tokyo Photographic Art Museum

 

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“A good photograph is one that communicates a fact, touches the heart and leaves the viewer a changed person for having seen it. It is, in a word, effective.” — Irving Penn #photography#museum#travel#japan#Tokyo#freedom#happy

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One of the world’s best photography museums, established in 1986 is waiting to be explored in Nakameguro. It’s a wonderful choice if you’d like to see the breadth of contemporary and classic photography that have amassed over the years. You’ll find both Japanese works and pieces from around the world across three galleries. If you’re interested in studying more about photography, then you’ll be impressed with the library which stocks Japanese and international books on the art of photography.

• Tokyo Photographic Art Museum: Yebisu Garden Palace, 1-13-3 Mita, Meguro-ku, Tokyo

Meguro Parasitological Museum

Parasitic specimens preserved for your viewing. Photo by Randiah Green.

Perhaps the last museum you’d expect to find here but this genuinely fascinating, perhaps a bit grotesque, museum dedicated to parasites is invaluable and perfect for anyone who has a passing interest in science. Inside, you’ll find a nine-meter tapeworm (which you can get a t-shirt of) as well as a host of a number of other critters housed in glass jars, over 5,000 books on parasites, and scientific journals detailing the museum’s various research and findings regarding these freeloaders over the years.

• Meguro Parasitological Museum: 4-1-1, Shimomeguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo

Where to Shop

Traveler’s Factory

 

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I’ll never get tired of finding quirky and themed stationery shops in Tokyo and here lies another gem. It’s a tiny shop that’s dedicated to travelers—more specifically the art of journaling popularized by travelers over the years. You’ll find the walls lined with journals of your dreams, vintage-stamps, satchels, fountain pens, and any other stationery item you could imagine. Though it can be a bit difficult to locate, it’s a delightful shop that’s more than worth the time it takes to be unearthed.

• Traveler’s Factory: 3-13-10, Kamimeguro, Meguro-ku

Meguro Dori 

 

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If you love interior design or are looking to add a bit of character to your Tokyo pad, then a stroll down Meguro Dori is ideal. Even if your crib is already perfected, the Euro-Japanese vibe of the street and the balanced combination of furniture shops and retro cafes is a winner (try Factory & Labo Kanno Coffee for the best drip coffee and a selection of sandwiches).

 

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If you’re specifically looking for retro Japanese items then make sure you catch Case Study Shop which is a treasure trove for kitsch lovers.

• Meguro Dori: Access from Gakugei-daigaku station or Meguro station
• Factory & Labo Kanno Coffee: 1-4-15 Chuocho, Meguro-ku, Tokyo
• Case Study Shop: 1-1-7 Takaban, Meguro-ku, Tokyo

Geographica

 

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This Tokyo secondhand shop specializes in all of the pleasant things in life: second-hand books in both English and Japanese, pre-loved toys and threads, antique furniture, and old postcards and photos to sift through. The whimsical layout entices you to get lost in there for days. You’ll also find the wonderful Italian cafe II Nuovo Levante upstairs with seating modeled after train cars.

Savvy insight: Anyone who speaks Japanese can take classes in furniture restoration with the owners of Geographica.

• Geographica: 1-25-20, Nakacho, Meguro-ku, Tokyo
• II Nuovo Levante: Geographica 2F, 1-25-20, Nakacho, Meguro-ku, Tokyo

Where to Eat and Drink

Starbucks Reserve Roastery

Two made-to-order espresso martinis from the Arriviamo Bar.

It was hard to miss the hype when the new Starbucks Reserve Roastery opened this year but because it really is as beautiful as everyone says, you don’t want to miss popping in next time you’re in Nakameguro. This four-story beauty is dedicated to excellent coffee, upscale architecture (designed in collaboration with Japan’s ultra-famous architect Kengo Kuma), and sakura—something you’ll notice when you spot the 2,100 handmade artisan copper sakura leaves inside. Be sure you try the espresso martini at the Arriviamo Bar which will ensure your return, sooner rather than later.

• Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo: 2-19-2 Aobadai, Meguro-ku, Tokyo

Higashi-Yama Tokyo

 

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Combining a beautiful minimalist space, gorgeous ceramics, and food that’s been elevated to an art form, this bento spot is exactly what you need to compliment a day spent exploring the neighborhood. The menu is focused on washoku (traditional Japanese food) and is cooked to perfection, such as the matcha blancmange and the seasonal vegetable stew. It’s a great space for groups or solo-eaters. Because it’s hard not to everything on the menu, we recommend the insanely delicious wagyu beef cutlet, cooked to perfection by an expert chef. And if you’ve got room for dessert then don’t miss out on the green tea panna cotta; originally an Italian dessert made from sweetened and thickened cream but here flavored with matcha to create a Japanese taste like no other.

• Higashi-Yama Tokyo: 1-21-25 Higashiyama, Meguro-ku, Tokyo

Yakitori Akira

A wonderful and extremely popular izakaya in Nakameguro that’s the perfect place for a drink and snack after a day exploring the area. You may have to wait for a seat but once you see the incredible rustic interior, you’ll know it was worth the wait. And if that doesn’t convince you then wait until the smell of grilled meat hits you. Settle in for some karaage (fried chicken) and umeshu (plum wine) in the neighborhood and relax.

• Yakitori Akira: 1-10-23 Nakameguro, Meguro-ku

Chum Apartment

 

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Another gorgeous cafe near Nakameguro housed in a once run-down mansion and renovated by Japanese artist Chiharu Yoshikawa, Chum Apartment is a traveler’s dream. From the Morrocan color scheme to the European ironwork, low lighting, and chandeliers, it’s the perfect balance of mixed styles. If you’ve been searching for another Instagrammable cafe, look no further—this is it. They also do a great lunch set which includes a coffee or tea. You’ll also find Mucha, a shop selling handmade ceramics upstairs which is well-worth popping into.

• Chum Apartment: 2-23-3, Shimomeguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo

Events

Catch breathtaking hanami views along the Meguro River

The incredible view of the sakura blossoms along the Meguro River.

Nakameguro is one of the most festive spots in Tokyo during the hanami season, and walking along the river during the peak of spring is one of the most pleasant places to wander on foot in the city. Each side of the river is lined with cherry trees covered in sakura that are in full bloom. The petals scatter gently on the water, you can even take canal rides down the river during the season. At night the river and trees are lit up with pink lanterns and you’ll find food stands selling everything from classic yakitori to seasonal sakura-flavored bubbly. Feel free to wander down the river at any time of the year—it’s always scenic and never lets you down.

Getting There

A crowd of people arriving at Nakameguro Station via the Toyoko and Hibiya metro lines.

You can take the JR Yamanote, Toei Mita, Tokyo Meguro, and Metro Namboku to Meguro station. Alternatively, take the metro Hibiya and Tokyo Tokyoko lines to Nakameguro station.

Visions of summer holidays often include a beach, a book, and a cocktail, but even if your summer vacation is still a long way ahead, there’s always room for a great Japanese read or two. Whether you want inspiration for new things to do in Tokyo, or want to be captivated by a romance or fantasy tale, there’s something for everyone on this list of Japanese summer reads.

1. The Bells of Old Tokyo by Anna Sherman

If you love Japanese culture and are itching to discover new things, then this is the book for you! Good travel writing is often hard to come by—it’s a delicate balance of bringing a destination to life while also informing of its noteworthy aspects, but Anna Sherman does so flawlessly in The Bells of Tokyo. Sherman begins her personal tale searching for the bells of Edo and on the way, she develops new friendships with local Japanese people, such as the cafe owner who considers coffee as an art-form. It’s a vibrant yet calm account of Tokyo and its secrets and provides to us a readable approach to what could be considered a dry topic.

2. Automatic Eve by Rokuro Inui 

Automatic Eve is an explosive book that’s perfect if you like science-fiction mixed with a touch of Edo Japan. A political fantasy in the same realm as Game of Thrones, this book offers a unique perspective of a world where the line of succession is purely female. This world is thrown into upheaval when the creation of a self-aware automaton called Eve leads to an unraveling of the city’s hidden secrets. Japan has a long history of creating automatons, clockwork dolls, and puppets that were all years ahead of the rest of the world, and Inui has taken that to create an alternate-reality, feminist sci-fi story that can be described as nothing short of genius. This is a book you’ll struggle not to devour in just one sitting.

Book translated by Matt Tryvaud

3. The Ten Loves of Nishino by Hiromi Kawakami 

This endearing collection of short stories are all tethered together by a single man: Nishino. An enigmatic man, Nishino floats through the lives of ten independent women; each of them loving him in her own way. Through these stories, we get ten different perspectives into how love behaves and what love, relationships, and men mean to different women. We also get a fun, surreal, and at times unsettling, life story—one that’s been cut up, rearranged, inverted, and confused. All the way through the book, Nishino is as unpredictable as love itself often is. Here is an engrossing and engaging exploration of love in all of its forms.

Book translated by Allison Markin Powell 

4. The Little House by Kyoko Nakajima

This charming slow burner, set in the early years of the Shōwa era (1926–89), takes place on the outskirts of Tokyo in a European-style house with a red, triangular roof. A nostalgic and gentle memoir of a servant, comparable to Kazuo Ishiguro’s The Remains of the Day, we follow the life of the main character, Taki. Having served a middle-class family for most of her life, she introduces us to an average day in a country that’s slowly descending into war. It’s vivid, incredibly well translated, and paints a picture of this time period better than I’ve ever seen. The story takes a surprising twist with an additional chapter at the end of the journal, which turns the novel on its head.

Book translated by Ginny Tapley Takemori

5. The Memory Police by Yoko Ogawa

This novel needs no introduction for fans of Yoko Ogawa—she is a master of suspense, twists, and in-depth characters. In her new Orwellian novel, a young writer lives on an island where things (or people) that have disappeared no longer exist in the minds of those who live there. She discovers that her editor is going to be taken by the Memory Police, a group that exists to erase everything from a person, an animal or even a book. In this surreal world, once something is forgotten, it’s gone for good. Miraculously, the writer retains her memory and embarks on a journey to rescue her editor while pretending that she is just like everyone else. It’s provocative, captivating, and stays with you long after you’ve finished reading.

Book translated by Stephen Snyder

6. The Night is Short, Walk On Girl by Tomihiko Morimi

Widely known for the award-winning animated film with the same title, The Night is Short, Walk on Girl makes it’s printed debut (and with a gorgeous cover too!) this summer. For anyone who’s seen the film, the novel won’t surprise you, but it is incredibly charming and features the original illustrations by Yusuke Nakamura, who was also the character designer for the film. The plot revolves around a college student who attracts the attention of various men and a supernatural being while walking outside one night. One man has been nursing a crush on her—and has chosen this particular night to let her know.

Book translated by Emily Balistrieri

A translator of Japanese literature into English, Louise Heal Kawai originally comes from Manchester in the north of the UK, has lived in Texas and Nagoya, and now calls Yokohama home.

Her translation of Seventeen by Hideo Yokoyama was a finalist in the 2018 Believer Book Awards and longlisted for the 2019 Best Translated Book Award. Her next translation, the classic Japanese mystery The Honjin Murders by Seishi Yokomizo (featuring Detective Kindaichi) will be released in December 2019.

Savvy Tokyo caught up with Louise to find out more about her journey from teaching English and speaking zero Japanese to meeting famous authors and being nominated for translation awards.

What initially brought you to Japan?

I live in Yokohama, but I’ve only been in the Kanto area for four years. Before that, I spent around 20 years in Nagoya. I first came to Japan to teach English at a university in Nagoya, but after getting married I have followed my husband’s job transfers to Texas — and now to Yokohama.

What attracted you to translation as a career?

I’ve loved translating ever since secondary school in the UK (what would be a middle school in the US) where I studied French, German, and also Latin. Translating pieces into English was my absolute favorite part of the class, and by the time I was in university, I loved to read French and German literature.

However, career-wise, I started off as a teacher of English as a foreign language. It wasn’t until I decided to do an M.A. in Japanese Studies  — and thoroughly enjoyed the translation and literature components of the course — that I began to feel that love of translation again.

A couple of years later I had to give up my teaching job when I moved to Texas with my family and translating was a perfect career that I could do from home with a small baby. I applied for some jobs, took a test, and my literature translation career was launched in, of all unlikely places, Fort Worth, Texas.

[…]translating was a perfect career that I could do from home with a small baby.

What does a day in the life of a translator look like?

I’m afraid this is not exactly glamorous. Once the other family members have left for work and school, the apartment becomes my office. I’ll normally work at my desk, but sometimes when I want a change of scenery I’ll move to the dining table where I have a view over the sea. When it’s cold I have been known to work tucked up in bed!

When I have a novel to translate I have worked out ahead of time how many Japanese characters I need to translate per day, and so I start with that goal in mind. I’ll try to work with a break for lunch or ideally to go and get some exercise (hours a day sitting at a desk is not good for the health). I normally have to stop to get dinner for the family, then if I’m lucky I’ll get a few more hours of work done in the evening. Weekends are usually not off for me, especially before deadlines, so sometimes it’s hard to balance work and recreation.

Louise Heal Kawai.

Do you have a close relationship with the writers you translate for?

That’s a very interesting question. On the whole, the answer is no. At the beginning of my career, I lived in Texas and then later in Nagoya. The only way to communicate with authors was through email. And often Japanese publishers are protective of their authors’ privacy, so many times these emails had to go through them. I would really like to have had closer relationships than I was able to.

That said, Shoko Tendo, author of Yakuza Moon, was happy to meet with me when I was visiting Tokyo. That was a wonderful experience as she is quite an amazing woman who has had a fascinating life. I have also met Mieko Kawakami, author of Ms. Ice Sandwich, who worked with me on the translation of another of her pieces. I had dinner with Soji Shimada recently after the publication of Murder in the Crooked House. He’s a charming man.

Meeting authors this way and participating in literary events has become much more possible since I moved to the Kanto area, so things have changed a lot for me in the last four years.

I should also mention that three of the authors I’ve translated are already deceased, so absolutely no chance of getting to know them, or of asking questions. I’m currently working on The Honjin Murders by Seishi Yokomizo and have so many things I’d have loved to ask him, but he passed away in 1981 so I will have to work it out for myself.

What are you most proud of?

My adorable, sweet-natured son. But I’m sure you meant career-wise! It’s hard to choose one of my translations over another. Seventeen by Hideo Yokoyama was listed for two literary prizes recently, so that was a great source of pride for me, but I love other things I’ve translated just as much. I think I would have to say the fact that I came to Japan 25 years ago with no Japanese ability whatsoever and through studying, and a lot of learning from mistakes, I have reached the point where I can translate Japanese literature as a career.

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What do you wish people knew about translation as a career?

First of all, how rewarding it is creatively. The satisfaction of knowing that you were responsible for bringing a work of fiction to the English-speaking world. There’s nothing quite like holding a book in your hand that has your name on it.

Sadly though, literary translation doesn’t pay well. I don’t think there are many (any?) people who make a living solely off translating literature (please correct me in the comments if I’m wrong!). Business translation/interpreting rates are much higher, and there are many people who make a good living as a translator in the commercial field, but most literary translators are doing other kinds of work as well. Many are full-time university professors or commercial translators who do literature part-time because they love it.

Although it may be obvious, I feel I should mention that direct translation is not going to work in literary translation. No matter how good your Japanese is, capturing the spirit and intention of the words is more important than a literal translation. The human touch is essential. Machine translation such as Google Translate is very, VERY far from replacing humans in this field.

Machine translation such as Google Translate is very, VERY far from replacing humans in this field.

What was your biggest culture shock when you originally moved to Japan?

It’s very hard to remember the culture shock now as it was so long ago, but I cringe sometimes to think how much I must have offended everyone at the beginning!

I remember I had a homestay and never put my futon away in the morning because it didn’t occur to me that it wasn’t kept permanently on the floor, I refused to take a bath at night, and I went sleeveless and bare-legged in summer. I’m glad the pressure on women to wear stockings year-round is no longer a thing. Or maybe I just got older and don’t care so much anymore what people think!

But absolutely the most difficult thing to get used to was suddenly becoming illiterate. Not being able to read any signs when walking down the street, menus in restaurants or understand the contents of meetings was a great impetus to start studying Japanese seriously.

Not being able to read any signs when walking down the street, menus in restaurants or understand the contents of meetings was a great impetus to start studying Japanese seriously.

Do you ever miss the UK?

Yes, although it has been a long time since I’ve lived in the UK, I do miss the scenery of the countryside – the beautiful cities, the cool summer weather. I miss English language theatre and film, too; the bookshops full of English language novels or being able to walk into a library and it be full of English language fiction and non-fiction that I can borrow.

Oh and I dream of real scones with clotted cream and raspberry jam! (Laughs) On reflection, it seems that I miss a lot, but there is also much that I love about Japan.

If you could recommend one piece of Japanese literature for people to read, what would it be?

Ah, so hard to decide on one. One of my favorites is a novel that somehow manages to be charming and at the same time shed light on a dark aspect of Japan’s history that is not often talked about. It’s called Sweet Bean Paste by Durian Sukegawa, translated by Alison Watts, and I would recommend anyone familiar with or interested in Japan to read it.

Translator Jobs in Japan

If you are looking for a place to start out as a translator or already have some translating work under your belt, have a look at these translator job postings in Japan.

Savvy Spotlight is a monthly feature introducing foreign and Japanese women at the frontline of what’s successful, contributing, cool, unique and interesting in the city. If you have anyone in mind you would like us to interview, leave us a comment below with your recommendations!